http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=spe-4667

I was wandering if anyone has tried or heard about these, I cannot seem to find any reviews or opinions about them so I thought I would ask here. Any opinions or impressions?

Should work, IF you really like spinning safety wire. The only real problem I see is that if you get the wire real tight, it's going to wear thru your headers. Too loose, and it won't work. I've seen safety wire cut thru the head of an aircraft grade Inconel bolt. And Inconel is some really tough stuff.

After I r & r headers. I always go back after every start and stop and tighten the bolts a little. I do that for about a week, then a couple times a week, then whenever I think of it. Not had a header gasket problem in a long time.

There are several options for header bolts- there's a split-lock thing- the bolt is split and has a wedge built into it,- studs and nuts, - bolts that have a groove in the head with an "ear" that goes on with a snap ring, and I'm sure there are a couple others too..

Yea I have looked into other types of bolts, Stage 8, Split lock, and ARP anyway. I think I kind of lean towards ARP right now for good quality and price. I just can not find much info about these Spectre bolts other than the spew about how wonderful they are from the people trying to sell them.

Just make sure the header bolts are long enough. My Hooker flange is thick and I went with 1" allen socket head bolts made out of SS. Any good fastener shop will have them.

That's the same advice I got from CorvetteKid - I'll be visiting the local Fastenal store shortly.

Most people I run across seem to think that the header bolts back off. They don't. The gasket shrinks with heat cycles. Of course the bolt could vibrate loose if the gasket shrinks enough that the bolt loses all of its torque. You guys may already know this, but if you didn't then I wanted to make sure you did. Use a good quality gasket, retighten the bolts after the first few heat cycles, then check them after about 2 dozen heat cycles, then every oil change. You will find after about the 2nd oil change that they aren't budging when you try to tighten them. That is the method I use.

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How thick does the flange have to be before going to the 1" bolts? 3/4" is stock right?

Unless you're using the cheap (non Elite) Hedmans with their 1/4" flanges, you want a 1" long header bolt, especially with aluminum heads. Hookers have a 5/16" flange and every other header I know of for C4s uses a 3/8" flange.
I would not want to screw with wire on header bolts, it's completely unnecessary. I use stainless 1" bolts with a 5/16" allen head and they work fine. As mentioned above, recheck after some heat cycling and you'll be good to go. I also recommend either copper or aluminum gaskets. I use Mr. Gasket copper gaskets and have reused them numerous times with no problems. Percy's Dead Seal aluminum gaskets are said to be an excellent product too, but I've never tried them. I'm sure they are though, from reading many positive reports on them.

After measuring it looks like there is almost an inch of thread just in the heads then I have ¼ inch thick flange in the headers to 1 inch here I come. I liked the idea of these as much for the Allen head with external flats as much as for the wire, sounds like the wire is a waist of time though. I will probably just go with stainless socket head Allen bolts but would still like the flats on the outside for a backup system. By the way Notorious thanks for the gasket advice I was about to ask about them.