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jim420 | 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Guru
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Well first off let me say hi to all I am new to the forums and have a couple of questions.......I am about to pull the engine and trans from a 88 its the basic 350 tpi pushrod motor with the th 700 trans. I have opted to pull the trans to so I can give it a once over as well. I am not new to engine and trans swapping and rebuilding but this is my first vet just wondering if there are any tricks or tips any one can offer....I have stripped the motor down to the block in frame and removed all the accessories, pulleys, rad and hood i have also disconnected all trans line and wiring linkages etc i noticed a long support arm running the length of the drive shaft connects trans to third member do i need to completely remove this or just un bolt it from rear of trans? any thing else i have missed please let me know.....thank Jim
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Posted on: 2008/7/20 14:42
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Woodstock | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Senior Guru
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Probably a good idea to remove the C-beam. A bit of advice, remove the windshield wiper motor, very fragile piece. You wouldn't be the first to replace it after an engine pull.
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Posted on: 2008/7/20 16:26
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91 convertible |
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jim420 | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
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oh yeah wiper motor is out already one of the first things to come out thanks for the tip tho
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Posted on: 2008/7/20 16:32
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Matatk | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Webmaster
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I have never pulled the motor, so I can tell you what I have heard, only. It's probably easier to remove it without the trans, but a lot of guys do it with it still attached. Good idea to remove all the accessories and the wiper motor, as stated. The hood does not need to be removed.
When reinstalling, put the heads and manifold on first, it's easier to torque the bolts that way. Take some pics and post 'em up. Good luck, Matthew |
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Posted on: 2008/7/20 18:33
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2002 EBM convertible, Magnusson supercharger, cam, headers, etc. 1989 Corvette...RIP |
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bogus | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
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Ok... been there, done that.
Here is what I would advise. 1. Remove the transmission first. To remove both parts together is best done by removing the hood, and you REALLY don't want to do that. The transmission is held in by the two bolts on the C-beam, 3 bolts on the torque converter and 6 bolts on the engine to bell housing. -- Remove starter -- Remove inspection plate. -- Remove all 8 spark plugs -- Remove three bolts on torque converter to flywheel -- Remove shift cable -- Remove TV cable -- Drain transmission (or else it will leak everywhere!) -- Remove c-beam -- Get a transmission jack, I recommend this little guy from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf ... item.taf?Itemnumber=39178 -- Attach transmission to jack and lower, this will allow access to upper bolts on engine/bell housing. -- Remove bolts -- Remove pain in the ass bolt from head that retains tranmission dipstick tube -- Lower and wheel transmission out Next up, the engine! -- Remove accessories -- Remove hose and fuel lines -- Remove exhaust manifolds -- Remove bolts at motor mounts -- Remove TPI intake -- Remove distributor (means you don't have to remove wiper motor) -- Disconnect everything -- Attach hoist to the 4 studs on the intake. finger tight is ok. -- Lift slowly and wiggle as needed A few things to be careful of: 1. The main accessory bracket, where the PS pump mounts, is junk white metal. It WILL break if you are not careful with it. 2. Same goes with the AC bracket. I recommend removing both before hoisting. Never know... 3. The fuel lines are bolted to the fuel pump block off cover. So as the engine comes up, be sure to remove them as you can reach them. 4. Have the AC purged properly before venting. It is a good idea, cause you don't want that crap in your eyes! 5. Be sure to vent off any residual fuel pressure 6. Remove the battery completely. Why risk it getting crushed? 7. This is a great time to clean up under hood. I would rent a pressure washer and get jiggy wid it. 8. I have noticed that many of the small clips and such can rot away. These clips do things like hold brake lines in place... they simply erode away. 9. Store the bolts and fasteners properly. I suggest small ziploc baggies with a sharpie to mark them. Then put them into a box so you don't lose them. Once the removal is done, THEN worry about cleaning them up. I recommend one of these parts washers: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf ... yitem.taf?Itemnumber=7340 That's about all I gots for ya... good luck! |
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Posted on: 2008/7/20 18:59
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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jim420 | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Guru
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Thanks for all the tips just finished getting it out asides from having to jack and block it to get under her(no hoist) she actually came out pretty nice trans and engine together.Love how these cars are modular much easier than my 69 Imp and you could park a vette under the hood of that thing....once again thanks for the help will be posting pics soon in general chat.
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Posted on: 2008/7/20 19:42
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anesthes | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Master Guru
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Quote:
Yeah. And when you hit it TWICE you're really a dummy -- Joe |
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Posted on: 2008/7/21 13:27
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jim420 | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Guru
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For those interested I have pics now posted in pictures and stuff forum
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Posted on: 2008/7/21 21:00
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cuisinartvette | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Elite Guru
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Bogus, what if the exhaust pipe gets hung up on a manifold stud, whats your preferred method of removal?
WWBD? :laughing2: |
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Posted on: 2008/7/21 21:42
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bogus | Re: 88 5.7 350 removal | ||
Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
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prybar... then have it land on my face.
you should know that one already. |
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Posted on: 2008/7/21 22:19
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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