Mine is obviously not working (the interior lights stay on) and the research I have done leaves me with a question. Do I just replace the circuit board or the whole assembly and where is it located? Thanks.

refresh my memory... year?

First thing to check is the switches on the door. Also, do a search in the C4 tech forum, I think this was covered before.

I didn't take the time to look at my FSM, but, isn't there a relay in this circuit? I know lots of cars have a relay for the courtesy lights. And I have had these relays stick and keep the lights on until I pulled the fuse.

Joel

1984. Door switches are good. ALL the interior lights stay on so my logic is pointing towards that Interior light delay timer.

Frank - how do you know the door switches are good? I had this problem in my dad's 79. The door switches were not fully closing because the rubber pads on the door had fallen off. I shimmed the switches with washers to make the plungers fully seat.

What testing did you do to determine the door plunger switches are functioning properly?

Quote:
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_in ... th=1940&products_id=26953

or a unit to bypass the timer

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_in ... th=1940&products_id=26954

or you can save $$$ and do the backyard fix

"If the Courtesy Lamp Delay timer is bad, you can buy a replacement or bypass it.
To bypass it at the Courtesy Lamp Delay timer connector, you cut the white wire at Pin A and cut the two white wires at Pin D.
Solder the three white wires together.
This will cause the courtesy lights to come on when the doors are opened and go out when the doors are closed.
There will be no delay time out for the courtesy lights."

Quote:

taped to the harness behind the DIC



For location reference

Honestly I "assumed" that since there was no wiggle in them and they seemed solid that they were good. Thanks for the prompt. I am going to remove them and put a meter on and run an Ohms test.

Wow. Great illustration and picture. Now, keeping in mind there is no such thing as a dumb question... Whats a DIC?

DIC= driver information center. It's in the center of the dash with your distance switches, etc and idiot lights.

One test for the door switches is press them all the way and hold it there 30 seconds to see if the lights go out. Remember if both sides are out of adjustment you will have to find a way to compress them both at the same time.

When I pulled the door light switch out I was a bit surprised.If you look close enough you can see three brass prongs that make contact with a brass shaft which is connected to the button end of the switch. No muss no fuss and no shimming required. The brass does look a little dirty so it might be as simple as cleaning it up. If that doesn't work then I have to figure out how to test it. I can do an Ohms test to see if the brass makes contact on all three points but beyond that ... Any ideas?

Attach file:

---

  march2013 018.jpg (138.26 KB)

The OHM test is all you can do unless you see a lot of resistance, then something's dirty inside.

There is really nothing to test on the switch. Clean it, put it back in, and see if the light goes out when compressed. All the switch does is ground the circuit for the light to turn on.

A word of caution to those who may do this in the future. After you remove the nut and start to remove the switch from the door be extra careful to pull it straight out and do it SLOWLY. As I was doing this the wiring connector separated and fell back into the door jam and disappeared. Its only a 1/4" hole so you can't see it much less get at it. Been fishing for it near 4 hours now-no luck.

After cleaning the switch up it was simple to test. Ohm across the connectors and then push the switch open and watch the meter drop to zero.

Just pull the kick panel and the wires will be easy to reach, then feed back thru the hinge pillar hole.

Joel

Thanks Joel. There is hope....