My local trans guy was saying the E has an aluminum valve body and that lets the case twist more? Any truth to that?

540 CID, 638 HP, on the stock air filter? It can't be real. LOL

Nice car!

Better 3/4 pack?

You did a similar track event and what was the new temp and pressure exactly versus where you normally see it?

Did you have similar oil level and has anything else been changed or modified since your last track outing?

-Tony

Normal oil pressure 45, new 65. Normal oil temp 195, new 165. The oil temp reading low really throws me for a loop, since the car has the coolant fed stock oil cooler. I have a road race oil pan waiting to go on, maybe I'll dig into that and inspect what I can while there.

I don't know a lot about the bypass system, in the engine and in the filter. If there were any issues there I can't see how more oil would get cooled. Maybe there is a restriction/debris in the stalk, as both senders are there both could be affected by that.

Yes this is real, yes the pressure does fluctuate. The pressure reads 4 PSI before I start the car. No other issues, besides the low oil temp.

I went to Blackhawk Farms this weekend. It was hot but the car only went up to 200° coolant and 230° oil temps.

My trans read 225° though and stopped shifting. I thought it was burned up but it did get back working after it cooled.

No, no more poop. How about a brain teaser instead..

What would make my car suddenly gain 20 PSI of oil pressure, and drop 30° of oil temp. Normally it ran 45 PSI at cruise and 195° oil temp. My car has the stock oil cooler. So I'm not sure how it's mechanically possible for the oil temp to be cooler then the coolant temp. After my last track event it now reads 65 PSI of oil pressure. My coolant temp is still the normal 185°.

I realize it's meant to be off topic entertainment, which is about laughing at Jsup. Sure make a thread to get people to point and laugh at someone. It's childish and not Ricks first or last thread like this. Maybe I'm getting to old for the internet?

Your both OCD, take some meds and move on.

I tried one from the air compressor like mentioned above for testing purposes. It's easy to install and I found it did catch some oil. Enough oil that I thought it was a worthy addition. However the small compressor filter did not flow enough and my dip stick would pop up causing oil to leak out. So I had to remove it after testing.

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/Aardwolfki/catchcan1.jpg[/IMG]

I still haven't made a new one.

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Could you please make a post about the rebuild? I should do that as well.

Nice mirror sticker! You run in TTA too right? What made you go to A instead of staying lower in TTB? I've computed all my points and it looks like I'm good for TTB.

Put a metal plug in the manifold.

Sounds good! I'd love to hear more. I'm addicted to taking weight out of the car. Those are out of my budget for now but long term I would like them. If this new SR combo holds together awhile I'll have some spare cash.

Is it possible to set them hard enough you wouldn't need a sway bar?

Making a mount is pretty easy. I used some left over plastic decking material. Then a swivel mount that I had from something else.

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/Aardwolfki/Cameramount.jpg[/IMG]

I'm using a digital camera that takes video as well. It doesn't do HD which would be nice but it works fine. A 2 gig card will hold 30 mins.

I got this one a few years ago Fujifilm Finepix F470.

http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Finepi ... cs&qid=1244032861&sr=1-21

WTG! Sounds like fun too. I'd like to give that a try after I finish installing all these parts! Thank you for the links about what to buy!

Also just in case you didn't catch it, 85-91 start in D not C, with 14 points tacked on, so getting put into C is pretty quick with mods. 92-96 is TTC with 7 initial points.

I'd like to run TTC next season, I have to get a check ride yet.

Any pix under the hood? What is the all the air for in the hatch?

Wow that is really well built!

There's always http://www.skullskins.net/

Bummer! If you have a fast connection you can download them. There's a link in the lower right. They are 164 meg and 350 meg. It was pretty slippery!

The tracks just opened up so I started out with a NASA event this spring. It really rained as there was a warm and cold front stalled above the state all weekend. I got drenched my first session out on Saturday morning. There were periods of cold weather with rain followed by warmer weather with fog plus rain. There was even some intense lightning hits that brought the corner workers in. It wasn't a good weekend to visit but I enjoyed driving and learned a lot. I did get tired of deep puddles by Sunday but then it cleared up in the afternoon for a short time.

HPDE3 rain session from Saturday (4-25-09)
http://vimeo.com/4357831
Download may be of better quality.

I still haven't made my father sick so he continues to ride along. The four wheel slide in the kink at 9:50 didn't even phase him. I've got to get an "Iceman" sticker for his helmet! When I'm trying to get a good lap time he stays in the paddock though.

Another video, this one is from Sunday afternoon. It stopped raining just for a short time, we ran the track hard and dried it out for the TT boys. To bad it poured shortly after that for the race group. Many had switched out their wet tires.

http://vimeo.com/4363678
HPDE3 3:15 PM Sunday NASA 4-26-09
Download may be of better quality.

Noteworthy, 10:55 an instructor starting the brakes on fire. The smoke might not be to visible in the video.

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I've got an '88 rear that I changed out. Any idea the shipping cost?

I still use street tires and the bearings hold up well. For time trials you take points for stickier tires plus having more maintenance has held me back from going to race compounds.

I was thinking of using this one:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdet ... p?part=PIO-872001&FROM=MG

It's a little smaller then stock, with less weight.

I found the most in the rear quarters.

vimeo.com has been very good.

Carry some baby ass wipes in your man purse.

Congrads! Two thumbs up!

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/Aardwolfki/Keira.jpg[/IMG]

I use Redline grease, now PM me your avatar!

Yes these are in shear as well. Snap goes the grade 8 while the 5 bends for months.

BTW you can remove the shims on top of the rear spring to get some drop.

Damn! And there's even a raccoon living in your coat.

What grade would be best there?

I've found in other machines that grade 8 is brittle like Bill mentioned. It won't bend much before it snaps. I started replacing grade 8s with grade 5s and got longer service life as the bolt would bend quite a bit before snapping. This is not on a car though.

When I did the lowering I really didn't have the car any higher then when I would change the oil. Mine stock height was just under 28" at the front fender. It wasn't really a tough project. I got to replace those torn grease boots so less grease flung on the wheels! I also belt sanded the stock wedge down.

You can get a finger up on top of the spring to see if it's hitting the inboard frame bump.

The Road America April event? I'm signed up, can you hold down the other side of the car for me?

Trackpedia lists tracks by location for road racing, maybe there's one close to you. http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Main_Page

Some video from the National Corvette Museum track event:

http://vimeo.com/2377766

I do some drag racing also. There should be a drag track close to you. It's fun but my favorite is running on a road racing track.

Try them out you'll have lots of fun!

I'm trying two shims at 3/16" each. I'll report back on if there's an issue. I've got one bolt turning that I'm contemplating grabbing with a vice grips. Is there any arc to the spring at all in the middle once it's clamped down?

I snapped a few pictures while working on lowering the front. There is a bump on the outboard side that is just over 3/16", in the picture a single shim is in there. The shims are 3/16" thick.

Next there is a bump inboard about a 1/4", that will rub your spring if you don't have enough wedge. You can seen the difference in this picture:

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/Aardwolfki/Shim4.jpg[/IMG]

This is the lowering wedge shim in place:

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/Aardwolfki/Shim1.jpg[/IMG]

It is 1/2" thick and shouldn't be used in my opinion because it can squash like what happened to CentralCoaster. If you have these wedges installed, please check your spring retainer bolts for tightness! I'd also check for spring rubbing. Note the squashed wedge and the rubbed/damaged spring:



What I'm going to do is run two metal spacers in there so that I will never get into having to little wedge. What I did was belt sand most of the rubber wedge away since the metal shims will be making up the majority of the height needed to clear those metal bumps in the spring channel. I also belt sanded most of the rubber off the spring ends for more drop.

So to get the max amount of lowering you need to just clear that inboard bump with wedge that won't squash.

LOL

Shift kit, best $30 I ever spent!

Lets go back to the crusades, it'll be good for the economy!

It's really pretty easy. I still use a pipe wrench on the plug. Use a hand pump to pump out the old fluid, swap the hoses around, then pump the new fluid in. I use the fluid that has additive and do not add extra.

I was thinking of something more along these lines:

[IMG]http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/Aardwolfki/spindleduct.jpg[/IMG]

Jeffvette was talking about making some, any news?

Bunch of rust on mine too. There was also an 1/8" of corrosion under the front spring ends.

Any other suggestions.

Well you've got so much stuff in there that I wouldn't really be able to see the new paint. Another shelf or two will totally cover all the way space, giving you better storage, and making you not have to paint. Just my two cents.

BTW did you get my PM?

This one?

SEC. 403. INSPECTIONS.

In order to ascertain compliance with this Act, the amendments made by this Act, and the regulations and orders issued under this Act, the Attorney General may, during regular business hours, enter any place in which firearms or firearm products are manufactured, stored, or held, for distribution in commerce, and inspect those areas where the products are so manufactured, stored, or held.


I read that as inspecting a store that sells guns, not YOUR HOUSE. You do have regular business hours at your home, don't you?

Have you tested it at all at drag racing, locked veruses unlocked?

I haven't seen $20 rotors for years! Autozone.com has only one listed for the rear at $68.99. How does a thinner rotor increase stopping distance???

For online shopping try racepages.com they have free shipping.

I'm tall and didn't like how they affected my view. So I removed them and sold them for $50. Which I used to fund mods

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This won't change your braking distance as your tires traction to stop the car doesn't increase.

Are there other uses for this mod? I've been following the thread and wondered.

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Hey quit posting misinformation! If you didn't care you wouldn't have posted it in the first place. It IS amusing though.