RestoMod57 wrote:
There is a fairly recent string on some steps of rebuilding the D36 - if you want to tackle it.

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... pe=&topic_id=7466&forum=1

I recently rebuilt mine, also 3.07, but I installed 3.54 gearing instead. It's not difficult, just time consuming. If you do, I would also suggest replacing all bearings, cups and seals. Timken makes the original bearings and I found their fitment to be perfect. Don't buy the other brands if possible - one of the differential cups was much thinner than the original when I bought it as a "package" from JT's.

You will also need setup bearings, probably new clutch packs, and specialty tools (dial indicator at minimum).

There are very experienced gurus here that know alot more about it than I do - just letting you know some FYIs I found.

Good work, it looks great!

pr0zac wrote:
awesome.. that is impressive. you are lucky it stayed together like it did. that is a fair amount of damage. lol

dan0617 wrote:
Yesterday's progress.....got the trailing arm bushings all installed and trailing arms back on car, then dropped the tranny pan and changed the filter.

PETEK....couple of questions please....

There was a fairly heavy amount of blackish, dark greyish sludge in the filter and some greyish sludge stuck to the magnet in the tranny pan. No chunks or filings stuck there, but it must have been metallic somewhat or it wouldn't have been stuck to the magnet. The fluid looked very good....still red, still smelled like new, no filings or discoloration or anything.

Is this fairly normal for a trans that has made a couple dozen mid to upper 10 second passes at the strip, probably 50 hard launches on the street, and about 3000 highway and street miles??? I bought the trans last winter and put it in, it has 1 season on it. Only problem I have noticed is that it acts like the governor is sticking a little when the trans fluid is cold, I'm now thinking because the filter was sludged up some. Have you torn apart a beefed up 700R4 or changed the filter in one after a season of racing? What do you find in the pan and filter if it is healthy? And what do you see if it is not healthy?

Some people say this is normal for a trans like this being used like this, and some are saying any metallic like substance is bad news. Again, no filings at all, just a grayish sludge stuck to the magnet and a blackish sludge in the filter.

PeteK wrote:
I use gm fluid and additive. A local guy does arca races and that is the fluid they found to be best.
Shocks are bilsteins.

Josh wrote:
Put some jack stands or something under the knuckles before you run the car. I chucked a U-joint once running the wheels with the suspension at full droop. Do something to level out the half shafts a bit.

jhammons01 wrote:
Most Differential (Dana 36/44) experts say to use 80/90w Gear oil and TWO bottles of additive.

So you've put a quart and half in there and how much additive??

The question that would bother me is this. if the thing takes a quart and a half and GM says ONE bottle of additive....then you've put a lube in there that has the additive......hypothetically you should have 1.5 bottle of additive........

So whether you buy into the now day experts say or what GM says.....you are halfway in the middle of both.

Listen, and if you hear the clicking from the Differential, you'll have your answer.

Josh wrote:
Put some jack stands or something under the knuckles before you run the car. I chucked a U-joint once running the wheels with the suspension at full droop. Do something to level out the half shafts a bit.