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93 LT1 rebuild question |
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Senior Guru
 
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My 93 LT1 vett motor went south after a hot cam install. I am looking at this rotating assy. (http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B1340 ... -1?parentProductId=763943) Any comments? It is balanced so will I be able to use it with my 6 speed tranny? The 6 speed has a flywheel with the teeth in it for the starter and not a flexplate right? I called Jegs and they said this will will work with my tranny but I just want to double check. I am also looking at trick flow 180 heads.
When removing the heads I pretty much destroyed the coolant air bleed pipe anyone know where I can get a new one or at least the rubber stuff that seals it to those bolts that go into the water jacket in the head? Thanks
Posted on: 2011/9/9 18:37
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Re: coolant air bleed pipe |
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Don, nice looking build, thanks for the pix. I think I will go back with the 355 in my rebuild, just don't need that much hp, after the hot cam, and headers I am already on the verge of traction problems especially around any corner and I have 315 Nitto 555s.
Posted on: 2011/9/9 18:30
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Re: coolant air bleed pipe |
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Don, did you use a balanced rotating assy. or assemble pieces? How much of the work did you do yourself? What pistons did you use, rings, connecting rods? Is there a page on the forum with your build, I would really like to look at it? What heads?Thanks
Posted on: 2011/9/6 2:51
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Re: Pics of my C4 and new toy |
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Very nice, thanks for posting
Posted on: 2011/9/6 2:32
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Re: coolant air bleed pipe |
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Quote:
O MAN! I was just going to cut the tube in half, I like your idea much better. Thanks for the tip!! Hey didn't you build a 383 recently? How did it turn out? Any tips for a rebuild?
Posted on: 2011/9/6 2:28
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Re: 89 LT1 won't stay running |
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My 93 LT1 did the same thing, start fine, run about 15 min then die, not start until engine cool, is that similar to what you are experiencing? For mine it was the connector to the coil module. I touched and wiggled it while the engine was running, it would die instantly. I opened the connector and bent the pins slightly and it was fixed. Might try that, nothing to lose. Also wiggle other connectors in the engine bay, it may be another one, but I would bet it's the coil or module connector. Good luck.
Posted on: 2011/9/5 22:12
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coolant air bleed pipe |
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93 LT1 trying to get the heads off in the car. There are two bolts that hold the "coolant air bleed pipe" to the back of the heads. 15mm is too big, 14 too small. Anybody know what size that sucker is? The FSM says nothing about bolt size. I am starting to round the head off with 15mm (fits really lose) also 5/8 is too big, 9/16 too small, have never seen anything like it? HELP!
Posted on: 2011/9/5 21:52
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Re: leak down test results |
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Quote:
Was that a stock piston? Were you able to figure out what did that to it? How bad did it mess up your block?
Posted on: 2011/8/24 14:32
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Re: leak down test results |
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I live in a small town 120mi from KC, but I go there often.
Posted on: 2011/8/23 20:45
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Re: leak down test results |
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Hopefully I can pull the heads next week and see what there is to see.
Posted on: 2011/8/22 18:40
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Re: leak down test results |
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I would like to rebuild my engine and keep the stock crank and rods, that way I would have money to spend on Trick Flow heads. Has anybody used them? I am thinking that with my hot cam, a rebuild with new pistons and rings and trick flow heads I should be 400 - 425 hp at the flywheel, that would be plenty for me.
No one has commented on the oil on top of the valves, I am thinking it might be the guides, is there any other way for oil to get there besides that? I am thinking that the new hot cam and raising my rev limiter to 6200rpm was just too much for my motor with 100,000+ on it.
Posted on: 2011/8/20 12:36
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Re: leak down test results |
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Quote:
I think that short block is for the pre LT1 motors, right? I would love to just buy a short block but there aren't any for the LT1, at least from GM.
Posted on: 2011/8/20 1:56
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Re: leak down test results |
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What kind of pistons should I think about for a rebuild and what rings, am thinking of going 355 so I can reuse my crank and rods and save some money. Also thinking of going with Trick Flow 185 heads. What do I need to know about rebalancing with internal balance. Anyone know a good rebuilder in the KC Missouri area?
Posted on: 2011/8/20 1:02
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leak down test results |
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Got my leak down tester in the mail today. Here are the results, need a little help interpreting them.
Drivers side; 1-92, 3-93, 5-94, 7-94 Pass side; 2-96, 4-78 (best of 4 readings 80), 6-94, 8-94 All reading with 100 psi. Obviously something is wrong with #4, it's way lower than the rest which are pretty close together. Near as I can tell with #4 air was coming out the crank case, it obviously was not coming out the intake valve, as I have the intake off, the exhaust is a little harder to tell for sure but I listened at the tail pipe and no hissing sound, so must be the crank case. How bad is this, a tear down required? Thanks
Posted on: 2011/8/19 19:14
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Re: excessive oil consuption |
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Quote:
Not to argue but the motor won't "spin" with compressed air introduced into the cylinder, it instead moves the piston from TDC to the bottom of the stroke and then stops, it is impossible for the piston to move after that, that is what I simply mean that the piston hit the bottom of the stroke with a "bang". When an engine is running the piston does not stop at the bottom of the stroke but keeps spinning on past. Still I hope you are right that no harm was done. Also I have been thinking, I have a puddle of oil on each closed intake valve. Now it seems to me that oil must be leaking down the valve stem for that to happen, it could not get there any other way, am I right? May be it is the guides or seals? What valve seals are you all using with stock LT1 heads? I used felpro viton.
Posted on: 2011/8/17 19:55
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Re: excessive oil consuption |
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Quote:
My compressor is a commercial air compressor, the tank on it is huge, it could easily drive the piston to the bottom of the stoke and not register any less air pressure than 100 psi (the compressor cuts off at 120psi, I had the line pressure set at 100). But that said, I sure hope you are right. As to the pan gasket leaking yesterday I was under the car and I can see the oil is leaking around the oil filter adapter where it meets the block. I took if off and the o ring is blown??!! Anyway that is where the oil came from, now I don't think the pan gasket is leaking. I ordered a new o ring seal for the filter adapter and hope to start it up in a week. Thanks guys for all the helpful comments.
Posted on: 2011/8/17 13:16
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Re: excessive oil consuption |
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Yes it started after the cam swap, didn't burn any oil before that (1/4 qt. in a 3000mi oil change). When I was replacing the springs I used compressed air. Had read to use 20-30psi, but couldn't get the keepers free with that little air pressure. I ended up using 100psi and putting the tranny in gear then putting air in the cylinder at TDC. I forgot to put it in gear on one cyl, when I connected the air to the cyl. the piston obviously slammed to the bottom of the stroke, I could hear it bang. I am thinking I might of broke a piston or ring when that happened. I ordered a leak down tester from Amazon today, should be here in a week, hopefully that will tell me something.
Posted on: 2011/8/17 1:53
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Re: excessive oil consuption |
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Quote:
It's not coming out of the PCV hose, it's the other side of the engine (pass side) where the hose runs to the TB to get filtered air for the crank case, make sense?
Posted on: 2011/8/17 1:53
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Re: LT1 starter solenoid |
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It could be the batt. it's 6yr old, probably on last leg. I do keep it on a batt. tender. It usually happens when I have not driven it for a while, come out and won't turn over, just a click. Starts fine when warm. I probably need to take the batt. to the parts store to have it checked out. Terminals are nice and clean. Thanks!
Posted on: 2011/8/17 1:23
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Re: excessive oil consuption |
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Well I am back home and working on the motor. Now that I think of it when it was last running I disconnected the hose that runs from the TB to the passenger side valve cover and smoke was coming out, a lot of it. That shouldn't be, right? There should be enough vacuum thru the PCV to make it pull air and not blow smoke on that side right? I am going to buy a leak down tester and test the cyl. pressure leak down next week. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Posted on: 2011/8/16 22:10
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LT1 starter solenoid |
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Does anyone know if the 93 vett LT1 has a starter solenoid on the starter or is it mounted away from the starter? When I try to start my car often (not all the time) it will just "click" and the motor does not turn over, is that possibly the solenoid? The FSM says nothing about a separate solenoid but rock auto lists one for the 93 and shows a pix of it. I have had the starter to the auto parts store and it checked out fine.
Posted on: 2011/8/16 22:06
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Re: excessive oil consuption |
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Am on the road traveling now, will be home in a week +. I blew compressed air through the PCV line, not plugged. I am wondering if a broken ring would let that much oil to the top of the motor, is that even possible? Would a compression check tell me if an oil ring is broken?
Posted on: 2011/8/2 16:27
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Re: excessive oil consuption |
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Just the intake. I am wondering with all that oil on top the valves that there must also be oil on top the pistons too which would be a very bad thing. With the LT1 small combustion chamber it could build up enough to bend a rod.
Posted on: 2011/7/27 2:19
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Re: excessive oil consuption |
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I checked the PCV valve, it moves freely up and down, it seems to be ok, but I will replace it anyway.
Posted on: 2011/7/26 23:00
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excessive oil consuption |
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Since putting a hot cam, 1.6rrs, LT4 valve springs in my 93 LT1 it is using about a quart of oil every 100 miles. There is a puddle of oil on top of each closed valve. There is also oil running down the air foil on the throttle body. The whole inside of the intake is black and wet with oil. Also the last time I drove it oil started blowing out the oil pan where it meets the block. The whole back of the car underneath is coated with oil. It's leaking out the front of the pan and the back too. Also oil is dripping out of the exhaust. I am totally baffled, any thoughts?
Posted on: 2011/7/26 20:11
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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Just got back from vacation - nice! Should be able to check on the intake tomorrow (Sat) to see how off it was and how the milling went. I only have a 12" straight edge but I could see light under it right in the middle of the intake on both sides. Hope this fixes the problem. There was a thread somewhere about split BLM's and intake leaks, will try to find it. Thanks for the comments.
Posted on: 2011/5/14 0:20
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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I finally pulled the intake off. There is gobs of oil all around the intake ports both above the gasket and below. It must not of sealed at all. No wonder I had low vacuum, rough idle and lots of oil smoke. It appears that my intake is warped, I laid a straight edge along the intake where it meets the heads and both sides are warped, shaped like a "C" with the highest point right in the middle. My friend who owns the machine shop here in town says he never trusts an aluminum intake after it is removed (yes I followed the FSM torque sequence to the letter and re torqued 3 times after initial). Hopefully this will fix the problem. He is going to resurface the area where it contacts the head, I also think I will try different gaskets, any recommendations? I used stock LT1 felpro's.
Posted on: 2011/5/8 2:45
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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Thanks FB mine is a little low, if it's not the intake manifold I'm not sure what is causing the oil consuption. It'a hard to think it's rings with only 100,000mi and not useing any before. Hopefully I can get the intake back off in the next couple of days and see what is going on.
Posted on: 2011/5/2 13:12
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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Does anyone know what "normal" manifold vacuum is with the hot cam? I am running 12-14 and I am thinking I have a vacuum leak at the manifold, probably where the manifold seals against the heads. I fixed the 3 bad valve seals and still am getting lots of oil smoke.
Posted on: 2011/4/30 2:54
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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Ok I found at least part of the problem (hopefully this is all of it) I have at least 3 destroyed valve seals that I can see. I also have 2 that I can see that are up off the valve seat. Can someone give me the proper way to seat the seal on the valve boss? I simply pressed them on with a deep well socket, apparently that is not enough.
Sliding; If my car smoked (ha ha) before I didn't see it and it wasn't much because it uses very little oil. I have no way of knowing about my tune if it runs rich or not, how would one tell, especially with all the smoke? 100,000 miles
Posted on: 2011/4/29 1:13
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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Quote:
Tell me what you are thinking then? Rings? The car has never burned a drop of oil until now.
Posted on: 2011/4/28 18:39
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Re: Corsa install clearance problem?? |
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It sure looks nice! Hope you get it worked out, good luck. I don't have a corsa but the stock exhaust with headers. I know when I put the headers on it lowered the whole exhaust system down so I could hardly get the tabs shown in your pix close enough to start the bolts thru the holes, I ended bending the tabs so it would work, don't know if that will help you or not.
Posted on: 2011/4/28 18:37
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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Quote:
Good idea, yes it can sure come in around the intake gasket. I'll check the vac. later on today. I have re torqued the intake bolts twice now, they are good.
Posted on: 2011/4/28 15:28
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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I used new LT4 stock retainers, don't remember any o-ring. I also did not "tap" the seals on just pushed firmly with a deep well socket, is that typically not enough?
Posted on: 2011/4/28 13:06
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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I used these;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL ... odel|CORVETTE&prefilter=1
The smoke is there at start up and never goes away until you shut the motor off.
Posted on: 2011/4/28 3:35
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Re: burning oil after hot cam install |
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Oil on dipstick is clear. I did notice my oil pressure is about 5-10lb higher now until it warms up, about 70 when cold, used to be 60? The motor runs really nice, it's hard to believe that the head gasket could be blown. I didn't remove the heads. I will remove all the plugs tomorrow and see how they look, may be one or two will be very dirty and give me a clue about weather I messed up a valve seal or two.
Posted on: 2011/4/28 2:41
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burning oil after hot cam install |
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Senior Guru
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Most of you have seen my hot cam install, now about 2 weeks after the install and still working on my tune (the car runs great)it is burning serious oil. When you start it and let it idle it really smokes, white/grey smoke. Has anyone else had this problem? I put in new valve seals, could they be installed wrong? I removed the pvc line and smoke pours out of it. This is a bummer. Any thoughts? Thanks
Posted on: 2011/4/27 22:47
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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Well I had to order new heated oxygen sensors, one came today and I got it installed the other one should be here tomorrow. The guy who is doing my tune said there was no point in him doing any more tuning until I made the switch. Anyone else run into this problem? The car is running very rich. When I took the old (just replaced with new ones last summer) 02 sensors out they were getting pretty black with soot.
Posted on: 2011/4/21 1:52
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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Got the leak in the pan fixed thanks to a helping of "The Right Stuff" on the front and back of the curved part of the pan. There is something funny about that FelPro one piece gasket because in the front (where the leak was) it is bulging out where the pan meets the timing cover. Drove the car with the new hot cam, wow what a difference in power. Can't wait to get the new tune. Thanks to all for the good info here on the forum. I'll post up a vid. soon.
Posted on: 2011/4/13 19:42
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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Thanks for putting the pix up, one of these days I'll figure it out.
As to the wear pattern, the one in both pix is with the stock 7.2 len. push rods. I didn't take pix of the new wear pattern but it's much more centered on the valve stem. I have a really bad leak in the front of the oil pan I am working on now. Have the pan almost ready to drop for the 2nd time **!!##@*, hopefully I can see what is wrong.
Posted on: 2011/4/11 13:14
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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Quote:
I'll try that next time, don't have any more pix now. Can you believe I pulled the old cam out and stuck the hot cam in w/o taking any pictures!!! Makes me really mad. I was having so much trouble getting the motor up to pull the cam that I totally forgot about the pictures. I do have the receipt from Jegs for the cam and the old cam so it really did happen. Let me know if there is any specific picture you want and I'll try to take it if I don't have it.
Posted on: 2011/4/11 1:03
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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Thanks, just built my garage this Nov., it's really nice, got my wood shop in there too. And yes that's the old pan gasket, wish I had left it on there and not messed with it. I am almost ready to drop the pan again, we'll see what it looks like. You can't see or get to anything on the front of an LT1 motor w/o major work.
Posted on: 2011/4/11 0:57
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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Ok hopefully this will turn out to be a picture.
Posted on: 2011/4/10 19:34
Edited by bogus on 2012/5/10 6:29:31
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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Posted on: 2011/4/10 3:20
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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It's the front of the pan where the pan meets the timing cover. The leak (at least it is wet with oil) is from the center of the pan and all the way up to the block on the dr. side. In order to get the pan on I had to overlap the front of the gasket over the front of the pan, lift the pan in place then put in several bolts just barely started and then push the gasket back in the timing cover grove from the front of the engine. Otherwise the front main cap would knock the front of the gasket back into the pan every time I tried to put the pan on. I put the gasket in completely dry.
Posted on: 2011/4/10 2:29
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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Well for anyone who is still watching this thread, I started her up today with the new hot cam. It sounds really good, especially w/o the cats and otherwise stock exhaust system, just right for my taste, not too loud but just a nice growl when you step on it. The cam idles and runs good even with the stock tune, just a hint of lope at idle, not bad at all. But I have an oil leak in the front pan seal!!! What a bummer. It's pretty bad, the seal must of been squished into the pan because the leak is not small. I have come to truly hate working with that pan/gasket and it's not looking too good now.
If someone will show me how to load pix and a video I will give it a try for anyone interested.
Posted on: 2011/4/10 1:41
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Re: EGR Discussion one more time |
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Senior Guru
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I'd run w/o it. I eliminated mine on my 93 and it sure opens up the engine bay making a much cleaner access for spark plugs. The EGR does reduce cylinder temps when you are running down the road, but under engine load it is supposed to shut off because you don't want a "neutral and inert gas" introduced into your cylinders when you are going for max. performance. You will have to have a tuner adjust the ECM for it though. When I saw how much carbon it introduces into the intake and it is exhaust gas so it's hot too (just not as hot as the cylinder temps) I was even more glad it is gone. JMO
Posted on: 2011/4/8 2:21
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Re: LT4 Hot Cam?? |
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I had to order shorter push rods for the proper contact with the valve stem. Got a tune ordered too.
Posted on: 2011/4/6 2:22
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Re: Lowering , revisited. |
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Quote:
Steve did you install the wedges "as is" ie w/o modifying them? When I put mine in I could not see how that "wedge" design would work very well, the point of the wedge puts a lot of pressure where it touches the frame, so I sanded the point off the wedge, so far no problems.
Posted on: 2011/4/4 16:46
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Re: shorter pushrods with hot cam? |
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2010/8/20 19:44 From missouri
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Does anyone know is the stock length for push rods on the LT1 also 7.2"? I went back and looked at the pix you posted (FB) in my hot cam thread and it looks exactly like the wear pattern on my valve stems with my hot cam, I am wondering if I just go ahead and get the 7.1 push rods if that will be close enough??
Posted on: 2011/4/4 13:24
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