I just broke 3 sockets trying to remove bolts from a u-joint. Two were Craftsman and one SK.
So, before I waste a day looking all over for sockets, what length and drive size worked for you guys that have done this?
I was using a short 5/16 six point, 1/4 drive. These went on bolt head good, but they were not impact rated.

Thanks
Joel

I think I've seen 12 point bolts in u-joints - old Jeep CJ-7's...

That's one vette part that I'm unfamiliar with.

As long the SOCKETS are breaking, and not the bolt rounding off bolt head???

These are 6 point for sure. Yea, two sockets split down the middle and the other lost a chunk out the side. I'm sure it's going to take a impact rated socket.

Joel

See if this helps...


Tired of a lurching, squealing ride? Corvette U-Joints might be the answer. View this email in your browser
Mid America Motorworks 800.500.1500 | mamotorworks.com
Replacing Corvette U-Joints
The U-Joint, or universal joint, transfers the motion of your Corvette engine to the wheels and compensates for alignment changes when it's not possible to make a straight connection from the drive shaft to the wheels. Most U-Joints are permanently lubricated these days to ensure proper function, and those that aren't will let you know with noise and vibration if there's trouble brewing. Mid America Motorworks gives you the tips to ensure a smooth ride and steps to replace your U-Joints.
The Importance of U-Joints
If it's time to replace your U-Joints, you'll get some quick indicators. This is because U-Joints work together as a team. When you notice squeaking, vibrations and lurches in your once-smooth ride, it's probably the U-Joints.
When U-Joints fail, it can damage the drive shaft, the yoke on the differential, and the yoke, tail shaft, and output shaft of the transmission itself. Routine maintenance and lubrication of the U-Joints can greatly extend the life of the joint and save you the time of having to replace parts more often than necessary.
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Quick Tips to Check U-Joints
• Listen carefully to your Corvette as it is moving. Take note of any squeaking or metallic sounds, as these can indicate a dried out or is under-lubricated U-Joint.

• Any vibration caused by a worn drive shaft U-Joint is usually an indication that the U-Joint is close to failure. If you detect a vibration, do not dismiss it.

• While stopped in a driveway or parking lot with the engine running and your foot on the brake, shift the car from park into reverse. Listen for a clunking or banging noise as it goes into gear. You will often feel it jump when it bangs, indicating a loose U-Joint.
U-Joint
• Park on flat ground and shut the engine off. When the car is safely parked, try turning the drive shaft and note any play in the U-Joints of the shaft. Loose joints can allow the shaft to move a quarter-inch to as much as a half-inch in either direction when turned.

• Insert a large, flat screwdriver into the yoke that connects the drive shaft to the transmission yoke or differential yoke. Try turning the shaft by pushing up or pulling down on the screwdriver. Note any movement in the shaft that would indicate a loose joint.

• Inspect the U-Joints using a flashlight. Look into the yokes for chipped or broken bearing caps, rust or missing bearings and retaining clips. These signs are indications of a severely worn U-Joint.
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Types of U-Joints
Greasable U-Joint Pro:
Can be re-greased to ensure the best function. They are typically re-greased on the same schedule as an oil change.

Greasable U-Joint Con:
The U-Joints are hollow in the center, which can compromise the integrity of the joint in situations that can shock your drive train.

Standard vs. End Cap Grease Zerk:

A Grease Zerk is a metal fitting used to lubricate bearings under moderate-to-high pressure using a grease gun. Where a standard Grease Zerk is more difficult to access without removing parts, the End Cap Grease Zerk is positioned in a way to make it easier to re-grease the U-Joint and get back on the road.

Non-Greasable U-Joint Pro:
A non-greasable or sealed U-Joint is a solid piece and typically more durable than the greasable kind.

Non-Greasable U-Joint Con:
No access or ability to add grease to the U-Joint
end cap grease zerk and non-greasable u-joint
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Your Next Weekend Project
U-Joints should be routinely greased and inspected for signs of wear. A damaged or worn U-Joint can fail and cause severe or even catastrophic damage to your Corvette. Replace factory U-Joints with high-quality aftermarket joints for regular maintenance and longer service from each joint.
Keep in mind that because Corvettes have Independent Rear Susupension, the U-Joints are laid out a little differently.
corvette diagram
Replacement is relatively simple for the garage mechanic, with only a few basic tools required:
tools
Steps to Replacement:
1. Back your Corvette onto ramps so that the rear of the vehicle is lifted off the ground. Engage the parking brake and put the transmission into park. Under the Corvette by the rear axle and gear housing, locate the U-Joint by finding the junction of drive shaft to the rear axle. The U-Joint sits between the two yoke ends of the drive shaft and rear gear housing.

2. Two U-Bolts loop over two of the four posts of the U-Joint. They lay over the cup bearings and are secured by two bolts that hold it in place to the rear gear yoke. Use a small wrench and hammer to break loose all four bolts before removing each one. Loosen all the bolts first; then continue to loosen and remove them. Two U-Bolts have four fasteners that secure the U-Joint in place. It is not a good idea to mix and match the U-bolt parts, so keep all matching fasteners together to go back to their original locations during installation. Pull the U-Bolts from around the cup bearings on the U-Joint.

3. Separate the drive shaft from the rear axle by pitching the U-Joint so that the end of the joint that has been freed from the rear axle yoke is pointed away from the rear axle, and the other is pointed closer to the rear axle. Put the vehicle in neutral and turn the drive shaft by hand.
u-joint
4. As the drive shaft is turned, the position of the free cup bearings will allow for the drive shaft to turn away, and out, from the rear gear yoke. When free, hold the end of the drive shaft above the rear gear yoke and pull the drive shaft out of the back of the transmission. Once free from both the rear gear yoke and the back of the transmission housing, take the drive shaft to the work bench where there is a vise to work with.

5. Extract the U-Joint from the end of the drive shaft yoke by first removing the fasteners that hold it in place. Some yokes secure the U-Joint into position using snap rings that fit inside the yoke at the top of an installed cup bearing and do not allow it to exit. Another yoke clamp that may be holding your U-Joint in place is a ring clamp. You need to either use the screwdriver to get the snap ring out or a pair of pliers to release the pressure of the ring clamp that holds the U-Joint into the drive shaft yoke without nuts or bolts.
6. Squeeze out the cup bearings that are holding the U-Joint in place after the clamps are removed from the yoke. It takes a great deal of pressure to push a U-Joint cup bearing out of its seat in a yoke, but it can be done with a table vise and two sockets. Get one socket that is smaller than the opening of the drive shaft yoke that allows access to the top of the bearing, and another that is bigger than the opening on the other side of the yoke for the bottom bearing to be pushed into.

7. First position the small socket inside the vise, then the yoke with the universal joint, then the large socket. As you tighten the vise, you will push one cap down and out with the smaller socket. You will also be pushing the other end of the universal joint out of its seat.
u-joint
8. Replace the U-Joint with new cup bearings or a whole new joint. To seat the bearings in place, grease the new U-Joint and cup bearings and insert the joint into the two openings that the bearing cups will be seated. Place one bearing cup on the joint and insert it into the seating hole. This cap will be pushed up into the space using the other bearing cup on the outside of the yoke. Tighten the yoke and bearing cups together so that the outside bearing is pushed into the seat and onto the other end of the U-Joint. After the bearing seats onto the post, it will push the other bearing into place.

9. Use the small socket to continue pushing the U-Joint into position after the bearing has been seated inside the yoke and is even with the inside edge of the opening. The joint should be positioned so that the snap or ring fasteners can secure the U-Joint into position.

10. Get back under your Corvette and hold the drive shaft in position for insertion into the back of the transmission. Hold the yoke end of the drive shaft above the yoke of the rear gear and insert the spindle end of the drive shaft into the opening in the back of the transmission. Push the drive shaft in as far as it can go and then lower the yoke end of the drive shaft down to the yoke of the rear gear.

11. Pitch the U-Joint so that one cup bearing is pointed away from the rear axle and the other is pointed toward the rear axle. As the drive shaft is turned, position the loose bearing cups onto the yoke seats of the rear gear yoke. Replace the U-Bolts around the open cup bearings and tighten securely.

12. Place your Corvette in park and release the parking brake. Start the engine and drive off the ramps to complete the job. If you still experience vibrations or noise, lubricate or tighten the U-Joints where necessary.

That sounds unusual. Are you using a battery impact on the bolt?

I have some proto 1/4 impact rated sockets that might be thin enough to get in there. Something like that might work.

If it's that stuck, I'd try some pb blaster/etc and then heat.

As far as other sockets, I've had good luck with gearwrench - that's what I've switched over to for most of my sockets.

Good luck.

No impact tools, just grunt power. Haven't used any penetrating fluid yet, I will before going any further. Looks like I need to visit NAPA and check out their better sockets. I was just curious what type sockets any body had good luck with (such as deep well 3/8 drive? or just stick with 1/4 drive).

Thanks
Joel

When I did mine I used my regular craftsman sockets and had no issues. It's a pretty small socket size in general for those bolts. I'd figure it's more that they are seized in than the socket of choice.

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Exactly, Joel if you're breaking sockets, the answer is not a bigger hammer. If you find a really strong socket and all it does is break the bolt, you'll have a much bigger problem.

I use PB Blaster but it takes time for it to work and some times multiple applications. An impact driver sometimes helps get the penetrant into the threads. And it may loosen up the seized threads. A too powerful driver could also break the bolt.

You could use PB, let it sit for at least 24 hours and try the socket. IF the bolt won't break loose, stop and use more PB overnite.

Personally, I'd use heat on the flange (not the bolt), propane will work but takes some time, a Mapp Gas torch is much better (about the same price at HomeD as propane).

I also just got some of this but haven't had a chance to try it. Guys on the other forum say it really works.

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And the u-joint bolts should be 8mm. I wonder if someone cross threaded them?

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The FSM has the bolt head as 8mm, but lots of folks use a 5/16. Not saying it's correct but real close.
8mm=.3149
5/16=.3125
What really pizzed me off was, all the sockets I broke were 20+ years old with NO hard use. I was counting on the "old" sockets to be a better quality than what is sold today.

I'm just going to try some impact 3/8 drive sockets and penetrating fluid, heat as required.

I'll update in a few days.

I don't think they're cross threaded, two bolts backed out OK. Just stuck real tight.

Thanks
Joel

I killed a Craftsman 8mm socket, as well as an 8mm Gedore which is considered one of 3 or 4 of Germany best brands.
Ended up using a no name 6 point 8mm box wrench and a large hammer.
Try this, won't get much better:
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-8m ... ombination/p-00942865000P

Wrench is a good choice if you can get it in there and space isn't an issue.

I did mine about a year and a half ago. I used hand tools and removed the axel stub along with the half shaft only removing the straps on the differential while under the car.

I bought both a regular 6 point and a deepdrive 6 point in 8mm and 5/16" sizes 3/8" drive sockets for the project. Pretty sure it was the 5/16" that fit the bolts as the one socket also broke for me and I remember going back to Ace Hardware to exchange it. I only have 1 Ace Hardware socket and that one 5/16" is the only 1 I have. I counted it up to a bad socket as it split immediately on the first bolt.

I just jacked it up, rehooked the spring and loosened a couple of suspension parts then went after the inner U-Joint straps on the diff. Rolled the shaft so the bolts were on the upper side, deep drive socket, extension and a 3/8" breaker bar. Hit the end of the bar with the heal of my hand to shock it loose then it was turn it out. Once that was done, with the nut off the axel, pulled it out. 8 under the car, 8 more once the half shafts were out and then it was replace the u-joints.

I marked everything ahead of time and used Kroil on the bolts too. Only problem I ran into was when I dropped one of the bolts during reassembly and couldn't find it till late in the day. Be advised, if you drop one it's going to be a bear to find a replacement, I only found one thing locally at O'Reilly and they were the wrong bolt sizes. Throw a piece of carpet under where you're working so if you drop something it won't go skating all over the place.

Here's the thread I used for info: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144562
It covers more than just the U-Joints, so read the parts that apply and stop when needed.

I hope this helps.
I don't know if things are rusty under there, but if so, try mixing a good penetrant with some grease. Mix it to good paste that has plenty of penetrant, but will stay put. This keeps the fastener coated with penetrant and it won't dry out overnight, or if you miss spraying it for a day or two.
Of course, this works if you don't drive it. On a u-joint that spins, this will have a minimal effect. But if you can let it sit for some time, I've found this to be helpful.
Best of luck with the repair.

Thanks for all the replies and good suggestions! The weather turned too cold for me for a few more days.
It's no problem to let the car sit, that's what it's doing right now. I'm letting the Liquid Wrench work now.

That's a interesting idea of mixing some penetrant with grease, have never tried that.

Joel

Any progress on the U-joint?

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Thanks for asking, but I haven't done anything yet except spray the bolts down with penetrating fluid a few times. Cold weather moved in (at least cold to me) and this put a bad case of lazy on me!

Joel

FYI - They usually have Loctite on them... even the new bolts that come in the strap kits from SPICER have per applied Loctite.

MAP Torch is your best bet if they are really stuck in there. Be careful not to burn up the inner stub axle seal.....

I've never used anything special as far as sockets.... Craftsman and Stanley are what I have at the house.

Something I have found that helps is to rotate the half shaft around so that you have the socket on the bolt straight as possible but still in contact with the edge of the half shafts yolk... that way you can use it to stabilize the socket/ratchet/extension... Those little bolts can be a real pain to get out of there.
Will

Finally got all the half shaft u-joint bolts loose! It was a fight to the end.
Used a 6 point 5/16 socket 3/8 drive from O'Reillys. One of those GM logo Performance brands with a 3/8 to 1/2 drive adaptor. Used a small 5/16 boxed end wrench on the diff side with a 8" pipe extension.
I was so happy I quit for the day.

Thanks for all the replies

Joel

Glad you got it!

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Congrats. It's really fun laying on your back trying to get that stuff out but it feels so good when it's done ;-0

Paul

that's a lot of work!!! I wonder how long they have been on there?

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Not sure, I've had the car since 1997. They're not original as they had grease fittings. Car has 92k now.

Joel