such fun. It's been 60k+ miles since I was in there, did ujoints in 2004, and rear bearings in 2001 or 2002. Don't remember.

Either way, the rear bearings are done and I might as well do the ujoints.

As usual, one tool short and a can of pb blaster away. Off to the junk parts store for the blaster and a couple of cheap 8mm 6 point 3/8" drive sockets.

I would like to find the moron who thought it was a good idea to use torx bolts to hold in the rear bearings.

I think my right front wheel bearing is still original... 114k isn't too bad.

Bearings? u-joints?

yes, Thomas...

and I am glad I am doing them... the biggest problem? Those damned little 8mm bolts that retain the ujoints? Their junk... and getting them off sucks... next? finding replacements... should be so damned much fun.

Check the C4 common parts list

U-JOINTS
GM:
Half shaft: 89049301
Drive shaft: 89049306

Neapco (brute force) - Advance Auto:
Half shaft: 2-0617BF (for aluminum/no zerk)
Drive shaft: 1-0626BF (for aluminum/no zerk)

Spicer:
Half shaft/non-greasable: 5-799X/1350 series
Drive shaft/non-greasable: 5-785x/1310 series
(there has been debate over whether or not the 5-800X/5-786X with anti-galvanic coating has been discontinued. If you find them, those are supposedly better/correct #)

Spicer Strap kits:
Series 1350 M8x1.0 part #3-70-48X

After squirting and heating the rusted bolts on my Caprice for several days, I came to the conclusion that I'll let a pro tackle it because I know I'd end up with broken bolts.

I have one to get free on the left side. The right side has been PB blasted over night.

Precision Ujoint also makes the bolt strap kit. I will update with the part number when I check the box!

Don't worry about the strap kit... the screws are not right.

The yokes require an M8 1.0 19mm. And the screws in this kit are 5/16x24... oopsie...

The NAPA computer was wrong... I should have checked the screws, and the tell tale hash marks would have shown me they were grade 8 standards, not 10.9 metric.

Figured out how to press on my new wheels studs.

Quite easy, really. I use my 12 ton press and a big, heavy 30mm, 1/2" drive socket as an anvil to support the bearing as I press the stud in. Did 5 studs in 5 minutes.

I expect the car to be back on the road by Sunday.

What was wrong with the studs? Stripped out?

no. the new bearings included studs, just not installed. So I had to press them in.

All back together. Much tighter and much quieter. The roar from the back is far better. I wasn't 100% sure if it was tires or the bearings, but after seeing the play in the bearings... well, they needed to be replaced. Same with the ujoints.

All is good and this funky hop I had going in reverse is gone, too.

Next up, new tires and then an alignment.

What brand did you go with?

Joel

Precision by Federal Mogul. Made in the USA.

I have used them before, very good ujoint and readily available at NAPA.

I'm surprised the studs were not pressed in. GM bearings are pressed in. Perhaps it's to cut down on the size of the box / shipping / storage, etc?

But glad that fixed the problems with the rear end!

Precision Bearings are assembled in the USA from parts made in India,China, and Taiwan. So they qualify for made in USA, but that is probably also why the studs were just loose in the box.

no jumping to conclusions, gents.

The ujoints were Precision.

The bearings were former Tommy Morrison racing bearings. They made a batch just for him some 20 years ago packed with Mobil 1 synthetics.

They are available... just have to know who to ask. The studs are out because he used over long racing studs.