Andrew wrote:
That is odd you got a 1098. Maybe it's similar to a dividend distribution. Some dividends are taxed, some are not, but regardless, you still get a 1099-DIV.

I think your decision is wise. What did the tax pro tell you?

TommyT-Bone wrote:
8 out of 17 but I didn't use any lifelines, google or take the test a second time.

tjpreul wrote:
What about making a thicker cap for the end of the spring? A small amount may equal a lot by the time it is measured at the end of the a-arm.

Ultraman wrote:
I just bought a racetonix 190 lph kit and wondered when I saw the sock if it was the right one. what are they supposed to look like? This one is about 4 inches long and flat.

bogus wrote:
We talked about this Sunday night... it makes sense, I guess. You take the spring farther away from the chassis, effectively raises the ends.

Would it also effect spring rate?

92LRC wrote:
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Pumps are pretty reliable. The sock could (okay it is black and nasty). Takes about an hour to take it out and change.

Doesn't seem worth doing just the sock. If I'm gonna replace I'll get the racetronix kit that has a pump, sock, and all the hardware. It kinda seems that this is where I'm heading.

92LRC wrote:
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bogus wrote:
I had this when turning to the left, only. It did it a couple of times, then never did it again. Never figured that one out... and at the time, I had a nearly full tank.

You know, now that you mention it, I think it's always happened on a left turn. Funny.

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Steve40th wrote:
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92LRC wrote:
Last few times I've had the car out it stalls when I go around a corner too hard. It just dies quietly and I can get it to turn over again but it will only run for a second. It kind of sputters and almost seems like it's struggling to get fuel. After a while it starts up again like nothing happened. I started thinking it might be the fuel pump or the strainer sock.

When I run the car easy (no sharp turns) it runs fine, no stalls. But lets face it this car was made to take sharp turns so......

Any input is appreciated. Thanks

C4's are known for fuel loss on cornering. If you have over a 1/4 tank you shouldnt have this problem. Below it, its common when cornering hard , especially autocrossing etc.

Both times that it happened I probably had about 1/4 or just short. But let's say that it happens on a full tank, like what Bogus described, could it be the sock? Car has 114K and the pump and related gear are likely original.

I guess it's time to renew AAA and test out the theory (that is when the ice and snow goes away). I can't wait to move back to South Florida.

Thanks for the info.

92LRC wrote:
Last few times I've had the car out it stalls when I go around a corner too hard. It just dies quietly and I can get it to turn over again but it will only run for a second. It kind of sputters and almost seems like it's struggling to get fuel. After a while it starts up again like nothing happened. I started thinking it might be the fuel pump or the strainer sock.

When I run the car easy (no sharp turns) it runs fine, no stalls. But lets face it this car was made to take sharp turns so......

Any input is appreciated. Thanks

CentralCoaster wrote:
I know there's lots of urban myths about this, but my research on his speeding tickets was that you have to be served. And it is not worth the jurisdiction's time to locate and serve you if you are out of state. They send tickets out and most people just pay anyways out of fear, so they don't need to chase down the small % that know better.

Now, being as this will go to an in-state registered owner, changes things. He would either be asked to pay the ticket, or indicate who is driving if it isn't him. I don't believe he's obligated to disclose who it is though. Obviously, if you don't want to get him involved or ask him to do something he's not comfortable with, then just have him ID you and wait for it to show up in the mail and decide then.

Maybe you should borrow my car, I'll never rat you out, I promise!

CentralCoaster wrote:
"If it happened in San Diego, there's a number you can call: (619) 533-3126. -Ask for photo enforcement and tell them you want to know if you got a ticket. They can look up the video if you have the date/time/location."

CentralCoaster wrote:
What integrity is there in paying a camera $300 to take photos of you? If he receives the ticket, he says it isn't him, and he isn't liable for anything.

CentralCoaster wrote:
Wait... steve you're out of state.

If you get one don't pay it. You never received the ticket. They won't serve you in Hawaii, and you didn't commit the crime until a peace officer serves you.

CentralCoaster wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:

I bet that is what happened. As I completely stopped at the line at a slight angle.

Oh crap that means you entered the intersection! You baby killer! What streets?

Matatk wrote:
Some of the cameras work on the premise that they "assume" you are going to run the light - they detect this either by motion or sensors in the lane...then they preemptively take the photo just in case. It doesn't necessarily mean you'll get a ticket.

BillH wrote:
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PLRX wrote:
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biggrizzly wrote:
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PLRX wrote:
Yes, There is a little piece of the hood's corner missing. While I was building the engine, the hood got caught up with the garage door.

Doesn't that suck! I scratched the crap out of mine the same way.

Oh yes, I know the neighbors didn't appreciate my reaction.

The bad part about is that I looked at it every-time I walk by it.

Yea, that does suck. I have a mark on my hood (from something else) that I look at every time too.

I really lucked out, I had put the white styrofoam insulation in my garage door panels. I had the door open when I first did this. Jacked the hood points 3/8ths of an inch into the styrofoam.

I'll bet we're not the only C4 owners who've done this.

bogus wrote:
the click is caused mostly by rust on the splines.

I had a creaky bearing, and I simply sprayed some PB Blaster into the splines and the creak went away!

I don't see any harm in cleaning up the surfaces... It sure can't hurt. I would use scotch brite pads, or, a fine sanding disk on a dremel.

CentralCoaster wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
Teflon is a unique material. I dont know how dirt and crap can get in there after being torqued, but... you never know.
Its not like a C4 creaking and cracking isnt normal. What would we do if it were quite.

The washers are steel. The coating may be teflon but it looks like paint, is thin like paint, and comes off like paint.

Stick your frying pan in vise between two pieces of flat steel and see how it holds up.

Matatk wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
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Matatk wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
CC, Thanks for the tips. I will antizieze the washers, and get some cotter pins.
I may try not removing the half shafts to do the bearings. I know you can. Just patience.

I had the same question about antiseize when I did mine. I originally put it on there thinking it was a good idea, but on the advice of PeteK I took them off and cleaned the antiseize off. He told me that attracts more dirt and wears them out faster. Made sense so I took his advice.

Matthew

HMM?

Maybe I wasn't 100% clear. This refers specifically to the teflon washers. Pete told me not to put antiseize on the teflon washers, so I wiped off what I had already put on.

Matthew

CentralCoaster wrote:
It was the only way I could keep it from clicking. Moisture gets in and corrosion occurs on the load surfaces, sticking them together. And I'm not in Hawaii.

Steve, do one side only and report back in 6 months, lol.

Matatk wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
CC, Thanks for the tips. I will antizieze the washers, and get some cotter pins.
I may try not removing the half shafts to do the bearings. I know you can. Just patience.

I had the same question about antiseize when I did mine. I originally put it on there thinking it was a good idea, but on the advice of PeteK I took them off and cleaned the antiseize off. He told me that attracts more dirt and wears them out faster. Made sense so I took his advice.

Matthew