I'm chasing a bad vibration in the rear so I though I'd start easy (bearings)and work hard (diff).

Tried to remove the RR hub to inspect it and had to use a 3-jaw puller to get it off the half shaft.

In the process I managed to pull the hub apart.

I pushed the two pieces back together and rotated the bearing. It didn't feel rough, but it wouldn't stay together either.

Any idea whether I ruined a perfectly good bearing in the process of removal, or was it bad before I got to it? I also didn't notice a washer that's supposed to be between the half shaft and the hub.

Of course, now I am looking at replacement regardless

TIA,

Jeff

(on the vibration, I grab and rotate the two half shafts in opposite directions and see a lot of movement between the two and hear clunking noises in the diff - not sure the bearing was the problem, but it may be a contributor? The vibe is bad, especially over 65)

Yep, hub is junk now.

I bought a pair of the NOS bearings from Corvette Recycling and they expedited my oder so I can change them out this weekend.

I was driving to work Tuesday and the driver side growled real bad on the way to work. I know when I unbolt it I will have 2 pieces

If any one else has the tapered bearing hubs they bought as part of the group purchase a couple years ago - check your hubs often.

You didn't break it, it was already bad, IMHO. I'd order a new set from corvette recycling, that's what I did. As far as the washer, search for one of my old threads on rear hubs and you'll see it.

Matthew

if they're real old they come apart like that

That said, you can't use a puller on them unless it only hooks to the center, which I'm not sure can be done.

Since I need the car, I ordered a pair of rear hubs from the local Napa store.

I didn't think I could get enough umph with just a 3-jaw and 1/2 drive breaker bar to separate a bearing.

I ordered the washers a while ago in anticipation. They've been sitting on a shelf waiting. I've probably seen some of your threads referencing the washers before - probably what prompted me to order them in the first place.

Since it's still a DD, I can get a few miles on the hubs before the first autocross of my season on April 11.

I know people have posted pics in the past of disassembled hubs, but I've never been able to view any. What holds it together?

Brian,

It's a generic puller with 3 arms 120* apart (can be converted to a 2-arm), it hooked around the wheel flange with the center bolt bearing against the stub axle.

I had heard of the rears coming apart before. Thank goodness for that nut on the axle, which makes periodic inspection by shaking the wheel a little difficult.

That makes the tally 1 rear hub on the vette separated, 1 front hub on the f-body broken (the little stub of an axle snapped during an autocross run).

I ordered mine from Corvette Recycling on Tuesday and they arrived today, cost a little more for "rush" shipping. I need my car on Monday. I'm planning to get them done over the weekend.

When I changed my rear hubs a little over a year ago my passenger rear hub came off in two pieces when I removed the axle bolt.

What symptoms were you having? Grinding noises, clicking, vibrations, play?

What does this have to do with the tapered bearing GP?

Aren't the Corvette Recycling hubs just oem NDH units?

the stub axle helps keep it together, which is why it came apart when you put the puller on it, here's a xsection

BTW I took apart a brand new one to find this out

and here's why you can't put it back together, PLASTIC BEARING CAGES!

Quote:

I bought mine with the tapered bearing GP and put them on just over a year ago. They did not last wery long compared to the OEM bearings. I'm going back to OEM. If you bought bearings from the GP check them often, especially if you do track days.

To the poster that asked about noises etc.:
When my OEM went bad there was no grinding or extra noises from the rear. Just a wiggle when the wheel was jacked up and checked at 12 & 6.
My tapered bearing grinds like a mofo when making a right turn (puts load on that side) and has a good wiggle when checked at 12&6

Alright, I put the Napa bearings on - (made in China BTW). Left side came off the stub axle with hand pressure and in one piece. Yes, bad RR hub.

As for symptoms, it sounds quieter back there - not that a C4 will ever be quiet - and feels a little tighter, less twitchy.

As for my vibration, I'll call it improved but not fixed. Feels more central. With the new RR hub, I don't feel shaking center-right, just center. I have a feeling I'm gonna need all new bearings in the diff as well as bushings in the rear before all is said and done. Too bad stock replacement bushings are made of unobtainium.

Not to point out the obvious, and forgive me if you've already posted about it in the past, but have you checked easy things like wheels out of round or a tire out of balance?

I haven't heard of rear ends on C4's causing vibrations. Moaning and grinding, sure, but not vibes.

What about your halfshafts? They get dinged or bent somewhat easily.

No problem with pointing out the obvious - I freely admit I can be "blind" at times, or is it blonde?

The RR wears faster than any other corner, LR almost as fast - probably in part due to an aggressive alignment driven on the street.

Something tells me I've chased out of balance wheels before and that wasn't it. Good suggestion, though. I'll try rotating tires around tomorrow and see what I get.

When I replaced the u-joints one was bound up so badly it wouldn't rotate at all and the cap broke from the strain. Somehow in my mind I want to relate some of my trouble back to there. It was the RR outer u-joint.

[img width=300]http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?pid=30366643&id=1018720494[/img]

I also have an issue with the pinion yoke. U-joint is loose in the register. I measured u-joints and the yoke with calipers, I know I need a yoke, which means crush sleeve/pinion bearing preload is compromised, which means pull the diff....

At low vehicle speeds and lower gears - especially 6th, every once in a while I'll hear a fairly loud clunk when I get back on the gas from decel, best I can relate is a backlash kind of clunk. Rotating the half shafts by hand I get a good bit of play at the diff housing and clunking. This is the only IRS D44 I've ever been around, so I don't know what's "normal".

The shin bone's connected to the thigh bone, the thigh bones...