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Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  Sheet Molded Compound
Also known as SMC.

This is the stuff that all C4 Corvettes are made of.

It’s similar to fiberglass, but much more durable.

The only issu...
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Sydney Sprint
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I saw this and immediately thought of our Aussie members.

http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/offb ... ustralia.stiletto.race.ap

It looks like most of the women had a nitrous system on board. I could tell because of all the giggling going on ...

Posted on: 2008/9/3 2:59
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Re: Do you use some gasket sealer on coolant hoses?
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Aardwolf wrote:
I do not and would not recomend it.


I emphatically agree!

Posted on: 2008/9/3 2:02
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Re: I feel sore but accomplished
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bogus wrote:
Once you are done, hit all the electrical connections with some lithium white grease. This will water proof them and protect them from corrosion.


Some brands of white lithium grease conduct electricity -- and can cause a real problem if you use them for electrical connections. You'd be better served by purchasing a dielectric grease specifically meant for this purpose, and it's not very expensive, considering ...

Posted on: 2008/8/31 18:48
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Re: 427 Final Spec
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Found some great pictures of the Dart block here:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9936765

No comments here except that I'm still having trouble philosophically coming to grips with a 427 being a small block ... and I'm envious.

Posted on: 2008/8/18 20:57
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Re: Code 33 diagnosis
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Posted on: 2008/8/17 1:00
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Re: FREE C4 Parts Manual
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Merci!!!

Posted on: 2008/8/16 12:09
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Re: Need Advice
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Quote:

95vette wrote:
A leakdown test on the injectors ...


I second that and would add that one or more might be partially clogged. You might be able to determine that with a scan tool, looking at the LT and ST corrections.

Posted on: 2008/8/16 2:06
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Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con?
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Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
Bias spring is here:

http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/brake_components.htm#DRM BrakeBias Spring



What kind of job is it changing springs?

Posted on: 2008/8/13 2:10
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Re: "96 outer door/window seal
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CentralCoaster wrote:
Great way to F up your door panel in that article...

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Well, it does say use extreme caution ...

I've been saving this web page and have already purchased the seals, but haven't gotten around to installing them yet. I really like your recommendation to use a piece of rubber hose over the bit. I have used a rubber band to act as a guide, but your way sounds like a much, much better technique -- it's more than a guide, it's a non-marring and slim safety stop. Thanks!

Posted on: 2008/8/12 19:51
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Re: "96 outer door/window seal
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 12:47
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Re: LIfter quiestion
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With the factory service manual in hand, on a scale of 1 -- something "easy" like changing the spark plugs, to 10 - something very difficult and requiring lots of special tools like rebuilding the automatic transmission, I'd rate the job a 3. Without the factory service manual, fuggedaboudit.

If it's only the lifter, than that's the only thing you have to purchase -- oh yeah, you probably need a special tool to get the old lifter out ... and a new valve cover gasket. The lifter itself costs about $10 from places like Rock Auto. the lifter removal tool costs about $15 from Summit.

Posted on: 2008/8/7 21:44
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Re: 427 update
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I repeat ...

A .. W ... E .... S ..... O ...... M ........ E !!!!!!!!

Posted on: 2008/8/7 11:19
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Re: $90 new OEM Opti on eBay?
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I just want to know where they were two months ago when I needed one!

Posted on: 2008/8/7 1:40
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Re: So I just got back from Auto Zone...
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Flowmaster literature says "If you really want to hear your exhaust system inside as well as outside of your vehicle, these Super 44 Flowmaster mufflers are for you." If those were too loud, you're really going to hate the bullet mufflers.
Loudmouth bullet mufflers literature advertises "Due to the limited sound control that these mufflers offer, they are recommended for race use only!"

Posted on: 2008/8/6 21:07
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Re: Anyone change the sparkplugs in a 96 Camaro V6 ??
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Pull the engine and replace with an LT1?

Posted on: 2008/8/6 17:29
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Re: Lifter
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[quote]
FATED wrote:
1986 had a flat tappet cam. You can not put roller lifters unless you put in a roller cam and then the roller lifters. The roller lifters will not be kept in alignment the same way as stock GM roller lifters. The flat tappet cam lobe is not shaped properly for a roller lifter./quote]

Thanks. I stand corrected - and also learned something.

Posted on: 2008/8/4 22:55
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Re: Wheel bearing refresher
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Nice writeup, Kevin. I suggest this be packaged and put into the Tech Library.

Posted on: 2008/8/4 22:50
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Re: LIfter
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Quote:

NC Kid wrote:
Are they upgradeable? Would it provide any benefits to replace all of them or upgrade them over stock? Why do they go bad and make ticking noises with proper oil changes. Can driving it with a bad lifter cause motor damage.

Thanks.



You can move up to roller lifters. Since I don't know your car or what you do with it, I can't say whether they are of any benefit to you. Roller lifters reduce wear on the camshaft lobes and reduce parasitic engine losses. Are they worth the cost? For a high revving engine, they are almost a necessity nowadays. IMHO, at normal driving engine RPMs, they don't do enough to warrant the expense.

If a lifter fails, it doesn't lift the push rod enough and creates some lash. That's the tapping noise you hear. Since the valve isn't opening as as much as it should, you will either not take in enough air/fuel mixture or will not be able to exhaust the burnt charge as well as you should. Since you have created a gap between the push rod and the rocker arm, you can do mechanical damage.

If you have to drive the car, keep RPM as low as possible until you get it fixed.

Posted on: 2008/8/4 20:49
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Re: DEJA VU
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
Gee... if nothing else... you're old.


Old is as old does -- I might even be younger than you.

Posted on: 2008/8/2 16:22
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Re: DEJA VU
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Quote:

BillH wrote:

The week after I graduated, I bought a 67. Kept it.


You really know how to hurt a guy. What drivetrain do you have? mine was the 350 hp 327 with a Muncie 4-speed and the 3.07 rear axle ratio. I wanted a high-speed road car.

I find the rear axle ratio amusing as in '67 that was the "economy" ratio and my '94 has the same ratio and it's the "performance" version.

Posted on: 2008/8/2 16:20
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Re: My idol
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The alien abduction comment pretty much sums it up.

Posted on: 2008/8/2 13:04
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Re: I know you've missed this, so......
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OH NO! Another flashback!

I spent two years in California in the late '60s thanks to the US Navy. Jim Croce was a huge favorite of mine out there. Croce and California -- they just went together ... like Haight and Ashbury.

Posted on: 2008/8/2 12:55
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Re: Fuel Injector Service???
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Quote:

901stvette wrote:
you have to understand NY humor.. .


Isn't that an oxymoron?

Posted on: 2008/8/2 1:35
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Re: DEJA VU
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BTW, I was a poor white boy who grew up in central Wisconsin. However, I earned a full scholarship including stipend for college, so my mother said she would buy me the car of my choice ... took me all of two milliseconds to blurt out CORVETTE !!!

The 'vette cost her a lot less than my tuition/books/room and board would have, so it was a win/win. Now if I had just kept that car ...

Posted on: 2008/8/1 21:10
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Re: Fuel Injector Service???
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OK, OK. You guys are tough. I talked with Jon today.

He said pre '94 multecs are junk but that from '94 on, they're "not so bad". However, I had already talked myself into a set of his Bosch injectors, and he heartily agreed that was the right thing to do, so I ordered a set. They should arrive by mid-week and I'll put them in ASAP or sooner and report back.

BTW, after I mentioned this group and this thread, Jon said the guys at Corvette Guru are "too techhie" for him. Just wanted you to now that.

Posted on: 2008/8/1 21:03
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Re: Another T-Bone Production
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Tommy, you're a sicko ... keep up the good work!

Posted on: 2008/8/1 2:24
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Re: wish me luck rednecks
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Hope you have a speedy recovery.

Posted on: 2008/8/1 2:08
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Re: DEJA VU
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Quote:

jsup wrote:
Stud?


HEY!

We all were back then, weren't we? At least that's how we remember it.

Posted on: 2008/7/31 21:22
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Re: DEJA VU
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Quote:

TommyT-Bone wrote:
Quote:

Qack wrote: I'm sure the people around me thought I was nuts.


Are they wrong?


Well ... can't say for sure.

Posted on: 2008/7/31 21:21
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Re: Still need help, car stumbles!
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Quote:

Woodstock wrote:
Sounds like fuel injectors. Measure the resistance cold and hot, should be about 16-17 ohms.



Have you checked your injectors yet like Woodstock suggested?

Posted on: 2008/7/31 17:26
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Fuel Injectors ???
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Are fuel injectors checked during NCRS inspections? I'm planning on replacing the injectors on my '94 with Bosch.

Posted on: 2008/7/31 16:45
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DEJA VU
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Oh man, what a flashback! I was on my way back from Lowes, and it's perfect convertible weather. So there I was, just cruising along enjoying the ride with a smile on my face. Then the Beatles "Twist and Shout" started playing on the radio. I immediately turned the volume up to just below the threshold of pain ...

I immediately had a flashback. My very first car was a brandy-new red '67 Corvette convertible and there I was, a young stud again, cruising and turning the volume up to Twist and Shout. I actually laughed out loud. I'm sure the people around me thought I was nuts.


Posted on: 2008/7/31 16:24
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Re: Fuel Injector Service???
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This (from http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/sept98/techtotech.htm ) didn't help:

General Motors Multecs: These are more likely to be shorted than not! We throw away approximately 65 percent of all GM Multec cores. Each Multec is tested under a loaded (on) condition with a current load unit and a scope. (This test is repeated approximately four to five times per injector from beginning to finish.) Many bulletins have been offered from "The General" on this subject and why it occurs, but in reality it doesn't matter since they are the only injectors that have had this particular pattern failure; other units run for hundreds of thousands of miles without the problem!

$350 is not in my budget right now, since I've put in well over a grand in new parts over the last four weeks, although a matched set sounds tempting. The Bosch units cost just a little more than getting mine cleaned -- but if even one of mine is bad ...

Posted on: 2008/7/31 12:54
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Re: Fuel Injector Service???
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You guys aren't gonna make this easy, are you? I thought this was going to be easy. Now I'm going to have to learn more about fuel injectors than I ever wanted to know! Since Jon and FIC came up twice, I'll take that as a strong recommendation and give him a call today.

I also noticed that he buys old injectors -- except multecs. MORE food for thought. I think I'm going to get an earful when I talk to him.

Thanks guys,

Qack

Posted on: 2008/7/31 12:39
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Fuel Injector Service???
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Has anyone had their fuel injectors cleaned by an off-vehicle service such as http://www.witchhunter.com/ ? I'm looking for a recommendation for a good service.

With 125K miles on my '94, and the benign and not-so-benign neglect my 'vertte has obviously been subject to, this seems like the right thing to do.

Posted on: 2008/7/31 2:31
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Re: Opinons.....427 logo
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Quote:

Andrew wrote:
I prefer no badges or stickers. In my opinion, leave it stock looking for the most part. Folks who would appreciate what the 427 badge represents will be able to tell that the car is not stock when they hear it run. That car will be a beast!!


My sentiments exactly. I've always enjoyed it immensely when I've driven a "sleeper".

Posted on: 2008/7/30 19:34
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Re: Decision.....4..........2..............7!!!!!
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A..W...E....S.....O......M........E...........!!!!!!!!

Posted on: 2008/7/29 12:58
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Re: My turn... rough idle, but only a little.
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
The reason the L98 and early LT1s have marginally rough idles is the very nature of batch fuel injection.

One the early L98s, it his all 8 at once, I think. But on the later ones and early LT1s, it fires the injectors by the bank. This means that at idle, the fuel has a tendency to sit a little and loose some of its aeration.

xfires have ok to marginal idles, too.


Hey Bogus, what's your working definition of early LT1s? After all my work, the car runs like a champ but has a slight pulse at idle when it's all warmed up. Certainly nothing to worry about, but I just wanted to know if I would be tilting at windmills if I decided to try to eliminate it.

Posted on: 2008/7/28 21:56
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Re: Detailing Tips from Flash Man
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Joe-Flash Man,

Welcome to the site. Got a question for you. A previous owner used touch up paint on my car that is a much darker red than the actual color, and he used the "blob" technique. The paint sits on top of the old finish. I don't know how old the repair is.

Is there a safe way to remove the old paint before doing a quality repair?

Qack

Posted on: 2008/7/28 1:17
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Radiator Cap Source??
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Hi --

Anyone know where I can get an original AC Delco RC-36 radiator cap? Are there any good sources for original parts except for eBay?

TIA

Qack

Posted on: 2008/7/27 13:23
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Re: Would like to introduce myself
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Hi Joe -- Welcome to the best C4 site on the web!

Qack

Posted on: 2008/7/27 10:48
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Re: I don't think I want to go down this road...
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Quote:

Qack wrote:
Quote:

bogus wrote:
also clean up the radiator intake area.

these cars are bottom feeders and will suck up about everything that gets in their path.


Hey Bogus,

Thanks for mentioning this. I was mumbling under my breath when I first read it, but decided since I had everything off, I should do it.

GOOD GRIEF!!! I wonder how the radiator worked at all. I'm about to start cleaning the radiator, which has an inch-thick carpet of fine junk covering the radiator just in front of the low-temperature cooling fan. I also removed enough wheat stalks from the plenum area to feed a cow for a day!


A little real-world feedback. My '94 is back on the road and things are sure better in this arena. Before I cleaned the radiator, the temperature would run 190ish when driving, but would climb to 230 fairly quickly after I stopped at a red light, at which time the fan would come on and hold it at 230.

Now, under almost identical conditions, the car still holds at 190ish while driving, but if I stop at a traffic light, the temperature slowly drifts up, but hasn't exceeded 205 yet.

What an improvement! I heartily recommend cleaning the plenum area!!!

Qack

Posted on: 2008/7/27 1:17
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Re: Still need help, car stumbles!
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What engine do you have?

Added: Aha, it's a '90, so an L98. Can't help on specifics as mine is a 94. Have you checked the injectors for leaks or clogging? How about voltage to the various things electric that are involved? Or a bad ground? It could be an internally-failed muffler -- and have you checked for any potatoes in your tail pipe?

Posted on: 2008/7/25 13:33
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Re: 86 Corvette AC Compressor Oil Help
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the compressor doesn't turn at all when the A/C is off -- just the pulley and rotating part of the clutch. You don't have to worry about that.

Posted on: 2008/7/25 4:50
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Re: What's up with ARP thread sealant?
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I also apologize for getting testy, and for assuming things not in evidence ...


Posted on: 2008/7/25 3:08
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Re: F***ING IDIOT!!!
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Quote:


I got one better:

A guy on CF a couple of years ago went to rebuild his L98... only to find it was a 305!!!


Good God! I'm enough of a Type-A that this might easily have caused a stroke had it happened to me. Can you imagine ...

Posted on: 2008/7/25 2:59
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Re: What's up with ARP thread sealant?
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Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:

What are you challenging me on?


My initial response to you was because I was concerned that you might have a problem and wanted to alert you to it. If you go back and read it without your ego, you'll find out I was trying to be helpful.

You then got uppity and I wasn't about to let you get away with misinformation -- "ever since I was a sperm ..." That kind of attitude often gets people in trouble. Then you said "I think I'm qualified ..." Don't be too sure of that; I'm not.

I'm dropping the subject as of this e-mail. If you want to continue to discuss this, PM me.

However, I still want you to know that you probably have a problem. You most certainly have overtorqued your water pump bolts if you used the ARP sealant and the Chevy bolts and torqued them to the FSM spec -- they are about 30-50% overtorqued. Hey, it may not cause you a problem. Are you willing to take that risk?

Posted on: 2008/7/25 2:49
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Re: What's up with ARP thread sealant?
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Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:



I spent over ten years working on F-16 and B1 Bombers and Submarines, then I spent many years in a machine shop as a Mfg engineer for Westinghouse in Baltimore. Then taught Radiation Protection and health physics for many more years. I think I'm qualified to make judgments of this type.

I'm just asking for some first hand experience with this ARP THREAD SEALANT!! Good God!

Cheers --


Did you work for General Dynamics? I rode submarines in the engineering department and we learned to "use the manual". My degree is in Nuclear Engineering. I've also taught Rad. Protection and Health Physics along with Physics, and spent fifteen years as a production engineer -- building submarines at Electric Boat. I rebuilt my first car engine in 1961 -- a flathead Ford. I think I'm qualified to challenge you.

Posted on: 2008/7/25 2:33
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Re: What's up with ARP thread sealant?
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Quote:

Qack wrote:
And it's Qack, not Quack. It's a small point, but I don't like U.


I'm sorry, but that was too good to resist.

Posted on: 2008/7/25 2:27
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Re: What's up with ARP thread sealant?
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Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:

Ever since I was a sperm swimming up the canal we put sealer on the water pump bolt threads. Not sure about anyone else, but I never had a pump leak.


You never had a leak, but it's not because you used thread sealer, but because the bolts themselves never see coolant -- unless you installed your gasket(s) incorrectly.

And it's Qack, not Quack. It's a small point, but I don't like U.

Posted on: 2008/7/25 2:26
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