Got her fixed. It was the connection at the lighter socket. Should-a checked that first......Thanks for your input.

Lighter doesn't work so I went to the fuse panel. To my surprise I don't have a fuse that is labeled "lighter". Manual doesn't specify either. Any ideas? Looks like I'm going to check all the fuses and see which one is bad.

Yup. I live in California so I know the pain. First time I brought my 1955 Willys CJ3B in from Arizona in 1989 they told me it had to be smogged. It has a 1962 Chevy 283 in it that is completely stock with a 2 barrel carb. It passed and haven't had to smog it since.

Thanks. You saved me from an unnecessary road trip and with the price of gas........much appreciated.

Will a early 90's Cat set up work on a 1984? Thanks!

Finally! Back on the road. Ended up buying a Pulley from Dino's Corvette salvage on E-Bay. Great guy's to deal with. I was surprised when my Chevy dealers here in San Diego told me the part is obsolete and "good luck finding one". Thanks for all of your inputs through this site. Much appreciated.

Just down the road from you, Lakeside. Zip Corvette.

Nope. Looks like it was actually made in 1984 and they made 51,000. Mine is in the 45,000 so a late model.

Manual Switch. I also have a habit of leaving switches in the on position.

Thanks Mataak. Great info.

Need some help locating a power steering pump pulley for a 1984 Corvette. My local dealer says its an obsolete part. Ecklers and Rock Auto doesn't have it either. Thanks for your help.

Is it true that Fords are pushed back home so often they started making them out of Aluminum to make it easier?

That's where I'm headed buuuttt seems odd you have to replace a pump AND a pulley (they're sold separately). Have a look at what I found below. This may be the answer.


http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/t ... gebase/images/84co3_2.jpg

Thanks for your input guy's-much appreciated.

Thanks Dave. .796 is 20.2 mm's. Now I have to find out why my pulley size is bigger than the pump shaft size. I suspect the previous owner replaced the pump or pulley with something other than OEM. Is there a difference or different pump from 1984-1996?

.796. I'm wondering if the old pump I have just replaced was from a different year C-4, say a 1996 or so. Anyone know?

I've run into a problem that is at the moment keeping me from driving my Vette. Power steering went out and the old pulley is to "loose" for the new power steering pump shaft. It just slides on instead of being a press fit. Any ideas? I took the pump back and made them give me a new one but have the same results. Thanks in advance.

Many Thanks, I'll check it out.

Just passed smog but barely. Cat is tired. Sooo, where is the best place to buy one. I understand since I live in Calif that a certified shop has to install, but that I can buy. True-not true? Thanks guy's.

Finally received the visors. It took 4 months.....to get once ordered.

Good luck! Sounds like you're doing it right. Won't take too long and doesn't cost very much....

Maybe that is my fix, take the pump with me to the GM dealer and see if a new pulley would fit.

Yea, original pulley, sloppy fit.

I recently had to replace the power steering pump in my 84. I have purchased 3 different pumps and have the same problem. The pulley slips right over the pump shaft. Supposed to be a press fit. The pulley is the right one as it has the correct GM part number. Any suggestions?

Thanks again Matatk! Great information. Love the pics. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks. I appreciate your help!

[split from non-related thread]

Thanks-me too. Now I can turn my attention back to the Vette. Last time I drove it I heard (and felt) a u-joint clunk near the rear Diff. Any pointers on these? I have a time set aside to take it up on a lift for access. I just need to know what I can expect to see when I get her up. I've done lots of U-joints (a product of driving clunkers in the 60's & 70's) and I do have access to a press. Thanks in advance.

After all this work my reward is a smooth running engine and I went from 13 mpg to 14.4 mpg.

Getting ready to change out drive shaft u-joint(s). Any recommendations? Thanks.

Its not the spider assembly o-ring. Turns out the Throttle Body is sucking air in thru the throttle return spring seal is defective. Go figure.

Checked out the booster (its fine) and narrowed it down to a vacuum leak in one of two places. The Throttle Body upper gasket or the o-ring where the spider assembly fits up into the upper intake.

If its the upper TB gasket then its a two minute fix, if its the spider assembly o-ring gasket then its another tear down.

Thanks for your help!

Oh my gaggin heart. Just replaced the fuel pressure reg and the trucks runs GREAT except at idle or especially when I brake. It stalls when I brake. I removed the vacuum hose that goes from the intake to the Booster and lubed up the o-rings. Didn't help. Any ideas?

Update. All to no avail. Still getting misfire codes AND losing fuel pressure after engine is shutdown. Just bought a new fuel press reg and am installing that this weekend. Put in a new fuel pump last year......

2,500 is about right. It is a blast to drive. Way too much engine for the original drive train (she's tachin high at around 64 mph). The other side of that is when I need to punch it there's noooo problem getting the tires going. Just saw the pics of your Jeep. Awesome Jeep.

Interest? You bet there is. I have a 1955 CJ3B that has a 1962 Chevy 283 in it. Would love to see pics when you get a chance!

Thanks Bogus. Appreciate your time.

It's an instant drop once the key is turned off.

After successfully replacing the fuel injector assembly on my truck (see other post) I now have a problem that could be related. My fuel pressure drops to zero after I shut down the motor. With the truck running I have approx 54 psi fuel pressure but once I shut it off it drops to zero. I just replaced the fuel pump last year (dropped the tank etc) so I'm hesitant to put the blame on a bad check valve in the fuel pump. Also after I shut it off and get out of the truck I can hear the fuel pump run for about 2-3 seconds.

So assuming its NOT the fuel pump that leaves an open injector? Thoughts?

Fuel pressure is a bit too high but I'm thinking along the lines of either a bad Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensor. It will show a spark but a weak one.

Yes, I removed the intake to replace the Fuel "Spider" assembly. Didn't realize until after it was off that I didn't have to remove the lower intake, just the upper intake. I'll try the Right Stuff. Can't wait for this nightmare to be over.Thanks for your inputs!

Thanks Bogus. Word for the day: d-i-s-a-s-s-e-m-b-l-e.

UNbelieveable. I still have an oil leak. My mechanic first told me it was coming from the distributor so I turned it over to them to fix. No luck. NOW they say it is a combination of the oil pan leaking and the rear main seal. I put in some dye and it looks to me to be coming from the back of the lower intake. Anybody ever experience a leak here?

Had to replace the fuel pump in my truck last year. 97 Sierra 350. Wasn't that bad really. I bought a Delphi FP also and so far no problems. The touchiest part of the whole operation is the fuel filter sock that goes on the suction side (and in the tank)of the FP. Didn't match OEM sock.

Also, floor jack was great in helping to lower the tank.

Thanks to all who have helped. You guys are the best.

There is another twist however! I drove my truck to work (30 miles) and when I got out I was standing in a cloud of smoke. I have an oil leak and it took me a while to find it. It is on the connection to the intake for the oil pressure sending unit. Not the unit itself but the standpipe. Unbelievable. Now I'm waiting for the dealership to open to get that piece.

Nothing is permanent.......

Saga is over and truck is running GREAT. Problem turned out to be fuel injectors. Had I put some thought into it before tearing it all the way down to the lower intake (suspecting a vacuum leak)I would have saved myself a ton of work.

A few things I learned from this evolution. I only had to remove one valve cover, after you re-install the distributor even though it was marked and matched as it was put in the timing still has to be set with a machine (rpm's over 1000 in order the set the retard), you Have to unbolt and push the power steering and air pump forward and finally don't forget to re-install the bracket (which is located on top of the lower intake) and holds the spider injector module up into the upper intake.

No, I have always put the car in "D" when driving around town and "D with a circle around it" when freeway driving. Sooo I shift up into overdrive when getting onto the freeway. The car seems to bog down if I put it into overdrive when driving in the city.

Vette has an automatic 3 speed with overdrive. What is the (approx) rpm's I should be shifting in to Overdrive?

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try it as soon as I get off of these Graveyard shifts.

Well sir, I was wrong. There is individual injectors I had to remove the upper intake to see them. So this is what they mean by a "Spider".

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Thanks Joel but I have a throttle body and not individual injectors. I thought I was going to get away with not having to remove the a/c compressor and bracket but have since discovered that the a/c bracket and power steering bracket have to be removed to get to that one last bolt.

Have the lower intake almost off (work is getting in the way. What a hassle. Hope it's a vacuum leak like suspected.