|
|
|
|
|
Register To Post |
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
 
|
Quote:
My 2800 stall is a loose 2800. When I stand it up on the brakes the car does start pushing ahead at about 2600 rpms. But, when I was spraying with the old combo (CC503 cam, reworked 113's, HSR intake, 175 shot), it would shift at 6200, then only drop to 5100 rpms. The entire pass it was between 5100 and 6200 rpms. When I didn't spray the rpms would drop to about 4400 after the shifts. Must be the more power put to it, the higher it stalls. I'm thinking with the new combo I'll run it to about 6300 rpms and I'll bet it only drops to about 5300 after the shifts. My peak hp should be at about 5800. With my converter never letting the rpms drop below about 5300, do you really think a higher stall would help my times? I was thinking since it is such a loose 2800 stall it wasn't hurting much, and any more of a punch on the launch might toast the D36 instantly. What do you think of it all? Do you still think I should be considering a converter swap now? If so maybe I'll start looking into it. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 18:32
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
 Transfer
|
 
|
||
| BeachBum | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Master Guru
 
|
Quote:
In my opinion, naturally aspirated, I definitely think a looser torque converter will help you significantly. Honestly, the more converter you give it, the faster you'll go up to a point. On your set-up, without knowing more, I would say that would be around 4400 rpm converter. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying loosen it up that far, that would be a bit sloppy on the street, but your 60's would go down, bearing in mind, 80%+ of your et gained or loss for a given HP value will be earned in the first 60 ft. I think a 3400-3600 rpm converter would really wake it up off the line.... your 383 HSR set-up will actually be capable of 1.4x 60's if you optimized the converter, but with a 3400-3600, you should be deep 1.5's on motor. You may be aware of Vic89 on the CF.... he has a 350-ported heads-MR-ZZ9 combination that used to be owned by Wheelsup on the east coast..... when Wheels-up had that motor in his C4, he broke into the high 10's with a 4000+ converter in it and a little weight loss, I knew Wheelsup pretty good back then and drilled him on the set-up... it was the real deal. He sold the motor to Vic, who's raceweight was only another 100 or so pounds.... Vic put in I think a 2800 rpm converter and the motor couldn't get out of its own way..... I think he was stuck in the 12's..... he loosened up the converter to approxmiately 4000 rpm, immediately the motor runs mid 11's in summer air and has gone a best of 11.3x in good air. My point to the above, the loose converter is the secret to Vic running mid to low 11's on a stock 350 shortblock, mild hyd roller cam, ported heads....your HSR, albeit it makes a little bit more torque than the MR Vic used below the peak, the torque curve is still pretty close to an MR.....and thus have a similar effect to converter flash rpm. The end result, if I was you, I'd get your new motor completely dialed in before even thinking about the Nitrous..... a 383 HSR in a C4, with a 3400-3600 rpm converter should be good for very bottom 11's on motor alone and even maybe high 10's in good air..... throw a 175 shot at it after that, and you're not going to be thinking about mid 10's at 128 mph, and instead high 9's, or at least low 10's at well over 130 mph. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 19:27
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| BeachBum | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Master Guru
|
Oh, and on if your Dana 36 can handle the above...... doubtful is my reply. But you never know on those things, some guys they explode on the first trip to the track, others they last for years of hard racing.... you never know I guess.
|
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 19:33
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
You honestly think mid or possibly low 11's would be possible with my new engine combo, not revving past 6300 rpms? Wow, I'd die if I ran a mid or low 11 on motor, I was just hoping to get an 11.9 on motor. I really thought 10.5 and 128 mph would be a stretch on a 200 shot, thinking that not revving past 6300 would make it hard to make the hp to do that. But I'm not a drag racer, I'm a guy who scrounged up every penny he could just to buy a corvette and now can't believe that it ran a 11.43 and may make 10's! Might start looking into loosening up the converter then. I don't plan on spraying till after it shifts to 2nd gear to help the rear survive a little longer. Original plan was to swap converters when I get the solid rear in a couple of years, but I didn't realize it would make that much of a difference going up from a 2800 to a 3600.
If you want to know my entire combo, it is a 383 made from a stock 400 crank and rods, machined to fit in a early 80's 350 2pc rear seal block. Stock 400 rods is why I'm limiting to 6300 rpms. Has Speed Pro forged pistons, Leghumper (LOL) 195 eliminator heads, 11.0:1 SCR, .035 quench, 8.9:1 dynamic CR, 230/236 flat tappet hydraulic cam on a 110 LSA (XE274H, I think), 1.6 rockers, Crane Hi-6CD ignition with timing retard box for nitrous use, smallcap MSD dist. and remote coil, HSR intake with custom plenum, hooker 2151's with true duals and LT1 catback, Innovate LC1 wideband, 275 Nitto 555R drag radials, 3.07 beer can rear, and you know the trans/converter. Zex nitrous wet nitrous kit with all the bells and whistles. I spray on the street all the time. My goal all along was to have a mild mannered street car that runs bad ass at the track or airport flashlight drags. I try to get all used/inexpensive parts that compliment each other to run good rather than huge expensive parts that kill my wallet and my street manners. I truly appreciate your opinions/suggestions here as I know you have much experience here. I just assumed that since the 2800 converter was keeping my rpms between about 5200 and 6300 that it wouldn't be worth much to go up in stall speed. In your opinion, what would my revs drop down to after shift with a 3600 stall? I know it is a guess but I'm sure your guess would be better than mine! |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 20:16
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| PeteK | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Moderator
 
|
For a small fee, the people that manufactured your converter could do a stator swap, and you will be all set. $150 is a typical price for this service.
|
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 20:39
|
|||
|
_________________
"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Problem is, I bought the converter used, and I bought it from a guy in Canada (Mike, MaknUShivr was his CF forum name). Great converter but I don't know who to send it back to in order to have that done.
Hey Pete, If I were to end up buying a 700R4 that is not set up for a 'vette, what (roughly) would it cost me for you to cut down the tailshaft and sell me and install a rebuilt C4 vette tailhousing? Is that something that you could do in a day, as in I drive the trans to you for you to do the work and take it home with me same day? If I go this route I don't want to use my stock trans tailhousing, I'd like to leave it on my stock trans. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 20:45
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| BeachBum | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Master Guru
|
Quote:
Yes, I think mid to low 11's are very possible with that 383 set-up with the right converter. However, I am not a big fan of your chosen hyd flat tappet technology choice.... that'll probably hurt you a tenth or two as compared to a like hyd roller. I did a test years ago on the change... I improved 2 tenths with the move to hyd roller with less duration, but more lift, which at that time was probably a solid 20-30 hp with my 350. But, even so, deep 11's will be easy. Keeping your rpm's up is a good thing if accelerating.... I won't say how much it will effect your slap-back rpm, every set-up is a bit different, but it won't be too drastic is my guess. On your gearing, its not as bad as you think..... in reality, with your most important gear for happy timeslips, which is 1st gear, a 3.07 rear gear with a 700R4 is exactly equalivent as a th350 with a 3.73 gear if you do the math..... (3.06 x 3.07 = 9.39 and 2.52 x 3.73 = 9.39) Whats bad is a 2.59.... I don't know what GM was thinking on that one. As a note, with a 383 Superram motor, I did a very detailed before & after test years ago from 3.07 to 3.45.... I had zero et improvement on that investment, just wasted my money. But, it was a little funner to drive on the street, 2nd gear was much more usable around town. However, your HSR curve would probably see a small et improvement with more gear, but not sure. What we concluded on that, is that if you already have a good converter, gearing improvements on torque laden street motors, unless very poor ratio's to begin with(ie 2.59), do not really help you.....this was a well publicized test on the CF years ago...... but fast forward to 2008, and all of the tests the old timers did years ago seems to be forgotten or lost, cuz many do not believe this and continue to upgrade their gears and report back how fast they are now, albeit, they don't race, and instead base their conclusion on how it feels on the street. After I had done my 3.45 gears, it did feel faster on the street.... but the timeslip straightened me up and told otherwise. Back on your converter, I do not recommend you go out and loosen up your converter to 3600 rpm just based upon my opinion..... ask around, get some feedback as to the driveability of a looser converter. I think in late model forums, the general consensus is that as you get over 3000 rpm, the drivebility goes south pretty fast.... I won't argue with that, but will only say, each driver has their own idea of daily driver material. Whats livable for me, may not be for you..... so do your homework and make sure you'll still have an enjoyable driving experience before you do it..... but do rest assured, you'll go faster if you do loosen it up. btw, Azzoto's stall is approxmiately 5500 rpm..... not sure if he gave you a ride in it or not..... thats an A-typical dragstrip race converter. But, I know he does drive it on the street and reports back its fine on the street..... although I have a feeling many wouldn't share his thoughts on that. Well, thats my opinion anyway.... |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 20:56
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| PeteK | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Moderator
|
Quote:
$125 plus a case of Corona will cover it. If you need speedo gears and the retaining clip, that would add $25, assuming I had them in stock. What rear gear ratio are you currently running? Easily done in a day too. More like 3 hours, once you got here. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 20:57
|
|||
|
_________________
"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Pete, you drink Corona too? Cool. That is my summer beer, I drink Sam Adams Winter Lager this time of year. I would definitely pay that and buy a case or 2 of Corona and a lime for that work. But.....that is my second choice.
My first choice is for you to build me a trans. I love your idea above of you rebuilding the internals of your '89 internals from the trans with a bad case, then swapping them into my case and re-use my valvebody and governor and what not. Let me know if you can make that happen and what I will owe you for it all. As long as I can have the tranny by late January or early February at the latest that idea is perfect. I lose my garage space early March and I want to make sure the engine and trans is complete and even tested and tuned a little before then. I'd like to put the new trans in, then bolt in the new shortblock, then assemble the heads and all after the shortblock is in the car. Just the way I like to do it. I am running the 3.07 rear gear. My car came with 2.59's, I bought a used 3.07 centersection and swapped it in. Broke the VSS when removing it so I bought a new VSS, flipped it over, and installed it with the correct new speedo driven gear to make my speedometer right with the 3.07's. Also, my governor is new so you can eliminate that governor gear from your parts list. I'm sure it isn't any money but no sense in you buying one for me. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 21:51
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Quote:
The only reason I'm running that flat tappet cam is because it is the same duration I wanted for a 383, fits my bottom end and intake's powerband pretty well, and most importantly, it came with the shortblock when I bought it. It costs alot to go over to a retro roller setup, and my bottom end won't allow any more rpms than the flat tappet will give me so the only benefit will be friction, ramp rates, and lift. And my lift isn't bad on the flat tappet. I agree I'm giving up 20 or so hp. Thing is, I know this 383 is only a 3 year engine for me, I want to either rebuild the stock roller block to a 383 that uses lightweight components and spins to 7000, or put in a 434. Giving the limitations of my current 383, my future plans, and the fact that this cam was already installed and came free with the shortblock, I decided to keep it. Quote:
Thanks for all this info. I am not sure yet, but I truly appreciate your opinions and advice. I'd bet money that my 2800 stall would be the same on the street as a vig or other top of the line 3200. It is loose, IMO. I haven't decided anything for sure yet but if Pete builds me a trans or if I find a used trans I think I'll stay with my converter for now, and hold off on upping the stall speed till I upgrade to a solid rear. I just don't want to have myself spent down too far then blow the rear. Could happen anyway, but much more likely to happen the higher I raise the stall speed. You mentioned dialing my setup in on motor before spraying. Definitely. I have a place near home that I can run it out on the street to get the tune and afr dialed in. The wideband 02 gauge is the cat's ass. Once it is dialed in, I'll start with a 100 shot and not spray till after it shifts to 2nd gear. I'll use an extra large fuel jet, then trim it back till I get the afr where I want it. Then I'll do the same with a 150 shot, then a 175, then finally a 200 shot. I have a timing retard box so my tune will be set up for N/A and I'll pull 2 degrees of timing per 50 shot. I always stay conservative on timing and afr and if I want more power I'll run a bigger shot of nitrous instead of running on the ragged edge. I might try spraying it part way through 1st gear at the track but not on the street. I won't launch with the spray until I have the solid rear. That is my plan anyway, time will tell! |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 22:08
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| PeteK | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Moderator
|
Quote:
If you add 75 ft lbs or so to your current converter, it may stall 200-300 rpm higher. Almost self adjusting. The more torque you feed them, the more multiplied torque is created. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 22:12
|
|||
|
_________________
"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Quote:
Kind of what I was hoping for. Hey Pete, that '89 that you might remanufacture the guts of and install in my case....was it a 'vette '89 trans originally? If not, are there other parts we should swap too? The only thing I recognized from your parts list was the governor gear and the filter, the other parts could be listed in the chinese language for all I know! I did sucessfully install the B+M shift improver kit myself but that is only because I followed the directions with intimate detail. Didn't mean that I knew what I was doing. I've learned more about transmissions and converters from you and Beach in the last 2 days than I've learned in my 33 years of existence here on the 3rd rock. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 23:14
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| PeteK | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Moderator
|
The pump , case, governor tail shaft, tail housing and valvebody contain vette specific parts. We would re-use the pressure valve pieces, and boost valves of the pump.
All proper vette parts will return to your vette case. To answer the question about the trans core here, it was a pick up truck. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 23:21
|
|||
|
_________________
"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Quote:
Cool. Thanks for answering all my questions. I never realized the vette had any specific parts other than the tailhousing and governor until earlier in this thread. Wifey and I are heading up to a friend's house to get plastered for the new year. She is the DD so I'm going to drink my fill tonight. Winter Lager, Champagne, Crown Royal and Sprite are the 3 drinks on the menu tonight. Catch you guys tomorrow. Thanks again, and Happy New Year! PS: Love the new avatar, Pete. |
||
Posted on: 2008/12/31 23:33
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| BeachBum | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Master Guru
|
The Avatar is freakn great !!
Isn't it Jeffvette or somebody that has one that rivals that ? Maybe I'll find one and join the near naked avatar club :toothy5: |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/1 0:39
|
|||
|
_________________
863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| vetteoz | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
 |
Quote:
So what is the overall effect of a say 3500-4000 convertor when driving on the street? You lose fuel economy but what are the "driveability " issues. I was considering swapping out my 3.07's but keep coming back to your's and Corky old posts on CF re lack of difference with gear change. Have 3K now with 383 HSR and a stall swap is cheaper than gear swap especially if it will give better results at the track which is the only thing I am interested in at present Plus it will allow me to run my GM 847 cam v the ZZ409 I have at present |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/1 13:33
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| BeachBum | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Master Guru
|
Quote:
My comment to Dan, was I just didn't want him loosening up his converter based "soley" on my recommendation. There are other factors including driveability that I hadn't talked about and he needs to understand them before he makes a final decision. As with most things in life, its a give and take.... make your car faster, but lose a little daily driveability manners is a common one. :angry1: A 3500-4000 is loose on accelerating.... best way to describe is listen to it. Go to the dragstrip and listen to some of the racecars as they pull up in the lanes. Yours wouldn't be that bad considering most of those are running 4500+ converters.... but you get a understanding of the "mushiness" of your pedal as you pull from a stop. This of course is not good for gas mileage.... it'll knock a few off. That slippage builds heat, thus you want to run a good transmission cooler "always" when running an aftermarket converter. This slippage is more prevelant when cruising at highway speeds as well, with a mild un-locked converter, you might cruise at 70 mph at 2500 rpm, whereas a high stall un-locked converter might be slipping to 2800 rpm at that same 70 mph speed. Easy way to solve this is run a lock-up converter, which adds a little weight and reportdly can hurt et on the dragstrip if not locked, albeit, I have never seen it, I believe it. A lock-up will do just that, lock-up the converter and all of the sudden you drop to 2200 rpm at that same 70 mph. (As a note, I personally never lock-up the converter at wot... its too hard on most, but some run a multi-clutch converter that will allow it, this is reportdly worth a tenth or so if they do and a 1-2 of mph improvement) If you do loosen up your converter substantially, you want to make sure whoever is doing it knows what they are doing. Simply put, typically when you loosen up the converter, you're also loosing efficiency on the top, meaning you could lose mph on the top through wot slippage. A racer in a high 9 second car recently reported a 2 mph trap difference between the same rated stall converters from different manufacturers. Just saying.... there can be a difference from manufacturer to manufacturer, so buyer beware. You also want to have confidence in the manufacturer hitting the stall you're going after.... a "lot" of people will buy a 3600 rpm converter, that doesn't actually stall to 3600 rpm.... the manufacturer missed. (Angle of the stator) But, typically if you give good accurate information on your racecar as to the cam/heads/gearing, etc... to an experienced manufacturer they'll come close. You might want to pose your question to some of the guys on lstech.com or ls1.com..... there are a lot more of those guys running 3500+ rpm converters and can perhaps verbalize it well for you, or one might even be local to you and offer a test drive. Corky's set-up is pretty neat, a 7000+ rpm solid rollerd 355, fairly tame cam too..... yet, he runs in the 10's with a 3.07 gear and a loose converter. Thats pretty stout ! |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/1 16:13
|
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Hey Pete, I'm still shopping around in case you won't be able to work out building up my trans. Below is a link. I emailed the seller and asked him some questions. I emailed him your parts list from this thread (without the prices) and asked him if he uses similar parts and includes everything on your list. Also asked what he would knock off for me not needing a converter. Does his parts list look decent? Do you know this guy? He does have 100% positive feedback which is always a good thing.
Don't worry, this isn't about me price shopping. I'd like for you to build me a trans, but if your schedule and my timeframe won't work out I want to have other options ready. Thanks again for all your help! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... e=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/2 21:17
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| PeteK | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Moderator
|
The ad looks good. He is offering the z-pack as a 100 dollar upgrade, and it is required for your power level (in my opinion)
He is also requiring your core back because it is a vette. Price is quite cheap, especially considering he is adding a $100 4th gear only servo. FWIW, I never heard of him. That is not good or bad, as I am confident he has not heard of me either  |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/2 21:28
|
|||
|
_________________
"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Quote:
Cool! I'll let you know what he says about his parts list in comparison to your parts list. I thought the price seemed really cheap too. There are cheaper ones listed as "performance builds" but they never list their parts. This guy listed some, I'd like to see the whole list. I'll let you know what his reply is. |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/2 21:54
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
Hey Pete, below is the reply I got back:
Hello Dan, I have looked at the specs you sent. Our tranny will meet or exceed them. We do a performance shift kit of our own. With it a long with the .500 boost valve the shifts would be nice. We also can block the accumulators if you want. That will make them more aggressive. As for the converter the higher the stall will take from how aggressive they are. Also the converter you have can be used if it is clean, I ask that you keep in mind that if the converter let go then we can't warranty it. I know that stall converters cost a lot, so I can't blame you for wanting to use it. The only problem is that if it is comtaimadated any it will show up. But that will be your call on the converter. I have real vette cores with the right tail houseings on hand. I don't have a lot of the macanical speedo set ups. I do have plenty of the electronic ones if yours is electronic. If you don't have a electronic speedo, all you will need to do is use the one you have now. Other then that it will be a direct replacement. As for the shipping We pay all shipping for the rebuild and the return. We send a prepaid lable to cover the return. I did not take time to look up your zip code, but a slong as it is in the lower 48 states it won't matter. I can price the trans w/o a converter and add the z-pack for $1,125.00. I tryed to cover all of your concerns, knowing me I might have over looked some. If so please email me back with them. Let me know if we can start one for you, and thanks What do you think?? |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/3 19:05
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| Matatk | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Webmaster
 
|
Wow, that seems like a pretty good price to me. Keep us posted.
Matthew |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/3 19:20
|
|||
|
_________________
2002 EBM convertible, Magnusson supercharger, cam, headers, etc. 1989 Corvette...RIP |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| BeachBum | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Master Guru
|
Hey Dan, Looks good ! Ask them what price for qty 2 on those ? (But I do not have a core), and I do not need the torque converter either. Maybe if we both jump on them, there is a better deal to be had, I dunno.
Pete, do you think that transmission would work for me too ? |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/3 20:00
|
|||
|
_________________
863 cubic inches of C4 & C6 muscle C6 Corvette Z06 - Lemans Metallic Blue C4 Corvette 436 - Pure Black http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3933547 ... chevrolet-corvette/page-1 |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| PeteK | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Moderator
|
Quote:
It sounds well and good. As will all low dollar companies, I worry when I see them so cheap. If I were building that trans, my price list would likely be: $600 for parts $200 to ship the trans (minimum $200,up to $300) $200 to return the core (could be as high as $) Labor $350 ish Assuming they buy their parts $150 cheaper than I do, that leaves them with a profit of $75- $275. It doesn't add up. I do them cheap, and could not afford to do them on a hobby level for that price. Is it a bargain? Absolutely. Can I speak for them in any way? No With the above said, I hope it doesn't appear I am bashing them. Not at all the case. Quite possibly they are excellent builders that are selling them with almost no profit to build reputation and get their name built up? |
||
Posted on: 2009/1/4 2:17
|
|||
|
_________________
"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
| dan0617 | Re: Transmission question | ||
|
Senior Guru
|
I'm not sure but it sounds to me like he is a guy that is retired and just has a small shop and builds them to make a little extra money. I also wonder if maybe he is saving some money by building his own shift kits rather than buying a kit?? The shipping part is what really surprises me, that he can ship both ways included in that price. The warranty and his 100% positive ebay feedback is what is leaning me his way. He says he has the same exact trans that he will put together for me behind 700hp. He also told me he has a customer with the same trans making 700rwhp and that if I call him he will give me the phone number of the guy so that I can call him and discuss it.
|
||
Posted on: 2009/1/4 16:47
|
|||
|
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
|||
|
Transfer
|
|
||
You can view topic.
You cannot start a new topic.
You cannot reply to posts.
You cannot edit your posts.
You cannot delete your posts.
You cannot add new polls.
You cannot vote in polls.
You cannot attach files to posts.
You cannot post without approval.
|
|