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Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  ZF6
A 6-speed manual transmission, standard from 1989 to 1996.

Very stout.

There are two distinct versions, the original “Black Tag,” 1989-E1...
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   All Posts (mseven)


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Re: delete EGR? other intake change questions
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I don't think it is a problem deleting the EGR, however additional timing and fuel tweaks should be done in the tune.

Posted on: 2009/5/13 17:51
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Re: Car is running great, public thanks to Mseven
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CFI-EFI wrote: Josh & Mseven... quite a combination. RACE ON!!!

not to sound cheesy but:
The thing that comes to mind is that if someone told me 5 years ago I would have made so many different friends from these boards I would have had a hard time believing it. Guys like yourself, Josh, Ron (cuisinart), Andy (here), Chris (notorious), Doug (spankyellow), Craig (m.net), Patrick (tequila boy) into the sun/wipeout, and others, have become good friends over time. When I asked questions of others they unselfishly gave their time and helped me in areas that I wasn't astute or familiar. So to give something back is just the right thing.
Likewise thanks to all, who over time have contributed toward my endevoirs....and the beat goes on.

Posted on: 2009/5/5 17:13
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Re: Car is running great, public thanks to Mseven
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you are very welcome... no problem helping you out, it's good to hear the car running well. That's Very cool....

Posted on: 2009/5/5 1:20
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396c.i..... all mods
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Re: What household product can I use for a radiator flush?
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That doesn't sound like you, it might work but I'd wait. The best flush that ever seen/used was a two part grainular (acid and neutralizer) by dupont, I haven't seen it available in a long time though. The last time on my DD I used prestone HD.

Posted on: 2009/4/30 8:12
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Re: Tuning an 89
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I have heard that from others and read the same over there.
The ones I have here are 2 SD and 1 maf. It appears that they did some different things. These were all comped by a lower inj. constant (ex. 24# in car, 22.4 in the table). .
The only tables that were not stock were the timing and VE tables. VE in the SD's were changed but not in the maf tune. All started at 27.7 at 800 idle, 36 by 1400 etc. and were ramped decently. The max total was 30* above 4200 at wot/load. PE, AE, IAC etc.etc. were ALL stock tables.

Posted on: 2009/4/19 2:06
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Re: Tuning an 89
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Quote:

vetteoz wrote:
tune as you drive from laptop.When you are happy with tune( probally never ) you burn that tune on to a memcal and install in car.
Some of us have it installed in car permanantly because the tune is stored on the unit; the laptop is only the means of adjusting tune.

LOL, ain't that the truth
I became so sick of "ribbon" cables and usb's glitching (including interference issues) because of the ecm/apu-1 location I made a new cable. The apu-1 is now inside the car (90 and the connection speed is still good using a socket booster.
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/10n7yol.jpg[/IMG]
Quote:
Computer tuning is not the problem ; it is getting someone who knows MiniRams and their quirks
Many reported tuning problems with MR ; especially off idle lean out and popping .Some have even reported problems with TPiS out of the box tunes.

yes and yes, the tpis tune is typically quite rich, I have one here (stage 5 ) that I have checked out.
To the OP, I believe you will need to get involved w/ logging the car. There is nothing wrong w/making sure there are no mechanical issues, but more than likely the tune needs work. Everything regarding a tune, BLM, SK etc.etc. can only really be known in that method, anything else is only a guess. You can verify the TPS with a vohm meter and just make sure it can "sweep" up and down from .56 to 4.5 (typical voltage) smoothly.

Posted on: 2009/4/18 10:06
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Re: Tuning an 89
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BrianCunningham wrote:Mine was done in the car through the OBD port (OBDII style, running OBDI)
If you know a way of doing the earlier ones, that's news to me.

I know a way...this is what I use for tunning obdI 91 an earlier. It ties into the aldl and my laptop for real time tunning.
[IMG]http://i44.tinypic.com/308wpyx.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2009/4/18 2:59
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Re: Tuning an 89
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BrianCunningham wrote:
All 89's new the chip burned. Same for early LT1's
Later LT1's like mine got the computer you can tune with a laptop.

huh ??
all 87,88,89,90,91 can be done in car w/a laptop, later LT'S can be flashed outside of the car. I believe moates now has some hardware add-ons to be done w/a laptop in car.

Posted on: 2009/4/17 17:33
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Re: Tuning an 89
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first you need to record ata as the car is running, Datamaster tts or tuner pro are good choices. This will give you the info needed to determine were the fueling is at and for any tuner to make appropriate changes. "Popping" from the exhaust on de-cell usually indicates unburnt fuel, I would add some advance in the "closed throttle" table in the tune/prom.

Posted on: 2009/4/17 5:21
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Re: 383, TFS heads, XFI cam: Got it going this weekend
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Josh wrote:
Mseven from here is the master mind behind the tune.
Again, a huge thanks to him for all the help and advice through out the build. Being able to fire the car and go drive without having to fumble my way through a part throttle tune was great. Thanks again man.

you're welcome, it's good to see your project come together.

"You'll take the time to dial it in, you'll spend hours and hours on it, making it perfect. There isn't a tuner in the country that will do that for you".
true, and that is what had me get started tuning myself.

Posted on: 2009/4/14 11:46
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Re: Air Flow Research (AFR) 195's VS Trick Flow Specialties (TFS) 195's - Test within
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sounds good, better to be uneventfull and no big issues.

Posted on: 2009/4/13 13:09
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Re: Post of the day
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anesthes wrote:
when it comes to the REAL important thing - spark and fuel, they lay ignorant and expect the ECM to just 'do it'. So it seems with trends, the 'norm' is to spend thousands in parts and only make the car a little faster, where in reality a 'tuner' will probably spend less on an ideal combo and get the most he/she can out of it by providing the BEST AFR and advance curve. -- Joe


you mean the ecm can't compensate all on it's own ? If you have a maf car they are more forgiving to mods and then "you probably don't need a tune"........lol

Posted on: 2009/4/10 13:47
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Re: Need rear wheel bearings?
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Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:Though I may pull the trigger on the Summers Brothers 31 spline units after MTVette snapped his.

you might want to ask Josh if those can break.

I just bought some rear rotors from corvette recycler. They came in the original AC Delco marked/pakages and were as advertised. Took a few minutes to clean off the original grease oil on them which had hardened, but other than that were a good buy @20.ea.

Posted on: 2009/4/10 3:29
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Re: Post of the day
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Tuning was always black magic, the unknown art .....the reason is because most have never delved into tuning it themselves to understand what is involved, the state of the current tune and just how dramatic the effect/s can become. I also think in part it was due to the fact many believed MAF cars could comp. enough, and if a tune was really needed purchasing one from a reputable tuner would accomplish the goal....just plug and play.

Posted on: 2009/4/7 13:42
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Re: Pads, Rotors et all
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thanks for the compliments, it is appreciatted. Mick

Posted on: 2009/4/7 13:31
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Re: Pads, Rotors et all
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This is what I ended up doing, hawk hps pads, nos rear rotors, aftermarket fronts, and earl's lines (already had earl's bleeders). As soon as I get the rubber back on the rims I'll know more.
thanks to all for the suggestions and info.......Mick
[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/2mcztyw.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/15dl2dv.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i41.tinypic.com/mahuv5.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2009/4/5 4:24
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Re: Pads, Rotors et all
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once again thanks to all who posted, quite a bit of good info/advice.
Bill,
understood on bedding/break in. That is a bit different than "normal" and that is why I asked. I will look at some numbers of the fluid as well. As to rotors, I didn't realize there would stress/cracking issues with drilled rotors. (also in my comment to C.C.)

Andy,
I considered the upgrade, but I would need to take a longer look. Not only the bucks involved, but how much I would need to cut on the calipers to clear the 15" welds. As you may know I am not an auto x guy, (or a want to be on the e-ways). Some of things I do w/tuning (various iac controls, pulse width decay, timing etc.etc.)actually allows the car to stop normally, w/out any pulling, stall/surge etc.. Because I do not need to buy today I am going to take a look at it.

Central C.
It was always my understanding in the past when developing heat sinks etc. that allowing more surface area will increase heat disappation. That, and if the price was close was really the only thing that had me ask.
"Racy look"....I like that, I know many are about that kind of stuff. For me, No, actually I am into functional, low porfile understated, and clean look. Thanks though for empasisizing the importance, and the other results of brake bedding.

Posted on: 2009/3/29 17:58
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Re: Pads, Rotors et all
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Thanks to all for the responses, it is appreciatted,
Looks hawks are goin in...I am fine w/using stock rotors or replacing w/stock if needed. It's good to know the slotted stuff is not needed for my application.I can also get NOS for about 20 each, if they end up looking trashed.
I currently have some earl's speed bleeders and they work good. About the castrol, is the valvoline syn not considered good anymore ? I have about 3-4 quarts of it left, and I have always kept the fluid clean and clear.
Is the castrol to have higher dot rating or?
I wil also consider ss or the black ss russel lines. especially if they prove to have any cracks.

Everyone states about the seat in on the pads, is it that wild of a recommend from the mfg.?

Posted on: 2009/3/28 21:56
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Pads, Rotors et all
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Since I have the car up in the air waiting for the rims to come back from the powder coater I decided I'll go through the brakes before the season starts.

So I need some recomends on pads. An upgrade from stock is fine, but I don't want a super all metalic ultra trick creamic auto X er. Though it does need to be able to stop a modded car, the only track time it will see is the drag strip.

Mine are std. brakes, and while I'm in there if the rotors look a bit rashed I'll swap them out. Other than stock (from recycler) any reasonably priced drilled and or slotted ones out there? Please keep in mind I'm not interested in converting the entire system over (calipers et all to brembos etc.), I will still need them to fit 15" welds aside from my 17's.
TIA,
m7

Posted on: 2009/3/28 12:31
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Re: Anyone have experience with braided oil line failures?
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If you are using a regular 45* AN hose end, and after the fitting (male to female)is tightened you can still move the end then something isn't right. Usually being able to "clock" the end w/your finger would mean isn't tight enough or not mating properly to the male end. Even with the fittings off the hose, they are pretty stiff to turn, and after tightened they should not move at all. It is possible the farrow is trashed inside, or it is not seating on the male end properly (not much of the inside surface area of the male/female actually makes contact). Other things to be aware of with earl's hoses and fittings, are that most are specific to the type of line/hose being used.

The only problem I have had w/any braided line/s is being fuel compatable. I found that it was nessasary to use teflon core for fuel lines and pump gas. Pump gas was turning any version of rubber cores to mush (none are a barrier type line, despite what mfgs. claim are fuel compatable !!).

Posted on: 2009/3/28 12:07
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Re: Now taking orders on the renegade crossfire intake!
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85L98-84L83 wrote:33 rear wheel HP gain with just the intake manifold and all your stock components bolt right up to it.

from your post I take it you have tried this intake, have it on the car now, or ??
33 rwhp would be a significant gain, I own an intake that the original mfg. claimed was a 75-120hp. bolt on gain. While it is a good intake, the hp. claims are something else.

Posted on: 2009/3/26 12:51
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Re: Memcal - disconnecting the battery
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anesthes wrote:
get an emulator so you don't have to shut the car off.
Mick, Hows the beast? -- Joe

Joe,
how's it goin?
I agree on tuning w/an emulator...pretty much the only way. IMO
I put the car on a diet and added some new stuff over the winter. I'm just buttoning up some details now. Hopefully the weather is starting to break and this year I'll be driving it in the spring, instead of building until fall.
whats new w/yours?
Mick

to the OP...no quick disconnect here, just the old fashion way.....but that may change when I get the braille mounted in the back storage.

Posted on: 2009/3/17 18:49
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Re: Memcal - disconnecting the battery
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I use the 512 chips w/zif socket and it isn't necessary to unhook the battery when changing chips, the only time I disconnect when tuning is if I want to see what the tune does w/out any 'remembered' trim cells. The other is when I have to do regular work on it.

Posted on: 2009/3/17 6:58
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Re: L98 upgrade
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I agree those cams are pretty healthy for a 350 street car, if it were me I'd wait and see what I'm doing w/the bottom end, and what the heads end up at w/numbers. At that point (depending on rebuild cost of original short block)you may want to consider that crate 383's go for reasonble money these days.

Posted on: 2009/3/12 12:47
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Re: Radiator Hose wont fit...
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CentralCoaster wrote:
There are 3 different lower hoses for the L98.
One has a huge kink in it, one has a medium kink, other has basically no kink.
The kink is to clear the lower frame supports that were on convertible and Z51 cars. But these later became standard at some point. Many of the parts stores have the hoses listed for Convertible and Coupe. Buy the convertible one.

Is the one for vert the one that has the most "kink" or clearance for the cross bar frame support?
I never knew there were 3, I always cut about an 1" off them so they didn't rub on the cross frame support. I always just bought them from GM (jobber price) but recently they tell me the lower hose has been discontinued, so in the future I will have to go elsewhere.

Posted on: 2009/3/10 11:28
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Re: Flooded Problem: ECM/PCM function... what would happen if...
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Setting aside the possibilities of a sticking inj. 02/s being sluggish (or bad or fowled out), or any other mechanical issues......regarding the ecm, the tps % at idle should be zero (should be showing this on a scan)regardless of min air screw adjustment. When the blade is completely closed and IAC is @160 counts (maxed), that will be all the air it can see, as it cannot comp any further. (that in itself will make it run rough at idle /off idle). If the tune was a tad rich to begin with (depending on were the BLM was/is), it is possible that could add to a richer conditon. Additonally there should be tables based on coolant temp. (some ecm's have mat vs mat fuel compenstaion also) that add fuel, and these may also need to be looked at (based on your mention of coolant temps.).
But it would be good to know where the tune is to begin with (through scans and the bin itself), how much advance at idle (and up until where you mention it cleans up at), commanded idle rpm, blm, bpw, inj.constant, real afr (not target afr in datamaster) de-cell (rich or lean). There maybe a few places for improvements in closed loop, or areas that are negatively effecting the tune. Mine can idle down at around 900, but I thought it wasn't clean enough (mine is set around 1k. vs. temp. in the ecm including all add-ons, and IAC cts. are around 35-40cts.), which makes it a cleaner idle and better off idle throttle response. It is better to program the idle rpm in the ecm (vs. temps.), and do the IAC cts. seperately.... IMO at least.
Usually when I get the tune right at a stable outside temp. (early summer, or early fall), the tune really isn't finished until I can see were it goes when the weather temps change more dramatically (start up, blm under colder or hotter ambient, etc.) which allows tweaks in the other tables.

Posted on: 2009/3/10 1:39
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Re: Shiftlight install
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jhammons01 wrote:
^^If you do, put a micro switch somewhere to turn it off. Nothing like that light flashing at you while in a two hour stop and go traffic jam.........

no need and why would it be flashing in a stop and go traffic jam?

Posted on: 2009/3/7 21:31
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Re: Shiftlight install
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it's a decent shift light and the it won't be affected in from moisture etc. in the vent. Mine has been there for about 4 years now, and the wiring can also be feed direct to the distr. and or ecm if one chooses. On mine cutting is minimal and I used a small hole saw to cut the backing for it to go in deep enough. That side of the duct is seperated from the actual air of the vent.
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/zk2u0h.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/2a5179c.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2009/3/7 14:08
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Re: anti-squat with an IRS
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thanks......For some reason I thought the wheel base was a bit longer.

Posted on: 2009/3/1 19:02
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Re: anti-squat with an IRS
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Now the dog bones, you could put the car on jack stands and remove them entirely, put the car in gear and punch it, and the knuckles wouldn't rotate at all. The only torque transmitted to them would be the bearing and brake drag, and the slight twisting of the lower camber rods with their glorious binding bushings.

I agree with the c. beam and upper bat wing mounts controlling to a point the pinion climbing (I think the motor mounts are also a factor). Basically because it is the only attachment point to the diff. and the half shafts would be independent of that reaction. Unlike a solid because the diff.is connected/part of the axle tube assembly and can be controlled through a variety of methods (pinion snub, 4 bar etc.).

At what point then under load do the "dog bones" come into play ? height changes through acceleration/squat etc.? Or, the force being applied under torque (example, presuming the tire actually is getting bite)? or a combination of both ?

*the tech drawing provided a few posts above appears to show the overall wheel base at 96. is that correct? *

Posted on: 2009/3/1 13:36
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Re: 1985 C4 driveline RWHP question - LS1 Swap
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if budget permits just do the 44. If buying a used one I would have it gone through regardless, before being assembled in the car. I would do at least the 3.4 ratio or larger (numerically).

Posted on: 2009/2/11 11:39
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Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints
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Wtf does kragen sell for $40? Everything they sell is from China.
LOL

I bought regular spicers (no zerk)for 27. ea. at a local (http://www.dynotechengineering.com/)dana/spicer dealer (they also have the caps w/bolts etc. in stock, and make custom shafts in alum. moly etc.). To me, it's one of those jobs I don't want to do all that often.

Posted on: 2009/2/3 10:55
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Re: ls1 computer in an l98 car?
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I see nothing wrong with working the stock ecm. Personally the best bet is to learn to do it yourself and maybe start w/ a bin from a known tuner just to have a reference point.
As to ecm's, if I were to ever swap to a different system I would use an aftermarket (big stuff, gen vii or so). I like the options/beifits w/those much better.

Posted on: 2009/2/2 11:36
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Re: Just a crazy waste of money....
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and not even in color........I wish I had that kind of budget to work with......I'd be looking at a couple of "super cars"

Posted on: 2009/1/19 13:45
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Re: Craigslist
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'very powerfull'........what a goof

Posted on: 2009/1/16 13:49
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Re: Does factory paint ever have orange peel?
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Anybody ever seen factory orange peeling? Does clear coat do the OP thing?

All paint jobs when first done will have some peel. If you have seen a vette w/no peel, it means it's been wet sanded or polished to no man's land....the clear coat is what you are wet sanding.(hopefully anyways)

Posted on: 2009/1/14 12:24
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Re: Damned thing did it again...
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I have an almost new delco here w/sock and strainer you can have (pay postage), provided you can use it on your year.

Posted on: 2009/1/9 2:08
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Re: Best Castings in the Market?
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Yeah, the all pro with all the options they are big bucks, I do like 20lbs.overall weight option. I have no doubt that at the moment they may the best out of the box out there. I'd bet there would be some additional issues, if using the traditional intakes and headers. (the low lift numbers are pretty darn good as well!)

Posted on: 2008/12/22 3:35
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Re: Nice head comparo here
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so what are trying to say ?...........leg humper capital..LOL

Posted on: 2008/12/22 2:42
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Re: Best Castings in the Market?
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Posted on: 2008/12/22 1:56
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Re: C4 owners have a bad rap why....
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this probably didn't help.....in between thwarted off car jackings, this guy was posting his 'mods'
tb delete:
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smog pump delete:
[IMG]http://i37.tinypic.com/2u7soci.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.tinypic.com/inhht5.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2008/12/15 4:34
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Re: First Intake results ?
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I dunno, I think the average guy is more interested in street performance, incl. light to light, great mileage, creature comforts etc. Some may have read threads of sr's leaking, mr's having no low end etc., so maybe feel like this fits the bill. My taste is different, and I recognize many may not want to take it as far in a build. Some just want to change one part to make more power w/out any side effects of tuning etc.(supposedly)and may feel this is the answer. I also thought that it wasn't available at an earlier in time for reasonable money, so it wasn't as tangible. To be honest and IMO, all of the aftermarket cast intakes are overpriced..
"just sayin'"......

Posted on: 2008/12/11 19:22
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Re: Are 315s unreasonable front tires for daily driving?
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Is there a reason that you want to be exactly at 0* or haven't added a little toe in? From playing w/mine I found that a little there seems to go a long way, and ended up up w/about a 1/16" in on both sides.

Posted on: 2008/12/11 14:37
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Re: Good deal on a block...
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not a 383, but I think this is a good deal:
http://detroit.craigslist.org/pts/939599676.html

Posted on: 2008/12/10 13:52
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Re: Driving Impressions today
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I guess my attitude is a little different than those who live on the left coast or in the southern states. I am shut down from driving it till winter is over. Salt, snow etc. isn't my idea of fun, so the way I look at it is all I have a smaller window of opportunity. Performance tires become stones w/in about 5 years or less, and the longer they sit the more likely they turn to bricks. I prefer having the car reasonably hooked all the time, and replace every couple years or when needed...to me life is short, have fun

Posted on: 2008/12/10 13:45
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Re: Driving Impressions today
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That's all I leave on the car now, and are fine around town. They will feel a little spongier (as all dr's will be), due to the lighter constrcution. I have not been on the eway, but been at eway speeds and feel comfortable. They probably won't like hammering corners no matter what, but there isn't any other DOT street tire I know of that gives as much bite. With the 10" dr it will have little effect in rim swap, if fact using a 17 rim has less sidewall deflection. Either way, guys at the track here making way more power than me are using the 10 or 10.5 dr.(classes for the DOT tire, not just the 10'slick) with great sucess. Do some searches on the 10" tire class stuff, you will be surprised.

Posted on: 2008/12/8 14:21
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Re: Driving Impressions today
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if you get a good fresh set of 10"or 10.5 dr's, either mt et's or the m&h version they will have good bite using a 9 1/2" rim. Even w/the last motor I was able to melt the 285 kd's from a roll, and w/this motor under normal accelaration they would spin, shifts under 20mph. etc........not any more.
unfortunately, the 17's (in 295, 325, and 345)will not be available again until around february

Posted on: 2008/12/8 13:26
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Re: How many corvette forums are you a member of?
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the usual vette boards, muscle car club, TGO, camaro z28, and yellow bullit....."where the weak are killed and eaten"

Posted on: 2008/12/1 1:04
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Re: My opinion on AFR
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Quote:
BillH wrote:
My personal opinion of AFR, Brodix, Dart and others is: I could care less.

well now that we got that out of the way, how do you feel about a warm beer ?

** The picture is a bit much... funny, but not appropriate - Andy **

Posted on: 2008/11/30 4:19
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Re: My opinion on AFR
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Aside from the big cc head w/big numbers, they do also have some smaller offerings w/good numbers. I like the available "options", over all weight 20 lbs., machined for "O" rings etc....and of course for big $$$$

Posted on: 2008/11/29 7:28
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