just checked, my email went to spam.

i found the new address by searching frantically after being fed up at "other" forum trying to find some brake info.

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and good luck with that. i wanted to kill myself when i was done with mine.

i didn't have to do anything to my distributor. the worst part was when i needed to pull it back off, i hit the harness with the rail and made sparks, the car quit running, and i sold the intake because i couldn't stomach installing it again.

2 words. bloody knuckles. mine had the plenum to runner configuration changed. the holes were drilled out in the plenum, and the runners were tapped. then safety wired the bolts so they couldn't fall in.

at this point i'm picking my own logic apart and think i should enjoy my impala. i think part of me is having withdrawl issues since dragway 42 took their tuesday night 5 hour test and tune for $10 off the schedule for this year so fridays got that much more crowded. i've made one run this year.

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it's not really the $, i have most all the parts. it is the time. running a business and a two year old keeping me on my toes at all times leaves little project time. never wanted the 91 to be a project, the car decided that for me. i was enjoying driving it.

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that was another eventual thought with a car like this. steal the d44 when the time comes and throw in my d36 before selling. and throw on a $100 set of factory wheels and ride off into the sunset with the c6 rims.

i'm going up to mighigan next weekend and found a 91 zf6 car up there but it has 200k and is pretty rough and asking price is 3300. c4 prices are all over the board. you get the "this is a 25 year old gm it's worth 3 grand" like the 87 i posted, and the "it says corvette this wrecked engineless primered torn apart shell is worth $3500 and i'm going to post it over and over because i'll get the money" guy.

http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/3978541013.html

yeah i was tired this morning, i had to get up before my alarm so i got online and posted half awake.

sounds crazy but i've been looking for a sub 3k early c4 to just drive while my 91 is laid up, as my plans include building an engine, changing over to a t56, and knowing my schedule this process will take a couple years.

i REALLY miss driving my vette so the thought of picking one up cheap that really wouldn't lose much if any value over the course of ownership that could be offed once my 91 is back up is intriguing. manual is a must.

found this one, about 100 miles away. pick it apart and see if there is anything i should run from or am missing, i appreciate any input

long time no post.

long story short, my 91 needs engine, or at least work that requires i pull it out. something is locked inside and it will not turn more than 1/4" either way. not sure if moisture got in the cylinders or what. i drove it into the garage and covered it up for winter 2 years ago and it never made it out.

i have been considering building some sort of more powerful engine for my belair, which would leave me with my perfectly good small block, which would conveniently work really well in the vette. it's basically my clone of the 330hp vortec crate motor with a little more lift, and i used a factory 1pc main roller block. i have a holley vortec EFI intake, fuel rails, 4bbl 1000cfm throttle body so it would make a nice upgrade to the L98.

my big idea would be - why stick with the 700r4? I happen to have a T56 from a 95 trans am sitting next to the vette in the garage. It appears that the big issue is the c-beam mount. this does not seem hard to deal with, I weld and fabricate everything anyway. It's hard to find many C4 T56 threads via google without "get a ZF6 it's easier"

It almost appears the hardest part would be getting my big self under the dash to put the clutch pedal in.

not sure if there is a question here but i'll take whatever ideas you want to throw at me.

i almost forgot this incarnation of my car.

then it made me remember the fatal flaw of the superram - it binds up the 700r4 TV cable. i miss it just because it looks so cool, but it was such a pain to R&R.

i'm glad this week is over.

got sinus infection monday
awful migraine monday through to tuesday evening
destroyed tire on my dually at the scrapyard wednesday
blazer started making bad noises thursday so i traded it in
today the burb i bought had fuel leak so i had to replace the lines, and caught a rock and chipped the windshield.

and my mom just called saying she lost a brake line on her blazer.

cool car. for wagons i've had 91, 92, and 94 caprices and a 92 roady. i love them and i'm sure i will own more in the future. a few months ago i had picked up a 94 to drive in the winter but when i got it home it was too rotten underneath to be safe.

yeah i do all my own fab work. i winched the car in by the tow bar and drove it out. i've amassed quite a collection of metal fab equipment.

my little guy is already a lady killer, he came along in april, thats why it took me 7 months to get on the road instead of 2 or 3.

i guess i could have just posted my photobucket album, it's a random picture dumping ground though.

yeah, lots.

engine is 2001 5.3 with 40k

trans is 2003 4l60e with 23k

engine got ls1 intake, coils, fuel rail covers to hide my wires and the ugly coils.

to use the car intake i had to get a 2007+ truck waterpump and relocate the idler pulley. the other option would have been gto, vette, or f body front accessories but the truck stuff fits the b body just right.

wiring harness came from S&P as did the pcm. headers are stainless full length f body ones. 2.5" mandrel bent pipes with summit chambered race mufflers. i made my own motor mount adapters and set the engine so trans is in stock location. one of the aftermarket kits mounts engine up too high and too far forward, not sure about the other but they both cost too much.

had to use an f body pan and notch/plate the crossmember and make a new trans crossmember because the new 6 bolt trannies have different mount surface than original.

converted to floor shift with blazer console while i was in there.

probably have $4500 into it including the car. most of the cash outlay was 4 years ago when i was going to do my caddy but i sold it first and had a pretty complete b/d body swap waiting for a body.

this is my thread on the imp forum about finishing details
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=264453

sorry, i got busy with life and forgot about you guys for a while. it's hard to remember to log into the vette message board when you havent driven your vette further than 30 feet in the last year. good news on that front is i have new front brakes and will be returning them to stock, the c6 z51 rotors look cool as hell, but one of my modified c5 calipers went bad and i think it may have been the mods needed to clear the 17" wheel. so i'm returning to what works.


anyhow, i was able to drive the SS for a month before winter









i am now sold on LS engines hook, line, and sinker and was thinking about throwing the vette on the shelf for a few more years(hell, it hasnt been on the road legally since 09) and collecting LS swap parts. thought about yanking the L98 for my sonoma just to give me a reason but then i'll end up wanting to drive the vette.

in my 50+ chevies i've never owned a real super sport anything

until now. it was a light front tap with no eng/trans. i have started repairs, and wiring is almost done







i love rust free cars, even my vette needs some rust repair from living in cleveland.

i always keep the hood latches well lubed and adjusted my cables in the fall. now, my hood is stuck again. the drivers side will pop but no go on the passenger side.

any ideas? i'm ready to make my own latch pulls that hide behind the hood edge, but need to get the hood open to do so.

like new(3 miles) raybestos c6 z51 front rotors. installed on my 91 but going a different direction with my brakes to stay in stock auto-x class. paid $74ea plus ship from rock auto, sell for $120.

loc: 44280

cool as hell, but also sad that a ZR1 got hacked up. not sure which side of the fence i am on with it.

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c3500 chevy dually with a flatbed. luckily it was a cleveland police officer and i have 3 cousins in the dept, two of which are sergeants. so it is being taken care of.

scrap night was decent. i think the holiday confused people on which day to put their stuff out. we got some good metal to recycle and picked up an almost brand new kenmore grill for my sister's new house.

the boat made it home after i rewired the trailer it is on. definitely needs work but it looks like it will float and the engine looks awesome so provided i get it running everything is cosmetic. it has not been in the water since 1991. but a free boat is a free boat is a moneypit.

going to pick up a boat in an hour. got up early and put new mudflaps on my truck, got a ticket for not having them.

working on chevelle rear brakes today, giving away a couple kittens, and heading out to look for scrap - trash night in some rich areas tonight. gotta fund the vette somehow.

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believe your switch is from a diesel truck.

calipers are on right - been doing this stuff way too long to put the bleeders on the bottom

the vette stuff is tame compared to the depths i go into my stuff. trying to keep it as simple as possible and not mod too much.

218

hi guys i'm back,

i think the neighbor does not like me because my driveway has a bunch of cool cars parked in it that make his jag and caddy look silly and weak. i was laying under the chevelle bending up new brake lines and waved to him and he just scowled at me.

we're going to my sister's house for charred meat to celebrate our independence and then going to a park on lake erie to watch cleveland's fireworks

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"Enhance the front of your Corvette with this unique front hood wing"

you can not unsee that hood wing.

i'm leaning toward bleeding pushing the master too far and screwing something up now. i get no air out of anything at all 4 corners.

ordering a new master on monday.

rock auto has raybestos z51 rotors for $6x each.

15 years ago you walk into parts store and pull a 180 stat off the shelf in a package that says "fits chevy, gmc, amc v8 1955-present" yourself and it's right in between 160 and 195 ones for the same application, and the gaskets are right there as well.

ah those were the days.

those are definitely eclipse lenses. vette parts - at a mitsu dealer parts counter near you!

13.4" z51 rotors/base c5 calipers/17" a molds. it did not bolt right on, the adapter brackets i had needed re-machined(poorly made?), and i had to do some rib removal on the calipers to clear with sufficient room for the stick on wheel weights. for anyone not as crazy as me i would say do not do this unless you get 18"+ wheels but i am not giving up my black GS wheels for anything.

i'm a big fan of a small lip spoiler on most anything but i've yet to find anything i like for the c4. i do not like the break in the center of that one. hell of a launch though.

original master worked fine when i took the calipers off thursday. calipers were rebuilt and dry, i've never heard of bench bleeding calipers and never had issue with bleeding anything in the past including completely dry brand new systems.

my car looks like it can stop on a dime sitting in the driveway, but i didnt do it for looks. we're going to try to re-bleed tomorrow after letting it sit to hopefully get any air to rise to the top of the calipers. got another fresh quart of fluid, i ran out.

the c6 z51 brakes are freaking huge. if i can get the air out of the system i think i'll be able to put passengers through the windshield if they are annoying.

i've been scarce around here, my car was boned up most of last year, i only drove it once. the stupidram put the tv cable into a bind - crappy design - so i sold off my dream intake after it turned into nightmare. then the harness made some sparks and fried the pcm. at least my new setup pulls hard well beyond the original TPI intake, but it took a while to get it right after getting some supposedly good parts that ended up tampered with prior to acquisition.

ive been using the walker/summit butt joint stainless band clamps for years, with as much as an inch separating the pipes depending on how big a POS the car was and i have never had issue with them. the flange from cat to the h pipe on my beater crown vic rusted so i cut it out and put on one of those clamps 2 years ago bridging the inch or so gap. no leaks.

did c6 fronts yesterday. quickly swapped the hose over to the new calipers to not lose fluid. made sure not to let the master get low and immediately cracked the bleeders to gravity fill the calipers.

i can not for the life of me get the air out of the system. we've done the traditional "pump it up and hold it while i work the bleeders" about 5 or 6 separate times(5-6x per wheel each time) and i've used the mityvac vacuum bleeder. i'm getting no air out now and i still have spongy pedal that gradually goes to the floor when i hold it. i cleaned everything and have no signs of leakage anywhere. nice and dry at the hose connections.

want to try my new brakes out but it's getting quite frustrating. i've run over a pint of fluid through the system trying to get the pedal feel back.

i'm definitely interested in the hatch weatherstripping, mine is so bad there are 4" gaps in the corners.

heh erector set look - i hate that about the readily available AIR delete parts. "hey bill lets stack a bunch of $hit up and call it done and charge $120"

looks very nice. i have one i have never seen before on my car, machined out of one piece of aluminum and nicely curved instead of all rectangle and spacer.

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hah!

thats where i live.

i was 5, i was in kindergarten/first grade in cleveland and my mom had a 76 firebird formula with a 400.

ok

got the 5 volt reference signal at the CTS plug

nothing when i turn the AC on

unless there are any better ideas i'm installing the aftermarket fan controller tomorrow so i can drive my car.

can turn both on with the aldl brian

i'll check for reference signal and ground at the cts plug and see what happens when i turn on the AC - does it matter if it is empty? i had to remove the compressor to pull the valve covers to get the superram off.

checking the CTS - not the gauge sending unit. it's installed in the new intake in same location as factory.

80.5* gives me 2600 ohms(pays to have a high end multimeter with a temperature probe)

ignition on, jumping the sensor wires in the plug does nothing.

ok guru geniuses

i found some time in my hectic schedule(cause we had to quit early today due to storming) and plugged my little OBD1 tester in - ignition on both fans kick on.

where do i look now - temp sensor? i forget the test method - something like 1600 ohms @ room remp and it's good?

i have known good ones in my electrical box that i've tested before putting in there if i need one. i picked up a hayden aftermarket dual adjustable fan controller if i need it- but i've needed one on my belair for a while so if i do not have to use it on the vette i've got a home for it.

yeah same relays as the 91.

i'll look to the ground test first to see if that makes them come on. i'll pull out the FSM to see which wire it is.

ok i got the 91 running

#1 i'm a tard - i jumped the gun and thought my engine was toast, but i had some electrical issues that were getting enough juice to the starter to click it over and make it look like the engine was frozen, but not enough to actually kick it over even with a fresh battery.

so i fixed that. my wiring underhood is getting sad though and has seen way better days. the heat has taken its toll for 18 years/115k miles and things were beginning to not work, work erratically, and finally i lost the injector wiring somewhere along the way. the main bundle behind the engine by the heater box is in bad shape. the wires are brittle and the covering loom just fell apart in my hands.

#2 in the interest of ever being able to drive my car this summer, and in the case of being totally poor since i bought a house and am getting married in 3 weeks, i made the executive decision to sell the superram and install a single plane intake and a carb instead of putting a whole new engine harness in the car.

everything functions as it should - with the exception of the cooling fans and converter lockup. i assumed to need a stand alone lockup kit because of the lack of TPS so that is no big deal.

but my cooling fans are not coming on - at all. the temp sensor is installed and the wires to it should be good as it was one of the things functioning properly prior to the swap - but i won't rule out something happening in the time since as things went downhill pretty quickly. (i wonder if the wiring fried the ecm and that is why i lost injector pulse but that is not a huge issue right now)

what all do i need to check for ? i could always get an aftermarket controller with a seperate sending unit and run them that way but i prefer to just make them work with the stock setup if it is possible

other than the fans and lockup - i need to pull 12v ign underhood somewhere for my electric choke hookup - any convenient sources for that besides my refusal to splice into the coil wire?

the ass dyno tells me it's faster than it was with the TPI and right on par with the superram.

no because i only drove it a few miles since i did the intake.

i believe there was probably some prior damage as when it was my dad's car he neglected some oil leaks for a long time and it always seemed low when i checked it.

i may be jumping the gun with the LS1 stuff but my head isn't clear right now. i've got a 4 bolt main 350 roller block on the stand that would be easier to rebuild and slap in than a whole system swap that i'll probably run out of money during.

for every LSx swap thread i read on CF, including the FAQ, all i read is "you need a longer driveshaft, this moves stuff forward 1.5 inches or so"

so has anyone done the work to position the engine as factory to not mess with the driveline? i could pick up an aluminum shaft from something longer and have it shortened if necessary but added expense is lame. i'll be selling my 90 grand prix(that the LS1/4L60-e are in right now) and my superram, holley 58mm billet TB, and whatever else i have to to get the swap done. my L98 is locked solid.

i can do whatever fabrication is necessary(read above my 90 FWD grand prix is RWD now), i've already got mount adapters, and figure one of the least easy parts will be making a C beam bracket(i figure i'll get a 4th gen camaro tailshaft housing and work off the torque arm mounts like they do for the c4 t56 swap since i've got a trans from a silverado right now).

i've got a c5 filter/regulator, walbro pump, mount adapters, 4 kinds of manifolds and headers, the engine is wired and ready w/ pcm

anything else i might be forgetting? i'm waiting on sale of my superram to order a c5 water pump, balancer, and accessory drive setup. my engine has truck accessories right now because i had a bad 6.0 for parts and unless the balancer will clear the frame crossmember up front i don't think i can use them. i gather i will give it a shot first then order if necessary.

i know i'm in for a daunting task, but i've been planning to do this when the engine or trans went anyway, just that i was not planning on it being at 115k miles.

oh yeah,

1991 with 115k miles - original(as far as i know) injectors, fuel pump.

my dad bought the car with 43k in 1994 and i traded him for it last year, he never did anything other than maintenance

i do know car was wrecked in 1993 and it appears the intake was off before as well as either engine or trans was out before he bought it because there are some bolts in hard places missing that a half-ass mechanic would leave out when reinstalling engine or trans.

here's the rundown of what is going on:

my injectors are more noisy than normal

performed idle relearn then set the timing per the FSM

i went for a ride and the car kept almost stalling while coming to a stop. i turned the idle screw up to try to keep this from happening - nothing helped there.

when i pulled in the driveway i shut the car down to adjust the TV cable...(is there a special superram TV cable bracket or do you have to live with the almost binding cable? cause i think my tranny isn't going to like that) it would not restart. crank, crank, no fire at all. hit it with the starting fluid and it fired and kept running. turned off, did the same thing but once i used starting fluid it kept running and i could drive it. i pulled it over to the front of the garage and shut it down again and same thing - no start except on starting fluid.

i know i should have tested fuel pressure when it would not start - however i need to get a scrader valve adapter for my fuel pump test kit.

if the fuel pump is going bad - why would the car start on starting fluid and then continue to run?

what else could i be looking at?


if it were a tad easier to retain the full functionality(dash stuff, cruise, etc...) of the car i'd be putting in an LS engine right now.

heh

bought a 72 chevelle this morning.