bogus wrote:
if I was a betting man, I would say the car was repainted... and the new surface had just a bit too much hardener.

screamin_conure wrote:
The problem with R12 is price and availability. Most shops don't work with it anymore for lots of reasons, and if they do, it's quite costly to have a system filled or topped off. I'd say that if your system has no leaks, find a shop that will add R12 to it for you and stick with that. If it's leaking, or if the compressor is on its way out, I'd have it repaired and make the move to R134a. At minimum, in addition to replacing the charging ports, be sure to replace the accumulator. If you want to do a proper conversion, you'll want to replace the lines and the compressor as well. Big bucks, but if you're planning on keeping the car long term, it might be worth it.

Pumps are pretty reliable. The sock could (okay it is black and nasty). Takes about an hour to take it out and change.

bogus wrote:
I had this when turning to the left, only. It did it a couple of times, then never did it again. Never figured that one out... and at the time, I had a nearly full tank.

Steve40th wrote:
Quote:

92LRC wrote:
Last few times I've had the car out it stalls when I go around a corner too hard. It just dies quietly and I can get it to turn over again but it will only run for a second. It kind of sputters and almost seems like it's struggling to get fuel. After a while it starts up again like nothing happened. I started thinking it might be the fuel pump or the strainer sock.

When I run the car easy (no sharp turns) it runs fine, no stalls. But lets face it this car was made to take sharp turns so......

Any input is appreciated. Thanks

C4's are known for fuel loss on cornering. If you have over a 1/4 tank you shouldnt have this problem. Below it, its common when cornering hard , especially autocrossing etc.

bogus wrote:
Ah... start with the coil and ignition control module.

They mount together on the right front cylinder head. Inspect the coil wire to the opti and the harness to the ICM.

Also, inspect the harness to the opti from the ECM. This is a 4 wire bundle that runs past the injectors and down into the water pump.

If you are not getting a code, you could have some of the worst possible carbon tracing... EVER. And that would require a new opti at this point.

95vette wrote:
Sudden unaccountable jumps in RPMs would indicate the ECM, unless it is a Toyota, in which case check the floormats.

Aboatguy wrote:
Anybody try Oreilly's full synthetic yet?

$17.99
5 Qts. of O’Reilly Full
Synthetic Motor Oil &
a Mobil 1 Oil Filter
Includes Mobil 1 oil filters at $12.99 or less.

Limit 2 oil & filter specials per customer.
I'm going to throw some in the impala.....

Mike

Weavsvet wrote:
Quote:

92LRC wrote:
they look nice but maybe a little too tall for a standard set up?

Also, no breather on pass side for hose connection to throttle body.

Will I have oiling issues in the valve train because of the height? Is that what you mean?

A hole saw and grommet will fix the breather hose problem.

383tpimachine wrote:
Quote:

92LRC wrote:
Quote:

bogus wrote:
looks awesome!

I wish I had a Vette as a daily driver to/from school... sigh... I had a Pacer... sad...

Subway or my two feet. A Vette wasn't even a thought or possibility.

It was a father son project that BLEW UP in proportion. I put alot of money and time in her.

here my becky
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... id=110394#forumpost110394

bogus wrote:
looks awesome!

I wish I had a Vette as a daily driver to/from school... sigh... I had a Pacer... sad...

383tpimachine wrote:
My car is atomic orange with a black GS stripe
The black letters and emblem is the winter project. vette is my daily driver to and from school.

OP did you powdercoat the center vc bolts?

bogus wrote:
Quote:

Woodstock wrote:
It works, trust me. I did it in practice not in theory!
I do my own chip burning, removed VATS and shorted the relay, just like mentioned on that site.
If Steel_Blue_91's chip has VATS removed it'll work.

I stand (well, sit actually) corrected.

I woulda sworn that the VATS on the 91 on up didn't have that relay.

Very interesting. I guess I should revisit those schematics more often.

My bad...

captmike13 wrote:
Believe it or not you can put a dye in and then use a black light to track it.

Mike

bogus wrote:
IIRC, and I will have to check, there is a vent line at tbe back of heads.

I would be surprised if the head gaskets actually leaked coolant. It would mean there is a lot of damage to them, and I would expect that means the engine is consuming coolant, too.

djxib wrote:
Yes - in LT1's / LT4's there is a steam/vent tube that connects the heads at the rear of the engine. Complete PITA the remove and replace with the intake and heads in place; however it is secured at the heads with a steel washer with a rubber inner.

Having done my head gaskets recently, it is remotely possible that the coolant is leaking outwards from the coolant pathsto the edge of the head but highly unlikely - all the stresses are at the cylinder bore which is where most gasket failures occur. Loss of coolant then happens either via the combustion process (white smoke) and/or via excess pressure in the cooling system causing loss of coolant via the expansion tank.

Good luck!

BrianCunningham wrote:
How long did you wait before firing it up?

You need at least 24hr for the sealant on the 'china wall' to cure.

Quote:

92LRC wrote:

first let me say that your avatar is also excellent

Bounce bounce bounce

Matatk wrote:
You could be experiencing a worn throttle body, which is common (happened on mine). The shaft that holds the butterflys wears an uneven pattern into the side of the TB and causes it to stick slightly. Sometimes you'll notice when you pull out to a light the RPMs are too high, but if you blip the throttle it goes away.

You can use some graphite to lubricate the shaft, which is what I did and it works like a champ. Some people send their TBs out to get the shaft hole bored out and a bushing installed, but I haven't seen the need yet.

Other than that congrats - looks good!

Matthew

BillH wrote:
Yea, sorry. But at least it's clean now and the gasker shouldn't stick.

But, first, verify that the cable isn't sticking. First, look just above the throttle spring & cable assy., there's a set screw that the throttle stop (black) rests against at idle. Is the stop against that screw? Slowly open the throttle a little with your foot and let off slowly. Is that stop still against that screw? If there's a gap, something's sticking, may be cable,may be the throttle body. You may want to pull the cable off the TB and run it with your hand at close to the length where it idles, if you don't feel any thing, the cable's OK. Now run the TB w/o the cable attached open & shut slowly to check for stick.

If all that's Ok, now pull the TB. The IAC is under the throttle position sw. (large wrench size). Pull it and take a look. DO NOT push or pull on the pintle. You can clean any deposites with the TB cleaner. The FSM states "do not remove the thread locking compound on the threads id you're going to reinstall". On reinstall, start the eng for 5 seconds and turn it off for 10 seconds. Than restart and and check idle speed.

BillH wrote:
No, don't lube the cable, not a good idea.
When you cleaned the throttlebody, did you pull the Idle Air Control valve?
If not, it wouldn't supprise me that there's some gunk in it from the cleaning causing your problem.

BrianCunningham wrote:
Came out real nice

bogus wrote:
I did the throttle body on bastet44's old L98 a few years back... the inside of the throttle blades looked much like a layer of burned coffee grinds... yuck.