Wow, if you cut it off, you will most likely have to take the gear box apart.

I am trying to think how that mast comes out. I will look when I get home and see if I can find out for you. Theres got to be a way.

At the Museum. Anyone here going? I am going to try to go down and and get some photos to show off for those who can't go.

Welcome!!!!

Everyone is allowed to post pics, but we don't host them. You have to have you own host.

And by the way..there are 5 mods and 310 members....I don't see your calculations???

Dude, that is cool! I wish I can talk about reation times and so forth, but I ahve never raced at the track. We have a 1/8th mile around here, but it doesn't seem like it would be the same as a 1/4 mile when comparing performance.

Awesome that you brought home some trophies!

haahahah...I don't know who that guy is. I found him on the net and liked it and thought it went with the "technical" theme.

Thats tight!!!

are doing a great job bringing new people over here. The last two months have been a record for us as far as visitors.

We have two new articles ready for posting, but I am just waiting for bogus to finish two more right quick. We are hoping to get new articles up every two months or so. So stay tuned!

Sweet! I'll keep you in mind!

Yeah go ahead and send it to me. I may be able to snap some pics for it.

Believe me, I was bummed too that it all wouldn't transfer over, but it was something that needed to be done. It seemed like the forum feel flat on it's face after that and we have been chasing it ever since.

We hope to make some more changes here soon.

As far as your article, do you have pics along with the tip? If so, email the stuff to me

bruthish@aol.com

I will set it up and get it posted.

I agree with you guys too. I was just observing that. I like the GS though, but I wish I had the ZR-1 in my Garage!

WOw...thanks SJW! Glad to have your input...you need to come around more often!

No problem! Common problem. You may want to mark where the headlight is attached to the frame so they go back in the same exact spot.

Good Luck!

Somewhat easy fix, and its cheap.

Inside the motor assembly there is a gear that is held in place by a "gel type" bushing. After time, it dry rots and turns to dust and the motor will no longer turn the gear.

Ecklers sells the new nylon bushings for $4.95/side(at least it was that price a while back). It was best for me to take the whole headlight assembly off to take the motor apart. Once that is done, and you take the motor apart, you will see where the bushings go. Very easy.

You can have it all done in just a couple hours.

Good luck! and welcome to the guru!

Welcome to the guru!

That 16 people have voted for their favorite C4 and no one has chosen the Grand Sport yet.

I have replaced many brake rotors and pads and I have NEVER replaced the cailper bolts. You can if you want to be "on the safe side". But they do not come with the rotors or pads. You can get them from a place like Autozone or
NAPA.

If it were mine, I would just inpect them and clean them real good.

Yep, it's all about personal preference on the fluid. I have never used a synthetic brake fluid, so don't have the experience with it. I am ok with using what has been recommended by GM.

Let us know how it goes!

First, welcome to the guru! Hope you enjoy the stay!

OK, Brakes.....hopefully we will get an official tech tip up soon on it.

First, I would use what has been recommended by GM in the system which is DOT 3 or Delco Supreme II.

Second, I have never had a problem getting the bleeder valve loose, but it may not be a bad idea to spray some penetrating oil on it if there is rust in the area.

You will only have to bleed the system, however, if air gets into it. You can change the pads without "opening the system".

You will need just a large C-Clamp and some wrenches.
Remove about half of the fluid from the master cylinder. Put the lid back on. Take your c-clamp and carefully position it against the back of the caliper with the other end against the opposite pad. Its hard to describe, but what you are doing is pushing the piston back into its hole. When you do this, its going to push the fluid back in the master cylinder(thats why we took some out).

You will have to use two wrenches to get the calipers off, one on the nut and one on the guide pin. There are two bolts. Once that is done you can pull the caliper away and replace the pads.

It has always been my practice, whether needed or not, to buy new rotors or have the old ones turned. If you elect to have them turned, make sure you mark how they came off exactly, so they go back on the same way.

Put the calipers back on, tightener up, and add new fluid. Slowly pump the brakes to get the pads back next to the rotors. You shouldn't have to bleed.

As for the types of brakes, I would get the best you can afford. The better ones emitt less dust and are quiter.

Good luck!

The menu page is up. Now I just need to get the actual specs up. 1984, 1985 and wheel specs are up now.

The Vette Top 100 has reset its rankings for the new year. So, we would much appreciate it if everyone would take a moment to click the link to the left and give us your vote!!

Thanks!

They look great! How do they sound?

Hello once again! We have passed our 1 year mark and have had some good success. 2006 will be the year that we push forward and evolve into being your technical source for all C4 vettes.

You may already have noticed some changes in the last few days. One thing I am working on is getting the technical library built. This is where all the past issues will be stored. Bogus and myself are working deligently to get this accomplished and getting new info to you.

If you have any suggestions, please let us know!

I have a friend who had what sounds like the exact same problem in his RS Camaro. He changed out the ECM with one he had gotten from Ebay and it did the same thing still. He ended up changing and replacing a gazillion different items trying to track the problem down. Make a long story short he had a mechanis tell him to put the old ECM back in and then it worked fine.

I will get a hold of him to see if ever found out what the actual problem was.

Your right, those are not the same ones...but close. Mine have the round outlets and not the square.

I have the standard ones...they have the chrome tips and the red insides.

I will say this...they sound really good. However my reservations are that they rust pretty easily. Mine started rusted within the chrome after about a year.

Second, I don't like the look of the from the rear. The red will be gone in no time and the baffel makes it look smaller than what they are. I have the 3" tips but with the baffle, it looks to be an inch and a half outlet. I wouldn't buy them again for that sole purpose. I thought about gutting them so they would be more like "eliminators", but I think it would be too much trouble.

If you do get them, go with the stainless steel ones....

I posted this in the "Chat" section too...


First off, welcome to C4guru!

I could be wrong here, but it sounds like your battery is bad and not your Starter. I would pull it out and have it tested. Or better yet, get it started and drive it to a place like Autozone and they should be able to do a quick test of it and the Alternator while it is still in the car.

If both of those turn out to be OK, and you want to pull the starter itself.....

It will be on the bottom of the passenger side of the block. It will be right where the engine and tranny meet. A novice could pull it out with a little patience...just remember to UNHOOK BATTERY FIRST!!! Those cable you pulloff will be live and if they touch metal....that could be bad!!

Good luck!

First off, welcome to C4guru!

I could be wrong here, but it sounds like your battery is bad and not your Starter. I would pull it out and have it tested. Or better yet, get it started and drive it to a place like Autozone and they should be able to do a quick test of it and the Alternator while it is still in the car.

If both of those turn out to be OK, and you want to pull the starter itself.....

It will be on the bottom of the passenger side of the block. It will be right where the engine and tranny meet. A novice could pull it out with a little patience...just remember to UNHOOK BATTERY FIRST!!! Those cable you pulloff will be live and if they touch metal....that could be bad!!

Good luck!

The Stock TPI Chokes at 4000-4500 rpm. Great for light-light racing but not good for highway or longer runs.

The Miniram is almost the opposite and that it brings alot of breathing in the upper range. But, unfortunately, some of the bottom end is lost and should be geared accordingly.

The superram seems to be the intake of choice because it has the best of both worlds and you will not lose the low end "grunt". There is alot of people who really prefer the Superram over the Miniram. In my observation, it is because the SUperram is taylored to street driving and the miniram is more for heavely modified engines.

Personally, I think the miniram looks much much better than the Superram.

I plan an intake swap next spring or summer and I will be going for the Holly Stealth Ram myself. The main drawback is that it won't fit under a stock hood. I think the look is bad-azz and the performance is up there also. The other issue is that it doesn't have a EGR provision.

Naw...My vette takes second priority to the house, my wife, and work. I wish I could flip all those around. If I have time to fix it, then I don't have the money. If I have the money, then I don't have the time. Really bites.

Looks like over that now!

Welcome to C4guru!

Almost a year....just not promoted very much...Welcome though!

It's up now...sorry it took so long....I will trying to add some new material to it also.

sorry guys...partly my fault...I have been working on another site...I see people have been signing up..just not much to look at. I will be working on getting the rest of the content up. I know Andy's been real busy too.....but you all need to give him a swift kick in the but to get some more of those articles done.

Hello everybody,

As you can see there are no post on the site. I am still trying to figure out a way to get the old posts over here.

This new forum software has some great advantages for the future. Everything will be easier to update plus it looks much better than the old one (in my opinion).

I tried my best to get everyones username and password over here. Some of the usernames were not usable so I either left them out or changed them so they would work. If yours is not working please see "Member's List" to the left and try to find your name. I will also be giving everyone's post count back so they won't have to start from scratch.

Any suggestions would be highly appreciated!