All Posts (dan0617)
Re: just cranked new engine, Need INFO................ |
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Senior Guru
 
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I know nothing about timing on an opti, but if it can be set get it set. Then, do a search on the IAC, it might need reset. Depending on the size of your cam, you might need to adjust the throtle adjustment screw until you get the IAC counts down around 20. I had to do that to get a good smooth idle on my setup. You would need to datalog to see the IAC counts.
Posted on: 2010/12/28 1:02
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: just cranked new engine, Need INFO................ |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
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Turn engine using bolt on front of crank with a big ratchet and socket until the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke (both valves closed, you can put both rocker arms on the #1 cylinder finger tight and neither will be down farther than the other) and the timing pointer lines up with the 0 on the balancer.
Adjust exhaust valves 1,3,4,8 and intake valves 1,2,5,7. I like to find 0 lash then go 1/2 turn of preload. (As a side note, since the engine is at TDC on the #1 compression stroke, this is a good time to check and make sure the distributor is installed correctly if you had it removed. Make sure the rotor is pointing at the terminal in the cap that has the #1 spark plug wire hooked to it, and make sure the other spark plug wires follow the firing order around the distributor). Turn the crank 1 full revolution, so the timing pointer again lines up with the 0 on the balancer. Adjust exhaust valves 2,5,6,7 and intake valves 3,4,6,8 can be adjusted. Now you are done and will not have to adjust valves with the engine running. No reason you need to adjust valves with the engine running on a hyd. lifter engine. EDIT: Looks like Matthew and I were typing at the same time.
Posted on: 2010/12/27 14:26
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Reinstalled distributer and engine won't start |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Make sure you don't have a plug wire crossed. I picked out which one I want to be #1 on the cap, then I numbered them all on the cap with a marker, following the firing order around. Makes it very easy to reinstall plug wires and such when working on the car, keeps me from screwing up and saves me time.
As per the pic posted above, you can choose any terminal to be #1 when you install the distributor, as long as you follow the order shown around the cap. When #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (make sure both #1 intake and exhaust valves are closed and the timing pointer is lined up at 0), put the dist. in so it has room to move some in both directions. Whichever terminal the rotor is pointing at, that is number 1. Snug the dist. a little, fire it up, and set the timing with a light.
Posted on: 2010/12/26 15:20
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Cam and Rocker Question for the Gurus |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I had cheap chrome centerbolts from Autozone before. I now purchased ones from Summit that say Chevrolet on them. I stayed with steel as I can bend them a little if necessary, but I didn't need to.
Nice looking engine! Very clean. I don't have any current pics but I'll get a few. Not nearly as nice looking as yours tho!
Posted on: 2010/12/26 15:15
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Cam and Rocker Question for the Gurus |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Update:
1.7 scorpions and perimeter bolt valve covers are on and car is running well. Can't drive it because my driveway is a sheet of ice, only 4X4's can go up and down it. Install went pretty well. I cut a chunk out of my pass. side A/C bracket so I can now remove that valve cover without removing the A/C bracket bolts. The pushrods were very close to the slots in the guideplates so I loosened the rocker studs, pushed the guideplates down as far as they would go, then retorqued the studs. That was about all that was needed to put on the 1.7's. I have Rhoads vari-duration lifters on the intake side so it takes a little longer to set up the valves, but all went well. AFR at idle is about 3/4 of a point leaner. Was idling around 13.7 to 14.0 now it idles around 14.4 to 14.8. I'm guessing it will be leaner everywhere so I'll have to start tweaking the tune in the spring. I never dialed in the timing all that well so I was going to work on the tune anyway, I might be able to pick up a few ponies when I do that. For now I've decided against retarding the cam timing. Might in the future but I really want to see if this change helped, and how much, before I do something else.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 22:44
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Merry Christmas Guru's |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Merry Christmas!!! Gonna be alot of overdrinking tonight and alot of overeating tomorrow.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 22:37
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Can't Find the leak |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Could just be the lower hose clamp needs tightened up. I've had that happen, when it is just a little loose it seems to leak at peak pressure, as CC explained.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 13:38
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Cam and Rocker Question for the Gurus |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Sadly, I can't remember for sure, but I think they are Crane Gold. I'll know soon when I pull them out. I know they are full roller and non self aligning and narrow body 1.6.
I bought 1.7 Scorpions. They are standard body width so I bought perimeter bolt valve covers and gaskets too.
Posted on: 2010/12/22 22:29
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Cam and Rocker Question for the Gurus |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I'm running 1.6 full rollers now. I've seen several magazine articles and dyno results and such on the internet where a smallish flat tappet cam motor picked up alot of power (20 or so, the higher the rpm the more the gain) by going from 1.5 rollers to 1.6 rollers. If I can pick up 15 or so by going to 1.7 rockers then for me it is worth it. The extra lift helps a little, but it was said the higher ratio rockers really help the ramp rate, which is why they help so much more on a flat tappet than they do on a roller, even though there are gains to be had on a roller motor too if it is a little undercammed.
Still unsure of the cam timing, I'm leaning towards leaving it alone for now and just installing the rockers, then fine tuning the tune.
Posted on: 2010/12/22 14:37
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_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: If it ain't one thing... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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recurring opti problems make me appreciate my dizzy, although they sometimes fail too, of course.
good luck.
Posted on: 2010/12/22 2:20
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: If it ain't one thing... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Double post. Sorry.
Posted on: 2010/12/22 2:20
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Cam and Rocker Question for the Gurus |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Quote:
Nobody really. But as it has turned out the cam is not bad. I bought an old used 383 and it had this cam in it. It's an XE274H. I ended up buying a new rebuilt short block from the local machine shop, afr heads, but was out of money. Instead of borrowing or charging a retro roller, I just stuck the flat tappet cam in it. It was the duration I was looking for (230/236) but was a little low on lift and ramp rates and such. Tuned it in, ran it at the track, and was happy with the results. It is now 2 years later and I'm still happy with the results but still can't afford a retro roller. Future plans, several years from now, is a large ci smallblock, bigger afr heads, a roller cam, and a miniram. So I don't want to spend tons on this setup since it is running so good. As a side note, my rpm readings are off the factory tach so I really can't verify exactly what rpms I'm shifting at or when it is falling off. Now that I changed the governor to shift at 6K or so, it pulls hard right to the shift point. Running the mph at the track and the 3520 raceweight through online calculators shows the RWHP around 395 on motor and around 600 on the spray. I'm pretty pleased at that. Just squeaking a little more out of it if I can without dropping much coin.
Posted on: 2010/12/21 22:07
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Cam and Rocker Question for the Gurus |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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@ bogus: Thanks for the info. I will see if I can contact him to see how it went and what he might have had to mod for them to work.
@vetteoz: VERY nice dyno pull. Have you had it to the track yet? Is that a manual or auto car? If it is a manual with a good launch or an auto with very high converter stall it should be capable of mid 11's. Josh, vetteoz, anyone else: You guys care to share what your static and dynamic compression ratios are, and what you are running for max overall timing at WOT?
Posted on: 2010/12/21 14:09
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Cam and Rocker Question for the Gurus |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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My block is a 1979 block. My hang-up on going roller is the $1000 it will take to do it, and the fact that I don't have a garage so any work I do will be outside. I'm also putting what car money is available into the interior and I'm saving for wheels.
Also, spinning to 6500 or higher isn't what I want to do. I am making good power and have good track results with staying below 6200. Just want to capitalize on that. Going to a roller would be a great improvement but going to a roller that makes power up through 7K isn't worth it for me. The dyno chart above is awesome but with my HSR intake and 2800 converter the powerband is about 500 or so rpms too high. With my converter setting me back to 5200 rpms after a shift, that cam would likely be slower than the one I have now on a track. I have no desire to ever run a higher than 2800 stall because my car is 99% street driven. I am looking to get the most out of the setup I have now, safely, since it will be likely 2 years before I can afford a major setup change. Any money I can spend on the car I've put into some interior mods, and am saving for wheels. By safely, I mean I don't want to walk the ragged edge with timing or spray any bigger of a shot. Josh, I have considered doing alot of things but agree with you that it isn't worth it. Since my cam is lacking, I have considered doing the cam timing and 1.7 rockers though. At this point I think trying the 1.7 rockers is a for sure. Should see a decent gain there and won't cost much, especially if I then sell my old 1.6 roller rockers. Might not feel it in the seat of the pants but it should show up on a timeslip. My main question is on retarding the cam timing. I am not sure if I will lose vacuum, or how much bottom end will suffer. I don't want to turn it into a dog. Also, will it gain any power above 5000 rpms, or will it just move the powerband up? Searching the internet, some say it will move the powerband up, others say it might go up maybe 200 rpms but the peak power will be higher. Obviously, with my converter, power below 5000 means very little. 5400 to 6200 is where I want my power to be. If it gains power in that area it will be power used all the way down the track. If it just moves the powerband up, probably not worth it since the powerband isn't too far off of where I want it now.
Posted on: 2010/12/21 14:06
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Cam and Rocker Question for the Gurus |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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OK, for those of you who don't know, setup is a 383, forged internals, AFR 195 streets, LT headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall converter, etc, etc, etc. Cam is a Comp flat tappet 230/236 duration, 110 LSA, .520 lift with my 1.6 rockers.
Best 1/4 mile run on motor was a 12.08 @ 114. Best on the spray was a 10.55 @ 133. I shift around 6000. I raised my shift points to 6500 but it noses over bad at anything over 6K. Likely running out of power at around 5800. Noses over whether on the spray or not. Dropping shifts back down to around 5800 to 6000 makes it pull hard all the time again. Don't care to rev much over maybe 6200 anyway, but wanted to give it a try. With the converter it stays above 5200 or so for the whole run. Not going to spend the money or time to put in a retro roller cam. Considered changing to a different flat tappet cam with maybe a 236/242 duration or so, but it is hard to find one with alot of lift. Also not sure I want to tear that far into it, but I think I'm giving up alot by only having .520 lift and the ramp rates of a flat tappet cam, when these heads flow so well up to .600 lift. So....question number one....it seems going to 1.7 rockers should add a decent amount of power. What do you guys think? I can afford them so that isn't a problem. Question number 2.....I've heard retarding the cam about 4 degrees should give it some more upper rpm power, especially since the cam is smallish for the build. Might sacrifice some low end power but I have plenty of that, and the converter keeps me up in the rpm range anyway when I'm at WOT. The cam has 4 degrees advance ground into it, and is installed straight up. Within a degree or 2 as far as I could tell with a degree wheel, I am sure not an expert at degreeing a cam! What do you guys think? Would it be worth retarding the cam 4 degrees, esentially removing the 4 degrees advance that is ground into it? Should add some upper rpm power, and should lose just a touch of dynamic compression, which would be a good thing since I'm barely getting away with 93 octane running a DCR as high as I am. Should be able to do it in a day and not cost me much money at all (gaskets and fluid and such).
Posted on: 2010/12/20 22:17
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: New best, 11.37 @ 122.88 |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Congrats. Great run!
Posted on: 2010/11/14 22:25
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Anyone running diesel oil? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Quote:
To answer your question, Money. Because I bought a 383 that was already built exactly what I wanted, but was an old style block. I can someday put a retro fit roller in it, but money was tight and I already had this 230/236 flat tappet cam laying around, so in it went. I was saving money for a new engine but mine went out about a year and a half before my wallet was ready for it to go, so I had to cut a few corners while spending the money where it was needed the most (block and heads). The old flat tappet is still serving me well.
Posted on: 2010/11/14 22:20
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Anyone running diesel oil? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I have an '89 with a 383 and a flat tappet cam. I run 10W40 Valvoline or Mobil or Castrol, synthetic blended usually, whichever I can find on sale. I then add a bottle of Comp Cams Break-In Oil, which I get from Summit Racing. It has large amounts of Zinc.
Haven't had any problems yet, and I have done everything else against the grain with this cam. (It's been installed in 3 different blocks now, and has been run with 3 different sets of lifters!)
Posted on: 2010/11/7 18:15
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: One plug has a little melting on the outside electrode |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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If you aren't running lean at all, then it's time to go a step colder on the heat range.
Posted on: 2010/10/31 22:19
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: What kind of Horsepower to expect with this set-up? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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You should for sure go up to AT LEAST a 2000 stall converter, preferably a 2400 to 2800 stall. It will help make up alot for still having the 3.07 gears. You will be pushing a good deal of power out, and the converter will let you in the powerband much quicker and much longer. A higher stall will increase the power to the ground, so to speak, since it will keep you in your powerband.
The engine combo you are putting together will be a good one.
Posted on: 2010/9/10 13:34
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Ybody vs Fbody PCM |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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PCM's are the same. Not from year to year, but an ecm is an ecm, if it has the same model number then it is the same, no matter what car it is in. Memcal's are the same also, but are loaded with different .bin files.
Why did you buy a spare ecm, have you had problems with bad ecm's in the past?
Posted on: 2010/7/25 18:10
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Engine Tapping above 2000 rpm Part Three..(dilemma) |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Quote:
Pick a nice supercharger cam. Run the comp cams break in oil additive, even though it is a roller cam.
Posted on: 2010/7/18 16:07
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Big cams vs vacuum |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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12" of vac at idle, 230/236 cam on a 110 lsa. Only time brakes don't work right is when the vac booster is toast. My car is a MAF car so I don't have any MAP info for you.
Posted on: 2010/7/17 20:23
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: How do you remove the old bushings on rear dogbones? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I replaced the batwing bushings because I was doing a D44 swap and it was out anyway. There is a difference, it is worth doing. I did it all at once though so I can't say whether or not it is worth doing the batwing bushings. May or may not have had a noticeable difference without doing the batwing bushings.
Posted on: 2010/7/17 20:16
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: How do you remove the old bushings on rear dogbones? |
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Senior Guru
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2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
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I used a drill and drilled holes the whole way around, then beat them out. Not much beating once the holes are drilled.
The new ones tapped in fairly easily. I greased them up with the lube provided. I went with polygraphite bushings everywhere in the rear, and don't have a single squeak or squeal anywhere.
Posted on: 2010/7/17 18:14
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Tapping noise above 2000 RPM part two |
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Senior Guru
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2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Bent or burnt exhaust valve?
Posted on: 2010/7/13 10:57
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Where to install MSD Box/Coil Blaster/Map Sensor? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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That's almost exactly where mine is mounted. Why do you need a shorter coil wire? It's only a couple feet long. I inserted mine inside a small diameter heater hose, then ran it right across the top of the heater core box. Good wires, good ignition, what is the problem with that length of coil wire? Mine is putting out enough spark to light off alot of nitrous on a high compression engine and put me in the mid 10's.
As a side note, I'm proud of you for saving the A/C system. Most of my friends tried to talk me into getting rid of mine. I'm glad I kept it, and glad to see you didn't hack yours either...............now get rid of that damn smog pump!
Posted on: 2010/7/13 1:24
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Looking for used L98 exhaust parts. |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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As mentioned above, go with a stock LT1 muffler system. I run a stock LT1 muffler system, from about the differential back. Those are awesome, mandrel bent, stainless, sounds great I don't run a cat or resonator or anything and have no resonance. There is almost always one on the other forum's for sale section for cheap.
Posted on: 2010/7/10 14:35
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Early C4 cooling fan |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I've always heard great about Dewitts stuff, but for the price of that fan, you can go to ebay and get a 2 row aluminum direct fit radiator with (2) 12" fans included, that pull 2800 CFM total (1400 each). I am thinking of trying one myself.
Posted on: 2010/7/10 14:28
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Where to install MSD Box/Coil Blaster/Map Sensor? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I have my Crane HI-6 mounted on the passenger side, rear part of the wheelwell. Little bolts come out through the wheelwell, reach above and behind the tire to put the nuts on. Can barely notice it is there. It's kind of at an upward angle so I can see the adjustment screws for the rev limiters and turn them easily.
Blaster coil is mounted way out on the passenger side, kind of near the ESC module.
Posted on: 2010/7/9 18:55
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: I need more air........... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I honestly don't know if it would be worth it for you to tear back into it to change the cam advance. I don't know that much about it.
When you go to a 383 in the future it will effectively lower the peak power rpms some, as more cubes eat up more cam. If I were in your shoes, I'd be very happy with the results. Shifting at 6200 isn't going to hurt your power/drag times as much as you think. I would drop down to 1.5 rockers to effectively lessen the cam a little, and go enjoy it!
Posted on: 2010/7/3 17:48
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: I need more air........... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Mine sounds the same way, it is loudest when the car is cold/warming up.
Posted on: 2010/7/2 19:31
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Roll Bar |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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The only problem is, other than the one I put in the first post, every bar does not allow the convertible top to go down. I NEED the top to be fully functional. I'm thinking the 4 point will be OK for now, probably add a harness bar and maybe the diagonal. Will likely have the 5 point bar added in the future, as Beach described. I'm basically thinking that the 4 point street bar would be a good base starting point and I can have other pieces fabbed and added to it over time.
Posted on: 2010/7/2 4:12
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Tach question |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I just eliminated my tach filter completely and it fixed all my screwy tach issues.
Posted on: 2010/7/1 17:25
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_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Roll Bar |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Ordering me a roll bar. Not IHRA legal since there is no diagonal brace or harness brace, and it is only a 4 point, but I think my track tech will let me run. They just said to get some sort of roll protection and make sure it is built out of the proper pipe material and properly welded. I can always have a certified welder friend of mine add a diagonal and harness bar and even a removable 5 point bar if necessary in the future. This is the only one I can find that allows the use of the soft top. They make a 4 point race bar with a diagonal and harness bar but it doesn't let you put the soft top down after it is installed.
http://www.lpiracing.com/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=24065
Posted on: 2010/7/1 17:02
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: My '91 on the dyno |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Quote:
Yes I am hitting them. Fairly hard by the looks of it. I forget how long you suggested I make them but I decided to make them like 3/8" longer than that. I figure if I lose traction from hitting them it is better than the 1/2 shafts not being level when I hit the spray 15' out of the gate.
Posted on: 2010/6/29 1:55
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: I need more air........... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Have you looked at the datalog yourself? What MAF gms are showing? I don't think 94 MAP is very far off. Easily could be TB blades not fully tightly open. Carpeted floormat can cause that, I had that problem once. Might just need to adjust the throttle cable bracket a hair.
Maybe you could attach your datalog for a few of us to look at, or export it to a CSV file and open it with microsoft excel and look at it that way. I'm just not so sure you have a problem at all.
Posted on: 2010/6/25 20:33
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: 91 Corvette 383 Super Ram |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Quote:
I was thinking the same thing on the stock 14 degrees, but don't know that year of car so I didn't mention it. Might want to check it out. Zex 150 shot for some added fun! 
Posted on: 2010/6/25 17:16
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: My '91 on the dyno |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Josh has given me excellent advice on launching over the years. He pointed me in the direction of positive camber in rear alignment, removing front sway bar, and snubber extensions on the rear. Those are my only traction mods other than tires. I doubt you need any of that yet, but once you up the converter stall you will.
Quote:
This is a great starting and learning point but never yielded the results I was looking for. Quote:
This yielded me very satisfying results. Try about 20 psi in the nittos, bet you will end up at around 18. Quote:
Only had the balls to try this once, and it didn't give me any better times. I thought for sure it did, but it didn't. Felt VERY hard on my shit and I didn't want to break anything 1.5 hours from home at the dragstrip. Josh is king of putting it to the wood and worrying about damage later. Wish I could do that. I just can't. Quote: Next, back off the converter some, maybe bring the RPM to 1500 or so then wood the car to let the converter flash. This is the hardest on the car, but if the tire will take it this method will produce the best times. NEVER had the balls to try this, but I have a 2800 stall converter. Flashing a higher stall means something has to give. I now have a D44 so maybe I'll try this eventually. If you are running a stock or near stock converter this might work best for you. Quote: Edit - I just re-read my post and I come off like an expert preaching the 'right' way to do stuff. I'm not an expert, on top of that I have a 6 speed, and I have absolutely zero experience drag racing an automatic C4. The above is just how I think I would try to achieve what you are looking for, it may work well, work some, work a little, or not work at all. My disclaimer: Ditto. Only I don't have a 6 speed. Can we get an "Expert Opinion" in here? lol. Good luck at the track and keep us posted. I'm sure mid upper 12's will be yours.
Posted on: 2010/6/25 17:09
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: My '91 on the dyno |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Put a set of Nitto drag radials on her. Run them at about 18 psi. Heat them a little before the run (like a 7 sec. burnout). Hold the brake and stand it up on the converter till just before the car creeps forward. When the last yellow lights, very quickly roll the pedal to the floor. Don't mash it or you will risk breaking the rear, although at your power level I doubt you will. You will cut a 1.6X 60' time, and turn something in the 12.8 range. The power and setup is there, you just need to stick it.
I ran many many 1.6X 60' times on my nittos. Never broke the rear till I put the ET street radials on and cut quite a few 1.5X 60' times. Even still, it only broke because it went sideways during a burnout and I jumped out of the gas too quickly. It snapped straight and snapped lots of stuff inside the rear. BTW: Beautiful engine! Disclaimer: This is not an expert opinion. It is the opinion of a beat down redneck who has spilled alot of blood, sweat and beers under the hood of a car that his wife is tired of seeing money disappear on. If you want an expert opinion, please see post #5 of this very thread.
Posted on: 2010/6/25 4:17
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: I need more air........... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Mine's an '89 so my setup is a little different, but my MAF will only read up to 254 gms/sec.
Also, I'm running all the stock stuff in front of the throttle body, except for a cut lid and K+N filter. I put on a stock tb bored out to 52mm and noticed no difference over the stock 48mm tb.
Posted on: 2010/6/25 4:10
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_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: 91 Corvette 383 Super Ram |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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It's the land and sea dyno. Trust me. I'm sure on this one.
When I had my stock bottom end but rebuilt top end, I made a few dyno pulls on a land and sea dyno at God Speed in central PA. On a stock bottom end, reworked heads, 224/230 cam, HSR intake, and a 150 shot, I turned out 412 rwhp and 417 rwtq. I was disappointed. Very disappointed. I was sure I was going to dyno in the ballpark of 500 rwhp and 500 rwtq. Searched and searched for a problem but all seemed fine with the car. Got made fun of by my Mustang buddies......who I find out later both had their huge peak numbers from dynojet pulls. Then I took it to the track and ran an 11.43 @ 124 mph on a hot day, at 3520 lbs with me in it. Spanked the supercharged Mustangs! Using rwhp calculators, from my ET, I made 466 rwhp. Using my mph, which is more accurate especially since I was babying the launch with a D36 rear, I made 524 rwhp. I called the guy at the dyno shop and told him his numbers read about 20 to 25% low. He said the land and sea dynos always turn out numbers about 10 to 15% lower than a Mustang dyno, and about 30 to 35% lower than a dynojet. He said 20% lower than rwhp calculated from track mph was normal for this type of dyno. He also said to forget about dyno numbers for anything other than making a pull, then making a change, then making another pull to see if the change made a difference. So, from all this and from experiences of others I know, I have concluded that Land and Sea dynos read way low, Mustang dynos are a real world number, and dynojets read way high. EDIT: My track prediction for the car is low 12's if you can get it to launch decent. A hard launch dead hook and you might touch the 11's. Please let me know, I'm curious now.
Posted on: 2010/6/25 3:50
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: AFR's, Did I gain anything...... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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It is very safe to do while the car is on the dyno, when you are in a building detonation is VERY loud. On the track you would need to be listening for it.
I don't suggest you do that until you get your air fuel ratios in the 12's for the whole run or dyno pull (so you know you aren't getting detonation from going lean), and then only if you still have knock retard showing up with a fairly conservative timing table. Your knock retard system is an excellent way of finding the limit on timing, assuming you are keeping your fueling in the 12's on the afr gauge.....but.....if you are getting false knock from header/exhaust harmonics, loud valvetrain, etc., then you will need to disconnect the knock retard system and go old school to get the timing dialed in. If you can't hear detonation at all and you have disabled the knock retard system due to false knock, you can also look at the spark plugs for timing marks, and for black flecks on the porcelain, which is the first sign of detonation on plugs. If you are making runs with no black flecks, keep going up 2 degrees at a time, and adjusting the fueling accordingly to keep it in the mid 12's, till you see them. Then back it down 2 degrees and you should be where you want to be. Make sure you sneak up on timing, especially the timing less than say 3600 rpms as that is where I found I had to pull alot compared to 4800 rpms and on up in order to stay out of detonation. You are for sure on the right track waiting to datalog to see what is going on before you start pulling timing or adding fuel. I do suggest a wideband 02 if you are going to be tuning anywhere other than a dyno, since the dyno will have a wideband 02 already. There are a few members on here that are much better at tuning than I, but above is the method I had to use to get my timing and fueling dialed in at WOT. Also, if you get into doing your own tuning, www.thirdgen.org, DIY PROM section, is a huge wealth of knowledge. Search function will turn up an answer to just about any question you have.
Posted on: 2010/6/23 13:06
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: My '91 on the dyno |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Quote:
Awesome job. Are your heads still bone stock? If so, impressive! Nice to see a TPI intake getting down towards and eventually into the 12's. Don't see that too often, although there are some here who have done it. My guess is, with an intake swap to a LT1 style or a superram, and a matching converter if you are an auto, you would be a mid to low 12 car.
Posted on: 2010/6/23 12:51
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_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: AFR's, Did I gain anything...... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Congrats! Nice improvements. I think your tune is closer than alot of people think, but needs a little work. I'm guessing from what I'm seeing you are going a little too lean for the amount of timing you are running in that area of the tune. It is pulling timing I'd bet.
I found through track testing that my car makes it's best power at 12.2 to 12.7 afr. Anything over 13 and I lose power, no matter where I set the timing. Anything under 12 and I also seem to lose power, but not as much as I lose when I approach 13.5 afr. If you get the afr's dialed down to less than 13 everywhere and you think it is pulling timing due to false knock, cut the brown wire that is coming out of the knock module. I tried the LT4 knock module and now I even have the elusive 4.3 caprice knock module, and still got some false knock. I cut the brown wire so it disables the knock retard but doesn't throw any codes. I then put a male connector on one end and female on the other so I can plug it back in anytime I want. Just listen closely for pinging when making runs, it will sound like someone shaking popcorn kernels in a tin can. Keep advancing timing, and watch the afr's as every 2 or so degrees of timing you gain without detonation you will need to add more fuel. When you hear any detonation abort the run, go back, pull out 2 degrees of timing, and you found the sweet spot. What tires are you running? I used Nitto drag radials and with a fast roll down of the throttle, after a good tire heating, it would dead hook and I'd get 1.6X 60' times every pass. I went to MT ET street radials, and I could get those times (and 1.5X 60' times when spraying just after getting my foot to the floor) with very little tire heating. The tread doesn't last as long tho. Only suspension mods are removing the front sway bar (you could disconnect yours to see if it helps, without removing it), and setting the rear alignment to +1.5 degrees camber. I run around 17 to 18 psi in the rear tires when drag racing. Doing these things, you should be able to run with or beat my N/A times. My best so far was a 12.08 @ 113. Was consistently 12.15 to 12.20 last season, on the 3.07 gears. I'm guessing this year, since I went to 3.45 gears and a D44 so I can launch harder, and some more tuning, that I'll get an 11.90 or maybe 11.80. I'm betting you will get that, I'm guessing your car is lighter than mine. I'm sitting at 3520 with me in it.
Posted on: 2010/6/21 14:22
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Short lived alternator |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I guess I'm a lucky guy....I have a stock alternator on my '89, running a full time fuel cooler fan (900 CFM), the radiator fan nearly full time, and dual nitrous bottle heaters, not to mention all the other addons like nitrous solenoids, a Crane HI-6, timing retard box, aftermarket stereo and speakers, etc. And, I turn it to 6500 rpms. I guess the old stock units are the best.
Posted on: 2010/6/19 21:56
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_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: TTS Datamaster? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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I used TTS Datamaster for a while, then tried TunerproRT. I like Tunerpro alot better.
As you get into tuning, let me know if I can help you in any way. I can help you alot if you go with Tunerpro, and I'll do what I can if you use Datamaster. Also, www.thirdgen.org is a great site for tuning. Go to the DIY PROM section. The search function there has been assistance of epic proportions to me. If you are needing a tune for a build starting from scratch, the moates website, under downloads, has hundreds of tunes for different builds. You can download a tune from a build similar to yours for a starting point.
Posted on: 2010/6/19 21:47
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Converter lock up |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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My '89 vette, when stock, locked the converter up in 3rd. Set in the tune by mph with some input from tps. When I got my trans built, the guy was going to set it to lock immediately after the 3-4 shift. He said that is the way he sets up all the transmissions for street rods and such that run 700-R4's. I told him I needed it set up like stock so I could choose the point at which the TC locks. I now have it lock at 48 mph at part throttle no matter what gear I'm in (although at that mph I'm in 3rd). At WOT I have it lock not long after the 2-3 shift.
Not sure if and how to control the lock point with your setup, but I think that locking immediately after OD engages is the way most aftermarket transmissions are set up, especially if it is a retrofit setup.
Posted on: 2010/6/19 21:42
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Leak at spark plug |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Quote:
I couldn't agree more. I've yet to crossthread a plug and not know it. Loosen the plug 1/2 to 1 turn with a socket and ratchet. After that, you should be able to turn the plug by hand many turns before it comes out. If it only goes a turn or 2 then comes out, then it is crossthreaded and not seated the whole way. You should be able to take the plug out and see if the plug "washers" are crushed down. If they are, then it was seated and not leaking.
Posted on: 2010/6/19 21:24
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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Re: Starting problem # 1 |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00 From Tyrone, PA
Posts:
1260
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Likely the ground wire isn't getting enough ground. Clean up the location where the ground wire bolts to the block. You could even try getting another ground wire and ground it to a new, clean location to see if that fixes the problem.
Posted on: 2010/6/19 21:18
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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