CentralCoaster wrote:
I have my amp wired this way without issues. Is that ring terminal long enough that the bolt and battery cable seat flat? I think mine may be on the outside of the terminal. I think this is why I also changed the bolt to a hex.

There are lots of cars out there with side terminals. I'm sure the particular cable and length is corvette specific though with the unique battery position. The starter terminal would also be different than aftermarket stuff.

woody3882 wrote:
On my c-4 I have the common turn knob dis-connect switch on the battery negative side which I use when the car is parked in the garage as a safety/fire issue. I was just advised that every time I disconnect the battery the ECM will have to re-learn the system the next time it is driven. Does anyone know how long does it actually take for the ECM to re-program itself when being driven.
I also was advised to place a fused jumper from one side if the dis-connect switch to the other. I was told that this will allow all memory to store but will not allow the car to start. Does this info sound correct
Thanks again
Woody

jacobsimmons wrote:
ok, would a fuse maybe out?

jacobsimmons wrote:
i was thinking of putting some injector cleaner that is added to the gas, is this ok for my '93 c4 LT1, and if so ,witch brand is best?
thanx for any help,

donhall wrote:
Quote:

joeld wrote:
Is your hood lifting up enough to clear the latch pin when released? If not then it's possible the latch pin needs adjusting for/aft or cross car.
The primary purpose of the springs is to pop the hood up high enough for the "pecker pin" to clear the "fish mouth". After that the hood struts do the work.
On my 89 I had the primary rod on the drivers side, plus the short helper rod on the passenger side and it would jump up so fast that I removed the short one.
Might want to try a short one in conjuction with primary, I assume yours will have the mounting plates?

Joel

Joel, the springs are performing OK. They are just very old, and the replacement of the springs should be quite simple. Unfortunately, I have not read a thread confirming the simplicity of replacement. It appears there is a locking nut at the base of the assembly, and the
shaft has a slot for assembly adjustment, but the components are 'frozen', making removal seemingly impossible without breaking something.

On the '92, there is only one support/lift strut, and you have to initiate the lift, and then the strut provides lift help.

I can live with the existing situation..... 'tired' springs on the vette, and replacement springs in the shipping box.

bren68 wrote:
is the #1 plug on front of engine drivers side for the 1985

bren68 wrote:
it will crank but wont catch and start

bogus wrote:
Before you go crazy... a few thoughts:

17" rims are going to start getting hard to buy tires for. See how hard it is to get a good 16" tire? Well... we are next.

Before spending money on the spacers, consider getting 18" rims that fit right. This will open you up to many tire options for many years and will allow for more brake upgrade options.

bogus wrote:
the problem with fixing these tops is what caused them to break in the first place - TENSION!

They are pressed on under an element of tension... so when they crack, it's much like an earthquake.

In short, replace or rebuild.

donhall wrote:
Gage inoperable, but no code. Digital gage works fine.
Replacement instructions suggest a 'sealant' on the sensor threads.
Is teflon tape an acceptable sealant?

Woodstock wrote:
The clamp holds some sort of foamed rubber which is acting as a filter. No connections on that side of the solenoid!

BrianCunningham wrote:
You don't disconnect the battery on a car you're going to store for a while.

fireflyer141 wrote:
Well the problem was in the master cylinder! After trying everything I took the master cylinder off and disassembled it. Both springs were broken in several places there-by not returning to neutral position. Bought one (re-manufactured) at local discount parts house and it was defective. Got another (new)and works good except the brake light on the info center stays on. There is 1 light out on the 3rd brake light so will check that out soon.
Thanks again, Bob

flyboy wrote:
Quote:

josephf31 wrote:
Dam that's a lot of $ I think I paid like $25 for mine from Rock Auto. Worth waiting a couple days to save $50 no? :-)

Yeah maybe, if they were $25. How many years ago did you buy yours? Rock Auto lists four. $55, $68, $124 and $184. That's without shipping.

Andrew wrote:
How do I test the IAC, TPS, or fuel pump?

I pulled the IAC and it was very dirty. The plunger moved, but was tight.

If I push the gas, just off idle and try to start, it starts right up. This leads me to believe TPS?

Matatk wrote:
Bob - you would have to pull the fuel pump to remove the dampener. It is not essential. It is to reduce sound/vibration. It doesn't affect the running of the car.

flyboy wrote:
I had reinstalled the fuel rails and so pressurized the system to check for leaks before further assembly. All seemed well until a drop of fuel appeared at the fuel pressure regulator vacuum tube.
This can't be, I thought as it is only 2 years old.
I put the mini-vac on the vacuum tube and proceeded to pull fuel out of the regulator housing. The thing failed at the through clamp in the center.
$76 total at Advance Auto. I know tpis has them for less but that's a mail order. This piece is definitely a weak link on the car.

Andrew wrote:
FP is good; regulator seems good (I didn't see any gas in the vacuum line). Once the car is cold, it fires within 1/2 a second. When hot, near impossible to start. Let it sit about 15 minutes, hard to start, but I have to pump the gas pedal. When it starts, I can smell raw fuel…

ICM??

Once I get it started, it runs great.

The FSM (92) does have a blip on forcing the connectors together and possible resulting damage (check "CCM" in your 93 FSM, should be in 8C-whatever page). Of course it doesn't say jack about what to do if you cross the connectors.

Tom76043 wrote:
I have a 95 LT1 which now will start but dies within about 15 to 20 seconds after start.
CCM code shows DTC 41
ECM code shows ERR

This all took place after replacing the heater core myself, on the initial start after the heater core replacement. I am not sure what the DTC 41 code on the CCM is, and it appears that the ECM is not responding to the CCM request for error codes. Module 9 and module A are also giving the ERR on the code scans.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Tom

95Vert wrote:
From that description, it sounds like the HVAC programmer sits between the control head and the BCM.

So, where does the manual say the programmer is located. The circuit diagram provided earlier cuts off the bottom part where the HVAC programmer is shown.

vetteoz wrote:
Quote:

Ajetsprt wrote:
Does any one have any idea where I can get this piece

Turn signal cancel cam
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvet ... elling-cam-1990-1996.html

#7 in diagram

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u3 ... eoz/electrical/Column.jpg

mdsheley wrote:
New guy here!

Had the C4 for a month now and its run perfectly for about 800 miles. (I know a lot for a month :-))

VATS seems flakey but working...

Prior: replace instrument panel lights and they all work.

The Event: Going down a hilly up and down road about 1.5 miles from the house the C4 started bucking and backfiring. I got it to the house with difficulty, especially going up the hills in second gear (automatic) with throttle about 3/4 depressed.

Now: It starts for about a second, then quits and stinks to high heaven till it dissipates.

Help me please,

Mike

Matatk wrote:
What was this project for, Joe? Lots of work...huh???

woody1987 wrote:
electric control. just havent had a chance to dig into it. i did spend some time today looking for the vacume line that runs through the fire wall and couldnt find anything that was sucking air. i'll search the forum for the wiring and vacume diagram. thanks for everyone's help as usual.
JIM

C4Williams wrote:
I have a C4.
i am buying alot and really trying to do an at home restore, most parts are reasonable but the weather stripping is PRICE HAPPY> is there any way to get around it without using old pieces which i would never choose to use.

Any help is always appreciated and i will try to return the favor.

Ajetsprt wrote:
Hi,
I have two questions I am hoping someone can help with.

First does anyone know of any online instructions for removal and installation of the steering wheel on a 1992 C4?

Second question is does anyone know of a good steering wheel restoration service? Really what I would like is someone who could could make the steering wheel slightly thicker and custom wrap and stitch. If that's not available restoring to original but I'd prefer to match it to the new seat stitching.

Thanks
Jim