I am thinking that outer edge wear on the right front tire is trying to tell you something. Any sign of cupping on the edges.

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The inside of the Half shaft is moving and was the area that was moving up and down before I changed the U-joints.

I edited my earlier response, it is the Right Rear tire (same side as the bad half shaft) that wore real quickly.

Yes the wheel bearing is bad enough to me needing to be changed. And if you have another wheel bearing....that will save me $100 bux this month for sure. If you are ready for another Lunch, I'll make a trek down that way to meet up...that would be huge for me.

I still have questions about the rakrakRAKRAKRAKrakrak noise.

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no, none of that. I wish I could see by the tire wear a "hopping"....that would give me a direction.

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Sure. Bring it down and I'll even install it for you.

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The inboard end of the halfshaft shouldn't be wobbling if you replaced the ujoint, and did it properly.

If the stub axles on the diff were wobbling that bad, it'd be leaking like a sieve from the seal on that side.

^^aaahhhhh!!! See that is the smoking gun I was looking for. I'm scared as shit that it is the Dana36 coming apart. I guess the noise could be running up the half shaft to the rear end. Both me and the 16 year old pointed to the rear end while listening for the rakrakrak.

The inside of the shaft....let's just say that half shaft is still wobbling just a tad. but not like it was at all before. The other half and the DS are smooth as silk as they spin. It has to be the Right Rear.

I'm all for attacking the Rear wheel bearing fist to see if we get some of that wobble to disappear.

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Speaking of which, What are your plans this weekend? If you have time I'll try to come down and bring some dinner and adult beverages for you and whoever else may be hungry.

If you don't have time, I'll still come down and grab that bearing from you.

I will be replacing the half shaft ujoints this weekend as well as the control arm bushings and this thread has been very helpful, lots of info. Your last post was the 25th, problem solved?

No, he needs a new rear end or at least a bearing in there.

Maybe it isn't, "problem solved", but at least it has been identified.

RACE ON!!!

Well, let's be specific, the u-joint was gone, but that was due to the Rear end Short Axle bearing being out of tolerance. (see my other thread on that topic "Dana 36 Guru")

As far as replacing the u-joints....And ONE of my clanks is gone.......That issue is solved and had it been the only issue, these guys would have solved it for me...So thank you all for your help.

If you are doing the half Shafts then this thread should help you. And I'd just like to restate. I made more out of it than I should have.

Going back, the only thing that could be considered "dicey" is the re-installation of the shaft itself. The Caps of the u-joint can fall off and the needle bearings fall out. I didn't do this, but I could see how it could happen pretty easy.

Other than that single issue, use the "big" tools and pry that sucker out....Bang the old u-joints out and put the new ones in.

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I did take the shaft outside and cleaned it very well after the u-joints were removed. That made things nicer to work on.

The yokes are aluminum which makes moving the u-joint very easy. One swift hit with the hammer and it was almost out.

I did wind up with the Zirk fitting u-joints....the went in just fine with no issues.

When Buying the u-joints there are only two sizes (thanks CentralCoaster). You need the larger one.

Finally, I am glad this thread helped someone.

Funny, It takes me about 20 minutes to take loose both half shafts at this point.

I was having the clutch pack replaced in the D36 and I wanted to update this thread do to that.

Take the two Crown nuts off of the spring and Ball joint...Take the 8 strap bolts off the u-joints, use your foot and push the hub outwards and watch the half shaft fall out. Takes about 45 minutes for both. Take the rear wheels off and use the really long extensions to reach in for the inside u-joint strap bolts. Have your kid or wife sit inside and hold the brake as you break the bolts loose and use your drill to spin those long suckers out...then tell your assistant to let go, so you can rotate the rotor to line up the next bolt.....then they hold it again or pull the E-brake.

Oh, and my vibration is still there...has to be bent wheels.

The D36 is rebuilt, The tranny is rebuilt, CC put two bearings in the rear hubs, all the u-joints are new....

Still vibrates at speed....and I am still hunting...