alright guys I've taken the largest mech project I've ever done. I'm trying to fix an oil leak on my 92 LT1. The leak is finally id'd as coming from the rear of the intake manifold.

I've got just about everything appart but I can't budge the manifold. It won't move an inch. I've got the FSM and followed all the directions and removed all the bolt and connections. Is there a secret? something I'm missing?

thanks for the help since I'm an almost competent mechanic (I know just enough to get myself into deep trouble)

Sometimes, after you double check for ANY bolts you MIGHT have missed...you have to get a little rough with a small pry bar or flat head screw driver. Those manifolds can get quite stuck. Find a good safe pry location, try to break it loose. Move to a new spot...try again. It'll come off with some persuasion.

Oh, when you put it all back on, use Fel-Pro stock gaskets but use a 3/8" bead of high temp silicon for the front and rear seals. Lay the beads, let them cure for about 15 minutes, drop the manifold, inspect to make sure it's all in place with no gaps, bolt it down to torque specs, and let it sit for at least 12 hours before you start the engine. Make sure you do get some in the corners where the silicon meets the Fel-Pro gaskets.

hm... I thought I had a tech tip on intake manifolds... Maybe it is still in production.

However, I also dimple the block (the china wall) and the manifold where it meets the block. I use a small drill bit and just dimple it... like a golf ball. But not even that deep. The idea is to give the sealer something to bite too.

I use Copper RTV. Others have used "The Right Stuff." I have heard good things about The Right Stuff, but it wasn't available when I last did an intake.

Oh, try a rubber mallet on the intake to break it free from the block.

Be sure that nothing big falls into the valley. I lay shop rags inside the V... nice extra for safety. Also, the LT1 gaskets are pinned, so they won't shift during reinstall.

I agree 100% with the let it sit part. However, you can test start it for a moment, just to be sure it's going to start. However, if you use The Right Stuff, it will set up quickly.

Double check your bolts again.
The manifold's siliconed in the valley and the old gaskets will stick. Some CAREFUL prying will pop it.

I don't use silicon RTV at all anymore. I only use the Right Stuff, it's so far ahead of the RTV's. The dimpling isn't necessary at all but if it makes you more comfortable, go ahead. Make sure the valley surfaces are super clean (brake clean). If you use the Right Stuff, you can start it as soon as it's back together.

Recheck the bolt torque after you drive a day or so.

thanks for the answers. that's just what I did and it came off. I was being a little too careful since like I said this is the biggest project I've taken on so far and I was afraid of breaking something.

I'm going to do another post with pics of the entire project when I finish

I have the "right stuff" ready to go. But first I'm going to thoroughly clean and paint the manifold. The throttle body is also amazingly dirty. I think this is the first time it's been off (112K on the clock, I bought it with 103K).

thanks again.

Denending on how the Right Stuff is packaged, if you leave a 1 inch tail hanging out and let it dry, the next time you use it, pull the tail out and you'll get to the fresh stuff. Unlike the silicon it the tubes that you have to dig out.
I use the RS in the tube that's made for a caulk gun. I've pulled that tail out after 3 months and got right to the fresh stuff.

I did the throttle body on bastet44's old L98 a few years back... the inside of the throttle blades looked much like a layer of burned coffee grinds... yuck.

I disagree on the "let it skin over" idea. I have use both RTV and The Right Stuff (preferred). I would rather have the manifold set onto the sealant ASAP, for the best bond to the manifold. If you let it skin over it may not stick or seal as well. I've never heard of anyone letting it skin over before applying it to the block. Why would it be best to have it skin over before contact with cast aluminum but not cast iron?

RACE ON!!!

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kinda like this?

[IMG]http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb33/92LRC/IMGP0839.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb33/92LRC/IMGP0830.jpg[/IMG]

beleive it or not, WORSE!!! her's had some kinda gooey stuff on the throttle blade. I was shocked it still ran.

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I agree about not letting it skin over.

Before I totally switched to ths RS, I was using RTV on transaxle gearboxes. These come apart a couple times a month for gear ratio changes for different tracks. The only way I could get RTV to seal up some of these older boxed was to assemble and tighten the fasteners to where the RTV was starting to push out (a bit over finger tight), then let it sit for some hours and do a final torque.
This is different from letting it skin up as doing the first tightening is forming a gasket. The second tigntening is compressing a gasket. The RTV sitcks to clean aluminum this way.
If you let it skin and then assemble you don't get that "stick" to the aluminum.

With the RS, thankfully, I don't have to mess with this time consuming procedure.