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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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update...........
  new TPIS TB vs stock one   ready to start  and a short video
Posted on: 2010/7/11 11:47
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Thanks Pete!
I've installed it straigt up (lined up the dots) and then rechecked it with degree wheel and dial gauge to see if everything is within the specs. I'm a little behind with posting and pics. The engine is allready in the car and I've fired it. I had some trans problems but I've sorted that out. Right now, Mick (mseven) and I are trying to get the tune right. I'm having some idle issues. Engine is running waaay too rich at idle. Right now I'm waiting for a new O2 sensor to come, as mine is not in the best condition. I've started a thread on another forum but I won't start a new one here, I'll just C/P from there: C/P In short here are engine specs - 2bolt block, overbored 0.020" - stock crank - SCAT forged rods 5.7" - SRP forged pistons, flat-top - #113 heads, ported, 2.02/1.60 valves - ported superram - #24 FMS injectors - Hooker LT headers - CC XR288HR cam, 288/294 adv., 236/242 @.050", .55"/.57" lift, 110 LSA I'm having my tune done by Mick (mseven). Engine fired right up with his first tune but it was running rough and very rich. From datalogs, we have noticed that vacuum is low (70+ kPa). So I tried to find if there are any vacuum leaks or other mechanical problems. I did find some issues, but I sorted them out and I still have the same problems. Problems are next: When I start the engine it runs stable but very rich. WBO2 is showing high 11 to low 12AFR and considering the size of the cam and overlap, I think that it's even more rich than that. As the engine is heating up the problems start. Engine wants to stall and sometimes it stalls if I don't blip a throttle. Idle starts to go up and down all the time. IAC ccounts are allways going down. From the moment when I start the engine IAC counts are slowly going down, until they finally reach zero. If I adjust the throttle screw I can get them to raise, but again, as the engine is running IAC starts to drop. Map signal is acting very similar. As I start the engine, it's stable at lower 70's but as the problems with stalling start, MAP starts to jump all over the place. I guess that it's normal that it jumps to 90 because engine almost stalls. All the time there is way too much fuel as I can see it smoke and it really burns the eyes. If I start to drive, WBO2 starts to show 14.5-15 AFR and the smoking stops. But as soon as I stop and the engine starts to idle, AFR gets really rich. As for vacuums, I have plugged everything except MAP, fuel regulator and PCV hoses. I have tried to plug the TB with engine running and listen for any vacuum leaks but I can't hear anything. Any inputs and ideas are welcome!
Posted on: 2010/7/5 10:28
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Re: 700r4 - NO SHIFTS |
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Thanks! I sure will. But first, I have to get my engine tuned.
Posted on: 2010/6/27 16:39
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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...................
- new Melling M-select oil pump   - new canton RR oil pan   - intake mainifold and valve covers are on   - engine and trans connected and ready to be installed  ...........
Posted on: 2010/6/27 9:54
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Re: 700r4 - NO SHIFTS |
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I've assembled everything back together and it works :-)
I drove the car yesterday for the first time in last 9-10 months. Great feeling! Thanks for all your help!
Posted on: 2010/6/27 9:31
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Re: 700r4 - NO SHIFTS |
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It looks that my luck might be getting better. I've pulled the trans pan
and found a broken filter neck. I really don't know how it happened but it looks like because of this, pump was pulling air and maybe some fluid, but definatelly not enough. I only hope that this didn't cause any other problems. I'll know soon. Also, over the time I did some research regarding my 3-4 upshift problems and I've found that there are some modifications that can be done to improve 3-4 shifts, so while I have the pan down, I'll try to make them.
Posted on: 2010/6/23 17:35
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Re: 700r4 - NO SHIFTS |
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OK, here is an update, finally.
I've tried what Pete suggested on another forum and it looks like ther might be a problem with the pump. As soon as I start the engine, fluid starts to flow, but it flows for a very short period of time and than it stops. (Take a look at the video). Fluid level was in the middle between min and max when I tried this. Opinions? Pete? [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmi5qbBPO8E"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmi5qbBPO8E[/URL]
Posted on: 2010/6/22 17:52
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Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside |
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Looks great Pete! Good luck and keep us posted!
BTW, looks like we decided for the same tuner.
Posted on: 2010/6/16 17:51
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Re: 700r4 - NO SHIFTS |
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Thanks Mick!
I guess that this will put a delay on my logs. I hope that this won't be a problem for you?
Posted on: 2010/6/13 12:49
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Re: 700r4 - NO SHIFTS |
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Yes.
Could somebody check where is fluid level on dipstick with engine off?Pete suggested (on another forum) that it might be a pump problem, and I think that he might be right. The more I think about it, the more I believe that something broke in the trans in the same time when I blew my engine. Maybe even the trans went first and that was why engine overreved!?
Posted on: 2010/6/13 7:31
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Re: 700r4 - NO SHIFTS |
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Yes, the converter is bolted.
Converter wasn't dry. I never took it out of the trans when I removed it from the engine. I forgot to mention that I've also installed the new trans pan. When I've put engine/trans back into the car, I've installed the new, aluminum oil pan. when the pan was down, I have also installed the new filter. Than I've added the fluid to the max, and started the engine. As the engine ran, I had to add about 2 quarts more to get it back to normal level.
Posted on: 2010/6/12 18:16
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700r4 - NO SHIFTS |
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I've just started the engine after rebuild and now the trans won't shift into gear. No reverse, no forward gears.
When i first started, trans was about 2 quarts low on fluid, but i added fluid with engine running, and it's now on normal level. I went through all gears, but nothing. Trans was out of the car for 9 months, but it ran normally when i removed it. Any idea what could be wrong? Could routing of cooler lines be wrong and cause this? I don't think so. Fluid level drops a few milimeters when the engine is started. The linkage is OK, I checked it because I installed new cable bracket. My trans is converted to full manual operation with TransGo shift kit. Converter is properly bolted. One more thing. When my engine broke, I had tu pull the car home. I didn't tow it, since it was only a mile or mile and a hlaf from my home. Could've that caused the problems? Any idea is appreciated!
Posted on: 2010/6/12 17:20
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Quote:
 Quote:
They sure are! And the feeling is very good when tightening them. No stretching whatsoever.
Posted on: 2010/6/2 13:26
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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I've put 1/4 turn. That was working for me on my
previous lifters. But I modified valve covers so that I can take them off in a minute and I plan to readjust with engine running.
Posted on: 2010/6/2 6:30
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Re: 1989 L98 Engine rebuild - Part 2: prep and install |
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Looks like we'll have our cars ready about the same time.
But I'm a little bit behind with posting. Nice work!
Posted on: 2010/6/1 11:39
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Thanks!
............. I did some more work. heads are on      rockers are on and valve lash is adjusted 
Posted on: 2010/6/1 11:06
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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I try to take photos of everything, but I forgot to
take some of intake before porting. 
Posted on: 2010/5/31 12:05
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Update......
I'm finished with intake manifold (superram) porting:     .......................
Posted on: 2010/5/31 9:56
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Re: Question for Canton oil pan users |
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I received anwser from "Canton racing products".
It's 20mm thread hole that is intended for oil level sensor.
Posted on: 2010/5/21 16:06
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Question for Canton oil pan users |
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I've recently bought road racing oil pan for my Corvette.
It is part nr. 15-240T. However, I have one problem. Pan came without one of the plugs (please look at the picture). Does anybody know what size thread is in that hole? 
Posted on: 2010/5/21 8:45
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Re: 1989 L98 Engine rebuild - Part 2: prepping for install |
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Looks great! Keep us posted on yor progress!
Posted on: 2010/5/16 17:40
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Thanks for the heads up Will! I'll be carefull!
Posted on: 2010/5/14 11:54
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Thanks guys!
Quote:
I'm using Felpro 1043 head gaskets. I have "zero decked" the block so with those gaskets I should be exactlly at 0.039" quench and with 8.4 - 8.5 DCR. I don't plan to retorque. I've used those gaskets before and didn't retorque them. Never had an issue with them. Quote:
Thanks Will! Actually, I've been doing cylinder head porting for more than 10 years now, but I mostly do european and japanese 4-valve heads. My chambers came out at 59 cc's. Thanks for the advice on the valves. I didn't know that cast cams have issues. If I knew earlier, I would've probably select a different cam. I don't have time or money to go with a new cam now. But I don't mind checking the valves few times a year. BTW, what is the most common problem with cast cams? Do they tend to break, or lobes wear out or.....???
Posted on: 2010/5/13 10:23
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Update.............
I've finally found some time to finish the heads. New bronze valve guides are in and cut for .530" seals  Valve spring seats are cut for larger springs and to exact height    New seals, valves, springs, Ti retainers...   
Posted on: 2010/5/12 18:53
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Re: Carbon Fiber Finishing on Interior Components |
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That looks really great!!
Posted on: 2010/4/30 9:10
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Re: Valve spring help...... |
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Do you know what is stock spring rate?
If it's in 370 lbs/in range, you're good to go!
Posted on: 2010/4/22 9:33
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Re: short lived alternator |
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Quote:
I agree!! So I installed a new CS-144 alt New vs old:   CS-144 is quite larger so some modifications had to be done:  Also, since CS-144 has more Amps capability, I installed new (thicker) wiring:   Ready to run: 
Posted on: 2010/4/17 12:36
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Re: 1989 L98 Engine rebuild - Part 1: removal |
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Quote:
Sounds good! Either way you decide to go, keep us posted with as much pics as possible. I (and believe others too) allways enjoy threads like this.
Posted on: 2010/4/3 14:37
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Re: 1989 L98 Engine rebuild - Part 1: removal |
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Good work and nice writeup.
Are you going do do stock rebuild or do you plan to do some modifications to the engine?
Posted on: 2010/4/3 9:28
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Thanks guys!
I didn't have any issues with timing set. It fits nice. I did some work on oil return holes. I removed sharp edges and smoothened them out with sandind drums.
Posted on: 2010/3/30 11:19
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Here is a litte update with "a few" pics
crank balanced and polished  new ARP main bolts  crank in place and all mains measured with plastigauge   all mains are cleaned of plastigauge and lubed  checking crank end play  rings file fitted and measured for correct gap  new SCAT forged rods and Clevite rod bearings  plastigauged all rod journals   rods, pistons, rings assemblies  rotating assembly done   new (CC HR288) vs old (LPE 219) cams  cam and timing set are in   new LS lifters   That's it for now!
Posted on: 2010/3/29 20:31
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Re: Sport seat pics please |
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Posted on: 2010/3/16 22:03
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Quote:
For anybody interested, here you go: Croatia is a part of ex Yugoslavia. It's located very close to Italy (boot shaped half-island) Croatia location Capital city : Zagreb National language is Croatian Croatian language Croatia is parlamentary republic. National religion is 90% Roman Catholic. And one more very important fact. There are maybe 10 C4 vettes in whole Croatia. 
Posted on: 2010/3/3 14:15
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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That orange color was too much for me, so I cleaned it all
off and repainted it. So the block is bored/honed, zero decked, new cam bearings and freeze plugs are installed. Just one more final cleaning and it's ready for assembling.  
Posted on: 2010/3/3 10:59
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Yes, war was terrible (like any war). Some parts of Croatia were completely ruined and it was even worse in Bosnia.
And I understand them about the food. When you once try "chevapi" you'll allways come back for more.  Chevapi
Posted on: 2010/3/3 10:44
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Re: tpi 113 head swap |
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Nice work!
Posted on: 2010/3/2 12:15
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Re: tpi 113 head swap |
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Posted on: 2010/2/20 15:13
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Re: 113 head chamber question |
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I'm also really not sure why it's there, but I'm sure that it doesn't help combustion. Anything of that shape has nothing to do in a chamber.
Anyway here is a pic fron Vizard's book:  It's from the book below. There is not very much info specific to #113 heads but it's OK book to read. 
Posted on: 2010/2/20 14:45
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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No problem! I know what it's like loosing a sleep over some details!
Posted on: 2010/2/20 14:32
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Here is one pic with old guides driven out and you can see that there are no cracks or damages on guide bosses.
They remained exactly the same as were with guides in. But HEATING the head is a MUST!! 
Posted on: 2010/2/20 14:08
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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I'm going with complete new bronze guides. Old ones are
going out without a problem, but head must be heated before pushing them out. I've done a lot of similar heads (guide bosses concerned) and if guides are probperly driven out/in with heads heated and lubricated new guides, I've never had a problem.
Posted on: 2010/2/20 14:00
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Re: 113 head chamber question |
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David Vizard also suggests to remove them in his book on modifiying SBC cylinder heads.
I have removed them completely. You can see it here: http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... id=117112#forumpost117112
Posted on: 2010/2/20 10:43
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Finally I did some progress.
I was finished with rough porting so I took the heads to the machinist for new, larger valve seats to be installed. Here are pics before:   While he installed new seats I also asked him to add some material on the lower side of intake ports. I had some problems with leaks here because gaskets didn't have to much material to seat on. On the pics below you can see how much is gained in intake and exhaust ports with new seats installed. Also, you can see where material was added for better gasket sealing.    After removing extra material that was gained with larger seats, I went to work on chambers. Deshrouding valves is very important as new valves are significantly larger than stock and are much closer to chamber walls. First I roughly removed some material and then polished the chambers. Here are a few pics of work and the final result:        Next, I have to take the heads back to machinist to have new guides installed and valve job done.
Posted on: 2010/2/20 10:39
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2.02/1.60 valves in #113 heads |
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Does anybody here have this combo?
If somebody does, what size valve seats did you use and where did you buy them?
Posted on: 2010/1/23 18:09
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Re: Bob weigth |
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It looks like my calculation was OK.
In software, piston weigth should be input together with pin weigth.
Posted on: 2010/1/19 18:54
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Bob weigth |
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I was calculating bob weigth and this is what I came up with
piston - 495g - reciprocating weigth pin - 130g - reciprocating weigth spirolocks - 2g - reciprocating weigth ring set - 28g - reciprocating weigth rod small end - 191g - reciprocating weigth rod big end - 431g - rotating weigth bearing - 46g - rotating weigth I was using this formula: rotating weigth + 50% of reciprocating weigth So I came up with bob weigth of 910g but since there are two pistons per journal total bob weigth = 1820g Can somebody verify my numbers? I found some strange software, Maverick racing crank balance assistant and according to it, my bob weigth shoul be 1600g???? Here is link to Maverick page and if somebody is interested, scroll all the way down and download the software. http://www.maverickracing.co.uk/crankbalsoft.htm
Posted on: 2010/1/19 18:46
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Re: Engine rebuild/upgrade project |
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Update:
The torque plate that I had fabricated was finally done, so I took the block to the machinist. He will do next operations: - boring/honing 0.020" over - milling the decks to 9.000" deck height - installing new cam bearings - installing new freeze plugs - polishing the crankshaft - check the crank if it's in tolerances (I'll double check that myself) Here are a few pics:   While the block will be at the machinist, I will do some work on the heads and intake. As you know, one of my heads had some serious damage, so I gathered a new one. Only difference is that this head is completelly stock. So now I have one fully ported head (by myself) and one stock. I've cleaned one of the ports just to take some pics for comparison. I will do some more porting on both heads, as there is still some room for improvement but I'll do that later, after I'll have seats for new 2.02/1.60 valves installed.     
Posted on: 2009/12/5 19:51
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Re: What intake for high end 383? |
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Quote:
Exactly!
Posted on: 2009/12/4 18:32
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Re: What intake for high end 383? |
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Thank you Will for such detailed post.
I was hearing a lot of stuff that engine that turns 7200-7300 won't be streetable at all, and that it won't last very long. Well, I don't expect to put too many miles on it, but with my 3000 miles/year average, I think that it'll last for quite a while, with good maintenance of course.
Posted on: 2009/12/4 15:38
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Re: What intake for high end 383? |
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I'll go solid for sure. I was just wondering, because
it sounds really high for hydraulic. But either way, I'm impressed with numbers. Will, how is that car on the street. I know that you have manual, but how is drivability? At what rpms does it become alive? How many miles do you have on it, and how much do you expect to make with it?
Posted on: 2009/12/3 17:43
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