89Vette wrote:
Did you ever find a tuner Josh? I know the 89 tuning and could assist.

Matatk wrote:
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mistaben wrote:
I couldn't find one..

?? Did you look ??

There have been several suggestions in various posts on this and several other sites.

The two that come to mind are Mick, although he's very busy right now, and PCM4less. There are others out there, as well.

To Josh, you can use someone like PCM4less or tune it yourself if you have the desire to learn how.

Matthew

Woodstock wrote:
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How do you know if you're running rich or lean in open loop?

Common senses, spark plugs, exhaust gases or wideband O2.

New TP Version 5 has the "closed loop" checkbox on the bottom of "Show Data List Views". The old Version 4.x, which I still prefer, has it under "F" values.

flyboy wrote:
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joshwilson3 wrote:
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Matatk wrote:
I don't think you will be able to adjust blms in open loop either.

Are you running a heated o2 sensor? I had a problem with mine dropping in/out closed loop.

Matthew

How do you know if you're running rich or lean in open loop?

Matatk wrote:
I don't think you will be able to adjust blms in open loop either.

Are you running a heated o2 sensor? I had a problem with mine dropping in/out closed loop.

Matthew

CadillacTech wrote:
I'm still a fan of using star washers on ground wires. They will "bite" into both the grounding surface & the cable end. They also help to keep the cable or wire tight.

BillH wrote:
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josephf31 wrote:
I was gonna say Vaseline too but wasn't sure if anyone else besides me ever did that!

Yea, been doing it forever.

Connectons like this are what I did for a living for 20 years with AMP Inc., the largest connector manufactor in the world.

We sold a product for this but when I got a sample of it it looked and felt exactly like Vaso.

No Josh, Vasoline won't impede electrical flow.

The ground points- all I have is a 92 FSM, hopefully someone can tell you.

BTW, I've done this to my 92.

BillH wrote:
Certainly not dielectric grease, dielectric grease impedes the flow of electricity.

I use good ol Vasoline, been doing it for years and years.
I coat the battery terminals in it.
After cleaning frame ground points to shiny metal I put it on the frame and the ring terminal.

I've never had a corroded connection after doing this.

There are products out there for this but they are very close to Vasoline & why pay more?

All you're doing is to put a layer on the connection to keep oxygen away.

josephf31 wrote:
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joshwilson3 wrote:
I know it is recommended to unbolt and clean your ground wires as they can develop corrosion. Or dirt, etc. can disrupt the connection.

Just wondering if it would be good or not to put something like dielectric grease or something else on the ground wire where it bolts down to help prevent corrosion or a future faulty connection?

I wouldn't use anything, a good solid ground is vital.

crash wrote:
go with a new delphi. when you buy the other brand remans they take short cuts in rebuilding them. over the years as a auto machanic i used everything out there and found the new to be the answer. now on my personel vette i just bought a new delphi opti and delco water pump. i got a very good price on them because of being in the auto field. find someone whose a mechanic that can get you a deal.

bogus wrote:
You may want to call our newest Gold Sponsor, http://kandbcorvetteproducts.com/.

770-777-1031

They sell Delphi and Delco products.

WW7 wrote:
Its a crap shoot. I tried 3 different MAF sensors and couldn't find any that worked right..One was so bad it wouldn't even let the car start, one of the other ones made my car run so lean mseven told me not to drive it until we got another MAF sensor.The trouble is I don't think they even calibrate them..I ended up getting one from Blowerworks and having mseven use that in my tune..I have seen a few new Bosch sensors on ebay but they wanted way to much money for them...WW

JeffK wrote:

That really depends on how rushed you are. If you want to wait for the postman to bring you the chip then it's ok to do it that way. I started out doing it that way but it's so much easier to just spend the $80 and get the burner.

You need to buy the eprom adater to put the tuned chips in your ECM so if you were to decide to put it back to stock you would simply remove the adapter and rock on.

Oh, the disable CCM handshake is in the TTS program. I downloaded RT pro but didn't have much luck with it. I think Datamaster is a much more user friendly.

SpectatorRacing wrote:
Talk to Mick (mseven). In fact, he's tuning a friend's car tomorrow. We don't have the tune yet, but so far he's spent about 2 hours on the phone with me and I can't think of anyone I've met so far who has as much C4 knowledge as he does. Looking forward to meeting him in person tomorrow.

I have a PCMforless tune in my car now, and while I've been happy with it, after talking with Mick I'm pretty sure it'll run better after he gets his hands on it.

Plus, he's a Guru.

JeffK wrote:
I use TTS datamaster and had the same problem where it would kick on and off recording. There was a disable CCM handshake option and once I turned that off it worked like a champ. Mine's a 90, not sure if your 89 has a CCM though.

Mick is great to work with. He got mine running great with the Bosch III's and they were a lot quiter.

biggrizzly wrote:
Allstate Motor Club has helped me many times! Mine is unlimited towing! All C4 owners should have roadside assistance.

PeteK wrote:
Make sure that the tuner you use requires you to datalog.
Without data, they will be tossing a tune up, and hoping it works.
On my 406 combo, I am using forum member mseven.
He requires I datalog a certain way, then e-mail him the file. He reviews, and makes tweaks. This is repeated as many times as nescessary to get tune as close to perfect as possible.

screamin_conure wrote:
Hey Josh, you're still running a stock tune in your ECM, right?

Josh wrote:
FIC had a large supply of the older injectors a year or so ago. When I talked to him on the phone he said, "I have an entire pallet of the older ones." He might still have some kicking around.

That, IMO, would be the way to go. New injectors of the older design.

Steve40th wrote:
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joshwilson3 wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
Josh, I will pull a plug tomorrow and see how mine running. I retuned mine for the flow rate/constant Jon gave me when I ordered the injectors. My BLMs are fine, and didnt run lean with 43.5 psi at regulator with vacuum line off.

Did you check your BLM's before or after you did your tune? I saw on the other sets of injectors for sell that you are supposed to get the flow rates for the actual set of injectors you get when they run tests on them. But I didn't get any data on my injectors.

I'm gonna see what my BLM's do with the pressure at 55 with the FPR disconnected. Which puts it at a running pressure of 47.

What exactly is that 43.5 psi rating for on the injector? Is that a running pressure or the pressure with the FPR disconnected? Stock, my 89 had a running pressure of 34, and it was 41 with the FPR disconnected.

Yes, I checked my BLMS, the only issue I have really had was a standard split BLM issue with the LT1 and a big cam. I have hundreds of datalogs, and my car was tuned by a pcmforless and LT1tuning, for example.
The 43.5 psi with engine running an vacuum line disconnected is LT1. I cant remember the L98 pressure off hand. My injectors were Ford Red Tops at 30#'s, then I went to Bosch III 42#'s. The Fords have a constant of about 31 in your tune, and the Bosch are 42, because that is what they flow at 43.5 psi. And, Jon did/does give you flow data sheets on the injectors so you can change the constant accordingly for your injectors.
If your engine runs that lean, you just need to retune the chip.

Steve40th wrote:
Josh, I will pull a plug tomorrow and see how mine running. I retuned mine for the flow rate/constant Jon gave me when I ordered the injectors. My BLMs are fine, and didnt run lean with 43.5 psi at regulator with vacuum line off.

bogus wrote:
Is this for the L98 filter housing thing that has coolant pumped through it?

I don't know the spec... I tightened it a bit tighter than I would have an oil filter.

iCorvette wrote:
pull your plugs and tell me if it's lean, how does it drive?

Tech wrote:
Mine is just a hair line crack not wide enough to get a finger nail wedged into but it does leak. Warning up the panel before I bond it to minimize the gap is probably a great idea.
Tech

Tech wrote:
I also have a crack and have been doing some research into acrylic repairs. Other fields deal with cracks all the time. racing, aircraft and marine. They drill the small hole at the end of the crack and then use weld on 3 or 4 to wick into the crack and repair it. Both 3 and 4 are wicking /water thin. 3 is very fast but can cause a white haze. 4 is a little slower but doesn't haze. I couldn't find 4 at my local hardware store so I ebayed it and it should be here in a few days. If all goes well I should have a near perfect repair. I don't have much to loose someone clear coated it and it is totally crazed. A couple hours of sanding and I am back to acrylic. let the buffing begin!
Tech

klkordzi wrote:
My top was the OEM one. I did notice air bubbles in the surface of the glue when it dried. The glue I used was very thick so any syringe you use would have to be able to handle that. I also laid a strip of acrylic across the bottom side of top where the crack, hoping this would keep the crack from reforming.

CentralCoaster wrote:
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Update, Dennys arent anti-galvanic. But they say even in their High Salt environment, they never see corrosion.
I dont think it will be harmful. I can always put a coating of some of the stuff we use on ships/subs etc to prevent rust/corrosion. Readily available products at West marine.

High salt with steel on steel is much different than high salt with steel on aluminum. Throw some antisieze on it at least.

jonszr1 wrote:
the denny kit is absolutly the best u joint you can put in a c4plus these u joints you can press the cups that go onto the rear diff and stub axles towards the center of the ujoint and you will hear a little click which locks them on so they wont fall off during install .

JeffK wrote:
At that point I would just buy a new one from someone but considering that the rebuild service is only $60 I will give it a shot and see how it goes.

Apparently they only hold your core charge if the one you send is not rebuildable and they have to replace it with one that they have on the shelf.

JeffK wrote:
Well, I gave in and paid the $105 for the rebuid service from Rock auto. The core was $45 which still doesn't make sense to me but what can I do?

I will post the results for future reference.

klkordzi wrote:
I got an acrylic glue called Weld-on from the Engineerguy.com. Then sanded and polished it. I haven't driven it much to see if it will ultimately hold up. I also cat a sliver of acrylic to take up some of the space in the crack.

JeffK wrote:
Quote:

joshwilson3 wrote:
Don't know what year you have. But the 89-91 masters both new and rebuilt are hard to find.

Damn, you're not kidding! I can't find anyone that has one in stock.

I can get the 92 - later easily and actually a little cheaper.

I don't know what to do...

JeffK wrote:
Well, Rockauto called me today to let me know that the Bendix unit that I had ordered was out of stock. The only other affordable option they have is the rebuild service through A-1 Cardone.