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Cross Fire Injection. Method of fuel delivery in the L82 motor. The 1984 is the only C4 to use the L82. This is the same engine used in the 1982 C3. ...
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tjpreul a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
Columbia, MO
1103 Posts
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I finally fixed the vibration with the a/c, after it was realized there were missing brackets. As I was driving home the a/c stopped blowing cold air. Then a puff of smoke followed shortly after. When I opened the hood there were black bits, so I figured the compressor locked up and smoked the belt. Instead it was the a/c clutch. There is a ring of melted plastic from the center of it.

I have another compressor, so I will probably put it back on.
Posted on: 2010/8/7 14:25
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BillH Re: a/c saga continued...
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Sucks but at least you got home.

Have you ever tried to remove the clutch with everything connected (the 2 tubes that run down in front of the clutch)?
I need to pull mine one of these days.
Posted on: 2010/8/7 14:44
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X-FIRE Re: a/c saga continued...
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Ohio
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TJ,
With the problems you have had with your A/C maybe just delete it?...Well, Missouri in the summer time maybe not a good idea...LOL...But glad to hear you got the vibration fixed though..
Posted on: 2010/8/7 18:30
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Andrew Re: a/c saga continued...
2013 Memorial Day Car Show Winner!
Jefferson City, MO
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Well, at least it picked a cool time of year to lock up! Is that the new one you just put on?
Posted on: 2010/8/8 0:50
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tjpreul Re: a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
Columbia, MO
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I was less than two miles from home when this happened. I don't know if the clutch can be removed with the lines still in place. This was the newer one, so I don't know if I am going to change the clutch or the whole compressor.
Posted on: 2010/8/8 5:15
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Vegas wasn't built on winners.

'92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96.

Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC
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tjpreul Re: a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
Columbia, MO
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Its fixed (again). I replaced the entire clutch assembly from the old compressor. It was simple and you can do it with the lines in place. Of course it would of been easier if the lines were not in the way. The coil was fried, the bearing was bad and the clutch was melted. I'm not sure which one happened first, but the mating surface of the clutch was not in good shape.
Posted on: 2010/8/9 0:46
_________________
Vegas wasn't built on winners.

'92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96.

Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC
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BillH Re: a/c saga continued...
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Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Its fixed (again). I replaced the entire clutch assembly from the old compressor. It was simple and you can do it with the lines in place. Of course it would of been easier if the lines were not in the way. The coil was fried, the bearing was bad and the clutch was melted. I'm not sure which one happened first, but the mating surface of the clutch was not in good shape.


Good that it's fixed.
And good to know that the clutch will come off w/o pulling the lines. I have to pull mine, it squeals on off idle throttle blip but works fine above idle.

I searched an a/c forum quite a while ago. You can check the gap on the clutch plates with a feeler gauge. IIRC, it's supposed to be around 0.020 - 0.022. Mine's wider than that. Should be able to reduce the gap by removing a shim, (supposedly).
Posted on: 2010/8/9 13:24
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tjpreul Re: a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
Columbia, MO
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Quote:

BillH wrote:

I searched an a/c forum quite a while ago. You can check the gap on the clutch plates with a feeler gauge. IIRC, it's supposed to be around 0.020 - 0.022. Mine's wider than that. Should be able to reduce the gap by removing a shim, (supposedly).


I don't have a set of gauges at home, so I was going to check it tonight. I was thinking it was .005-.008. To do this take the front bolt out (10mm) and you can pull the plate off by hand. There are shims (washers) between the shaft and plate.
Posted on: 2010/8/9 13:30
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BillH Re: a/c saga continued...
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Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Quote:

BillH wrote:

I searched an a/c forum quite a while ago. You can check the gap on the clutch plates with a feeler gauge. IIRC, it's supposed to be around 0.020 - 0.022. Mine's wider than that. Should be able to reduce the gap by removing a shim, (supposedly).


I don't have a set of gauges at home, so I was going to check it tonight. I was thinking it was .005-.008. To do this take the front bolt out (10mm) and you can pull the plate off by hand. There are shims (washers) between the shaft and plate.


5-8 is very possible, the .020 may be where I'm at now, it's been a while.
I'll take a peek at the FSM.
Posted on: 2010/8/9 13:38
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BillH Re: a/c saga continued...
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Looks like the clearence between the pressure plate & rotor should be 0.020 +0.006.
Page 1D-3

Gotta put this on my winter"to do" list.
Posted on: 2010/8/9 13:46
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tjpreul Re: a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
Columbia, MO
1103 Posts
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Looks like the clearence between the pressure plate & rotor should be 0.020 +0.006.
Page 1D-3

Gotta put this on my winter"to do" list.


I used a phone a friend. I was thinking the .5mm starting point, which puts you at the .014-.026.
Posted on: 2010/8/9 15:03
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BillH Re: a/c saga continued...
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Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Quote:

BillH wrote:
Looks like the clearence between the pressure plate & rotor should be 0.020 +0.006.
Page 1D-3

Gotta put this on my winter"to do" list.


I used a phone a friend. I was thinking the .5mm starting point, which puts you at the .014-.026.


Exactly, the spec in mm is 0.5 plus/minus 0.15mm
Posted on: 2010/8/9 15:11
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1Fast04Vert Re: a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
The hills of N. Georgia
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Usually the only reason a clutch burns up is because the comprssor is starting to lock up. Then the heat from the clutch also wipes out the front seal on the compressor. Maybe you will be lucky, hope so.
Posted on: 2010/8/9 15:37
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tjpreul Re: a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
Columbia, MO
1103 Posts
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Quote:

95vette wrote:
Usually the only reason a clutch burns up is because the comprssor is starting to lock up. Then the heat from the clutch also wipes out the front seal on the compressor. Maybe you will be lucky, hope so.


I'm hoping the coil was weak, and wasn't pulling the plate in tight enough. It was two miles to my house, and it gave up halfway. I put about 40mi on after I replaced it. If it does fail I still have the other compressor, which is good.
Posted on: 2010/8/9 18:13
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1Fast04Vert Re: a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
The hills of N. Georgia
2424 Posts
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Quote:

tjpreul wrote:
Quote:

95vette wrote:
Usually the only reason a clutch burns up is because the comprssor is starting to lock up. Then the heat from the clutch also wipes out the front seal on the compressor. Maybe you will be lucky, hope so.


I'm hoping the coil was weak, and wasn't pulling the plate in tight enough. It was two miles to my house, and it gave up halfway. I put about 40mi on after I replaced it. If it does fail I still have the other compressor, which is good.


Check the voltage to the clutch. Other than a compressor failure low voltage to the clutch is about the only other reason a clutch would burn up (usually that is). If low at the clutch check both sides of the binary switch next.
Posted on: 2010/8/9 18:29
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tjpreul Re: a/c saga continued...
Elite Guru
Columbia, MO
1103 Posts
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2008/9/16 18:12



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I found that I had a bad relay to the radiator fan too (thanks to BillH). I am hoping the combination of this (constantly cycling), and a poor clutch surface created the heat. Or maybe the coil just gave out. I did drive the car to work today. When I arrived I was able to touch the clutch, and I could still turn it. I'll post pics of the clutch. There was about 1/2" of mating surface.
Posted on: 2010/8/11 13:23
_________________
Vegas wasn't built on winners.

'92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96.

Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC
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