the F1 is a great tire. Don't get the EMTs... they ride like a truck.

the only down is their price... check www.tirerack.com

rarely will the ECM cause the car to not start or run... it will run badly, but still run most of the time.

If you ahve fuel, and spark, it should run.

I donno what to think... I donno if the opti can go on wrong or not, on the later versions, it can't, but I think it might on the earlier ones... it's been a LONG time since I replaced mine!!

did you check the knock sensor?

the nut count means that those are more than likely ORIGINAL!

All aftermarkets I have ever dealt with have 2 nuts.

if kumho makes them.

check summitomo.

sounds like the problem is with the MAP...

any codes?

Did you check the harness to be sure it's ok?

What does it do at 2000 rpm? Bog? die? Have you checked fuel pressure? a bad filter or pump could do this.

Is this 2000 RPM in gear or in neutral?

a thought... you are going to be eating some serious parts costs... when you see a part (think engine) for sale at a good price, it's wise to grab it. Used... who cares... grab it.

the idea behind the two nuts is to not have any one all that tight.

odd.

I agree, I would get a cutting wheel on that nut and rip it clean off....

those look smoke'n cool. :D

way cool!!!!

the offsets are different with the ZR1. those would stick out. the GS uses a standard C4 offset. They will only a little bit. The 50mm offset should be the standard C4 offset. The ZR1 used a 36mm offset, IIRC.

knock sensor. I don't see how the KS is gonna keep the engine from starting.

when cold, the engine runs off of tables... at least to start.

So you have spark... you have fuel... no start.

Do you know for a fact that the injectors are firing?

remove the rail and put little paper cups under each injector. have someone try to start the car. that will confirm or deny if the injectors are firing.

getting spark or fuel?

time to go back to the basics...

PMU? I am assume you mean the engine controller, right?

H42 should mean that the knock sensor has grounded. However, a bad knock sensor won't effect startup... it will still run, just not right.

that price was SICK!!!!!!!

I don't remember it being that much! Or even close!!!

check some of the salvage yards. www.vette2vette.com and contemporary corvettes come to mind.

yes, I agree.

I have replaced that controller on my wifes 87. It caused her blower motor to not run past about speed 2, period...

I ended up replacing the motor at some point, but for a different reason - the bearing went!

sounds like a screwed up blower relay... I would start there.

it is. it is the factory service manual. Helm publishes them for GM.

check ebay, too. Sometimes there is a back order for the older ones.

should work fine - sans the bladders of course.

the power seats are independant of the sport seats. Two separate harnesses.

The book you need is the Helm Factory Service Manual - www.helminc.com

Later today, I will check my 1987 and 92 books and confirm my feelings - that circuit never changed.

this can be tricky...

try this: if you over adjusted (under? not sure) the latch, it might just be too tight. Have someone sit on that corner of the hood, then pull the release and then lift up. It might just need releaved a bit.

The other option is to make a tool that will hook the cable and pull it.

Another option is to pray....

Welcome aboard!

I would just get NAPA rotors. I have them on my 92 and they are really great! They have been there 17 months. no vibrations or anything.

Welcome aboard!

I am glad you found it! Oil in the opti is a real problem.

I will sound a slight bell of alarm... be cautious with the CRC inside the Opti. It could get into the bearing and cause bad things to happen. It's one thing to wipe down with, but another to soak with.

welcome!

I will actually get that CD out tomorrow... things have been cwazy...

welcome aboard! :thumbright:

actually, yes.

The L98 system SUCKS WIND. It has a pair of precats, and a central cat.

I feel that more than half of the 50 hp found in the LT1 came from the better exhaust.

The dual cats of the LT1 have much better flow characteristics than the L98 cats.

The only question is the O2 sensor... the LT1 system has one on each bank. the L98 has only one.

I don't like the idea of "true duals." The problem is that each bank is running independantly. Duals are fine, but at least install an xpipe to help scavaging.

Welcome aboard vetteblonde!

My 92 has 162k miles on it! I know what you mean by an old beat chevy!!

I found that many of these bits get real expensive real fast!

When my friend Nelson V. (not a C4 Guru member, but a friend at CF) lost the 700R4 in his 71 Chevelle (backed by a 454, thank you), we explored the possibility of doing a 4L80E... and man the controllers were EXPENSIVE. Like $999.00 worth of expensive!

Welcome aboard!

ooh, that is cool.

you REALLY need to get a factory service manual... www.helminc.com.

But with both the radio and the climate controls wigging, I would start checking power.

The radio - be it Delco or Bose - uses a brain box (1990-1996). This box is what powers the radio head unit, and contains all the brains for the reciever.

The same thing applies for the climate control head. It is also a dummy, running with the programmer.

I would start checking all main grounding points. The dash is grounded at 2 main points, each in the kick panels, one on the left, one on the right.

Check them for corrosion.

I find it odd that both are freaking... which leads me to think something in common is wrong, and that is what the Helm manual would help you resolve.

there are firms that can restore rims, there is one in PA... house of wheels or something like that. Expect about 100.00 per rim.

Basically, unless you can put a polish to them, you don't have enough tools to do it right.

The other option is to save up for new rims.

Another new member!

This is great! Welcome!

serious job! I did this in the wifes 87... and another friends 93. What a PITA with the engine in!

As a side note, if you are ever having a steering problem, check the serp belt... if coolant is dripping on the belt, all bets are off. Obviously, this is not the problem here, but something to keep in mind.

year?

I agree, check to see if the manifold can be welded.

Another option, depending on where you live, is to find a used part at a salvage yard. The only risk here, the EPA makes selling used cats illegal. Odd, isn't it?

I donno about "cutting" the cat off. This means someone has to make a manifold.

One last option would be an aftermarket header. Never know... could fix the problem and add 50 hp!

Welcome Ralphie!

It's our members. I know, sounds trite. The idea here is simple: we help each other.

What else makes us special? Our Tech Library.

We all do projects. What I ask is that when you do a project, document it! Take a few pictures as you go and then send the pics and some text to me for final composition (it's how I keep my title :thumbright: ).

Once done, the documents become Tech Tips that everyone on the site can access and share.

So whenever you have a tech question, check the C4 Guru Tech Library, first! You never know, it might have been covered! If you haven't checked it before, take a moment, scan it and become familiar with what it offers and what it has.

Also, when you see an error, please share!

Thanks,

Andy Bogus
Content Editor

Welcome aboard!

I am a little biased... my 92 is Polo Green!

This one is covered in the Tech Library.

wow. that would do it.

I hope warantee is covering that junk cam. that sucks.

hm... the O2s are seeing lean, yet the car is going rich.

that's odd.

Hi! Welcome aboard!

My wife has an 87... it's a POS.

a set of AFRs with questionable QC? Never happen.

whatever is happening, it's going real rich as the RPM rise. I wonder what the O2 is seeing/doing.

1997? That's a C5... I donno how to help you on that. Considering the advanced chassis and engine controls, I would not be surprised if there was a code for that.

Check MSD or Taylor. I have heard/had good luck with both.

I don't remember the NGK number, but you can get them at Advance Auto.

I would also check the fitment of the wire to the plug. Are they original wires?? I wonder if when you removed them for the new plugs, that something was damaged? Did you use dielectric grease on the wires?

also, the puck is so small, it blows out or up... not sure which.

The ICM is part of the coil. It's behind it.

However, there is a lot more that could cause this than a bad opti.

When was the last tune up? What plugs did you get? If you are running AC Delco Platinums, you are screwed... they suck. There are these little platinum pucks bonded to the ground strap that fall/burn off. The gap then grows from .050 to .065. Junk.

Get NGK Platinum or Iridium.

I really hate it when "experts" start blaming the opti at every turn. 1995-1997 LT1s had a vented opti. It had postive flow through ventilation. As such, much of the moisture related failures were ended. And most of those failures were caused by carbon tracing on the cap/rotor.

Finally, without a wondering idle, I don't think it's even the cap/rotor.

The symptoms of a bad opti:

1. Codes. This means the electronics are failing.

2. wondering idle. This means that the cap/rotor are not effectively passing the voltage, the computer senses the misfire and tries to adjust timing. It's a no-win situation.

3. high rpm miss. This is the same as #2... but without the wondering RPM. It just misses.

Check the coil wire. Make sure it's a) not chaffed and b) that it's connected to the opti and the coil completely. Check the coil wire terminal ends for burns and such as caused by arcing.

pump? eh... I am not so convinced. I would love to see a fuel pressure gauge put on the car. Pumps die a little differently than that.

I would do a filter, which is needed, I suspect, and monitor.