i'm hopefully installing my superram tomorrow. i've got it down to the stock intake base and EGR tube left to remove and snapped my torx socket off on the egr tube bolt and decided to call it an evening.

so looking at things- the new intake has nice EGR blockoffs and i've got one that will fit the tube coming up off the exhaust manifold. so what will it hurt to delete it? on my TBI pickups it never made a MPG difference and never changed emissions test readings, and this car never has to e-check again. aside of the SES which i would have programmed out. i'm planning on headers next year so i'll eventually wind up losing the EGR tube anyway as i don't plan to buy the ones with all the emissions hookups.

anything else to replace while tearing down this far? already doing water pump(leaking out the weep hole AGAIN), AIR delete, and valve cover gaskets and of course oil change.

everything has been straightforward except for the mouse nest and half eaten hickory nuts under the plenum.

It might throw a code. It's possible the combustion temps inside the motor may be higher. You may lose some mpg. Will not increase performance. Not too much else. I'll be deleting mine once I put the headers on.

Matthew

yea... EGR is not your enemy. It does two things in one deft step.

The act of putting some combustion gasses back into the intake effectively cools the combustion chamber. This has two benefits - easing detonation and lowering NOx emissions.

If you are planning any performance upgrades, I would consider doing EGR... The combustion temps go up, so will knock...

Quote:

I don't think it is a problem deleting the EGR, however additional timing and fuel tweaks should be done in the tune.

we'll block it off and see what happens to the mpg. if it drops off i'll reinstall and recheck.

i don't remember the water pump being this hard to get to, having to move the AC bracket off those studs sucks.

the big mouth accel base is on, distributor is back in, valve covers have paint drying. stuff is going back together, but it's raining now and the car is outside since the 40 and grand prix are up in the garage being worked on so i had to stop working when the rain started.

interesting find - the intake gaskets had been done once and all the runner to base bolts were loose - it had to be between 1991 and 1994 as my dad bought the car in january 1995 and i didn't change them(and if i did the bolts wouldnt be loose). whoever did it did a crappy job and the ends were leaking big time because it appears they failed to properly clean the base when reinstalling it. there were also corners cut, parts missing, etc... kinda weird since the gaskets almost certainly would have been done under warranty at a dealer. i guess that is par for the course having work done anywhere except in your own garage.

my only concern so far is i'm hoping my AIR pump eliminator bracket works, i installed a 1992 alternator a long time ago(bigger) as the CS130's were dying bi-annually. i might have to slot some bolt holes which would be a shame as this bracket i got is a beautiful piece of aluminum.

MPG won't be affected.

What will happen is your NOx emissions will rise... but so does your risk of detonation. Once the knock sensors compensate, you will lose power. How much? Depends on how far it has to retard timing...

Sucks about the loose bolts. That is absolutely inexcuseable.

all done but not really. i have a ticking rocker now on #6 or #8 intake - which is confusing because i did not touch the rockers, just pulled the valve covers to regasket and tighten the lower runner bolts. of course it can't be the drivers side which is the easy cover to remove and inspect.

definitely need to set timing, sounds off a couple degrees, but fixing the tick is #1 priority now. i dunno what the heck would make something tick that was fine 3 days ago that was not messed with.

couple notes, i had to uninstall the bigger LT1 alternator and reinstall a factory sized one, and the mouth of the holley throttle body is bigger than factory so i need to stretch out the intake tube.

so it's not a rocker.

not sure what is wrong but something is not good. it sounds loudest where #6 & 8 injectors are listening through a pipe up against the manifold. i had the ports covered the entire time and went so far as to put a heater hose on the shop vac and go down the runners before i put the lid on the intake. it does not sound like anything is bouncing around in a chamber, i've heard that noise before(on purpose, i was sending something to the scrapper so i experimented on it to learn new noises).

it's definitely valvetrain, not bottom end. i watched the rockers with the valve cover off and everything looked fine and i could tell the noise was not rocker/spring related. at this point i'm probably screwed. going to have a second set of ears come listen.

I wonder if your injectors are going south. They can make a loud ticking noise. And in fact, some injectors are just loud period. PM Mekanik.

Matthew

i'm making room for it in the garage, when i get it in i'll pull the plugs to see if they tell me anything.

the deeper i dig the more signs i find that the engine was removed at some point. missing screws/bolts, trans dipstick not bolted to the bellhousing bolt and just loose flopping there, etc...

i pulled the plugs on 6 and 8 and they look fine.

i'm going to put them back in and start it up with the valve cover off again and tighten the rockers on those cylinders one by one to see if i can make the noise change or go away. other than that, dunno what the hell to do next. watching it run with the valve cover off has me looking at what appear to be 8 properly functioning rockers.

i was almost ready to say to hell with it and put in my LS1 but i know that was just silly thinking.

trying to remember where i put my stethoscope, otherwise i'm buying a new one tomorrow.