http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi ... be/erm/product_detail.jsp

Found some on line. Pretty expensive. (not!)
Going to check locally.

Yes, the u-shaped part with the teeth. The 3m w/s glue I have on hand works like contact cement. Put it on each 1/2 and when tacky push both parts together. I just assumed it wouldn't be best for the u-shaped stuff that has to be slid on. I'll look for something that sets up over time and tape it in place.

3m weather strip adhesive is like a contact cement isn't it? Good for holding the rubber to the body portion but I want something to help hold the u'shaped welting part on that's not tight enough.Quote:

I wonder where I can get that sticky goo or what it's called? It's sticky but doesn't go hard.

Ya it seems every job I've tackled lately starts with "Remove the console lid". lol

My car came with a new rear hatch w/s and I finally got around to installing it. The name of the supplier on the bag is The Last Detail - Corvette Parts and Accesories. Pt. #692712 . I printed off some Willcox instructions. The top section (E to F) is supposed to be 66" but this one seemed to be an inch longer (hard to measure accurately). So I start putting this thing on thinking I'm going to hafta stretch it in the corners like Willcox says but it's too long. The bottom section is not too bad, I can work in the extra but the top section has too much, it wants to pop off. Has this happened to anyone? It looks like I'm going to have to cut it, probably in the center at the top to get it to fit. The welting also doesn't hold very well. I read some peolple have to use a rubber mallet to drive it on. This one went on really easy.

Done. And it worked great. Here's another post I found and this guy has listed the steps:



Start by removing the lid to the arm rest center console (4 bolts). Do not remove the wires. Just tuck the arm rest lid behind the seat out of the way. Next, empty the center consol contents and lift up the carpet liner inside to expose the two screws at the rear of the shifter plate. Also remove the cup holder inserts.

Remove the two rear shifter plate screws and the one screw under the cup holder. Pull the gear shifter to rear and slide the shifter consol plate back exposing the screws attaching the bottom of the climate control panel/radio trim plate. You should not have to remove the gear shift knob. There is room to move the shift consol back enough to see the screws.

Remove the screws from the bottom of the climate control trim plate. Next, remove the central A/C vent (2 screws) above the climate control. When that's done, you'll see a third screw that's holding the top of the radio/CC trim piece in that needs to be removed.

After that trim piece is off, you'll notice the two bolts holding the CC unit in place, remove them. The unit will now slide straight out, and you can unplug it from the wiring harness in the rear by squeezing the top of the plug to release the plug clip and work the plug out.

Take the CC unit inside to a clean well lit place to work on it. There will be 6 “small” 3/16” bolts that need to come out. One tip I can give you is this - when you've get all 6 removed (two on the back surface, and 4around the perimeter), point the face of the CC unit towards the ground while separating the two halves - you don't want the individual buttons to fall all over the place. With that complete, you will be able to remove the internals. There will be 2 circuit boards joined like a "T". They simply unplug by pulling the two of them apart. Disconnect the small wiring harness and set the larger of the two circuit boards aside.

Holding the control button unit CAREFULLY remove the 4 light bulbs (will look like grey plastic plugs from the back) with a skinny flathead screwdriver - they should take about a 1/4 turn counterclockwise to "unlock." There are two small 3/16” screws in the center of the circuit board holding it to the button holder case, remove them. Lift off the green circuit board and gray rubber contact pad from the buttons. Lay the button holder off to the side. Do not turn it over or the buttons will fall out.

Proceed with cleaning the button contacts on the green board and the gray rubber. All I did was “lightly” go over the contact circuit points (you'll be able to tell what I'm talking about when you have it apart) with a “soft” clean pencil eraser, and then give it a good wipe with some Isopropyl Alcohol pads. After it's dry re-assemble and head back to the car, plug it in to the wiring harness for a test - it should work as new!

Re-assemble all other trim pieces, etc. in the order they were removed. Shouldn't take more than an hour...maybe a tick more depending on how careful you are. It really “IS” an easy job.

The other day all of a sudden some of my climate control buttons wouldn't work. Then they were fine for a while and today some aren't working again. Any ideas?
(94 LT1)

Ya I pryed the shift pattern dealie out and tryed pulling on the wedge with pliers. I'll go back and try vice grips. Nice to know that if I destroy the wedge it's no big deal.

I bought a new shifter boot and I'm just wondering how I remove the knob on my 6sp.

My switch has probably quit from lack of use, long periods sitting.

Well the gray tool 1/2" drive 17mm hex socket was $20 and a regular l-shaped 17mm allen wrench was $7. It worked fine. One more job done.

Well I got some Castrol TWS from a BMW dealer for my tranny. $19cdn/bottle! Now I need a 17mm Hex socket. Can these be purchased individually somewhere or do I need to buy a whole set? Does it matter if it's 1/2" or 3/8" drive?

Well it's the switch. Not fun to get at. I had to bend a piece of coat hanger in a short L to lift the tab on the wire connector which, of course was on the top, and I pryed the connectoer off with a long screwdriver. I bent a short piece of wire in a tight u-shape and taped it up to stiffen it and shoved it in the connector while holding it with needlenose. It worked. The reverse lights came on. I'll have to order a switch ($85). I guess I'll have my inspection done anyway and pay the extra to bring it back for the recall check after the lights work. Maybe if the guys at the garage are nice they'll give me a pass so I can get it registered.
Hey anyone ever try to fix one of these switches?

Another tip for removing the switch. The ONLY tool that will work is a 7/8" deep offset box end wrench. Don't even try anything else unless you're prepared to remove the slave cylinder.

Checking my 94 over because I have to take it in for a safety check Tuesday before I can get insurance. Noticed the backup lights aren't working. Both bulbs are good. Put new ones in anyways. Fuse is good, put a new one in anyway. I tried popping it in and out of reverse a bunch of times to give the switch a workout to no avail. I jacked the car up and had a look for the switch on the tranny (6sp) and dang I can hardly get my fingers on it let alone unplug it. I had planned on removing the plug and jumping the wires. The car only has 34k on the odo. Is it heard of that the switch can go bad? Could it be something else?

Quote:

What's a windjammer?

Okay. Thanks.

The clutch on my 94 (34000 miles) works fine. No leaks in the hydraulic and the fluid level checked fine. It's just that I've noticed the clutch engages fairly high up in the pedal. Is there an adjustment? or do I just have to get used to it?

Recheck my post with the pic as I added more info.

Remember that's not metal so a self tapper probably wouldn't hold. Also where I've got it on the snubber bolt it lines up with the doors lip perfectly. If you went beside it would sit higher and in a bit.

Okay here's what I've done on mine and it appears it's going to work well. I used a common 1 x 1 l bracket like you find at any hardware store. I set the panel in place and it's really hooking well. It looks like the holes on the bottom of the panel (where the plastic pushins go) line up nicely centred, better than before. I only put one bracket on the left end and lined it up with the rest of the door edge. You have to be careful not to drop the snubber when you remove the bolt. I slipped a piece of wire around it to hold it up. (You'll also notice in the picture that I trimmed my weather strip down in a previous failed attempt to get the panel to sit down more on the lip.)

FOLLOW UP edit: I did some more fitting and adjusting today and the panel is back on. The way the bracket is shown in the picture the panel sat a bit high at that end. I ended up taking about 3/16ths off the top and I also bent it inward slightly. I also put about 4 layers of electrical tape over the top so the metal wouldn't wear on the panel. It seems to be hanging on quite well. I'm very pleased with the end result.

Attach file:

---

  mini-100_0009.jpg (73.93 KB)

That sounds exactly what I need to do. The panel I am puting on is in perfect shape and still grabs poorly at the top. That's similar to a mod that was suggested from an old magazine article. Here's the picture from the magazine article that was quoted on an old thread. May 2003 Corvette fever Magazine. Quality of the picture is poor.

Attach file:

---

  Doorpanelrepair1.jpg (84.21 KB)

Central coaster I've seen pictures of the metal brackets that reinforce the ribs but that's not what i'm talking about. I read a post that talked about a magazine article and it had a very poor quality picture from that article that explained how to put a small l-shaped bracket on the top of the door to help the door panel hook better. I just can't see in the picture what it looks like or exactly where it's mounted except near the left side of the top of the door(ds).

No I'm not talking about the metal reinforcment for the ribs. Apparently some put l-shaped brackets on the top of the door so the panel can hook better. There was a scan of a magazine article in one of the posts I read but the pic quality is poor.

I found an old thread about this but the pictures are gone. Anyone have a good picture/explanation for this mod?

When I bought my 94 the PO said the window tinter screwed up the panel. I pulled it off today and it's got epoxy repair in several places including the ribs. Looks like he forgot one screw and gave the door a yank. Anyway I was fortunate to buy a pristine replacement off Ebay. I think I'll reinforce the ribs before I install it. Two mods I've seen involve metal plates or Epoxy build up around them. I just tried fitting the new panel but it doesn't hook worth a damn on the left side (ds), even when I push down. It's like the foam weather strip keeps it from hooking fully.
How does this l-bracket mod work?

Instead of having someone step on the brakes when you jack the rear you could put a block on the ramp behind the front tires? They could have two pins of some sort that slip into two holes in the ramp.

Probably metric? Can you take the other one out to take it somewhere to compare?

So how you gonna get it back on?
Why are you taking it off?

Hey, I just thought. What about wheel nuts? Will my originals work with the ZR1's or do I need new ones?

Okay I found an ebay vendor selling chrome zr1 wheels - 2 8.5 and 2 9.5 with tires mounted and balanced(same as stock size) for $1266. Are Nitto NT555 tires any good?

Thanks for the ideas guys. I don't want to sacrifice handling for good looks. My car's just a cruiser on the street. There's a vendor on Ebay called OE Wheels that has great prices but they don't have 8.5's so I'll likely go 9.5's all around. Next decision will be tires. Any recommendations? I'm told Sumitomo makes a good tire for a good price.

I'd like to get some chrome ZR 1 wheels for my 94.

Stock rims are 9.5" wide rear and 8.5" wide front but the ZR 1 wheels I see for sale seem to just come in 9.5" wide. Can I put 9.5" on the front? If it's okay does that extra inch end up on the inside or the outside? Will I need wider tires?

The convertible remote has one wide button with a picture of a door on it.

Just wondering if a convertible PKE remote will work on my 94 coupe? I assume it's the same except no button for the hatch?

Doesn't AC Delco make an AC Delco Gold? I wonder if it's better?

[quote]
Z51L9889 wrote:
I made a bleed fixture for the slave cylinder out of a flat piece of steel and a couple of bolts. The plate has two holes drilled in it at the same spacing as the slave cylinder flange and a partially drilled hole in between to locate the pushrod. This cost me about $1.00 and 10 minutes of time.
[quote/]

Got a picture of that?

Someone suggested I do a TB bypass on my 94, similar to the 95 and 96. I understand this cleans up the look a bit. Is there any other advantage to doing this mod other than appearance?

The Ebay one is for 85-89.

Quote:

I think there's a number missing.

Thanks guys. I'll invest in some Gorilla glue.

The padding on my console lid (94) has started lifting on both long sides. has anyone had any luck gluing these back down?

Oops sorry, meant to say gold plated. Fixed it.
Part no. is COR-A4986

Got a link for the mid almerica one? Does the open lid make much difference? Is there a sound change like you notice when you switch to an open air cleaner assembly on a carb?

http://www.ultimateperformance.ca/ind ... KeJw7PGsJ4CFQ4MDQodKVqbmw

Rather than butcher my original lid I thought i'd see if there was an aftermarket lid. This is a nice chrome one with vents but at this price you'd think it was gold plated.

Ya I think you're right I probably have nothing to worry about. Hopefully I won't be all paranoid about the thing going sour on me. At some point I might replace it just for the peace of mind. When the time comes to replace it I'll probably buy an original style and vent it myself as per the article Matatk referenced above or I may go aftermarket depending on cost.

That's a good article about the Opti. I'm not real worried about whatever I have at this point but eventual wear or a leaky water pump will lead to my needing to address my Opti options. At some point I'll likely replace it and modify the cap so it's vacuum vented like the 95/96 style. My recently acquired 94 only has 34,000 easy fair weather miles on the odo. I'll look in the spring to see if there's a vacuum line running to it or not. I suspect not.

I was reading a post on another forum about the differences between 94's, 95's and 96's. Someone mentioned, of course, that the 95/96 models had the revised Optispark. Someone else chimed in that the later built 94's also got the revised Opti. Can anyone confirm this? Does anyone know when the actual switch took place? Got me wondering if my Jun/94 built 94 has revised or not. I could just look for the tell tale vacuum line but the car is out of reach to me until spring.

A lot of debate over this subject but one thing I know is that as gas ages it loses octane. I don't know how much over what time period though. People in the know have even told me that be sure and buy your premium from a station with higher traffic so the premium hasn't been in the station's tank for too long. Another thing is that gasohol (gas/alcohol blend) deteriorates the fastest. Most premium gas is not a blend. For these reasons I put premium in every gas engine I own if the fuel is going to be in the tank for an extended period of time. Also gasahol is not good in older vehicles because it tends to loosen up crud in your tank and lines which plugs your fuel filter.

Quote:

Ya, mostly highway. You have to go through some city to get to the airport but the highway is long and mostly straight.

Quote:

Or both. I'm not saying it's just the oil btu I just thought it was pretty amazing how far long they go on original drive trains.

Interesting tidbit. My small city is 2hrs from an international airport. We have a local company that shuttles passengers to and from the airport four times a day. They've been around for 15 yrs. I sat up front with the driver last month. The Ford 3/4 ton passenger van we were in had over 600,000km (about 400,000 miles) on the odo with the original motor(gas) and tranny. He says they can usually get almost one million kms. (660,000 miles) on their vans before retiring them. He said the company is very good at maintaining the vans. He said they always use semi-synthetic engine oil. I forgot to ask what brand.