All Posts (toptechx6)
Re: holy crap batman! GS fender flares |
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Let me try to explain it this way Casey......millions of Aussies including yourself love Vegemite, can we agree on that so far?
Bring as much as you can stuff in your luggage when you visit and see how much of it you can sell here, fellow Aussies excluded, then you will understand!
Posted on: 2008/3/30 8:59
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Re: holy crap batman! GS fender flares |
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I respect Casey's opinion too but it is just that, opinion. Lots of people on this side of the big pond seem to think otherwise, I say build them John and they will come!
Posted on: 2008/3/29 16:25
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Re: holy crap batman! GS fender flares |
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Quote:
Agreed, Tobijohn is the member mentioned who has considered making these and selling them, but we came to the conclusion that somewhere around $200 per pair is the resistance point for pricing. He may build them yet if he can find someone to manufacture a quality piece that can be sold for around $200 per pair while still allowing some profit margin. Guru members will be the first to know if it happens.
Posted on: 2008/3/29 8:35
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Re: LT1 Code 33 |
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Sorry we weren't able to help you sort it out yourself and save you some money, but happy to hear the dealer found the problem quickly.
Good opportunity to upgrade to LT4 valve springs from GM Performance Parts, they are not expensive and will then be in place if you decide to add roller rocker arms later on to pick up some horsepower.
Posted on: 2008/3/28 23:36
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Re: holy crap batman! GS fender flares |
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Posted on: 2008/3/28 19:07
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Re: kent-moore puller question |
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J 39046
Posted on: 2008/3/28 13:05
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Re: Car won't start |
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I think the "thingy" on your key is okay, VATS prevents starter operation, if it cranks you have another problem. Check it for codes first then basics such as fuel pressure and spark to the plugs. If your leak is antifreeze from the water pump weep hole it could be an Opti problem, good luck.
Posted on: 2008/3/28 7:43
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Re: cam and rocker suggestions needed |
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I believe the Hot cam is only available as long pin, if you use it on LT1's with the early style Opti the pin must be seated deeper, at least that is my understanding.
Posted on: 2008/3/27 13:15
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Re: viper came thru the shop this morning |
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That is going to be expensive!
Posted on: 2008/3/27 13:09
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Re: LT1 Code 33 |
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A plugged PCV would not cause a leak, but if the "guts" were completely missing from the valve that could to it. To be sure there are no leaks disconnect the hose at the manifold and plug it similar to the brake hose test just to verify that is not the culprit.
You should be able to take a vacuum reading with your hand pump on any vacuum hose coming directly off the manifold. Assuming your car is the same as mine, my suggestion would be the lower of the two small nipples on the passenger side of the engine under the fuel rail cover, it should go to a "Tee" with a check valve in it. The line to the Tee provides vacuum to the A/C controls. The top nipple goes to the fuel pressure regulator, removing that one might confuse the issue since it will run richer with the vacuum line disconnected. Also check the vacuum line to the cruise control servo, seem to recall that one is fairly large too, try to plug it at the source to eliminate it from the list of possibilities, good luck.
Posted on: 2008/3/27 8:39
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Re: LT1 Code 33 |
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Take a vacuum reading with a gauge and see what you have, should be 18 to 21" at idle assuming a stock cam. For the symptoms you describe you must have a substantial leak. Inspect the larger vacuum hoses first such as the one to the PCV valve,and brake booster. You could try disconnecting the hose to the booster and plugging it, if the engine runs smooth the booster is leaking. Spraying carb cleaner around the intake gaskets can reveal a leak when you hit the right area, the engine will run differently when it ingests the cleaner at the leak point.
Posted on: 2008/3/26 22:49
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Re: 22nd Sunshine Corvette Show 03/08 |
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Nice Tommy, thanks for sharing it!
Posted on: 2008/3/18 13:46
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Re: LT1 Code 33 |
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Quote:
My mistake, thinking of Mopar stuff I guess. A loss of vacuum from another source can still result in a MAP reading that is out of spec, as can a misfire caused by ignition, fuel or mechanical problems.
Posted on: 2008/3/18 8:09
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Re: LT1 Code 33 |
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Quote:
You should get a lot of responses to this post since it is impossible to give a "correct" reply. If we tell you no, that is the wrong way to do it we aren't being understanding to your circumstances. If we agree with throwing parts at it we are giving you bad advice, which do you prefer? Nearly anything that causes a misfire will result in lower than normal vacuum so the code may be a symptom, not the cause. At the very least before buying any parts give the engine a good visual inspection with extra attention to the vacuum lines especially the one to the map sensor, can't hurt to look at the electrical connectors either, best of luck.
Posted on: 2008/3/17 17:38
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Re: Heat and A/C question |
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Quote:
Not sure this applies to earlier models but later cars have a one way vacuum check valve near the right valve cover that is a common failure item, make sure you are getting vacuum into the passenger compartment before tearing into it, good luck.
Posted on: 2008/3/14 19:06
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Re: 95 Vette - will not crank (behaves like there is no gas - there is) |
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Man that 92 part could be very bad news, I understand the ECM's for 92 & 93 are really scarce. I believe the number you need is 16159278. Best of luck, let us know how it shakes out.
Posted on: 2008/3/13 21:57
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Re: 85 booster in 84 |
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All I can tell you for sure is that the GM part numbers are different.
84 14046849 85 10097670
Posted on: 2008/3/12 20:25
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Re: Rear Differential fluid change |
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Removal isn't that tough but I wouldn't do it just to install the drain, not that hard to do it in the car and steel_blue_91 had a great suggestion to use the fuel line as a drill stop. You need to remove the exhaust, rear spring, rear toe link assembly, unbolt the camber bars at the differential and swing them down, unbolt the driveshaft and both half shafts and remove the rear bolts from the support beam, finally the two bolts attaching the batwing to the frame. The assembly then drops out, but you will need to remove the cover bolts to separate the batwing from the pumpkin. I'm sure someone will remind me if I missed anything.
Posted on: 2008/3/8 21:03
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Re: Rear Differential fluid change |
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Quote:
I agree completely with Notorious on this one, while Andy's procedure in Tech Tips will certainly get the fluid changed, to me the technique is similar to removing engine oil through the dipstick tube, the oil is removed but heavy contaminants including metal and water or coolant remain at the bottom. There is a good reason for putting drain plugs at the lowest point, it is called gravity! It is not hard to install your own drain plug, as mentioned it is easier when the pumpkin is on the bench but can be done in the vehicle too. Don't buy one of the expensive "kits" all you need is a long 5/16” drill bit, a 1/8 X 27 pipe tap and a plug the same size as the tap. Center punch a spot on the pumpkin 1/2 inch left of the lowest cover bolt centerline and 1/2 inch forward of the batwing cover. That dimension should work for D36 or D44. Drill a small pilot hole first before the 5/16" final diameter. Use care when drilling to avoid nicking the ring gear, a depth "stop" on your drill bit at 1 inch will prevent damage. I have used tape wrapped thick enough to make a shoulder or spot weld a washer on the drill bit. Use an extension and 12 point 1/4" drive socket on the tap to cut the threads if doing this in the car. The draining lubricant will remove any chips. The 1/8" drain plug seems small but warm lube drains quickly and more thoroughly than any suction gun.
Posted on: 2008/3/8 9:57
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Re: Rear Differential fluid change |
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If you change it when warm all contaminants remain in suspension, even more important if you are using a suction gun to remove the lubricant in the rear end. If you do it cold all the debris you want to remove has settled to the bottom to mix with your nice new axle lube once it warms up.
Posted on: 2008/3/7 18:09
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Re: 95 Vette - will not crank (behaves like there is no gas - there is) |
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This link will show you how to pull codes and what they mean.
See post #5, courtesy of moderator Casethecorvetteman. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showt ... 9&highlight=ecm+code+list (by the way mods, shouldn't we post this here as a sticky so we do not need to redirect to CF the next time the question comes up?) Be advised that the codes are of little value without the Factory Service Manual to correctly troubleshoot the circuit. For example,a code that mentions the O2 sensor does not indicate the sensor should be replaced, it only directs you to the circuit with a problem, the test procedure in the FSM is the only correct way to isolate the problem.
Posted on: 2008/3/6 16:18
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Re: 95 Vette - will not crank (behaves like there is no gas - there is) |
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Oops, see Klaus beat me to the link for an owners manual, lots of helpful members here.
Posted on: 2008/3/6 13:23
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Re: 95 Vette - will not crank (behaves like there is no gas - there is) |
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Your mechanic should need little additional information just to check for fuel and spark but you will want to obtain the manuals as soon as possible if you are keeping the car.
Here is a link to one source, http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/199 ... ervice-Manual-p/60209.htm You mentioned Users Manual, if you mean owners manual which is quite different from the Service Manual here is a link to that which is on-line, hope that helps. http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/199 ... ervice-Manual-p/60209.htm
Posted on: 2008/3/6 13:21
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Re: 95 Vette - will not crank (behaves like there is no gas - there is) |
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There is no timing belt on your car so whatever your mechanic noticed is not related to the failure to start issue.
Cam and Opti-spark distributor are timed to the crankshaft using a chain, inspecting it requires removal of the waterpump, crank pulley, distributor and chain cover. With the low miles on your engine problems with the chain are extremely unlikely, the same is true regarding compression, they were mentioned only because they are required for the engine to run. Checking compression is a simple procedure using a gauge installed after removing the spark plugs, if your mechanic knows anything he will not need further directions, since you are not doing the work yourself allow him to check the basics mentioned earlier. What you can do to help is purchase a factory service manual if you don't have one already, it contains detailed troubleshooting procedures that will assist your mechanic on this and future problems. Some of the information is available on-line using the search function but having a printed version is essential for servicing these vehicles, again good luck and please let us know the outcome.
Posted on: 2008/3/6 9:41
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Re: 95 Vette - will not crank (behaves like there is no gas - there is) |
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If the starter turns the engine over you can rule out VATS (immobiliser to use your term) When you say it has gas I assume you simply mean there is fuel in the tank, that is no guarantee it is reaching the engine. A good first step would be to check for fuel pressure at the rail on the intake manifold, should be close to 40psi. If that checks good, make sure there is spark at the plugs, if you have good spark and correct fuel pressure the only remaining variables are compression and timing, good luck.
Posted on: 2008/3/5 15:51
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Voice of dissent |
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I'll buck the trend once again and say I disagree. The gen 4 specific focus is for me a big part of the attraction. Our cars seem to be the black sheep generation and are shunned by the rest of the Vette community anyway, why not specialize in the niche?
So far the forums here dedicated to other gens exist in name only, there are no posts. Perhaps adding Corvette to the URL will change that by bringing other owners here who would not normally find the site but it will take time if it happens at all. That said, I sincerely hope the changes coming are successful, I don't question Andy's dedication or willingness to help other Vette owners, best of luck.
Posted on: 2008/2/27 11:59
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RE:THE NEW PRESIDENT |
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Quote:
Quote: As others have mentioned I too struggled to stay out of this one but mate I have to admit reading this thread disturbs me. I really felt our two countries were the closest of allies but I am troubled to see you and another of your countrymen bashing the US in a public forum. Was my perception about the friendly people in your country during my visit an illusion or was that deception on the part of you Aussies? I'd be very disappointed to discover that, I thought you took great pride in being straight forward and truthful, perhaps I am naive. I find it interesting that one of you berates President Bush, while the other criticizes replacing him with a woman or African American. Our country certainly has its problems and many here dislike the current administration, in all likelihood results of our next election will reflect that. Americans embrace our freedom of speech and freely criticize our politicians and President, but we get pissed when people from other countries do so, I expect you would feel the same if I started bad mouthing your PM. As friends if you and I choose say such things in private I take it as a matter of trust they will go no further out of mutual respect for the homelands we both hold dear. You made the statement that you really don't know much about our politics and a reasonable man should take that as a cue not to get involved. I'll be the first to admit I know little about Australian politics and even if I did I would not use the forum to express negative feelings if I had them which I don’t’. I would like to know the details of the incident you alluded to regarding lack of US support for Australia rather than some vague "last time we asked" so I can better understand your comments. My theory about mistakes goes something like this, the only way to avoid them entirely is to do nothing at all and I don't see that as being something to brag about. There is nothing easier to do than complain, solutions for problems require action, once taken we run the risk of mistakes, but failure to take action guarantees the status quo. Disagreements occur even between the best of friends, resolving them rather than becoming enemies is the true test of friendship. I doubt any country on the planet is proud of every official action ever taken by their government, what little I do know about Australia tells me you have made mistakes concerning treatment of your indigenous people, just as we have. When looking at the big picture however as red-johnny said, I am proud of American values and assistance to others, I am sure you are just as proud to be Australian. I won't bash your country in public; kindly do the same for mine. I think an apology is called for and will be disappointed if it is not forthcoming.
Posted on: 2008/2/25 12:16
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RE:Help Needed - Torque spec for ZF Pressure Plate |
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My 93 book shows 30 ft. lbs.
Posted on: 2008/2/23 20:52
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RE:Exhaust Manifold Bolt Shoulders? |
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It would be kind of slick if someone would make an assortment package since the position often dictates the type of bolt that will work best, but suppose that is dreaming.
Posted on: 2008/2/23 17:40
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RE:Exhaust Manifold Bolt Shoulders? |
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Check out Jegs or Summit for a huge selection of header bolts to suit nearly any set, most use a smaller head with washer to make installation easier.
Posted on: 2008/2/23 15:59
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RE:Car went on fire...... |
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How about a look at the gasket sealing surface on your heads. I've heard that inner lip on the covers will sometimes hit on certain heads?
Posted on: 2008/2/21 23:22
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RE:Car went on fire...... |
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Okay, could have fooled me, they look to be cast aluminum, and that is what the description says in the Summit catalog.
Posted on: 2008/2/21 21:16
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RE:Car went on fire...... |
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What is cast on the underside of the covers, four "stands" that the bolts pass through, correct?
[web]http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/toptechx6/photobucket%20transfer/DSC_0613Small.jpg[/web] If yours look like this, those four cast stands are what I had to shorten.
Posted on: 2008/2/21 21:01
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RE:Car went on fire...... |
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I have a similar set of covers purchased from Corvette Central, I had to shorten the bolt guide "stands" cast in the covers by about 1/4", they would hit the head before the gasket made contact, you may need to shorten the bolts too if they bottom out after trimming the covers.
Posted on: 2008/2/21 20:19
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RE:Compression Ratio Question....... |
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My parts reference shows different numbers for both the head gasket and piston.
Posted on: 2008/2/21 15:28
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RE:Looking for GM part numbers |
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The part number for a 95 is 12556260, the description indicates it comes with bolts and seals, GM Parts Direct shows it as still available. PM me for a copy of the parts CD if interested.
Posted on: 2008/2/18 21:29
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RE:Tubing or real thick washers |
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Seem to recall seeing steel tubing at Home Depot in various common ID's 5/16", 3/8" etc. if you don't care for the black pipe. It is in the hardware section with the other small flat, angle, square metal stock.
Posted on: 2008/2/18 20:47
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RE:PR&C QUIZ...who said this: |
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Slick Willie.
Posted on: 2008/2/18 15:26
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RE:Yes or No? |
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Since no one else addressed your original question, the part number for the stock lifters is 17120735 if you are still interested.
Posted on: 2008/2/14 9:36
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RE:The Giants did it!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Quote:
Quote: Not sure what you were directing at me but in all honesty no number of previous titles count for shit when it comes to poor sportsmanship, that's what Belichicks' tantrum amounted to. I am delighted by the loss, even if you did miss your chance to witness history, I'm lucky enough to remember Don Shula's 72 team, they had style, class, and sportsmanship.
Posted on: 2008/2/5 15:55
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RE:Failed CA Smog Test |
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Looks like you just missed passing. An oil change and new plugs may make it happen.
If not, before replacing the cats which will be costly, my suggestion would be to find someone who specializes in emission failures and has a five gas analyzer. The initial diagnostic charge may be higher than the "by guess and by gosh" tech but it could save you money in parts, Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Posted on: 2008/2/5 9:46
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RE:Opinions on demand and pricing for repo GS fender flares? |
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Good for you John, look forward to seeing how this develops.
Posted on: 2008/2/4 23:30
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RE:Some forum function strangeness this AM |
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One of Casey's spirit friends perhaps??????
Posted on: 2008/2/4 21:34
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RE:2000 Grand Voyager leak |
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The water pump mounts on the left side of the timing cover on the 3.3 or the front of the car when mounted transversely as in the Caravan. I can send you an illustration if you PM me a regular e-mail address.
Posted on: 2008/2/4 19:45
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RE:Auto trans tip for saturday |
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Thanks Pete, good to see you back doing these, very helpful!
Posted on: 2008/2/4 11:02
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RE:The Giants did it!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Excellent game, thoroughly enjoyed. A Superbowl that will go down in history and be savored eternally by believers in the underdog.
The Giants defense kept the Pats off track and Eli and company delivered just enough offense to get the win, outstanding. Belichick's classic sore loser exit demonstrated why he is universally despised, completely without class.
Posted on: 2008/2/4 9:14
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RE:Super Bowl Sunday |
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There is a God, Patriots lose!
Posted on: 2008/2/4 3:07
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RE:Hello everyone |
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Welcome, glad you joined us!
Posted on: 2008/2/3 17:57
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RE:Dim DS headlight |
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First make sure the ground is clean and tight. My 93 FSM indicates it should be on the frame rail near the parking lamp, your year may be different.
Posted on: 2008/2/2 22:25
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RE:Super Bowl Sunday |
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Ad another vote for the Giants, the Boston area already has the World Championship baseball team, and the best clam chowdah on the planet, lets not get greedy. Besides I despise the Patriots, even if they are unbelievably good.
Posted on: 2008/2/1 12:19
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