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Automatic Transmission - 2 Speed

1st Gear: 1.76/1.82
2nd Gear: 1.00

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   All Posts (dan0617)


« 1 2 3 (4) 5 6 7 ... 25 »


Re: How high have you revved your OHV SBC?
Senior Guru
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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I run my 383 with hydraulic flat tappet cam to 6500 on every wide open shift. Pushes a little higher than that when spraying.

Posted on: 2010/6/6 23:16
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Bitter Sweet Day at the Drags
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From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
But I'm also miffed about why I had no rev limiter. I thought I had specifically asked Brian to set it at stock setting.


Not sure about your year of car or the LT1, but the stock rev limiter in my '89 L98 car is set at like 10,000 rpms. Basically so high that it isn't a limiter at all. Can be lowered, but if someone was doing my tuning for me and I told them to set the limiter at stock, that wouldn't be good.

Also, if any of you are running nitrous or boost (I know you are not but others reading this might be), DO NOT use the rev limiter in the tune. It is a fuel cut rev limiter, not a spark cut. You will go BOOM if you hit it with a power adder.

I turn my 383 (4 bolt block, all forged, 6" rods, hydraulic flat tappet cam) to 6500 rpms on every shift, and have the limiter on the Crane hi-6 set to 7000. My short block builder says the bottom end is good to 8000. I can't imagine turning a stroker to 8,000 but I guess it is possible.?.?

Posted on: 2010/5/14 14:53
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Ordered a Cowl Hood Today
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Good deal Pete! Can't wait to see your car when done. I always thought the cowl hoods looked awesome on C4's.

Posted on: 2010/5/14 14:37
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: My Corvette Has Officially Turned Me Into An All Out Chevy Guy!
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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I unplugged my egr valve (which my programmer allows me to do without throwing any codes) to see how it was. It black smokes less at heavy load low rpms, but my mpg's went down by about 2. Been averaging 16.5 give or take, they went down to about 14.5. Plugged the EGR back in, mpg back up to 16.5 or so. It only black smokes when I lug it so I'm leaving it plugged in. Always thought the egr was hurting mpg's but at least on diesels I'm now sure it helps mileage.

Also, I can get 22 mpg on all highway use as long as I run 65 mph or less. Amazing.


For a 'vette update, I got my nitrous bottle filled and put the 200 shot to it for the first time this year and the first time on the 3.45 gears and the first time since I raised the shift rpms from 6200 to 6500+. WOW. This thing pulls HARD. I know I'm shifting it a hair high for the powerband, but it seems to me wringing it out helps keep the rpms up after the shift and keeps me from falling too far below the powerband for too long. Can't wait to get it to the track, it is running 100% perfect, not a hiccup or stutter or anything. FINALLY DIALED IN!

Posted on: 2010/4/26 23:07
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Trans-go Shift Kit- What to expect after
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Your shift rpms will not change. If you want to change the WOT shift points you need to get a governor recalibration kit from B+M. You can just use the new pins and clips and grind some weight off of the governor's inner weights, or you can use weights supplied with the kit. I bought a double diamond governor (what ours is stock) off ebay for $22.00 and ground it's inner weights and reassembled it with the pins and clips from a B+M kit and it worked fine. The more weight you grind off, the higher the shift.

For part throttle shifts, I tried everything. The only way I got them up was to install a TCI constant pressure valvebody that allows me to set the TV cable wherever I please and won't hurt the trans. I now get 2500 rpm part throttle shifts and 6500 rpm WOT shifts, which is perfect for my setup. With these parts and a little time, you can get your shifts wherever you want them.

If you want your shifts to be even firmer, drain out the fluid and put in B+M trick shift or B+M trick shift synthetic. It lacks the friction modifiers, and that will firm up the shifts even more.

As a side note, on mine, I have the TCI valvebody, then blocked the accumulators, then installed the trick shift fluid. Shifts are lightning fast, which is needed when spraying. I swear I can hear my driveshaft and Ujoints cry a little each time it shifts.

Posted on: 2010/4/26 22:55
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: New Member - 93 Running Poorly
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Unplug the 02 sensor and see how it runs. If it runs better, you need an 02 sensor. They can go bad but not bad enough to throw a code. There are many many things it could be, don't just start throwing parts at it. Go one step at a time. Welcome to the forum!

Posted on: 2010/4/26 22:49
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: My Corvette Has Officially Turned Me Into An All Out Chevy Guy!
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From Tyrone, PA
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Well....been modding the truck. Put a full 4" turbo back exhaust on it, scrapped the cat and the particulate filter. Put in a Quadzilla programmer and have been running it on the 90 RWHP setting. Talk about torque! Man, this truck is amazing. I won't go any higher with the programmer because I'm afraid of smoking the trans.

I don't drive the truck hard normally, babying it I can get about 16.5 mpg average, and get almost 19 mpg mostly highway. Bone stock was in the 13.5 to 14.5 mpg range.

Can't wait to tow with it. Going to the Richmond race at the end of the month. Gotta turn the programmer down for towing, but I'm ready to try it out! Thanks for all the replies guys.

Posted on: 2010/4/18 21:58
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: My Corvette Has Officially Turned Me Into An All Out Chevy Guy!
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Well, I was always a Ford guy in the past, Mustangs and Trucks mainly. Owned many GT's (1983, 1990, 1992, 1994, 1996), modded many of them, never liked one as much as I like the 'vette.

For trucks, I have had many F-250's and an F-150. I had a 1997 with tons of problems, a 1999 V-10 Super Duty with a handful of problems, and a 1998 that broke the camel's back. Went to Dodge, had a 2003 1/2 ton with no problems at all. Went to a 2004 1/2 ton, went to 86,000 miles trouble free. Bought a 2005 3/4 ton and had very few issues up through 132,000 miles. Happy with Dodge but can't stand the rough ride anymore.

My mom buys Taurus's but will never buy another after the loads of issues she has had on the last 2 she has owned.

My brother and dad both have Chevy 3/4 ton trucks with gas engines and have had great luck. Have a friend with a Duramax that loves it and has had no issues. Figured I'd give one a try.

Posted on: 2010/3/28 21:55
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


My Corvette Has Officially Turned Me Into An All Out Chevy Guy!
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Just bit the big bullet....bought an '08 2500 HD 4X4 Crew Cab. It has the Allison/Duramax combo. Thought I'd always have Dodge trucks but they ride soooo rough. Always had good luck with them though. A couple of my friends have newer Chevy trucks and have also had really good luck. I have a 32' fifth wheel so I was sold on a diesel this time around. After test driving the Chevy for a good long while, I was sold. Ride is perfect, and I love the interior layout. Torque is amazing! For fuel mileage, first tank I did alot of using the truck on the job (setting cones, pulling arrow boards, alot of starting and stopping) and got almost 16 mpg. My trucks spend alot of time idling and driving at 5 mph. My friend is getting 19 to 20 on his Duramax on mostly highway, some city driving. Ooh...and it's Blue Granite Metallic with 2 tone (tan/black) split interior. I always buy used trucks and don't get too concerned with color but I couldn't be happier to find the truck I want in the color I like.

I have to apologize for not being on here much lately though....work crazy busy, spent alot of time getting the D44 in the vette and fixing the trans valvebody, then I bought a house 4 weeks ago to fix up and rent out. Now, I have to install mudflaps, nerf bars, and 5th wheel hitch in the new truck. I need to find more time to relax and read threads on here!

Posted on: 2010/3/27 14:09
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Getting a dynotune - suggestions?
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From Tyrone, PA
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jimmymack, your next mod needs to be a higher stall converter. Consider all your options when choosing. Hotcam would be perfect with a 2800 stall but if the car is driven daily I'd go about 2200. If future nitrous use is considered, get one with an anti-balloon plate. You will be amazed at what the right converter can do for a cammed car, and it does even more for our cars as it makes up alot for the stock rear gearing.

I have a TCS converter that is holding up perfectly, but it is a 2800 stall and I think it acts more like a 3200 stall, it's a little loose at normal driving. Check with PeteK, I've heard all good about the converters he has sold, and is who I will see if mine ever goes south.

Posted on: 2010/3/8 13:21
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Getting a dynotune - suggestions?
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From Tyrone, PA
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Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
what can he do with the new O2 sensor that he can't do with the stock ones?


I think he means he needs to weld in an extra bung on each side in order to install the wideband 02 sensors that feed the dyno's computer. They can stick one up in the tailpipe but it isn't as accurate.

Posted on: 2010/3/8 13:18
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Trans is Fixed! Sprag not broken, trans didn't need pulled.
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From Tyrone, PA
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I installed the TCI constant pressure valvebody today, set the shifts to "kill". I didn't put in the new servo that came with it, or the converter control switches and such. Went for a test drive, shifts are HARD, but the converter eats them up some so it isn't overly harsh. It will now go into OD like it should, even when the fluid is cold. I ran it up to about 110 in 3rd gear, then shifted to OD and it went in immediately, so that is fixed too!

I am very happy that the trans doesn't need pulled and is working great. I do have to recalibrate the governor now for some reason, the WOT shifts are way too soon. I had the gov. where I wanted it on the stock trans, but then with the new trans I had to put really heavy weights in it (way heavier than even the stock weights) to get 6000 rpm WOT shifts. Wierd, but I didn't think much of it at the time. Something has obviously been wrong all along in that valvebody, looking back. Now with the new one the shifts are at about 4200. I am going back to the gov. setup I ran with the stock trans to get 6000 rpm shifts and I'll bet it will be spot on.

Part throttle shifts, with the TV cable set as usual, are nice. The 2-3 shift is at about 28 mph at very light throttle, and the more throttle I give it the higher the shift. I'm hoping the gov. change will raise it up in the 35 mph area, but it is already much better than having the 2-3 shift at about 18 mph like it always has been. With the constant pressure valvebody I can play with the TV cable setting and not hurt anything so I might need to do that a little too, but even if that doesn't make a difference I'm happy with it the way it is now.

As a side note, I saw alot of threads on the net about the constant pressure valvebody being bad for the trans because it isn't good to have high pressures at idle. They are not. The pressure is suppose to be low, like any other valvebody, at idle. It just comes up to WOT pressures at fairly light throttle no matter where the TV cable is set. Amazing the myths that occur on the net!

Posted on: 2010/3/8 2:36
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Rough idle and more
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
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Did you get your fuel gauge problem fixed while you were in there?

Posted on: 2010/3/1 12:42
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Rough idle and more
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
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If it were me, I'd put in a new fuel and air filter if they haven't been recently replaced, and clean the IAC valve. If that doesn't fix it, check the fuel pressure when the issue happens. If you are losing fuel pressure after putting in a new filter, I'd be suspect of the screen on the fuel pump, or the line above the pump, or the pump itself. Could be the regulator but doubtful, they usually don't fail like that.

It could also be leaking injectors loading it up when it sits, if it is, try holding the pedal to the floor then starting it, to clear the flood. I think that is the clear flood procedure, you can search it to be sure since I'm not positive.

Posted on: 2010/2/28 17:09
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: would there be a benefit for me running E85?
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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I've wondered myself if a benefit could be had in my engine (high compression also), but it isn't readily available around here so I never pursued it.

Posted on: 2010/2/28 0:54
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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From Tyrone, PA
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That's cool. I'd like to do something different sometime. I love the 1/4 mile blasts but can't bracket race due to no roll cage, can only run test and tunes. The car is street driven at least 3 times a week in the summer and is a vert, so I have no intention of putting in a roll cage, unless I could have one made that could be removed and replaced quickly.

Aqua, you aren't hijacking, you are adding conversation to the thread. Not a bad thing at all!

Posted on: 2010/2/28 0:51
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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Quote:

88BlackZ51 wrote:

I am hoping to get her tuned for the summer. Life is busy, but the project is still a go!

I am looking forward to feeling the 550chp (approx) in the warmer months.


That thing should put some power down for sure. From what I know of your build it sounds like you picked parts that will compliment each other well, which IMO is the most important part of a build. Can't wait to hear what you think of it after you get it dialed in and go ripping around in it.

Posted on: 2010/2/27 20:35
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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Quote:

Aquavet wrote:
Hey guys....nothing is irreplaceable! I live 10 minutes away from the biggest C4 graveyard in the country in Bristol,Pa. ! contemporarycorvette.com
They have to have it! This sounds like an excuse to meet Pete, Dan. Both of us are only 2 and 1/2 hours from nanticoke. Sorry to stick my nose in but If I can grab a part and get to witness The God of transmissions work, I sure wouldn't mind!
Gettin a hip replaced on Wednesday but I'll be up and around in a few days they tell me, so let me know if I can help!
Alan


Wow, hip replacement and up and around in a few days. That is amazing. Good luck with the surgery and the recovery. I guess nothing is irreplaceable. I'll pray for you to have a fast and complete recovery.

Posted on: 2010/2/27 14:59
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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The guy who built my trans thinks it might be a valvebody thing, or possibly the sprag. He said it could be the sprag but figured that when I'm going 65 or 70, then let out of the gas quickly, if the sprag wasn't working the rpms would drop to idle then. I've always wanted to try a TCI constant pressure valvebody anyway. Even if it doesn't fix the one problem, it should allow OD to engage earlier even in cold fluid, and it will let me set the TV cable to get the part throttle shifts where I want and not have any risk of burning up the trans. I ordered one today, I'll keep you posted.

Posted on: 2010/2/26 16:11
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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Quote:

88BlackZ51 wrote:


good to hear buddy.


Thanks. I am very happy with the car for sure. Looking forward to doing some finishing touches to the interior and just enjoying it.

I should have started another thread for the trans questions. Honestly it isn't that big of deal for me. If it stays the same it isn't bothering me much at all since the way I use overdrive it isn't affecting me. Works fine at normal use for overdrive, rpms only drop if I'm going slow in OD or if I slam it right into OD after a long WOT blast. If it gets worse or breaks completely I'll have to pull the trans and get it fixed. Surely not a dealbreaker for this car for me.

How are you making out with your new setup?? I haven't gotten any updates from you lately.

Posted on: 2010/2/23 0:39
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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From Tyrone, PA
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Hey Pete, I was told today that if my governor is set where I want and OD engages at too high of an rpm, I can remove the 3-4 shift valve spring and cut about 1 coil off of it to essentially weaken it. I thought he meant the accumulator spring, he said no, the actual shift valve spring. Is this true? If so, where in my valvebody is the 3-4 shift valve? Do I have to remove the valvebody to get that spring out?

OD engaging at too high of an rpm has been an issue for me from day 1, but the governor is set perfectly for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts so I don't want to change that. IF this would lower the rpm that OD engages I would try it. I realize it won't fix the sprag but it sounds like a new sprag isn't going to fix what rpm the OD engages at either.

Posted on: 2010/2/22 1:44
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Should I be worried about wheel bearings?
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I've often wondered if mine should be replaced. I beat hell out of my car, put alot of torque to the rear wheels, and they have 103,000 miles on them.

Posted on: 2010/2/21 22:52
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
that sucks..


It does, but it is what it is. I just have to decide what to do.

On a 700R4 running mid 10's, I really don't expect more than about 3 seasons out of it. The problem I described didn't just start, it was doing it last year some too......

First thing I noticed was that when in OD and slowing down, once I get below about 45 mph it drops down to idle rpms. Not a problem because I manually shift out of OD when I drop below about 50 mph anyway. Never noticed the other issue till late in the year as I usually never go straight to OD after a WOT blast, I have always slowed down in D first, for the engine braking, then go to OD. Could have been doing it all along and I just never knew it because I never went for OD in that scenario. Don't know.

Since the trans is working perfectly except for OD, and OD works fine other than slow engaging until the trans fluid heats up, and the issue I described above, it makes it hard for me to tear it out of there right now. Alot going on in life AND I don't have my own garage or anything.

I always drive in D until I reach 55 mph, then I shift it to OD. If I'm going to rip it, I drop it to D then go, and I keep it in D till done. So the issues at this point really aren't hindering me at all. I just get annoyed with anything but perfection.


As far as deciding what to do, it's either fix it now, or run it till it dies then do a total rebuild or buy a totally rebuilt trans if it takes the rest of the trans out. I'm 1 season in, if it lasts for 1 or 2 more I'd just as soon run it till it quits.

Posted on: 2010/2/21 22:41
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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What replacement sprag would you suggest for me?

Posted on: 2010/2/21 16:44
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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I'll check on the warranty tomorrow. Do you think the issue with it not trying for OD until the fluid is warm is sprag related as well? I thought it was governor related but I don't know much when it comes to transmissions.

And, does the sprag have anything to do with gears 1-3 and those shifts or is it just OD related?

Thanks again, and I'll quit bothering you after this.

Not sure if a sprag is something I'd tackle myself or not. I never pulled the guts out of a trans case and I have no specialized tools.

Posted on: 2010/2/21 16:21
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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That sucks. I'll have to find out if they used a new one or not. Is this something that is likely to get worse? Does it only affect OD or will it eventually affect all the gears?

Thanks again for the info

Posted on: 2010/2/21 15:49
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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Thanks for the replies.

If it matters, I'm not manually shifting 1-3. I'm putting the car in D and letting it shift automatically. It's when I move the shifter to OD after a WOT blast that I have the problem. But again, if I leave off and stay in D for a little while, then go to OD, it works fine. Once OD is engaged, I can give it throttle and it stays engaged, or I can lift off the throttle and it still stays engaged. Converter is locked. If I floor it, it will shift out of OD and into 3rd (or 2nd if I'm going slow enough) and pull hard, no problems of any kind there.

Does it still sound like a broken sprag, or something else you can think of?

Posted on: 2010/2/21 15:36
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Took vette out for first time with D44
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Only issue Im having is with OD. It works ok if the fluid is warm, and I shift it from D to OD at about 55 or higher. When I slow down to 50 I manually drop it back to D. Problem I'm having is if I romp on it and hold it at WOT from first or second gear, up to about 80 mph or above. When I lift, it is good, as long as I'm in D. If I shift it to OD, or if I started the run and am still in OD on the shifter, the RPMS drop to 900, like idle, when I let off the gas. If I give it gas again, it revs way up like it is in neutral. This only happens if I'm in OD. If I'm in D all is fine, 3rd gear will stay engaged just fine. If I do the run in D, then let off and slow down and drive for about 10 seconds in D, then it will shift to OD just fine. But if I go for OD too early it will do what I described. If I run it up in D to near redline, then lift about 1/2 way and shift it to OD then nail it back to the floor OD does engage ok. I didn't want to try a WOT 3-4 shift as that is one of the hardest things on a 700R4.

I have no intention of tearing the trans out for this because it has no slippage at all during WOT in any gear, and all works fine as long as I don't use OD until 10 or 20 seconds after a WOT blast. Also won't try for OD till the fluid is warm, it just stays in 3rd gear till the fluid warms up some, like after 10 minutes of driving. I think this is a governor in cold fluid thing but not sure. I have the governor set up pretty agressively.

Anyone have any idea what would cause the OD issue after WOT blast? I can't figure it out, especially since it will work just fine 10 seconds or so later.

Posted on: 2010/2/21 2:09
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Took vette out for first time with D44
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.....and it runs badass! Drove around for a while, all is fine. No gear whine or abnormal noises or anything. Love the new gearing, rpms are up about 500 at normal cruise speeds. I had about 1/2 the cam surge worked out with the tune but couldn't do any better. It is about 95% gone now with the higher cruise rpms. Would love to have went with 3.73's but I'd be out of rpms and need to go to OD before the end of the 1/4 mile.

I romped on it from about 50, man it flies through the rpms now. Seat of the pants, it made a huge difference. I am sure it made a big difference above 95 mph when the converter locks, it used to pull pretty decent up there, now it just pulls like a rocketship! I took it up to 130 and it felt great!

I heated the tires a little just to make sure the traction lock was working, and it is. Did a launch from 0, rolled quickly into the throttle. Nearly dead hooked. I think if the roads were perfectly clean and warmer it would have dead hooked. First gear gone in a flash, and second was gone very quick too. And again, it hit third then quickly locked the converter and it kept pulling HARD. Can't wait to spray the 200 shot this year. For the first time in my life I can say I am happy with the power and speed of a car and I'm currently not looking for more!!

Also installed new sunvisors today. Next will probably be a pair of Iggie's seat covers.

Posted on: 2010/2/21 2:02
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: Summit Roller Rockers
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I ran Summit self aligning roller rockers for a year and had no problems at all with them. I actually didn't know to remove the drip tabs from the valve covers and they got caught in the rocker slot between the top of the rocker and the nut. Bent about all my pushrods and my rocker studs and galled up the rockers. I replaced the studs and the pushrods but used the rockers. They worked perfectly.

I never had one back off but I do give an extra little tightening with the wrench after tightening the lock with the allen wrench.

Posted on: 2010/2/20 18:15
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: 113 head chamber question
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Quote:

Aardwolf wrote:
Quote:

dan0617 wrote:
I had a set of 113 heads ported by Precision Motorsports in Florida, and that nub was not there that I can remember. I think they either severely smoothed it out or completely removed it. Wish I had pics but I don't.


The heads I got from you? I took pictures. They didn't do much in the combustion chamber. I have them off and was thinking of touching that area up.

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/Aardwolfki/Porting/head4.jpg[/IMG]

It could be there to have something to do with keeping the plug at an even temp. Not having it fouled or cooled by gas.


Yes, those heads. I stand corrected, the nub is still there. I remembered it on my stock heads but when I bought those ones I didn't remember it there. I had talked to them on the phone even though the heads were done when I boutght them, and removing that nub is one of the things they do, but there are different levels of head work they do depending on what you pay for. I guess that wasn't paid for when these heads were done.

Yes, I would think removing that while they are off would be a good idea.

They also told me they removed .006 from the heads to clean them up. I never had them shaved, so that should be all that was ever taken off of them, if you are considering on having them shaved at all. After that .006 was removed, they were installed and removed, then sold to me and installed and removed, then sold to you and installed and removed, so it might be a good idea to have them checked for flatness before reinstalling.

Posted on: 2010/2/20 16:24
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: 113 head chamber question
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I had a set of 113 heads ported by Precision Motorsports in Florida, and that nub was not there that I can remember. I think they either severely smoothed it out or completely removed it. Wish I had pics but I don't.

Posted on: 2010/2/20 2:14
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: DTC 48 (Mass Air flow Sensor Circuit) Slight rough idle, car cuts out. HELP!
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Wish I could help you but I really can't. I have an '89, which is much different than yours, but every time I had maf codes it was the relay. A cheap part to try, if your car has relays similar to mine. Beyond that, I don't know and I have no experience with an LT1.

Posted on: 2010/2/13 21:43
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: issue
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Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
no.. i haven't been able to go back to work on it.


Quit being afraid of it and get it dunn!

Posted on: 2010/2/13 0:11
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: D44 swap....and D36 diagnosis
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Quote:

Josh wrote:
Put some jack stands or something under the knuckles before you run the car. I chucked a U-joint once running the wheels with the suspension at full droop. Do something to level out the half shafts a bit.


GREAT idea, however too late for me. I ran it on the jackstands for maybe 1 or 1.5 minutes. Took it up to 65 mph tops just once. Mostly 45 and below. Didn't seem to have any problems, but never thought of what you just said, next time I'll do that. I'm hoping you had a U-joint ready to chuck itself anyway and that's why it happened.

I did finish up the rear swap, ran it on the stands, all seemed and sounded fine, speedometer is working (I changed the driven gear for the new rear gearing) and all. I then put the X-brace back on and buttoned up the odds and ends. Barring any problems or noises on the first test drive I'm officially a 3.45 geared D44 rear ready to break into the 11's on motor and rip off a 10.40 on the spray. I'm going to give C409's adapter plate a good test!

Posted on: 2010/2/12 23:41
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: D44 swap....and D36 diagnosis
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Quote:

jhammons01 wrote:
Most Differential (Dana 36/44) experts say to use 80/90w Gear oil and TWO bottles of additive.

So you've put a quart and half in there and how much additive??

The question that would bother me is this. if the thing takes a quart and a half and GM says ONE bottle of additive....then you've put a lube in there that has the additive......hypothetically you should have 1.5 bottle of additive........

So whether you buy into the now day experts say or what GM says.....you are halfway in the middle of both.

Listen, and if you hear the clicking from the Differential, you'll have your answer.


Agreed. I searched the internet pretty heavy with no definitive answer. Many say to add a bottle of additive anyway, many say not to with the Lucas 80W90 gear oil. The bottle says no additive needed for limiited slip differentials and it is GL5 compliant. I'll drive it and listen for any noise at all out of the rear.

My Chilton's says to use 3.75 pints. Mine only took about 1.5 quarts, which is 3 pints. That is after I ran it, put it down on the level, and topped it off. I'm thinking it's because the adapter plate I used takes up some fluid space in the rear.

Posted on: 2010/2/12 23:39
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: D44 swap....and D36 diagnosis
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I ended up going with Lucas rear oil, and no additive. The bottle says no additive needed for limited slip rears, it is already in there. Says it is good for any type of rear with no additive needed. I saw they had Redline synthetic but at $19 per bottle I just couldn't drop the money on it, compared to the Lucas at $7 and change.

Got the rear pieces all bolted back on and done. Got the exhaust back up. All I need to do now is pull a tranny cooler line to get some more tranny fluid out, then refill it with B+M Synthetic Trick Shift (wanted a synthetic fluid so it has less viscosity change to temp, but would still grab good and not slip so I'm trying this). Then bolt the wheels on and run it on the jackstands to make sure all is good and the speedo works and all. After that, just gotta put the X-brace back on and get it down off the stands and the D44 swap is done!

Next up will be a new heavier gauge power wire to the nitrous bottle heaters (since I added a second heater I can smell the power wire melting it's coating), and installation of my new sunvisors.

Posted on: 2010/2/12 15:19
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Suddenly - the dreaded Hard Brake Pedal problem
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They do interchange. I'm pretty sure the number of vacuum ports on the check valve is the only difference, and you can add a vacuum T if you need more vacuum ports.

Posted on: 2010/2/12 15:10
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: poly or delrin suspension bushings on the street?
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I just installed polygraphite bushings from PST in the rear. Performance Suspension Technologies. They are polyurethane but impregnated with graphite. Price was really good on them and reviews I found from searching online were all good. Unfortunately I don't have any personal feedback yet as my car is still on jackstands.

Posted on: 2010/2/12 15:06
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: Long Term FT numbers...
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Sounds like it does need a hair more fuel in that area, but don't go crazy with it. I am running a '89, so totally different, but a 110 LSA cam. I ended up going to open loop tuning to get it to run right. Mine would think it was lean at very very light throttle, due to fresh air going straight out the exhaust. The blms would keep going up and up very fast, and it would read very lean on the wideband too....until I gave it a little more throttle, then the blms would drop like a rock, and it would be very rich on the wideband. Open loop was my only fix.

Sounds like you are fairly close and might get it worked out on closed loop, but if you find a spot at idle or very light throttle cruise that it just refuses to come down in blms no matter how much fuel you add, then gets very rich when you give it a touch more throttle and then the blms tank, you might be having the same issue.

If you can narrow it down to just idle or just one fuel trim cell, try letting it idle for a long time or driving in that fuel trim cell for a long time, then shut it off and check the spark plugs. If it is fresh air going out the exhaust screwing up the 02 sensor, the plugs should still read good. Add or subtract fuel then do it again till you get the plugs looking like they should. If it is doing it in more than just one fuel trim cell then this method won't work and you will likely need to run open loop.

Posted on: 2010/2/12 14:58
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: issue
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any solution found to the problem yet?? I'm kind of curious.

Posted on: 2010/2/10 19:44
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Nascar Fantasy Racing
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It is really amazing what it takes and how long it takes. I ended up buying property, putting in the driveway, septic system, foundation excavation, underground utilities and landscaping myself, and having a homebuilder construct the house. Still was a 1 year pain in the butt. The easiest part was doing the work I did. The paperwork and scheduling was the hard part.

It amazes me that, if going with a mortgage, it takes 1.5 to 2 months to get everything in line for closing.

Posted on: 2010/2/10 16:50
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Suddenly - the dreaded Hard Brake Pedal problem
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Metal boosters came stock on 1984 corvettes. 1985 to 1996 were plastic. You can go into any Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. and order a brake booster for a 1984 Corvette and it will be metal and it will fit. Tell them to pull up a picture of the 1984 booster and another picture of a booster for your year of car, and you will see the difference.

My car is a 1989 and the metal booster I ordered for a 1984 fits and works perfectly.

Here is the link to one at Autozone. It is metal. Be sure to paint it black before installing it or it will look rusty brown in about a week.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/weba ... %7CGRPBRHYAMS_49957739___

Posted on: 2010/2/8 14:41
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Suggest me some rear shocks for drag racing.
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Quote:

dan0617 wrote:

I have never had adjustable, or even good quality, shocks on anything I've ever had. I appreciate any knowledge you care to share!


Dan, a very short primer from a drag racing point of view on the rear shocks:

Bump is when the suspension (A arm) moves up (when the rear squats on launch.
Rebound is when the A arms move down ( when the car start moving forward and the rear starts to move up.

So: with an adjustable, you can taylor the rate that the rear squats on launch. Dialing in more bump forcewill make the rear squat slower.
Once the rear squats, you want to keep it there, IMO, so the more rebound force you dial in the slower the rear will rise up. As the rear rises, you're taking more weight off the rear so, making it rise up slower with more rebound dialed in will keep weight on the rear for a longer period of time.

Note; most of the above is not applicable for a road course.


I think I see what you are saying now. Once the initial weight starts coming off the rear of the car, if there isn't much rebound force dialed into the shock it will try to lift the rear tires up as the rear of the car lifts up.

So, I'd want little bump dialed in, so the weight of the car would go back quickly (transfer), then lots of rebound so the shocks kept the weight of the car pressing down on the rear tires. Is that right, or would I want lots of bump too??

I see there are single adjustable shocks and dual adjustable shocks. I'm assuming the single adjustable means as you adjust the bump up, the rebound force is lowered, and vice versa?

I also hear people saying they set the front shocks to 90/10 for drag racing, I'm guessing the bump is 90, where you push the front of the car up during launch, and the 10 is rebound. Is that right? Then I have friends that say just go with the softest setting possible on front shocks for drag, the weight of the car does the rest.

Posted on: 2010/2/6 16:11
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Suggest me some rear shocks for drag racing.
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Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
have you looked into tokicos?


no I haven't. Don't remember ever hearing of them. I'll check them out.

Posted on: 2010/2/6 2:33
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Suggest me some rear shocks for drag racing.
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
My $0.02, I haven' been heavily involved in drag racing since I was in High school. But I play with a lot of shocks.

I would think that you'd want the QA1s on the rear, that's what you really need to control. With an adjustable, you could dial in a lot of rebound. Once the car squats, rebould will hold it down longer and let the rear rise slower. You can adjust the bump to work on how fast the car squats and possibily use it to work out any tire hop if you have it.
The front is much less important. As long as you have decent shocks to keep it from bouncing around, you're OK.


That is the opposite of what I thought, keeping in mind my thoughts on shocks is very shallow. I have very little knowledge here.

I thought alot of rebound meant the shock would try to push the car up to soon. I was thinking I needed a very soft shock back there, something that would allow it to squat quickly and not rebound very quick. Guess I have alot to learn!

I had one person tell me a long time ago that rear shocks are more important than front in drag racing, other than he, and now you, everyone else has said the rear shocks are of little importance and the fronts are where it's at.

I have never had adjustable, or even good quality, shocks on anything I've ever had. I appreciate any knowledge you care to share!

Posted on: 2010/2/6 2:32
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
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Re: Suggest me some rear shocks for drag racing.
Senior Guru
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2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Thanks for the info! I am prettymuch set on QA1's for the front. Just trying to decide what to do on the rears, if it is worth it for QA1's back there or if cheap normal shocks will be fine. Not sure which way I'll go yet, funding is tight right now so I have a little time to decide.

Posted on: 2010/2/5 23:34
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Suggest me some rear shocks for drag racing.
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Yeah, my front and rear shocks both look like that. They are actually Monroe shocks on the back, Gabriel's on the front. The back look the worst but there is no signs of leakage or anything and it hooks up good on launch so I didn't bother buying new ones. Still not sure if I'm going to or not. I might end up buying another pair of Monroe's or something affordable for now. I just don't want to have shocks that are so stiff they don't let the weight transfer back and then I lose my dead hook launch.

Posted on: 2010/2/5 22:57
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: D44 swap....and D36 diagnosis
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Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
I use gm fluid and additive. A local guy does arca races and that is the fluid they found to be best.
Shocks are bilsteins.


Cool. I'd have thought you were running adjustable shocks. I'm not sure if I should spend the cash on adjustables or just go with some monroe's or something like that on the back.

Posted on: 2010/2/5 22:52
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: D44 swap....and D36 diagnosis
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/30 0:00
From Tyrone, PA
Posts: 1260
Offline
I got into the filter further today, wasn't as heavy as I thought but was a layer on the filter paper. Looks like the same stuff that was in the pan. I was worried because it stuck to the magnet, meaning it had metal in it. I was expecting some black, always find that even on a normal non high performance trans when I do a filter change, but wasn't expecting anything metallic at all. I guess I'll just run it till it quits, or maybe it won't quit.

Pete, what do you use for differential fluid? And what front and rear shocks do you drag race your 'vette with, if you don't mind me asking?

Posted on: 2010/2/5 22:24
_________________
´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's.
On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft.
On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer



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