andy , I emailed bill b and here is what he said , he believes either the bolts that hold the pressure plate aren't tightened down evenly or your motor mounts are loose .do you have a puck type clutch ? if you pm me your email I will email the message he sent me . I am in the hospital now but can still use my computer

I was the one asking for andy ,just thought to try another site and see if we could find a answer to help out our friend

andy , you might want to ck the bottom motor mount bolt the vertical one . I found mine had worked loose . the other thought that came to mind was that maybe something is starting to go in the rear end like the pinion bearing .when you are backing up the pinion bearing would be trying to work its way out of the case . just what I thought it might be .could be way off base . only other thought would be the front yoke on the driveshaft might be worn .

I had that one not too long ago .I had 2 problems 1 the rotors were warped and the front end was out of alignment .I also balanced the front tires .

let me know if you decide to go and I will look for ya

glad to see you got her done . are you going to try her out @famoso on the 15th of feb? I am going to try to make it and what the different headers and exhaust plus new tune and clutch does for my times . hoping to drop the 11.92 @118.66 mph a little

you might have to by a couple of brass elbowsand a couple of feet of pvc rubber hose . you don't have to mount it on the motor . I mount mine on the drivers side inner fender well . but that is for a zr1 I don't know how the l98 pvc routing goes

I run non vented ones in both my zr1s. you still want the pvc valve in the system just put the catch can between it and where the pvc line goes back into the intake the burn the vapors . here is a very cheap catch can you can do . do you have a air compressor ??? what I use is a air compressor air/ water separator . you can get them for about 25 bucks at the throw away tool store (harbor freight ) I ck mine every 1000 mile . you just unscrew the plastic bowl drain the oil in it and clean the little brass filter with gas put it back together and you are ready to go . in the summit cat . steeda sells the same thing for 60 bucks.

andy thanx again . rear shock has come loose and is bouncing around , so I guess the shaft might be broken at the top, will know soon enough , to cold and late tonight though so tomorrow it is .I will get a metal blade for the sawsall.just in case.........

I am uncertain how to remove the shocks with the fx3 . the fsm to me isn't very clear how to take them off the car. and I don't want to mess up those expensive pieces. can anyone help a old fella???

andy , yes I do .I am starting with figuring out how I want to mount the speakers . I almost wish I had the cash to have this done but alas I don't and war stories about installers hacking up guys cars .made me decide to do this my self . I just have to go slow and think it through . well lunch is done so back I go . andy I cant thank .you enough for your help. next time I am in la o owe you a great lunch. I will ck with you before I cut anything

andy thanx a bunch for the info. will start on it tomarrow that way if I have a problem I can pray a lot .lol

[quote]
Danspeed1 wrote:
Well, unfortunately although I feel the same way, and my father felt the same way as he actually told her when he picked up the car she should have went after him, but apparently she is too busy and just wanted to be rid of the car. Now that it is in our possession the only thing to do is look forward. It is my opinion that he scored a really nice project car with a decent story. The car still has her plates on it and they are being returned this week. Even though it has nothing to do with us my father feels she should know that this guy filled her engine with gas so he is going to tell her as well as provide her with pictures. But at the end of the day its not going to change anything.


As for the car: today he was able to score what appears to be a complete harness from inside the car all the way though the engine compartment out of a 91... hopefully its the same as a 90?

Now we just need to figure out what to do with the engine. As always we work on a budget. Although I would love to do an LSx swap, I have a feeling mating a LSx to a ZF6 is going to create another hair pulling situation, and we already have enough of that going on. So maybe a heads/cam TPI is the best direction to go in.

DG[/quotemating the zf tranny to a ls motor isn't bad at all. bill boudreau aka the zf doc makes an adapter that makes it a piece of cake here is his phone number 602 319 6575 .tell him brad from lone pine sent ya . he is a great guy who does awesome rebuilds of the zf tranny .he could also help you through the rest of the change as he has already done it to his 89.

does the 90 interchange with a 92, if so then yes ,I would rather buy off the group than from a store . I am planning on running separate wiring to the speakers. the amp I have is a small one only 45 watts per channel. I just wanted something simple as my hearing isn't too good any way from my days as a ranger .50 cals do that to you

hi guys sorry I haven't been around in a while had some health stuff and am just getting back on my feet . well I got a kenwood receiver a small alpine amp and some polk speakers. I was wondering if they make a adapter so I could connect the receiver to my wiring without having to hack it up. the speaker and amp connections shouldn't be a problem but not sure how to connect the deck. can anyone help a old fella out ?????

my rear hatch doesnt open . i have tried both door switches as well as the center console and nothing . i am electrically challenged .help

i have a fidanza in both my zr1s .the only difference you seem to get from the solid flywheel is gear noise at idle . there shouldn't be any vibration change ,unless the flywheel isn't the same balance as the original .the benefit is you get a lot better acceleration with the lighter flywheel .

are they 23/4 in on the 92??

will , very nice , do you still have the irs in it and what have you done to that fine motor

where can one get the de soldering iron ????

another alternative would be to go to a single mass flywheel .i went to a fidanza flywheel which was 30+ lbs lighter and sure let the car accelerate alot faster at the start . you cant believe the difference it makes in first and second gear . jmho

Quote:bill boudreau makes a great short throw shifter that can be ordered either way 602 319 6575 . tell him brad sent ya .i have his shifter in both cars and also had a hurst which i took out to put bills in his is way better .jmho

bill has done the trannys on both my zr1s and they shift so smooth .he also has a short throw shifter that to me is way better than the hurst

thats great , you deserve it . you have worked so hard and even kept a good attitude.no way i could have . i have a broken big toe that just points cuz i kicked a 71trans am when i was younger .dont need a dog when i go hunting .jk

also a great way to find a vacuum leak is to get a small propane bottle and attach a 5/16 rubber hose to it and run it around where you think you might have a leak . where there is a leak the rpms will rise a bunch . glad to see you have got her back on the road .

another way to burp the cooling system is to raise the back of the car with a jack.. and fill it while warming it up. then just fill the over flow bottle all the way up and it will burp the rest of the way in a couple of driving cycles . its the only way i can get my zr1 done right .

so do older cars ie 1992 still have to pass the sniffer test ?

ya, kinda on the hush til she gets done .but she will be fun

i am looking for a dana 44 complete center section with 345 gears . please pm me if you have one for sale

a cool little trick i came up with was to use a hockey puck that has a groove cut in it for the side rail. put the puck in the jack cradle and jack away without fear of the car falling off the jack or cracking the under body .

thanx boy do they bring back memories . remember the tv add . that had the slogan i cant believe i ate the whole thing .my brother in law at the time was roland leongs crew chief and we were parked next to gene snow and ed McCullough, all 3 crews were making cracks about it and laughing about it over dinner late sat eve in the pits .we all took turns trying to imitate the guy on the side of the bed . ah the good old days

now thats a collectors piece

i will try i am rebuilding my 90 adding a few inches 380 4in liner and offset grinding the crank . plus fully porting the heads trick valve job and a new tune . hoping to get he into the low 11 sec range .

shre did you get the brake pads. o am having trouble finding pads for my brembos

art car of california trans. in huntington beach would also be a great place to go .

Quote:dont mean to hijack the thread but where in santa cruz do you play. i grew up playing pasatiempo on my uncles membership . he lived off the left of the par 5 6th hole .sure miss that course .

for those who like to do this at home . if you have a compressor , harbor freight has a neat little e vac unit for 16 bucks and it works like a champ.

have any of you guys thought of going to an edelbrock water pump. have flow more water with a better balanced flow the dirt track guys swear by these things . since you have an 89 you have this option .

Quote:i agree but i dont think they balanced them on the assembly line.on other thing on the 1/2 shafts. some of them have sketchy welds on the ends. i know of 2 people who have had them separate that way.i have ordered the nitro ready 1/2 shafts from dennys for that reason.but i drag race alot too.

Quote: i wonder the same thing . i can honestly say i have never marked for position any driveshaft on any car i have had and never had a problem ever . i know thats what it says in the fsm, just dont understand the logic behind it . jmho

glad i could share this and lucky to have met mark , i really wasnt looking forward to taking that key switch out i did buy him a case of his favorite beer for his kind help. the dealership wanted 350 bucks in labor to do this .

meet a retired locksmith while having coffee at the towns favorite morning meeting spot . shared my problem and he asked if i had electric contact cleaner ,powdered graphite and an air compressor . yup i said so off we went . first off he sprayed about 1/4 can on the contact cleaner in and around the outside of the lock . then using my needle blow off tool blew in and around the lock for a couple of minutes.then blew in an obscene amount of graphite inside the lock and around the outside where the lock goes inside the column . then put the key slowly into the lock 5 times .then put it in and fang if it didnt turn . he gave me the key and said try it . it turned like butter .he shared since i have a 1/2 mile dirt drive way that over time the lock got gummed up.so before you buy a new lock like i did give this a try .he shered that if a person does this at the first hint of the lock turning stiff that 99% of the time this will fix the problem . most locks are broke by people trying to force them when they get stuck or stiff . hope this helps someone along the way

what i know is you deserve a medal for not going postal with this problem . lets hope that you finally got a break and the problem is done with . i have been having fun with a 88 jeep cherokee that want to over heat no matter what i do .new head gasket,intake and exhaust gaskets .has this computer called renix. they used this goop to seal the connections which i found out from the forum guys melts and gets between the connections causing all sorts of problem .darn thing runs great but keeps puking water. thanx to seeing how you have handled your problem i havent thrown anything .YET . .

man problems like this can really boggle the mind .

you might want to try taping a fuel pressure gauge to your windshield for a couple of days and see what it reads. i found i had a heat soak problem when i did this .just a thought

thanx for your help . this is driving me crazy

thanx for the info . i bought a new lock cylinder from a dealership that has the correct pill value.so the next ?is how do i go about fixing this . the fsm is so involved it makes my head spin . can someone who has done this walk me through it . guess when you reach 60 you want the simplist explanation . with everything thats gone wrong this year i am thinking it might just be time to give up the dream of owning my zr1s and just go get something new and dependable

oh , it was doing this for a week now and before i just turned the switch to the acc mode then turned the switch to start from there and it worked for a while .

so what do i need to do . i bought a new key switch at a dealership in vegas .it has a funny key in it do i have to get a key made before trying to replace it .i have never done any type of work on this type of thing before .should i just take it to a dearship to get it fixed ??? the car has 100k miles on it

i allready tried the graphite in there and no luck what is causing the problem .do i need to get a new switch or is something else broke ?????