The Problem with a water pump is, sometimes the weep hole doesn't wear out while driving around in town, then you try to go somewhere and it goes out on you while you are 100 miles away from home.

So if a complete, assembled, balanced 2 piece rear main seal engine was built or bought, it could be dropped right in place of a 1 piece rear seal engine?

Hey folks I'm getting ready to change the water pump in my 84. It's not leaking yet but it's sounding like it will soon.

If you run a 2 piece rear main seal block in your vette I think you need to buy some sort of adapter to use the stock trans, I'm not sure there either tho because that is something else I haven't done myself. Maybe a search will give you more info on that.

I didn't know they would work on the plastic tank ones.

Do the fan relays switch the fan motor grounds or the 12V side?

Please explain. (checking timing)because all I know is how to set base timing.My mistake ,I thought it would be like a non-efi when it come to checking total advance.

I need the tilt column housing. Its the part circled in the last part of the write up that I followed. Its not very boig or real heavy, maybe 4-5 lbs?
Thansk jeff

I am saving this forever!!

Fair enough,I dont have a chip reader but I do have access to a snapon scanner.Its a few years old and has not been updated since about '96,but it still seems to work fine.Thanks

Hey CFI, what wattage is that avatar? Every time you post my light bill goes up. Have you considered fluorescent?

Because I own a timing light. The 36 to38 is a guess based on other information I have gathered.

Are you two neighbors?

Hey man, my camera is state of the art! At least it was in 1995 when I bought it, lol.

because at 6*it's full advance@3000rpm and 42* I think it should be around 36 to38 total.

AFPR: It seems to me that with a stock computer, that if one were to adjust the fuel pressure up that he would see a rich condition in open loop. But once the computer closes the loop it would detect the rich condition and lean out the FAR by shortening the injector pulse.

24# injectors: Same as above. Open loop = rich. Closed loop = normal. Except that I wouldn’t think larger injectors would not make their optimum spray pattern at standard fuel pressure.

Larger Throttle Body(TB): Again it seems that unless the stock TB is restrictive that increasing its size could actually yield a lower intake velocity and hurt performance.

Larger MAF: Same as TB but if the comp is getting bad data, isn’t it going to return to normal operation once it relearns the BLMs?

I suspect they reduce power and increase ETs. Has anyone ever done a dyno run before and after a MSD install? What about ¼ mile times?

If tricking the computer into making different choices is the goal of some of the above modifications then why don’t people put in trick O2 sensors that will always read lean or engine coolant temp sensors that will always read cold?

Years ago I read an article that said one should always take a comprehensive approach to performance tuning. The idea of one thing changing the performance was shunned and the idea of custom chip/bin was put forward as the only way to make sure that the common modifications will yield actual results.

I have the 'GM' mini bolts which dont fit, the aftermarket ones use an oddball size I guess.

the R&D behind this has been mind boggling. The #1 reason the automakers are pursueing it is for savings...

Have you ever thought of going farther with that idea? See if it is invented or patented yet, and if not, pursue it yourself?

Fixed it. Didn't have my pixel ruler handy!

You are a piece of work. Who pissed in your corn flakes today

Im used to his comments so it doesn't bother me.

it is a specialty valve designed to correct the original design which won't allow full throttle upshift to OD.

Havent' they already done this on a production car? Electronic valves?

I have to say that your avator is by far the most revolting one I have ever seen. I hope that is not on your body!

Is there a one stop shop for all parts to build 383 from this block, I have checked search options seems like many good post but not any w/ the whole story.

The more cats I read the more confused I get.

Am told by many just put crate eng in but that offers little satisfaction. Thanks for any help Craig

We can always count on you to bust somebody's chops huh CFI? whip :tongue5:
Even though CFI was doin' that, He was right. Auto 101 is probably a good idea.

interesting. I thought the 90 ECU was smart enough to
find that.

I know the 92 is and I woulda sworn I had read that the 90 did the same
thing.

I will check...

Is it really necessary to stretch this whole thread with a 1024 pixel wide
picture of an EGR valve?

RACE ON!!!

I think I might leave it that way too since you didn't ask nicely. :tongue:

So what are the signs that it is breaking?

Second, if you replaced your timing chain but it was installed incorrectly in some way, would it not destroy itself on start up or would it take awhile to break?

How much does a good one cost?

quote="Slalom4me"Quote:

Incidently, the little single and double 'ear' crimp-style hose clamps seen
on euro and asian cars are known as Oetiker Clamps. With proper care,
they can be reused multiple times.



.

Is there a pully near the cover for the chain and if it is misalighned or wearing out, it could rub a hole in the chains casing/cover causing the oil to leak out and lock your motor up? Vauge description

Ticking sucks but the description is perfect. I always wondered how.....and what....with injectors. Now I knoooooow. Thanks CFI.

Beats using the flaring tool to jury rig a make-shift single-rib 'barb' directly on the metal tube