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   All Posts (jaa1992)


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Re: Improved Stopping Power
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Why can't I find these deals on big brakes

How are you going to mount them?

Posted on: 2012/10/15 1:06
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Re: Help with You Tube
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Did you use the embed feature from youtube?

Also, there is some software glitch with xoops that if you try to use the "quick reply" box at the bottom it won't post, you have to hit the "reply" button on the post itself.

Matthew


That may have been my problem, although I copied it in when I was in edit post mode

Someone else was able to embed it in a post.

I'll try again when I get the next one stripped down and posted on YouTube.

Thanks for all the suggestions

Posted on: 2012/5/18 1:42
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Help with You Tube
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I don't get it I tried to embed a you tube video in my AMP post in the Autocross and road racing section and It isn't working.
I looked at other posts with you tube videos and I thought I had it.

Any help?

Posted on: 2012/5/16 1:08
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Re: OMFG - Atlanta Motorsports Park is amazing!
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My rental was a 2012 v6 Impala automatic
Figuring out the paddle shifter was an experience.
Lets see if this YouTube link works:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/RTrDYdtWg-w" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Until I figure out the embedding:
http://youtu.be/RTrDYdtWg-w

Buffy's car is working fine since I fixed the wiring for the fuel pump

Posted on: 2012/5/16 0:55
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Re: OMFG - Atlanta Motorsports Park is amazing!
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In the rental I was able to put my medium size balls on one lap comming out of 13,14,15,16 combo so I was carrying almost 100 to the straight. I had been carrying about 80.
Not that top speed means anything I hit an indicated 115 before hitting the binders.

I'm betting that anyone with big brass ones will be doing 1:30's, us lesser humans will be under 2 min. Just like Road Atl.

I'm working on getting some of the video I took up on You Tube. I'll post when its up

Posted on: 2012/5/15 2:36
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OMFG - Atlanta Motorsports Park is amazing!
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Put this track on your bucket list!

Very technical track. You are turning left and right most of the time.
I was instructing in a rental, but even a grocery getter was a blast on this track.

Its still got some growing to do (no bathrooms or showers or a proper timing tower). However the management is stellar. Tracks Unilimted was supposed to run Saturday and Sunday. Sunday was a washout because one of the drains plugged up and a lake formed just before turn 6 and covered the entinre track too deep to make it safe. They are bending over backwards and anyone that was signed up for Sunday will get an awsome email from Tracks Unlimited.

If you are part of the 1% and live within a couple hours of the track - consider a membership.

For the rest of us - find an organization holding an event there and GO!
FYI Hooked on driving is out there Friday May 18 and may have some spots.
Tracks Unlimited is back out there Fathers day weekend

Posted on: 2012/5/15 0:52
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Re: Two questions 1 about front air dam Second is a dum ass ?
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FYI - without them as you approach 100mph the front end gets REAL light.
After that experience I put mine back on before I went to Road Atl again.

What I had to do was fiddle around with the inside metal piece and IIRC I had to drill a hole on each side to make the "universal" one to fit.

Posted on: 2012/5/10 22:36
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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Quote:

jaa1992 wrote:
I've got to get this engine together - tonight is get the nut out, put timing set back on and maybe pistons - we'll see.


Had to pull the cam all the way out to get that stinking nut
So cam gear and chain off, cam retainer off, cam out, bolt recovered, cam lubed, cam in, cam retainer on, cam gear and timing chain on. 6 pistons in and snug on the rod bolts.

Tomorrow night is last two pistons and torque rod bolts. Then oil pump and hardware. Make sure it spins freely.
then I'll test fit the champ pan and pickup.

That will be all until Monday night cause I'll be wore slam out keeping my student from killing me at the track

Posted on: 2012/5/10 2:04
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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Quote:

95vette wrote:
Jim, I just sent you a private message about AMP.


Gotcha covered. They are going to let Instructors hit the track Friday so I'll get a little time then.
I've got to get this engine together - tonight is get the nut out, put timing set back on and maybe pistons - we'll see.

Posted on: 2012/5/9 22:31
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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Quote:

Calm wrote:
That's great news!
Sorry about the lost bolt.
Perhaps use your magnet while rocking the cam a little back and forth?
Best of luck!


Tried that, I've got three diferent "magnet on a stick" tools and none of them helped.
Hoping just pulling the cam out a little will do the trick.

Posted on: 2012/5/9 22:28
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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The good news is with the timing gear and chain there was no interference so I didn't have to clearance the rods or rod bolts anymore.

Tomorrow night its pull the camshaft and recover the bolt and start putting it together for final assembly.
It ain't gonna be in the car on Saturday so I gotta figure out plan C for the weekend I'm instructing at Atlanta Motorsports Park

Posted on: 2012/5/9 2:39
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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Floating pistons with locks.
didn't take the piston off the rod, well my machinist that balanced the crank did and put them back together.

Posted on: 2012/5/9 0:56
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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Well, aparently the rods are clearanced enough from the original build. I think I forgot to mention this is a rebuild of a 383 that decided to thow a lifter into the cam grea and carnage ensued.

Been trying to get enough time to assemble this for a couple of months. Been spending an hour here and there.

Anyone reading this in the future - follow engineholic's method of checking the clearance! Putting the timing gear together is PERFECT!

Now I have a stinking rod bolt that fell into the cam area when I was removing it from #2 piston. I've tried different magnets and other tools to try and get it out. Looks like I'm going to need to remove the timing, cam gear, cam retaining plate, and pull the cam to get it

Posted on: 2012/5/8 23:46
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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ok, pistos/rods are out
Timing set is on - I can't beleive I got the marks lined up perfectly the first time!
Chain is a little loose, but I can adjust it later with some help. I couldn't get the bolts tight, chain tight at the same time.

Tomorrow night I'll do one piston in each hole and rotate a couple times to make sure there is no rod interference. Mark the rod if there is and hit it with the grinder - reminds me I'll pick up an electric grinder tomorrow cause I don't think the dremel will cut it and my compressor won't put out enough air to make the one I have run for more than a couple seconds

Posted on: 2012/5/8 1:56
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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OBTW - I'm class limited on HP which is why I went with the lt4 hotcam. I'll have to look, but IIRC its 350rwhp

Now if I wind up over that and can't detune I'll be looking for a wilder cam to run in the next class up.

Posted on: 2012/5/7 22:32
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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Carp - why isn't this in the books and articles I read a hundred times

Any concerns with balance if I grind the rods for clearance?
Crank was balanced to the current rods and pistons.

Any concerns with the piston going up and down in the cylinder without rings?

Guess its time to pull it all apart again

Block is clearanced and the crank weights and rod ends have lots of room.

Thanks again to ALL!!!!

Posted on: 2012/5/7 22:28
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Re: Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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Its an LT4 hotcam, which IIRC is a small base circle.
so I'll try rotating the crank a little and see if the interference changes.

Off to put an old hub on and a bolt to turn the crank.

Thanks for the update.

Posted on: 2012/5/7 0:49
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Help LTx 383 build cam issue
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Putting the 383 together

Put the cam in befor the crank and rods
cam turned freely, I guess I turned that sucker 20 times.
Put the bottom end together and installed the gear on the crank.
put the water pump gear on and the cam gear
Could only rotate the cam gear about 350* in either direction.
tried another waterpump gear - same thing
What the heck is going on???
took the water pump gear out and sure enough the cam only rotates and then STOPS
what the heck did I do wrong?
It shouldn't touch the rods so that can't be interfering - can they?

Help!!

Posted on: 2012/5/6 22:35
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Re: Roadracing tire size
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Another note on corner exit traction/tirespin - Most newer drivers feel they have to use 2ond gear in a tight corner on a road course (which makes tire spin easier).
The fact is that there are almost no corners on a roadrace track that need 2ond gear.
If a Corvette isn't pulling hard in 3rd coming out of a corner, your corner speed is too slow (and corner speed comes with seat time).

Even in a Miata, in a hairpin corner, you'll be 3rd.


I agree - shoot when I first started time trials I was using street tires and 3rd gear out of 7 at Road Atl (one of the most important turns there).
Instructing I try to get students to use the right gear so they are in control and can follow the flow of the course.

Posted on: 2012/4/9 22:57
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Re: HPS Brake Pads
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Full disclosure I'm a Carbotech kind of guy.
Shoot I'm even looking for them to make an XP8 for my daily driver 2012 Camaro

Until I get the big brakes I use XP12/10 combo with a bias spring.

Posted on: 2012/2/21 14:54
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Re: HPS Brake Pads
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I've seen the track map so many times I can almost draw it with my eyes closed. Talked with Jeremy several times over the last few years. Last time I was at the location it was just a mud track.

Based on the elevation changes, expected speeds and number of braking zones before sharper turns it won't be brake eating like CMP, but you will need really good pads to brake from 110+ to 45 for a couple of turns.
HPS just aren't made to take that kind of heat.
The long straight you are going to be near top speed of your car right before you have to brake heavy for the turn.
Thats going to happen 15 times or more in a 30 min session.
There is enough braking in the rest of the lap that if you don't boil the brake fluid the HPS will fade real bad.

I've been in a c6 at VIR, HPS pads and by lap 3 he had to break real early for the left at the end of the long back straight. By lap 4 I had him going 50% hoping the pads would come back that session.

If I have a student tell me he is on HPS pads we do NOT get to 70% until the next to last session on the second day at any of the tarks I've been to. The HP+ are a little better and I'll get a student to max them out by day two of an event.

HPS for the street - no problem, wife has a couple of years on hers and they are barely worn.

I'm hoping to get on AMP in April or May depending on which group gets out there that needs an instructor.

Posted on: 2012/2/21 3:21
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Re: HPS Brake Pads
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Quote:

95vette wrote:
Hi Jim,

I will be going to Atlanta Motorsports Park, the new track just outside of Dawsonville. I have been doing volunteer work for them and have 4 free track days to use this year.
It is still under construction, but will be having their first sessions in early March and will be fully functional by April/May. Looks like a well laid out track with a lot of elevation changes and about 1/2 mile longer than Road Atlanta.

How is your engine build coming along?


You are going to want at least HP+ all around for that track. Maybe even a DTC compound on the front.

Engine is comming along. I should have the valves and other parts needed to finish the first round of machine work (clean block, replace bent valves in the head, and replace freezeplugs and cam bearings.)
Calling around this week for the polish crank and balance work. Ordering the cam and oil pan. should have it together before mid-March and in by the end of March.

Posted on: 2012/2/20 15:17
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Re: HPS Brake Pads
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Quote:

95vette wrote:
Bill, I will likely be going with new rotors as well. Present rotors look and feel smooth, but they have over 100K miles on them.


If there is no ridge on those rotors USE THEM!!!!!
New rotors are not as good as older rotors.
I've seen my c5 buddies at the track change rotors a lot.
Me I'm still on 4 yr old rotors.

Where are you going for your track day?
That will tell the tale if the HPS will work.

Posted on: 2012/2/19 20:39
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Re: Custom oil pan
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Thats a heck of a price!
Having just spent a small fortune on the timing chain for my 383 this may be an option.

Do you spend any time autocrossing or road racing your car?

Posted on: 2012/2/19 2:01
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Re: Fuel Rail question - LTx
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Quote:

djxib wrote:
Jim - I'm using 92 rails on my LT4 intake. There is enough flex in the system to allow the bolt holes to line up. I've been looking to get 96 rails but that task keeps being pushed down my to-do list :-)


Really . hmmmmmmmm

Still think it would be better with the later rails.
Work has been a bear and haven't had time to call around.

Posted on: 2012/2/16 2:58
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Fuel Rail question - LTx
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In 92 the fuel rails have the crossover in the rear and no provision for a front crossover tube in the Intake.

I've got a later intake with the crossover groove in the intake. I really want to use this intake, however the fuel rails bolt differently so I can't use the rails from 92.

I do have an intake with rails from a B-body LTx intake (has the crossover), however the feed and return are on the driver side and not the passenger side.

Can I modify these rails to feed and return from the passenger side?
Bite the bullet and use AN lines and fittings and customize the heck out of the fuel lines?
Are the 95 and up fuel rails available and make this real simple?

TIA

Posted on: 2012/2/8 21:46
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Re: Custom oil pan
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What a timely thread.
Looks like three options for a road race pan for my 383:
Champ
Competition Componnents
Canton

Decisions, decisions, decisions.
I need to look at my IM's because I think someone gave me another one to look at.

Posted on: 2012/1/25 13:35
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Re: The 383 "freshening" has begun
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Shoot, $147 to use this on 16 - 32 rods in the next few weeks. Wonder if anyone would loan me one?

I'm going to pick up a digital scale anyway cause I'll use that for other things.

Posted on: 2012/1/24 15:49
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Re: ALMS ADDS VIR TO 2012 SCHEDULE!!!! WOOT!!!!
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
Quote:

KPotter wrote:
Hmmm, that might be doable. Might just have to check into it once tickets go on sale.


It would be about an 8 hr drive for you, Ken.

I doubt flying would be effective... I get the feeling Roanoke isn't the best airport, and anything else is just too far away. The nearest airport is Greensboro or Raleigh/Durham, NC.

Since I used SWA, I did Cleveland to Raleigh... yea, one stop somewhere! Nearly 4 hours in the air! AirTran ain't any better!!! And SWA's rates are cheaper!

Driving is your best bet.


RDU airport is the closest I'd fly into. Its about 45 min to an hour from the track and Danville.
Roanoke is almost two hours away by car. Never been through that airport. A long time ago there used to be daily flights into Danville, now that would be the ticket.

Posted on: 2012/1/24 15:42
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Re: The 383 "freshening" has begun
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Yes please let me know how I can grab that spreadsheet from you.
Machine shop is just going to do the machining I tell them so I have to be perfect.

The block should just need cleaning and checked, Its a golen block. I do expect surprises, but I hope I have none.
Is the fixture to weigh the big end and small end something I can fab up or something I can find inexpensive - Right now it looks like I'll only use it a few times

Posted on: 2012/1/23 23:35
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Re: The 383 "freshening" has begun
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Quote:

engineholic wrote:
Have your machinest mic. everything out n go from there.
The main thing is getting all tolerances in specs. for desired application, after machine work pre-assy to check #'s, make corrections, then if all cool final assy.
As far as damaged/worn parts, discard them , unless u r bandaiding things, jus mho
I am happy to help any time if u have questions.
714-879-9671/David.


Thank you sir! Your suggestion on replacing parts that look damaged or worn is right where I was thinking. I just wasn't sure if the minor nicks in the top of the piston was too much or not. They can catch your fingernail, but not much deeper than that.

I've decided to go with an LT4 Hotcam since Summit Racing is right down the road, its in stock and I need assembly lube, bearings, gaskets, etc.

Another question - I probably should have the balance at least checked on the current crank. All the smooth places are nice and mirror finish so there does not appear to be any wear. OK, enough of that on to the question. Bob weight = piston, rod, pin, clips, rings, nuts, bolts - Correct? or am I missing something?

Posted on: 2012/1/23 14:48
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Re: The 383 "freshening" has begun
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I'm class limited on rwhp, but not torque
Any more than that I'm in the spend a ton of money to run mid-pack, two tons to run at the pointy end.

Yea, I'm holding off on the final piston decision until the block is checked.

Only problem with the AFR heads is the $$$$. I have two sets of heads on the shelf that just need cleaned up and new springs. I can live with leaving a little on the table.

Posted on: 2012/1/22 13:24
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The 383 "freshening" has begun
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Well the step-son got a bug in him and he pulled it all apart! I got piles and bags of parts and a bare block.

Initial observations:
When the cam sprocket and timing chain broke the valves in a few cylinders look like they tapped the piston tops.

So I've got a few pistons with little dings in them.
Question number 1 then is do I go ahead and clean these up or could the tops be weakened enough I should just replace them?

Cam looks ok if I was building a street engine, couple of gouges and worn spots.
Question number 2 what cam to replace it with?
Remember goals are 350 rwhp/ 5000 rwtq (yea I know the torque number is impossible. I just want max torque with my rwhp restriction)
Heads and valves - I think its repairable, I'll probably be ahead of the game getting one of the sets of heads on the shelf fixed up instead.
Question number 3 using 1.6 RR, what springs, shims, keepers etc should I get? Remember this will live at 3K - 6K rpm almost the entire time its running.

I'm taking the block to the machine shop to be cleaned and checked. I'll figure out from there if I have to have any real work done.

And it begins - plan is to have it together by mid-March and in the car before Easter.

Posted on: 2012/1/22 2:19
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Re: Just letting you know Banski MotorSports is still here
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Wish I could afford the points these would cost me
I'm still fiddling around with things though and may find the points.

It ain't the $$$ its the points for a NASA time trialer.
These are on my real short list after a real seat and harness.

Posted on: 2012/1/4 15:53
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Re: Engine rebuild - what tools do I need
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Good news is the 383 already has the hub and balancer off of it. The crank in it is keyed, and is a later LTx so I don't have some of the issues a 92 LT1 would have.

For an engine stand I was going to get one of the better HF ones. They have both of them set up and the one with a single leg does not evoke confidence.

Posted on: 2011/11/25 14:35
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Re: Engine rebuild - what tools do I need
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Quote:

rklessdriver wrote:
As far as TQ wrench, I suggest a Proto, Snap-On, MAC or Matco. Matco and Proto are probally the lowest priced of those.


Where do you find those? A store I can walk into?
Website?

James

Posted on: 2011/11/23 15:52
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Re: Engine rebuild - what tools do I need
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My current set of hand tools (wrenches, sockets, etc.) can take things apart and put things back together.

My torque wench is HF and probably only good for lug nuts now, its a year old. So assuming I can afford a good mid-price torque wrench - what brand should I look at?

I'm looking for a build sheet template. That seems like a great idea!

Posted on: 2011/11/22 14:57
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Re: Intake oil leak
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Why would you spend $400 to replace the intake gasket?
Its not that hard,Bill laid out the procedure. the gasket and rtv or right stuff isn't that much.

And its a dry intake so you don't have to mess with draining coolant.

I've always used the rtv that came in the gasket kit, clean the china walls real good and put on the rtv, give it a couple minuts, slap on the intake, torque the bolts. Give it 12 hours, double check torque and attach everything else back on. I have not had an intake leak yet.

Posted on: 2011/11/21 16:20
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Engine rebuild - what tools do I need
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OK, I've decided my first forray into V8 rebuilding will be the 383 that threw a lifter into the cam sprocket.

Taking stuff apart - I can do it.
Just throwing it back together and torquing stuff - I can do it.
An engine rebuild that I want to last - is not a throw it together project.

So I need a specialized tool list for putting it back to gether getting all the clearances right. Any heavy machine work will not be done in my garage. If I can take a dremel to it - no problem, just suggest the best bit to do it and show me a picture of what it should look like and I can come close to matching it.

I'll ask about parts after I pull it apart and figure out what has to be replaced.

Posted on: 2011/11/21 16:02
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Re: [Stupid Question #??] How Hard To R&R The Power Antenna?
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For an 85? Not 100% sure but if it is anything like my 88 was its not hard, just time consuming.

Do you need to replace the entire motor assy or just the antenna mast?
Just the mast nothing hard has to be done, just get the nut and antenna retainer off, activate the antenna, capture all the pieces it throws out put the new one in and activate the antenna a few times and put the nut and retainer back in place. The replacement antenna I got many years ago had the details with it.

For the motor you'll need to remove the left rear tire, inner fender and then you can get to the motor.

Posted on: 2011/11/15 14:44
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Re: Rear bearing failure: tapered roller
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Thank you for the part number. I could never find it with a regular search

I'll add it to the off season parts list.

Posted on: 2011/11/12 18:38
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Re: [video] Got the car Dynoed
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BrianCunningham wrote:
Right I can adjust the height with thw coilovers

But the tired will hit the fender if I go any lower


Will it hit the fender if the tire was forced up?
Yes = gotta chop and mold in those flares. there was a recent ressurection of an old C4 flare post in the autocross section over there.

I'm gonna leave mine alone and stick with 275 wide tires. Especially next year when I might see the track 5 weekends

Posted on: 2011/11/11 3:41
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Re: [video] Got the car Dynoed
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Wait a minute - you have coil overs - right?
You can run it lower, but you'll need to tinker with it to find out what it likes.

Until you have data from a bunch of runs I'd leave it alone for now and fix the steering column. If you go aftermarket and ditch the stock column we need PICTURES!

Posted on: 2011/11/10 13:46
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Re: Rear bearing failure: tapered roller
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CentralCoaster wrote:
Quote:

jaa1992 wrote:

Thats what happened to my tapered bearing - failed inside seal and boom, nut Really loose.
I don't have the cotter pin in mine cause the covers are gone.


I don't understand... why not? because they look tacky? Those cotter pins might save your ass someday IMO. I don't run centercaps, needless cosmetic crap!


I just lost them
Many moons ago at a track event when one of the bearings was going (It was either the OEM or the set before the tapered) and I had to make one run. I pulled the covers off, tightened the crap out of the axle nuts and promptly lost the covers. Ran my one run and drove it the 40 miles home and replaced both bearings. Can't find the things anywhere

Posted on: 2011/11/10 13:36
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Re: Rear bearing failure: tapered roller
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CentralCoaster wrote:
I disagree. The nut on this one didn't move. The bearing failed and collapsed on itself, which unloaded the nut.

At first I saw the nut was loose... but it was just an indicator of a failed bearing.

The nut should really never come loose, it's held in with a cotter pin. That rotating portion of the bearing is a solid piece. It should never, ever, change in dimension to allow the nut to unload. It's not like other wheel bearing types where the nut preloads the bearing. Bearing wear should not cause the nut to unload.


Thats what happened to my tapered bearing - failed inside seal and boom, nut Really loose.
I don't have the cotter pin in mine cause the covers are gone. When I installed the NOS bearings I torqued the nut to 165. After the event it had just enough play I could feel it. Did some research and found 200 is a better number.
Torqued to that spec and even though I check it before durring and after track events I haven't had to tighten it and it has no play.

Posted on: 2011/11/7 13:43
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Re: EGR Code 32
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On my LT1 I was able to use a gearwrench on the two bolts.
On your L98 I'm pretty sure you have to remove the plenum.
Not a lot of fun

Posted on: 2011/11/3 22:05
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Re: Rear bearing failure: tapered roller
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One thing I found was to check the torque on the axle nut often.
After putting in the NOS bearings I found after one event my passenger nut had backed off enough to need re-torquing.
So now I check before putting it on the trailer and each morning at an event.

I've lost the castellated covers long ago, but I don't think they would help much.

Posted on: 2011/11/3 22:00
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Re: Rear bearing failure: tapered roller
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bogus wrote:
yea, the taper was supposed to deal with lateral loading better... in theory.

It could be the inherent design of the bearing hub is the problem, or these are junk. I can't assess which and it would be unfair to cast blame without further empirical evidence. A lot of folks are still running on these units and this is the first failure; a track failure at that.

I would have to call it an aberration unless more start to fail all at the same time.

I just got a pair of Tommy Morrison surplus rear bearings with Mobil 1 synthetic grease in them. The M1 grease is supposed to help them live longer by not breaking down into waxes and losing lubrication ability. For $100 each I will give it a shot.


Not the first failure of these. I thought I posted something early last year (or maybe it was the other forum) where mine went after just a few trackdays. On mine it was the passenger side and I replaced both with NOS AC/Delco.
So far those have held up for a couple seasons.

Posted on: 2011/11/1 20:15
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Re: For those of you who refuse to go to the track until you upgrade your car...
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SpectatorRacing wrote:
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BillH wrote:
70% of the first timers don't even check their tire pressure.


Lucky for them I do before I get into the right seat...


I try to track my students down between the all hands meeting and their first classroom session cause I won't sit in the right seat until they can tell me thier tire pressure, what kind of tires, what the lug nuts are torqued too and what brake pads they have on thier car.
If they don't know I'll break out my tire gage and torque wrench.

Posted on: 2011/11/1 19:58
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Re: To dry sump or not to dry sump that is the question
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bogus wrote:
Brian Cunningham went down the road of dry sump... and found that it would cost cubic dollars to do it! It was going to be expensive... for some reason $4k+ is stuck in my head, but I could be wrong. Ask'm or wait for his input. He is auto crossing, so technical is the order of the day.

I would think a canton RR pan, with a cooler and dual remote filter (all those hoses add to the oil capacity) and the accusump should about fix everything...

Are you keeping A/C? IF not, you gain a ton of space in the airbox, but an oil cooler will still fit up there easily.


$4K is the tip of the iceburg

I had started to accumulate the parts for an oil cooler setup. AC is long gone so yea right there in the airflow to the radiator is where it is going to go.

Is a remote filter really required?

So road race pan and accusump are on the new list.

Posted on: 2011/10/24 18:54
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