BrianCunningham wrote:
The crossfire intake doesn't use the entire port.

Take a look here.

http://www.technovelocity.com/chevyha ... t_polish/port_polish.html

bogus wrote:
A piece of trivia ... what really killed the performance of the L83 wasn't the throttle bodies ... it was that damned intake manifold. The ports were half sized by the time they reached the intake ports!!! This requires grinding them out so that lost air flow can be found.

From people who have done this mod, the power increase is staggering. Embarrasses stock L98s!

EngineDoctor wrote:
Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
The crossfire intake doesn't use the entire port.

Take a look here.

http://www.technovelocity.com/chevyha ... t_polish/port_polish.html

Yup, hogging out those intake ports makes a huge diff.!Done it many times.Best bang for ur buck.

Durango_Boy wrote:
Quote:

EngineDoctor wrote:
Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
The crossfire intake doesn't use the entire port.

Take a look here.

http://www.technovelocity.com/chevyha ... t_polish/port_polish.html

Yup, hogging out those intake ports makes a huge diff.!Done it many times.Best bang for ur buck.

In their mind was that a way of choking the engine down for emissions purposes?

Durango_Boy wrote:
Quote:

EngineDoctor wrote:
Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
The crossfire intake doesn't use the entire port.

Take a look here.

http://www.technovelocity.com/chevyha ... t_polish/port_polish.html

Yup, hogging out those intake ports makes a huge diff.!Done it many times.Best bang for ur buck.

In their mind was that a way of choking the engine down for emissions purposes?

docwilcar65 wrote:
Here are some tips on doing this conversion: you can use any low rise SBC intake manifold you want to, I used a ZZ4 intake off a crate motor. Use a throttle bracket from a car that had a SBC and a carb, I used an edelbrock 8031 bracket and the stock factory accelerator cable and 700R4 TV cable work with no problems. If you use a holley or edelbrock(I used a 600 edel. carb you see in the A/C delete post) you will need a corrector bracket that bolts to the side of the carb for correct trans. operation. You can get this bracket from Summit or Jegs, I think Edel. part #57301. You will need a Mallory 4309 fuel pressure regulator to reduce fuel pressure from 15 psi down to 5.5 psi for the carb. You can use your stock factory fuel pump circuit. Hood clearance is tight but you can use a 2" air filter. Try to use a 1/2" carb insulator as the engine heat is very hot on these C4's and I had a problem with the fuel boiling in my carb when I shut the engine off and then restarted in 10 minutes or so. I put the 1/2" spacer on and no problems since then. You will see I have a 3" air cleaner on my set up, I installed a small cowl induction bolt on hood scoop for more clearance and to get rid of some of the engine heat(it works) and lets some cool air in. Forgot to mention that you will need to use any SBC pre computer distributor, I used a new Accel HEI unit and the factory 12v power and tach pigtails attach as before. You will have a much stronger running engine with the carb vs. stock set up. I also have no emission testing in my area so I have a true dual exhaust with no cat. I removed the smog tubes from the exhaust manifolds and brazed the holes shut. The factory stainless steel shorty headers are very efficient so spend your money elsewhere. I also used a Crane low lift 274H06 camshaft(.450 lift for stock heads and valve springs) 218-218 duration at .050 on a 106 LSA and just installed a set of Summit 152123 cast iron heads, an updated version of the old large valve Corvette HP heads from the 60's. $630 from Summit, complete with springs and screw in rocker studs. Just bolt on and go!

Ultraman wrote:


Do you have any pics of the finished engine bay....?