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This is correct, the abs computer starts to interfere when it senses different wheel speeds when rolling, slowing down or applying the brakes.
If the total tire/wheel hight is different (more then 5%) between front and back, you get into trouble.
You can have 15 inch in front or rear, and 20 in front or rear, but as said before, then you need different aspect ratios (80´s 70´s 60´s 50´s and so on) so you will end up with the same height front and rear...

At least on the C4´s.

Other cars/makes may have their abs computers programmed with different heights front and rear.
In that case they still have to end up with the same differences in height as the originals front and rear.

For 90-96 coupe; might be similar to other years.
Open hatch, disconnect neg. bat. cable.
Remove rear interior cover, and loosen left rear interior cover.
Remove left cargo cover guide rail and clip.
Remove left rear speaker cover, loosen carpet on left rear side.
Now you should be able to have access to the antenna lead cable that is hidden behind the harness that goes there, loosen connector.
Remove both relay connectors near the center of the car, green, white and grey wires and some more.
Loosen left rear wheel bolts, lift car, remove left rear wheel.
Remove inner wheel well, secure other side of car so it won´t roll off the jack.
Now you can gain access to the antenna, loosen two bolts (10 mm) under it, and the ground strap.
On the upper side there is also one screw you must remove.
Now you reach all the way up behind the antenna mount to pry out a large rubber grommet with the wiring and the antenna cable.
There you have it, 1 piece of corvette antenna.
Reason I do this write up, is I believe you get a better result trying to replace the mast.
While replacing the mast, put in some new grease (while you´re in there).

And, what I did "while you´re in there", was to remove the motor housing, spray the brushes with some contact cleaner and wiggle them around, so they move freely again.
Then you don´t have to go through the hassle again when your antenna decides to do a no go similar to "I don´t hear the antenna motor but the relay is OK".

Do whatever you wish with this info...

Here comes a funny question: Is the dizzy mounted 180 degrees wrong?

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And you are... Where in the world?
I´m also from outside the US, but maybe if you are outside the US and have different regulations regarding the brake lights.
If imported by a dealer, they may have changed it before selling it.

Netherlands, Germany, Sweden, pretty much all of Europe have the same rules for brake lights and they are a bit different from US rules.

Well guys, I found the problem and it wasn´t in the book.
At least not where I would expect it.
And that is in the electrical supplement that came with the big book.

Here goes, I tested again following the chart in the second FSM.
Chart 2, disconnect conn. at mirror assembly, then you should connect a test light to ground and terminal B, then A and C together and so on.
The thing is, the wires at the conn. at the mirror assembly (6) are all black...
So, now I tested for resistance between the colored wires (at the switch, purple/white, light green and white IIRC) that are pointed out in the chart and any of the black wires at the mirror assembly conn.
Two out of three at the connector showed resistance when connected with the wires at the switch.
Purple/white was one of them, followed the purple/white wire and came to what probably is a junction where wires go to the right side mirror.
Disconnected it and voila, found it to be corroded in there, cleaned up sprayed all connectors in that door with some spray for electric parts and connectors (I´m here in Europe, they probably don´t sell the same brand in the US and I got it cheap a few years ago).

And both my right and left mirrors are working again.

Copied from my reply at another forum.

By the way I got my rear defogger fixed as well, it wasn´t working either and turned out to be the left (ground) wire had lost it´s connecton somehow.

Has one ever measured how much space there is in the spare tire holder, you might be able to fit a wider tire and rim in there.
Not original, but maybe it´s easier to find a 175 tire if it fits in there.
Not sure about the size of the rim, but maybe it fits a wider tire than a 155.
Just a thought.

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Thanks, but the mirror itself is OK, the housing, the glass, the trunion wich holds the glass, even the mirror assembly with the motors in it work as I tested them with battery power.
As I mentioned before, I think I might have tested at the switch instead of at the motor assembly connector.

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Sorry for the late response, having some problems with receiving mails, so I don´t see any responses to my post.

Yes, it´s working, at least the right side.
I went through the TS chart in the FSM.
But I´ve been thinking if I might have checked it incorrectly.
One of the last checks in the chart said I should check if testlight lights up when testing one or two circuits (don´t recall wich), but I checked from the switch, I might have checked it from the wires coming out from the mirror assembly.

Problem is that you cannot see wich wire is what, since they are all black as far as I can see.

I´ll just have to identify each wire first and go from there.

Weather isn´t that good here now, so I´ll try later on in the week or weekend.

Hi there, did anyone ever open up the motor housing of a side mirror?
Mine stopped working on the left side, and I have checked the TS list in the supplementary FSM.
I came to the point where it says; change out motor assembly of the mirror.
Well, I guess if that one is broken, I could just as well open it up to see what´s in there.
Two motors with gears, and each motor has its capacitor/resistor of some kind, rated at 10K, I guess ohms and 100 volt.
Now when I apply direct battery power to either of them, they work... hmmm.
Something I missed, or?
Logic tells me now, there must be an open somewhere, I didn´t find it though.
If it isn´t an open somewhere, then it must be one of those caps/rests.
Funny only that both up/down and side movement stopped.
That would mean both caps/rests went out at the same time.

Thank you very much if someone can shed some light on this one.
I posted on another forum as well, but never got a response.

BTW, it´s a 91, and both left and right mirror heaters work.

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Hm, wouldn´t it be enough with only a new tire, you don´t have to buy the whole thing new, would ya...?

Same here, some orders arrived well and correct, but once I had ordered two rear brake rotors for my 91, guess what I got home.
Two rear brake rotors for an 84-87 vette, in plastic pouch labeled with their article number for the 88-96 rear rotors, wich came in a box with the same article number for the 88-96 rear rotors.
Since I live in Sweden there was no way of sending them back (shipping costs for me), but luckily I found someone here in Sweden who was restoring his 84.
He took them of my hands for the same price I bought them for plus a part of the shipping costs.
So, it´s pretty risky when you´re living outside the States and order stuff from Ecklers.
Ordered from other vendors (not only corvette related) without any problems.

Cool, I just checked mine because I was surprised about the brightness of mine in my 91.
Mine are the replaceable low/high rated 55/100.
I live in Sweden and drive it daily, had it since 2005 and haven´t had any problems with mine.
I don´t see any signs on the wiring indicating they get to hot.
OTOH I don´t use them more than 5 min. tops before I can switch to low due to upcoming traffic.
Mine was moved to Sweden in 1995 or so.
The previous owner could have changed them to European style, if they did and changed out the wiring, then they did a damn good job since it doesn´t show anywhere.
Especially here in Sweden there aren´t many that know how to do vette´s correctly.

100/55 aren´t allowed for street use here in Sweden or for that matter in Europe, but I take my chances.

60/55 is for standard but up to 130/90 is available.

But low beams at 90 watts might be a little bit to much of the cake.

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Will do. I didn´t know the solenoid replaced the switch. Have I learned something as well

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That is if the ´91 EGR has a switch, or were you not referring to that. I have a ´91 and mine does not have the switch, the earlier model years had the switch.

It´s ECM controlled.

This is from my FSM.

EGR circuit description, brief,

With the ign. "ON" engine stopped, the EGR solenoid is de-energized and by grounding the diagnostic "test" terminal, the solenoid is energized.

The ECM will check EGR operation when:

*Vehicle speed is above 30 MPH,
*Manifold absolute pressure is between 15 kPa and 70 kPa,
*TPS is between 8% and 30%,
*No more than .4% change in TPS.

How is the O2 and the fuel pump relay? Could be a bad electrical connection somewhere.