dan0617 wrote:
The 700R4 WOT shift points are controlled by the governor. It can be adjusted fairly easily and cheaply to get the WOT shifts right where you want them.

The part throttle shifts are a combination of the governor springs, the TV cable and other things. I have yet to figure out how to get the part throttle shift rpms up where I want them. Weaker governor springs will not let it shift at all. Adjusting the TV cable will make a small difference but can burn up the trans in a hurry. I've been told a TCI constant pressure valvebody will allow me to put the TV cable wherever I want it in order to raise part throttle shifts and will not burn up the trans, but I haven't tried one yet.

The shift firmness can be changed with a shift kit or smaller shift improver kit. Fairly cheap and easy to do and works great.


The "e" transmissions are completely computer controlled. I wish I had one. I think you can install an "e" trans in your car but you will need the trans wiring harness, possibly the entire engine wiring harness, and the pcm from a car that came with an "e" transmission. If your car is an '89 then you will need to find a pcm that used MAF and an "e" transmission. It can be done, search on www.thirdgen.org in the DIY prom section. I'm sure I've seen people talk about doing this.

bogus wrote:
Huh? It's harder for you to keep a manual running? If that is your logic, the auto will NOT fix that problem.

dan0617 wrote:
If you are talking about an '89, the stall speed is very low, around 1200 to 1400. Earlier years had higher stalls. You would benefit greatly with a 2200 rpm stall converter, or higher if you don't mind living with a high stall slushy feeling for around town low speed driving or going up a driveway, etc. I have a 2800 stall and wouldn't want to go any higher for a car that is driven much. If my car was a daily driver I'd go 2000 to 2200.

I never went to an aftermarket shifter because I set my car up to shift automatically. Some time in recalibrating the governor was time well spent and didn't cost much at all. The stock shifting is kind of weak, and is worse with a high stall converter.

700R4 mileage is totally up in the air. The stock '89 vette trans in my car had just over 100K miles and was holding up to mid 11 sec. 1/4 mile passes on a 2800 stall converter, a B+M shift improver kit, and a tranny cooler. I went with a beefy rebuilt trans when I changed my setup to run mid 10's but it was still going strong when removed. I don't think it would have lasted long at mid 10's but who knows.

If this car is going to be 11's or slower in the 1/4, and not used for autocross or road racing, or is just going to get beat on the street, I'd install a converter and a tranny cooler, and a decent shift kit, (or a TCI constant pressure valvebody), and recalibrate the governor to get it shifting where you want and run it. (or disregard the valvebody and governor if you want to shift manually). That trans might go tomorrow or might last for a long time. The '89 was one of the better stock 700R4's. If it is to be road raced or autocrossed, IMO, it won't survive long with any amount of power put to it. You would likely be best to swap it out now, before failure.

Steve40th wrote:
They are filming on the North SHore. I drove into their shoot one day in my Island Car. OOPS.
I will figure a way. I do travel to and from the Mainland. I am leaving here in Nov, but i dont think it will fit in a Pelican case

CentralCoaster wrote:
Quote:

iCorvette wrote:
too hot here in LA to impair a vent with a light, but i got it in and it works....

Actually the Raptor light is only about 3/4" diameter, A/C works great.

rayquayle wrote:
It was pin E1 on Connector C100 on mine.

bogus wrote:
Do you have the Helm Factory Service Manual? If not, get it.

Seriously... many of your wiring related questions will be answered by that book... and if you are doing ANY THING electrical with these cars.

And if you can't fully understand it, we can help with that, and those with the same manual can direct you to pages.

CentralCoaster wrote:
Yes, but if you are going to port it yourself anyways, why pay TPIS extra to port it?

If you have the accel, just use that. I don't have any pics of my edelbrock handy, but I've seen the accel and I don't see a noteworthy difference.

CentralCoaster wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
For the cost of the extrude honing and buying the base at $400, then adding in the runners you could buy a better intake. I am going to use TPI on my rebuild because I'm trying to do some porting myself and stick on a somewhat budget.

Matthew

There's hardly any room to port on the stock TPI setup. Or if you mean you want to port a TPIS intake, save your money and port an edelbrock instead.

dan0617 wrote:
Quote:

iCorvette wrote:
since the party is over at around 5500 rpm, is it wise to set the limiter at 6000? or there about? and not go to 6500 (stock)

thanks

Yes. I revved a stock 350 bottom end to 6200 rpm shift points for a season with no problems, but that was with an HSR intake and other supporting mods so that was about the optimal shift point for me.

For you, I'm guessing 5500 to 5800 shift points, I'd set the rev limiter around 6000 or 6200.

BrianCunningham wrote:
overrev and LT1 and you'll spin the rod bearings.

Alcee1 wrote:
What is meant by over revving????? when you've blown your motor, you over rev'd couldn't resist.

vetteoz wrote:
Quote:

iCorvette wrote:
what would be my super ram optimal shift points?

This test on a SR equiped 383 ( with bigger cam than yours ) shows it losing power badly past 5500 so there is little point reving higher because you will be slowing down. You will also note in the comparison ; only the HSR and MR show power gains through 6000.

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Art ... Details.asp?ID=1737510521