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'96 Collector LT1 Alternator Connector |
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Guru Newb
 
Joined:
2006/4/2 0:00 Posts:
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Quote:
What year do you have? I should have written "F": "P" is not used! On the '96 schematic (and on my wiring harness)"S" is red and goes to (eventually) the battery. "F" is BRN and goes to VALET Fuse 17. "L" is BRN and goes to CLUSTER Fuse 27. I will just have to trace "L" out to the connector (C100A/C100C) which is at the firewall near the battery. Thanks.
Posted on: 2006/4/3 23:02
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RE:'96 Collector LT1 Alternator Connector |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/26 0:00 From Sonoma, Ca
Posts:
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What year do you have?
I am no electrician, but looking at the schematic for a 95 I see that wire "L" (Brown) goes to the charge indicator light. Teminal "P" is not used on my schematic. One "Red" wire from alt. battery goes to a Blue wire & then to a fusible link in the underhood fuseblock #1. Red wire from alt. "S" goes to a Black wire, fusible link & then to the underhood fuse block #1. I can run a scan for you if you like.?
Posted on: 2006/4/3 17:51
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'96 CE Alternator Connection |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/4/2 0:00 Posts:
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The voltage regulator/alternator connector was destroyed and the alternator already removed when I got my '96 so I just have the 3 leads hanging out of the harness. On the replacement connector I bought, P is black, L is brown and F is red (OK so far).
On the wiring harness, both of the small leads appear to be the same color, brown. There is no stripe or other marking to differentiate between the 2 brown leads. What is the difference in voltage running thru these 2 leads? Will it matter which actually serves as P or L? Thanks, Patdaddy
Posted on: 2006/4/3 0:34
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'96 Collector LT1 Alternator Connector |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2000/11/10 0:00 Posts:
35
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When I purchased my CE, the alternator had been removed and the voltage requlator connector was broken apart. Now I have 2 brown leads (identical to the naked eye) and the red one from the wiring harness. On the replacement connector I bought, P is black, L is brown and F is red.
How do I know which of the 2 brown leads in the harness are P or L? What is the difference in voltage running thru these 2 leads? What purpose does each of these leads serve? Will it matter which actually serves as P or L? Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted on: 2006/4/2 15:26
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Re: Dead Vette |
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Guru
Joined:
2005/9/16 0:00 From Central Maryland
Posts:
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It's time for some serious troubleshooting. You either need to get this car to a competent mechanic, or get a Factory Service Manual and learn to do your own work.
Start by fully charging the battery again. Get yourself a voltmeter. Measure the voltage at the battery. Fully charged, it should read at least 12.6 volts DC. If the car won't start with a charged battery, begin the troubleshooting process. Measure system voltage while attempting to crank. If it falls below around 10 volts, either the battery won't take a full charge, or there's a high resistance somewhere in the system. This can be chased down with a voltmeter, but you need to have a decent understanding of basic electricity and/or a troubleshooting guide in a service manual to sniff out such a problem. Be well, SJW Quote: Seeking anyone?s help in my dilemma.
Posted on: 2006/3/31 15:06
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Dead Vette |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/29 0:00 Posts:
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Seeking anyone?s help in my dilemma.
A few months ago my 87 vettte would not start. I was able to jump start it and take it to Sears to have the battery replaced. I was able to start it and drive it back to work. When I went to start it again it was dead. I had it towed home, when the flat bed set it on the driveway it started again. Assuming it was the remote starter I removed the remote starter and replaced the starter motor since it wasn?t immediately disengaging after starting. While driving on the highway it began loosing power, smoking and it stalled. Again it was towed home, and started again after it was released from the flat bed. The following day it started by stalled while idling. I replaced the ignition pick up coil and module, and fully charged the batter overnight. The next morning it did start but after idling for approx 8-10 mins it stalled again and to this day it has not started again. I had the batter replaced but it will not start, the interior lights do not illuminate, the horn doesn?t sound, it has no signs of acknowledging electricity from the battery. Can anyone PLEASE offer some suggestions to repair my major DILEMA? Thanks in advance.
Posted on: 2006/3/29 20:44
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RE:Introduction |
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Guru Emeritus
 
Joined:
2005/9/8 0:00 From Los Angeles
Posts:
277
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Welcome Lou (Rabbit)
Posted on: 2006/3/28 0:28
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_________________
Edlebrock Heads, 2030 cam, X-ram w/EGR, 1.6 R/R, Bored TB´s, AFPR, Pro-built Tranny, Vigilantly 2600, Transgo, Dana 44 3.54, Hardened Pushrods & Head Bolts, Custom performance chip, K&N, Double roller timing chain, Aluminum radiator & flex hose, MS |
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RE:Introduction |
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Guru Emeritus
Joined:
2005/9/6 0:00 From New Albany, IN
Posts:
1308
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Welcome!!!!
Posted on: 2006/3/27 22:06
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RE:Brakes 101 |
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Guru
Joined:
2005/9/16 0:00 From Central Maryland
Posts:
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I too found the high pedal effort on my C4 to be a bit unnerving until I got accustomed to it.
Bottom line is: If you can stomp on it hard enough to activate the ABS, everything's probably normal. If you can't get into the ABS even when standing on the pedal, look for something that's amiss... Be well, SJW
Posted on: 2006/3/27 18:36
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RE:Brakes 101 |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/19 0:00 Posts:
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Thanks for the reply. Helps set my mind at rest.
Posted on: 2006/3/27 0:36
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/26 0:00 From Sonoma, Ca
Posts:
11
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Test
Posted on: 2006/3/27 0:18
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horn interchange |
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Guru
Joined:
2005/12/12 0:00 From OREGON
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127
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hello, my horns on my 84 are slowly dying, and i would like to know what vehicles i could use the horns from that would be a direct plug and play?
thanks
Posted on: 2006/3/27 0:08
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_________________
1990 roadster 
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Introduction |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/26 0:00 From Sonoma, Ca
Posts:
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Hello, my name is Lou (rabbit). I also just hopped over from CF.
Posted on: 2006/3/26 22:11
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RE:E-Brake question....... |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
 
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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damn. you suck.
it sounds like the racheting mechanism has given up the ghost. you will have to remove the driver seat to get to it...
Posted on: 2006/3/25 2:37
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RE:94 C4 Fuse Box Location? |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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this one is a pain... it's under the passengers side knee bolster... remove the carpeted panel above ones knee on the passengers side.
it's burried under there somewhere.
Posted on: 2006/3/25 2:35
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94 C4 Fuse Box Location? |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/24 0:00 Posts:
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hey guys..very nice site indeed!
i was wondering, i just bought this C4 (first 'vette owned,ever), and was needing to locate the fuee box for the main accessories (cig lighter,radio,etc). where is it at and how do you get to it? lol. thanks in advance.
Posted on: 2006/3/24 23:08
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E-Brake question....... |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/2/15 0:00 From Laurel DE
Posts:
37
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on my 96' the e-brake won't always engage. I can feel it ride up the ratchet mechanism as I pull the handle up but it fails to "bite" and fall to the floor without engaging. Any ideas ????
No Bogus I won't give you the car because it's broke ! :lol:
Posted on: 2006/3/22 23:40
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RE:Well I hope she's good to me...... |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/2/15 0:00 From Laurel DE
Posts:
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Not only did she pass but I sweet talked the young lady I dealt with and she got me a low enough numbered plate that I could get porcelein plates made up. And I got the news that I can close the deal tomorrow on my new (new to me) truck !!!!! <happy jig, happy jig>
Life is good !
Posted on: 2006/3/22 23:33
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RE:Well I hope she's good to me...... |
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Guru
Joined:
2005/9/16 0:00 From Blue Mound, Illinois
Posts:
98
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Break a leg! :D
Posted on: 2006/3/22 20:00
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RE:Brakes 101 |
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Guru
Joined:
2005/9/16 0:00 From Blue Mound, Illinois
Posts:
98
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Typically, C4 brakes are a little stiff. If you've never driven 1 before it takes some getting used to.
Posted on: 2006/3/22 19:58
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Well I hope she's good to me...... |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/2/15 0:00 From Laurel DE
Posts:
37
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If all goes well, tomorrow night Arisa will be tagged and legal. God I hope she passes this time. I put the factory exhaust back on because I was sounding off and 105.6 dB and Del state law is 95 or 96 dB. Gessss what a bunch of wussys :roll: Anyway she is quiet as a church mouse now <sigh>.
I haven't driven her in almost a year now. I slipped out and down about a half mile to the church below me and came back. Oh man I had almost forgotten why I love this car so. I can't wait to get her real exhaust back on. WooHoo !!! Wich me luck !!!!!!!!!!!
Posted on: 2006/3/22 0:22
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break pedal very firm and need a hard push |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/19 0:00 Posts:
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Hi all C4 fans. I have just bought a 1990 C4 coupe and I have a question about its breaks.
The break pedal is very firm and to get the car to stop quickly it requires quite a lot of pressure. Is this normal for C4's or is there a problem with the breaks? If you think it requires work and new parts does anybody have an idea of what sort of money it will take to fix? Thanks in advance, Billy.
Posted on: 2006/3/19 20:06
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RE:??? |
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Guru Emeritus
Joined:
2005/9/6 0:00 From New Albany, IN
Posts:
1308
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Everyone is allowed to post pics, but we don't host them. You have to have you own host.
And by the way..there are 5 mods and 310 members....I don't see your calculations???
Posted on: 2006/3/15 0:00
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RE:??? |
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Guru Emeritus
Joined:
2005/9/8 0:00 From Los Angeles
Posts:
277
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Here's a pic for ya.....
Posted on: 2006/3/14 20:04
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_________________
Edlebrock Heads, 2030 cam, X-ram w/EGR, 1.6 R/R, Bored TB´s, AFPR, Pro-built Tranny, Vigilantly 2600, Transgo, Dana 44 3.54, Hardened Pushrods & Head Bolts, Custom performance chip, K&N, Double roller timing chain, Aluminum radiator & flex hose, MS |
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??? |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/14 0:00 Posts:
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why cant we post pics, what kind of forum is this, more mods than users?, and no pics, WOW this is awsome
Posted on: 2006/3/14 18:21
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All Show-More Go |
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RE:Brakes 101 |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/1/15 0:00 Posts:
10
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Just wanted to thank those who helped me with the brake post. This past weekend I finally worked up enough courage to tackle the front pads and rotors. I can't say it was easy but somehow I managed to get them installed and working :D I managed to snap a caliper pin bolt because I overtorqued it out of ignorance. Having no previous experience with a torque wrench, I keep listening for a click on the 22-24 pound bolts but apparently my torque wrench doesn't make an audible click on lower settings, so here is this dummy torqueing away until SNAP :oops: Good thing I had extra bolts and pins. :lol: Well next weekend I'm hoping to get to the rears and hopefully learn from my mistakes. Thanks again.
Posted on: 2006/3/13 21:50
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RE:optispark troubleshooting and replacement |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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well, it won't do that... if the opti dies, it will effect all plugs equally.
As for upgrades, since you are after absolute power, I would look at the LTCC. Put on an OEM opti, remove the rotor and seal the cap with RTV. That should about do it.
Posted on: 2006/3/13 5:15
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RE:96 CE - Lighting Upgrades - Suggestions? |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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Hella makes a conversion that allows for better quality bulb replacements.
I think they are H2 bulbs, so they are replaceable, versus being sealed beams. I agree with Al on getting better bulbs for the fogs...
Posted on: 2006/3/13 5:12
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RE:96 CE Climate Control |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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that sounds like a vacuum problem.
There are a number of hoses that come off the right side of the intake (under the fuel rail covers). I would check to be sure the vacuum or the connector isn't broken. If it ain't that... you will have to start digging. Do you have the Helm factory service manual? If not, get it. Within the FSM, there are instructions on how to get codes out of the climate control programmer. Also, any lights flashing on the climate controller? The auto light will flicker if there are problems, but you can still learn things about the status of the system from checking the codes and status indicators. I have the FSM for my 1992, but I don't know if the codes or procedures stayed the same. If I was a betting man, I would check for vacuum related problems.
Posted on: 2006/3/13 5:10
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RE:96 CE - Lighting Upgrades - Suggestions? |
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Guru Emeritus
Joined:
2005/9/8 0:00 From Los Angeles
Posts:
277
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The cheepest way to go is Silverstars for the fogs, that's what I did on my 84, I also found a place on Ebay and bought some bright white headlamps. The fogs are great but the headlights could be brighter.
Posted on: 2006/3/8 16:56
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_________________
Edlebrock Heads, 2030 cam, X-ram w/EGR, 1.6 R/R, Bored TB´s, AFPR, Pro-built Tranny, Vigilantly 2600, Transgo, Dana 44 3.54, Hardened Pushrods & Head Bolts, Custom performance chip, K&N, Double roller timing chain, Aluminum radiator & flex hose, MS |
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96 CE - Lighting Upgrades - Suggestions? |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/7 0:00 From Massachusetts
Posts:
2
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My 1996 Collectors Edition LT4 has what I consider to be poor lighting. I'd like to upgrade the headlights and stock fog lamps with something brighter, without either having to break-the-bank or replacing everything.
Any suggestions? Brian
Posted on: 2006/3/7 21:07
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96 CE Climate Control |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/7 0:00 From Massachusetts
Posts:
2
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I have a 1996 Collectors Edition LT4 with 130,000+ miles on it and it runs very strong. However, the Climate control system has never worked well at all. I can't get the airflow to change from coming out the de-fogg outlets near the base of the windsheild. the AC works, cools and heater heats. But I cant change the airflow to the floor for heat on my toes or to the dash for AC in the summer.
Help?
Posted on: 2006/3/7 20:56
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optispark troubleshooting and replacement |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/3/5 0:00 From Lafayette, LA
Posts:
1
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Okay, I was running my 96 CE hard up to, well, exceeding the speed limit running from an irritating little 350Z and when I let out of it the car was dead. Never could restart... After troubleshooting today, (worried about jumped timing chain, 173,000 miles) so, checked timing with timing light on #1 plug. No light flashing. so I pulled #2 plug cuz it was easier to get to, saw fire. Assumed timing light was broke so pulled #1 plug to manually check timing and no fire. Then saw that #2 was firing intermittenly.
Here's my questions, would the opti go out on one plug and then intermittenly fire on the other? Also, (after the fact, I was told that it is a BAD thing to pull the plugs old school to check for spark)... is it really detrimental the the system and how so? Last question... with all the "improved" options for the opti (delteq, LTCC, msd opti.. etc..) what would ya'll recommend as a replacement? Currently just trying to maintain the car until I have my shop built, then shooting to rebuild it as a 500hp naturally aspirated engine, would like to upgrade to something that could be transferred over to a high performance engine with everyday reliability.. (everybodys dream)... Thanks, Brian Lafayette, LA
Posted on: 2006/3/6 5:16
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RE:Replacing Bose |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/2/15 0:00 From Laurel DE
Posts:
37
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Quote:
that looks GREAT Neal! Awesome! It was in there when you drove her. I think you were to preoccupied with the engine :twisted:
Posted on: 2006/3/3 15:40
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RE:PLEASE VOTE!!! |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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To quote Mayor Richard Daley, "Vote early, vote often."
Posted on: 2006/3/1 5:57
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RE:Replacing Bose |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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that looks GREAT Neal! Awesome!
Posted on: 2006/3/1 5:55
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RE:1985 Dash Flicker |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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I would be surprised if the wires did it, but you can test the theory...
Posted on: 2006/3/1 5:51
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RE:87 c4 roller cam or not? |
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
Posts:
20859
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1987 is a roller lifter.
the roller lifter started with the aluminum heads in 1986.
Posted on: 2006/3/1 5:50
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1985 Dash Flicker |
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Guru Newb
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2000/11/10 0:00 Posts:
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I replaced the plugs/wires/cap/rotor/coil and ICM on my '85 over the weekend. Now when I crank it, the digital dash instrument cluster flickers at idle but is ok at speed. Could this be caused by the following: When I went to remove the old ignition control module and disconnected the wires from each end of it, the brown plastic "cradle" (for lack of a better word) where the wires rest that connect to one side of the ICM (the side towards the front of the car) was so brittle from heat and age that it basically fell apart. I removed the broken pieces and when I went to purchase another one discovered the local parts stores didn't have this item available so I put it all back together without this plastic piece. Was this serving as some sort of voltage insulator? The dash lights never flickered before at idle. Thanks!
Posted on: 2006/2/27 15:27
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RE:Maybe I'm trying to hard |
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Guru Emeritus
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2005/9/6 0:00 From New Albany, IN
Posts:
1308
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Dude, that is cool! I wish I can talk about reation times and so forth, but I ahve never raced at the track. We have a 1/8th mile around here, but it doesn't seem like it would be the same as a 1/4 mile when comparing performance.
Awesome that you brought home some trophies!
Posted on: 2006/2/26 3:46
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Maybe I'm trying to hard |
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Guru Emeritus
Joined:
2005/9/8 0:00 From Los Angeles
Posts:
277
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Today at the track I cut some good lights (.018, .029), my worst being a .162, that said I had a best RT of .003 which got me a by run, but in the second round I red lit with -.003, boy that sucks. Anyway I came home with two trophy's, and more points in the overall standings. Three races down, ten more to go. Just sharing.
Posted on: 2006/2/26 3:24
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_________________
Edlebrock Heads, 2030 cam, X-ram w/EGR, 1.6 R/R, Bored TB´s, AFPR, Pro-built Tranny, Vigilantly 2600, Transgo, Dana 44 3.54, Hardened Pushrods & Head Bolts, Custom performance chip, K&N, Double roller timing chain, Aluminum radiator & flex hose, MS |
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RE:Didn;t know where else to put this question |
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Guru Emeritus
Joined:
2005/9/6 0:00 From New Albany, IN
Posts:
1308
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haahahah...I don't know who that guy is. I found him on the net and liked it and thought it went with the "technical" theme.
Posted on: 2006/2/26 2:21
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RE:Replacing Bose |
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Guru Emeritus
Joined:
2005/9/6 0:00 From New Albany, IN
Posts:
1308
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Thats tight!!!
Posted on: 2006/2/26 2:12
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RE:Replacing Bose |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/2/15 0:00 From Laurel DE
Posts:
37
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Quote:
The corvette interior is VERY small... so lots of speakers are not the solution. AMEN !!!! I have almost six months in designing mine to fit the way I wanted it to ! Here are some pics.....    
Posted on: 2006/2/26 1:58
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Didn;t know where else to put this question |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/2/15 0:00 From Laurel DE
Posts:
37
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Who's the cat at the top of the screen holding the cresent wrench in the threating manner :lol:
It looks like a guru imitating Al Pacino.... "Say hello to my little friend" Bawahahahahahahahhahahhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.............. BTW if anyone comes near Arisa with a cresent expect then to get thier knuckles whacked with it !!!!
Posted on: 2006/2/26 1:42
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RE:PLEASE VOTE!!! |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/2/15 0:00 From Laurel DE
Posts:
37
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A linking we will go, a linking we will go. Feels like Myst for some reason :lol:
Posted on: 2006/2/26 1:30
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RE:87 c4 roller cam or not? |
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Guru
Joined:
2005/9/16 0:00 From Blue Mound, Illinois
Posts:
98
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The roller cam was introduced in '87 I believe. They way you described looking at your rockers, I believe you are confusing a cam with roller lifters vs roller rocker arms. Your car has a roller cam (roller lifters), but does not have roller rocker arms, although roller rockers can be installed as an upgrade over stock.
Just as a side note: it's also possible to build and engine with roller rocker arms without having a roller cam. I hope that cleared things up.
Posted on: 2006/2/24 17:15
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
Joined:
2005/9/7 0:00 From San Pedro, CA
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I would bet there is air in there somewhere.
The t-stat will make it run super hot... or not... realize that the t-stat does not regulate temperature, it only says how hot the coolant has to be before the engine is at full temp. I agree, if the temps drop as you move, the stat is more than likely ok. I would be sure that the intake area is clean. That is a real killer. Debris gets stuck between the radiator and the AC condenser. I also suggest adding a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. It works! It chemically reduces the surface temperature of the metals so the coolant can better transfer heat. I use it, and it works! A properly functioning cooling system should not exceed 200F during regular use... and if you are cruising along, 195F is normal. A question, did you press the gauges button to see what the digital temp was reading? There are 2 temp sensors on the engine, one on the front of the waterpump (digital, ECM feed) and the other is on the right head (between plugs #'s 6 & 8), this one feeds the analogue gauge. From where I am sitting, if the analogue gauge was reading hot, and the digital was not, then I would bet money on it being an air bubble. If the digital was reading hot, it would light up the IP with a "check gauges" warning. Oh, with these cars, the AC will fire up the fans, not just the defrost. If you have C68 (electronic climate control) the AC is on all the time, regardless of heat/cool. It provides humidity control, too.
Posted on: 2006/2/24 4:23
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2014 Memorial Day Car Show Winner!
 
Joined:
2005/9/16 0:00 From Lakin, Kansas 67860
Posts:
12374
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When you say overheats, just how hot does it get? They actually tend to run pretty warm and 230-240 doesn't seem to be out of the ordinary when sitting still. These cars are bottom breathers (intake under front bumper), and air flow is not the greatest when sitting still. Another thing that you might want to check is the build-up of junk between the AC condenser and radiator, because they also tend to act like a vacuum cleaner and suck up all sorts of road debris.
There is a tech tip on how to remove the radiator and clean the junk out. Here's one that I wrote and posted on "another forum". http://www.crossedflags.com/nuke/html ... =&order=0&thold=0
Posted on: 2006/2/24 4:14
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93 LT1 Overheating |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2006/2/13 0:00 From Fraser, Michigan
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Just got my new to me '93 Polo/Tan conv.
Very clean car, 59K, Auto, Had the coolant changed as I had no idea how old it was (looked fine) and drove it to work (8miles) without issue. Sitting in the parking lot for 5 minutes idling I notice the coolant temp gauge at the 3rd notch and rising. Shut car down and return to shop after work who changed coolant. Shop re flushed/changed coolant, bled system at top of engine and all seemed OK after several minutes of idling but overheat returns. I know that: The coolant is moving in the tank. Should be no air in system. Fan does operate when defroster turned on as it should. Car returns to normal temp after driving short distance at 30-45mph. It was suggested that a new thermostat is needed. If so why does it cool down driving it? Cooling down means thermostat OK by me. I'm stumped. My only thought is that the fan is not operating when it should. It does go on when defroster turned on. When I drove the car from Wisconsin Saturday no such issue but it never sat around idling, it was going 70 for 400 miles. The new fluid is green as it should be for this year. Thanks for your opinions. Craig
Posted on: 2006/2/24 0:48
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