I pulled the fuel pump from the tank. It's a Walbro GSS-340 model. A quick search led me to this Lingenfelter site.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merch ... -GSS340&Category_Code=C75

The description:
"Walbro GSS340 EFI fuel pump
Description:

centrally located 22 mm inlet

internal fuel pressure check valve

internal pressure relief valve
in tank style pump

255 LPH pump (rated at 43 psi and 13.5 volts)

Can be used with the following wiring harnesses (not included):

94-615 (Universal wire harness with Walbro GSS pump connector one end)
94-668 (Walbro GSS pump connector to GM style connector)

This Pump is not the pump used in the LPE C5 fuel pump PN LN0065. It is not compatible as a replacement for the C5 Corvette."

That last part is cause for concern. Looks like I'm on the phone next week to Rock Valley. They need to explain to me why exactly I have a pump that is not compatible with my C5 LS1!!

It may be that since my project is a non-stock hot rod, they assumed the EVAP would not be made functional. I talked to them this week and they said most people just run a hose out the back of the vehicle for venting. That seems like a smelly way to do it. I'll post the outcome of the call. Thanks for the help.

The fuel pump came with the tank from Rock Valley, and it's for LS engines. I'm going to remove the pump and see if any FTPS is attached. Will get back here when I know. Thanks.

PCM #12200411. It is for 2002 Corvettes, T/A, IROC, and trucks.

My project is powered by a 1999 LS1 and I want to install the complete EVAP system. I have the FSM for '99, and it says there is a "Fuel Tank Vent Valve". Other sources call this the "Evap Cannister Vent Solenoid".

Looking online at various GM parts sites, none of them list this part. I assume the part vents the fuel tank when re-filling, but I'm not sure - any help on this is appreciated.

I already have the purge solenoid, mounted on the left side of the engine, above the cylinder head. I will buy the Evap Cannister and plumb the lines with stainless.

FSM says the PCM uses the input from the fuel tank pressure sensor to open and close both the vent and purge solenoids - so I probably need this sensor as well.

My project has a '57 Corvette body and fuel tank. There is one vent tube on the tank, and I assume this is connected to the purge side of the system. But where does the vent solenoid go?

If anyone has information on the best ways to proceed, and where to source parts, I appreciate it.

My fault, it looks like the carrier you got back from the shop is a D44, but it looks different in earlier pics.

The case (carrier) you have is a Dana 36. The D44 only has two top bolts and was installed on manual cars only. It's possible that this shop inserted a thick ring gear, which can only be used on the Series 2 carriers. Series 2 carriers for D36's came with 2.59 ratio and on coupes. The 3.07 ratio was for convertible automatics.

If your original ratio was 3.07, thick ring gear sets will not fit - so this butthead shaved the gear and possibly the carrier wall.

This info is from the 1995 FSM, but if any other guru has information, please chime in.

Are you going to rebuild it yourself? If you use the info I sent you and you still have questions, post here so all can see, or email/call.

As said before by another guru, it just takes a little time to rebuild these Dana's. I hope you take down this lyin' POS - no wonder people don't trust repair places anymore. That's why I sold my two locations years ago - I kept getting lumped in with the cheaters. Best of luck.

That is pathetic!. Messy AND rusty. They should be out of business.

Also be aware that the angles of both tranny shaft yoke and pinion yoke need to be identical for best operation. From there, the other guru posts apply as well.

Welcome Larry! Your correct, this is the most knowledgeable site for C4's. Good luck and keep us posted.

Agreed. One important thing you can do instead of pressing new bearings on and off is to use your old set of bearings as "setup" bearings. Hone out the center bearing rings so they slip on and off the carrier (FSM calls this the case). Do the same for your inner pinion bearing. Those inner pinion shims adjust pinion depth for good gear patterns. Setup bearings are the way to go.

Looks like you have a Dana 44. I rebuilt my Dana 36 a little while ago - it's not difficult. Since you already have a shop press, that's the big tool for this job.

I think CC did this too, but not sure. Anyway, you also need a dial indicator, digital caliper, snap-ring pliers, bearing splitter, and large sockets. I think $300-$350 is about right for tools. Then you have the cost of the gears, and I would recommend you buy a master rebuild kit as well. While you're in there you may as well replace all bearings and seals.

There are two chapters in my book that detail this procedure completely. Send me a PM and I'll email you the chapters - just to help out a fellow guru. But if you don't want to tackle this, no big deal.

As bogus said though, be prepared to spend time fitting and re-fitting the shims for proper setup. PM me if you want the chapters.

Steve M.

Something had to be jacking that pad around is a radical way. I believe you found the culprit. Good work.

Definitely check the wear of the pads and contact patch on the rotor in the next 50-100 miles. I wouldn't go any longer than that before doing an extensive check.

The great brake mystery is solved!

On fire? Yes, that would heat up the aluminum caliper nicely and could cause the spread. If one side heated up from the e-brake, the other side did too, just not to the point of catching fire.

Sorry to bring the bad news. Maybe other Gurus have better advice. Mine is to replace calipers.

You might also check to see if your outer pad is completely seated in the bracket. The hairpin spring should protrude through the caliper opening. Pic attached.

If it's your outside pad that's wearing incorrectly, it may also be your slide pins. Did you say you disassembled the caliper and greased them?

Attach file:

---

  Guru_rear left caliper_top.jpg (312.21 KB)

Sorry Steve, I looked at mine (off the car, actually not installed yet), and the inner pad's wear tab is at the rear of the caliper when on the car. For left and right calipers, that's the only way the pads fit.

So the wear tab is closest to the e-brake lever (with spring). My brakes are from a 1995.

The picture here shows where taper is measured, in between the pads when they are installed. Measure both left and right. The difference should not be more than 0.15mm. But since you have driven on your pads, they may have already worn enough to make the margin bigger.

CC may be correct in that the pad surface may not be engineered to contact the entire rotor, BUT when I removed the old pads and rotors, a complete contact patch was evident.

My pads are Raybestos and model specific. Hawk should be the same though.

Hope this helps,

Steve M.

Attach file:

---

  Guru_rear caliper_left.jpg (288.11 KB)

Use a caliper to measure between the friction surfaces of the pads. This shows any taper to the pads. Your taper looks pretty radical from top to botton of the pad surface.

By top to bottom I mean from the caliper valley to the open side.

The explanation for this seems to be something other than the taper of the pads, but again, it's something you can eliminate.

This may be grasping at straws, but have you checked to make sure each caliper has correct inner and outer pads?

The inner pads should have the wear tab indicator on them. And the tab should be closest to the abutment bracket (holds the e-brake cable).

Also measure the pads when installed for parallel. Measure one side then the other. The difference should be no more than 0.15mm. Then measure top to bottom. This seems like where your problem may be.

The picture of your wear says it's probably something other than mis-installed inner and outer pads - but at least you'll eliminate this possibility. Just trying to help.

I used to recommend to customers that new rotors be cut, but only with a computerized on-the-car lathe. Two reasons, the quality of some rotors was sub-standard (especially Chinese produced ones), and secondly the on-car lathe matches the cut to the hub and its wobbles.

88-96 C4s have 3/16" double-walled brake lines. Not sure about the early C4s.

Understood. The pinion nut can be a real b&*($%. And if you thought removing it was hard, try tightening it to 200 lb-ft! If you do get it off, rent a large torque wrench to torque to spec. Buying one will spin your cap off.

Automatic coupes had the 2.59 gear ratio while convertibles came with 3.07. The donor car for my project was a droptop. The D36 with 2.59 ratio was RPO GM1. The 3.07 was RPO G44. Maybe the tags the other gurus are telling you about will have one of these RPO's.

But understand this information is for 1995 cars. I think they are the same for your 1990, but I'm not that up to date.

Here's a photo of the rear of a D36. One single bolt at top-middle. Good luck!

My avatar is a picture of my dog Tank. He had to be put down three years ago - I'm still not over it. Rotties are the best dogs in the world.

Attach file:

---

  Disassembly_Carrier_After cover removed_closeup.jpg (467.98 KB)

This might be a little late, but here goes anyway.

C4 automatics used the Dana 36 carrier, manuals used the D44. If yours has a single center bolt at the top of the carrier cover, it's a D36. D44's have two top bolts only.

The ratio and part numbers are stamped on the bottom of the carrier. The Dana part number is at top and GM number below it. Then the gear ratio below that alongside the ring and pinion teeth numbers. Bottom line is the build date.

I removed the pinion nut by heating with propane torch for about 45 seconds - BUT MY CARRIER DID NOT HAVE FLUID IN IT! So if a pry bar or impact can't loosen the nut, I'm out of options for you.

Attach file:

---

  Website_Diff Codes.jpg (46.93 KB)

Quote:

Good point Bill; besides, I don't have 6 guys who like me well enough to help. Not even a 12-pack of donuts or case of beer helps.

Steve

That's a LARGE hoist! Mine is pretty standard, but still does the jobs I need done.

Attach file:

---

  Assembly Prep_Hoist & Straps_right side view_truck in background.jpg (380.05 KB)


  Frame to Engine Stand Mounting_Side view of straps_frame off ground.jpg (341.61 KB)


  JAN10_Test Fit_Body on Rotisserie_core support beam missing.jpg (200.68 KB)


  JAN10_Test Fit_Dolly & Rotisserie side by side setup_with Hoist.jpg (208.74 KB)

Thanks Tom and Matthew! The Banski trailing arms and camber rods really were a snap to setup and install. I recommend them to anyone looking for better handling and strength from their C4.

I'm in the final stages of chassis mock-up right now. My website should be updated pretty soon too with new pages on the front and rear suspension restoration. I have the Dana 36 rebuilt with 3.54 r&p, and hopefully I can get that chapter completed soon as well. Busy, busy, busy...

I'll be putting up the Stars & Stripes this morning to display all weekend. That got me thinking about all the men and women who protect our country and way of life. Thank a soldier today if you see one.

Thanks Rich, your help is much appreciated.

Yes, the photo does show Banski Motorsports camber rod and trailing arm kits (box in lower right). This forum convinced me to upgrade from stock. Thanks!

These have sold.

Sorry Rich, just re-read your post. The carrier is 1995, and the C-beam is custom - but the stock bolts should fit it just fine. I think the 88-96 Dana 36 cars would be the correct candidates for picking the bolts, nuts, washers from. Thanks again.

These two long bolts connect the carrier to the C-Arm (or driveline support). The picture shows the arm fitted onto the carrier with two bolt holes open. If you can also get the nuts (2) and washers (4), that would be great!

You have a PM with my shipping details. Many thanks.

What in the world happened to your knee? OUCH!

Attach file:

---

  C-Arm Bolt Location.jpg (304.90 KB)

Thanks guys. I'll check with the GM dealer and with vette2vette.

What special coating does GM use? Would stainless work as well? Just asking...

Anyone know of a source for the torque arm bolts? These are the ones that fasten the arm to the carrier. The FSM calls the torque arm the "driveline support".

McMaster-Carr doesn't have metric long enough(220mm). Local sources are also too short. I show these to be M14 x 2.0 x 220. Any help will be appreciated.

Good point...the Bilstein website states these are 46mm monotube with the Sport (SP) setting. The Summit site lists them as HD - which looks to be incorrect. They obviously are not FX3 type.

Thanks for clarifying.

These are the HD type. According to Summitracing.com, they fit the Z51 suspension and are for lowered applications.

Quick note: I could not get the FOR SALE page to accept photos, so I'm putting them here.

- two new rear Bilstein's are available for purchase
- rear, 95-96 (stud connector on top)
- $75 each

Attach file:

---

  Bilstein.jpg (24.63 KB)


  Bilstein Shocks_Part No closeup_shock body.jpg (14.47 KB)

Those look great. Did you just clean 'em up, or do any sanding?

There is a fairly recent string on some steps of rebuilding the D36 - if you want to tackle it.

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... pe=&topic_id=7466&forum=1

I recently rebuilt mine, also 3.07, but I installed 3.54 gearing instead. It's not difficult, just time consuming. If you do, I would also suggest replacing all bearings, cups and seals. Timken makes the original bearings and I found their fitment to be perfect. Don't buy the other brands if possible - one of the differential cups was much thinner than the original when I bought it as a "package" from JT's.

You will also need setup bearings, probably new clutch packs, and specialty tools (dial indicator at minimum).

There are very experienced gurus here that know alot more about it than I do - just letting you know some FYIs I found.

Good work, it looks great!

Hey CC:
All I can tell you is the pivot bar did not slide out of the eyelet with the two large washers like yours did. The thin arms of the piece were bending way too much when pushing.
My 96 Grand Sport front end was from a salvage yard with a fair amount of corrosion. So cut me some slack...

I have a '96 front end on my restomod project. The bolts were inserted in the lower arms from inside-out (nuts on outside). The FSM for that year shows nuts on the inside.

I created a jig on my portable bench that held the upper arms stable while pressing out the bushings with a ball joint puller (see photo). This was before I bought a small 12T press for my project. This worked really well, and the upper arms were very stable - no bending.

To press in the new poly bushings, I used my new press. Just as another guru stated, use a bar or piece of pipe to prevent the upper arms from flexing too much under load.

And yes, I also believe the poly bushings are larger than OE because I had to slightly bevel the leading edge to get it started in the eyelet.

The lower bushings are easy to press out and in, with a shop press.

I'm writing a book on how to restore the late C4 chassis, it should be available by this summer.

Attach file:

---

  Assembly Prep_Control Arm_Upper_On jig_socket and ratchet attached.jpg (285.47 KB)

$200??? That's like stealing.

I have spoken with John by phone a few times and he is pure gold.

I replaced my clutch packs for the reasons you cite - bad grooves. But it took me at least two days off and on. Just goes to show you what experience does. But I know how much work there is, even after the carrier is removed, so it's amazing he only charged you about two hours labor (dealer rates).

BTW if anyone is thinking of putting 3.73 in the D36, go for 3.54 instead. John and Tom's Differentials both told me they could not find any manufacturer who makes 3.73s anymore. And if those guys can't find it, it doesn't exist. I bought 3.54 and I'm told it will be a much better gear set for the driving I will be doing.

Thanks jhammons - I have spoken with him, but not on this. I asked him about 3.73 R&P and if he had any. He said he needed two sets but his sources didn't have any. My research showed mfr's not making that ratio - maybe ever again. So I went with 3.54 instead.

What is made is the thick 3.73 gear set. But my carrier being a type 3 won't accept the thick sets. Anyway, I'll give him a call if the McMaster snap rings don't do the trick.

Thanks for all the help guys - this is what forums should be about.

Steve

Quote:

Thanks BillH.

I didn't like the heating option for the reason you stated. Thanks for the McMaster site too, good stuff.

My avatar picture was taken a few years ago at the Bondurant track in Phoenix. This was before Bob had Corvettes out there, just SVT Mustangs. It was a good time though.

Thanks Joe. The thickness I need is .050" or 1.27mm. The color is plain (uncolored). If you also have the blue, I'll buy those as well. Blues are .055" or 1.40mm.

I probably set up the backlash a little tight. Spec is .006-.009" and I'm right at .005". Probably why the old rings don't seat completely. So, I may have to tear is down again. Pinion depth and preload are both good, although I could use a little more preload. This is no time to cut corners, so I will tear it down and make adjustments.

Thanks again. I'm new to these type forums, so how do we proceed?

Anybody know a good source for stub axle snap rings? I have looked online and locally (Spicer reps) with no luck.

If not, has anyone tried to heat the old retainers to bring back in correct shape?

I did a gear swap and clutch pack replacement, but the snap rings unfortunately were twisted a little. Thanks, I know this forum will have someone of knowledge out there.

Still plugging away at it, yes. I recently finished the LSD rebuild: new clutch packs. The FSM says to use all these specialty tools from OTC/Kent-Moore, but anyone can do it with normal shop tools. Besides, those tools are crazy expensive.

I'm treating the carrier and batwing cover to a sanding and shining. My wife calls it "man jewelry"! It's probably overkill since I'm not a "build it then trailer it" kind of enthusiast. But hey, it's my project.

Once sanding a polishing are completed, I'll set up the new ring & pinion. I removed the old 3.07 and upgraded to 3.54. I tried to find 3.73, but nobody makes them anymore. I'm talking about the 3.73 thin gearset, not the thick. Since my carrier is a type 3, the thick gearset is not useable. Your buddy John and J&S still can't find 3.73 either.

This winter the chassis test fit will happen, along with the body stripping, repair, and paint prep. I have rear quarters that will be grafted in. These allow wider wheels and tires (about 1-1/2" each side). I've never done fiberglass work before - so it should be interesting.

My book is for newbies, like me, who are mechanically inclined, but have never tried any restoration or modification. It's focused on C4 chassis and C5 powertrain. And of course, my '57 body/interior. BTW, I just received new gauges from Classic Instruments - man, do they look great. I bought all new, except for the '57 speedo, which they completely overhauled to match.

If anyone would like to see pictures...let me know.

Quote:

One word...Budget.

Besides, where's the fun in buying a new unit?

Thanks guys for your help.

I received the clutch packs from JT's late yesterday. They are dead nuts on. The only difference is the plate retainers (pictured, stock on left). The new ones are longer but the retaining clips are the same dimension as the stockers.

Quote:

Another interesting thing is the part numbers. JT's website has 706962X. My invoice shows 707165X. And the package for the new packs has 701046X.

I called JT's and spoke with a guy who didn't have a clue why the part numbers are different. He said, "we just know them because they fit D35-ICA and other differentials". I asked him if JT's uses any interchange guide from Spicer, and he didn't know.

Just FYI...

Attach file:

---

  DSC00041.JPG (968.00 KB)

All three sources have the same part number: 706962X. I bought from Just Differentials for $60 + shipping. I'll let you know how they compare to my removed stock packs. Thanks again

Outstanding! Thanks for your help guys. I'll keep you posted on progress.