Thats lucky mate, but i bet you wish you looked under the car first eh?

Especially on cars like coupes, hardtops and convertibles.

Sounds like you need to bleed them. If you have air in your brake fluid you will have longer pedal travel. It could be the booster, but that's less likely.

It should be easy to tell if you have the C5 brakes, post a picture of your calipers. Any number of us can tell you what it is.

I take it you bought the car with them already replaced?

It is supposed to be either under the plastic tray in the storage bin behind the passenger or inside the spare. I've seen them in both places.

BTW Is your tire tool behind the driver's seat

No offense, but your car (if stock) isn't going to do 13.5 easily, maybe not until you get a little more wheel time.

Only money/time justified being spent on the car for you at this point is in making sure it's running properly and safe, which applies whether you're racing it or just letting your wife drive it to work.

If it is for show or just piece of mind, that is one thing. If it is for competition, make sure it meets or exceeds the rules/specification of the governing body whose rules you will be racing under, before you commit your hard earned.

RACE ON!!!

Im sure you did this allready, but with the key to ON and the engine not running, Datamaster connected and running, you should be able to see what voltage and percentage youre getting then.

Guess I was lucky, Mine ran fine without any adjustments. The OP still hasn't answered the question as to whether or not the TB blades are opening fully.

Probably need to adjust the TPS. Aftermarket TB?

with these bugs, you need to invest in the Helm Manual. It's about $120.00, and will save you a ton.

hm... the throttle cable could be out of wack... or the TPS is worn.

I need to get my 92 helm out to help you with that other code, so I will get it out to check these numbers.

AllData is a tool used by shops. it's designed to allow independants to get factory support data. It's expensive as hell.

If you got 3 dashes in 9.7, you cleared it. If you leave the paperclip in and turn the key off, then back on. You should see C-12 first, then it will cycle thru 1.0, 4.0 and 9.0, and should show 3 dashes at each one.

I don't think starting the car is necessary for this particular problem.
Unhooking the battery probably won't change anything but it's worth a shot.

Yep, youve gotta do all that, and id have to say, if the codes were cleared, when the vehicle is started the MIL lamps should all go out, including the ABS and ASR lamps until you reach the 3mph test, if they are not going out, id say youve got some sort of a short to ground in there, or other electrical issue.

On the 92, almost everything will show up as an "H" except tha C12 (no codes). I think this happens when you shut off the key and any codes get stored.

In module 9, the H63 is Valve Solenoid Relay Fault ( Valve Solenoid Circuit Error on Andy's sheet, same thing).
Yep, looks like that will trigger the ASR/ABS lites.
When the ign is on, this realy provides voltage to activete the solenoids and provides a ground path for the "service abs" lamp.
Service ABS and service ASR lites will be on and a code 63 will be set when the Valve Solenoid relay voltage falls to less that 5 volts.

I'd first try and reset that code, go to 9.7 to reset, and see if it comes back and the lites go out.

If not, BURN the Chilton. The diagnosis is on page 5E1-82 in the real manual.

BTW, I want your wheels for my Black Rose.

I haven't got into this yet, my car has been great and hasn't even shown a check engine light yet. But, (on an '89) what software and cable would be best for me should I want to check for codes and look to see if i'm getting any knock counts and such?? What all can I look at? I have pcmforless do the tune and I don't think I want to get into making my own tunes, but it would be nice to see how well it is working and if I need to send it in for an adjustment or not.

Not trying to thread steal, just thought this info would be best added to this thread instead of having a whole separate one. Keeping good info on a subject gathered together somewhat.

I had one built from a schematic I found online.

If you're not electrically inclined I can send you mine...assuming I can find it. Mine's for an LT1 car, I think they were pinned a little differently back in the 80's. I know it will work with a '92 up to when they went OBD-II, in '95, right?

why buy one when you can build your own for a few bucks.

http://winaldl.joby.se/aldlcable.htm