Hi new guy here.My 94 blew the high pressure steering hose.So I went to replace the hoses and find its pure heck trying to get to the flare nuts on the gearbox.I'm looking for any ideas.I went and bought a set of metric flare nut wrenchs and tried using and didnt fit.Then I bought a set of flare nut clawfoots.I got in with a swivel and clawfoot but the nut is on so tight I couldnt turn it.So I leaned into it and it slipped and messed up the nut.I cut the lines out of the way thinking next I could get a 18mm socket on them.But because of the gearbox angle you cant.My next idea is to take a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut the nuts off to possibly relieve the pressure and then use an extractor to get the remaining threads out.Another thought I had was to break the shaft from the gearbox and unbolt the rack from the frame and rotate enough to get the nuts full horizontal.Last resort is pull the rack but stll even after that is getting the rack back in with the hoses attached. What I'm looking for here is someones past experience with this nightmare.My vette mechanic says its a job way over my head and my thought is I dont feel like giving away a ton of money and I always have the mind that if its humanly possible I'm human and can do it too lol.Besides the fact I have the radiator hoses out and the lines gone and the belt and intake out.Cant really drive it to a shop.Thanks for any help here and I will be sure to share whatever I find works.

First off, Welcome to Corvette Guru!

I'm not the highest authority here by any manner but I have turned a few wrenches on my 94 over the years, so I'll offer some suggestions before the top guns get on board.

Although I don't have any specific experience with the PS hoses, as mine have come off more easily in the past and under different circumstances, I still do not believe you are in over your head here. He (your mechanic) should be offering you suggestions to help, not telling you that you can't. This is not a real a difficult job you are attempting, just one of the bumps in the road that is causing you some grief. I'm sure you have tried a penetrant like PB Blaster and such? Also, are you sure you have the correct size wrench on there.... I know these are dumb questions but I have been foiled by less. Have you tried using your swivel/claw-foot arrangement with a long extension and something to add leverage to the handle?

Welcome to the forum.

First, how bad is the nut screwed up?

A 5/8ths wrench fits a bit tighter on that nut than an 18.

Both those tube nuts are easier to get a wrench on and the leverage needed if you attack them from under the car. There's room to do it.

Also, the nut ia alum so heating it will help but I wouldn't use anything stronger than a propane torch (very carefully).

The dremel thing is possible but you really risk screwing up the threads on the rack.

I used a 3/8 extension 2 foot long with a 18mm clawfoot flare wrench.Used a swivel to get the claw to set flat.Then added a 1/2 drive to get more torque.It slipped off and chewed the nut.The nut on the pump was easy and I used hardly any effort to get it off.As for my mechanic its all about the money.lol

Didnt try attacking from the bottom good idea.As for the 5/8 size I tried it on the new hose to test fit and it was too small.I did get a 3/4 to fit nice and so did the 18mm.I agree cutting off the nut heads will be a risk but I'm thinking after I blow out the holes with air and use the extractor to remove threads.As for the nuts they sure look like a steel and seem way harder then alum.Thanks for the under idea.I'm going to give that a try too.

Someone on this forum showed how they used Vice Grips on the outside of the hose wrench to in essence squeeze the hose wrench "claw foot" a little tighter. You are past all that now...

But the heat is the answer at this point. And since you've cut the hoses, You can use the vice grips to grasp the nuts at this point....there is nothing to lose

I am negative to using heat even in a light ammount due to my concern of damaging internal seals in the gearbox or rack.But yes I'm forced to apply some method.

Quote:

The heat from a propane torch will be localized, just on the nut. It won't get even close to the seals. You'd only apply it for about a minute max. That won't even bring the rack up to the temp it sees with a hot engine.

Ok tried the PB and soaked the nuts for two days.Then went to remove and used heat and the nuts still dont move but I was able to strip one nut real good.So next is pull the rack and get the space I need to work.

Wow, that's unusual. Good Luck.

Post pictures when removing the rack!!

I have to replace the high pressure line and the pump on the 92 by the end of August.

My experience with PS hoses on Vettes is remove the PS pulley to get clear access to the fitting. I've done a few 91's not sure if there is big change from your 94. While your at it replace the hose. I use Locktite to secure the threads. Rock Auto I use for HP hoses, prefect fit every time and a good price.

it takes a metric crowsfoot

I waited until my engine was out and let the shop do it.

I bought a full set of craftsman metric flare nut clawfoots and wrenches.And had a good bite on the nut but it just wont break free.Also Vetron I already have the pulley off and that connection at the pump just came right off no issue.And yea I'll try to do pics.It looks pretty straight forward to remove the rack.I do have to pull the end links and two brackets holding it in then slide out the side.The rack doesnt drop down according to the book.And yes I got the factory books lol.Thank god I had enough sense to get them when I bought the car.And yes I have all the hoses to replace because I'm not doing this again.