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| josephf31 | Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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Hi all! I am replacing all 4 brake rotors & pads on my 91 L98 auto coupe; any suggestions on brands to use/stay away from?
I see sets of rotors and pads running anywhere from around $200 to $400 -- some drilled/slotted etc. Also any comments on installation is this a huge job any special issues or pretty much standard fare? Thanks everybody! |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 2:07
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| bogus | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
 
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It's easy.
My recipe: NAPA rotors. Get the good ones, made in Canada. Hawk HPS Pads Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid Goodridge SS Brake Lines If you don't have this, I would upgrade to the J55 brakes. Bigger rotor (13") and stouter caliper. This makes for a good, afforable street based braking system. You won't be disappointed! I am not a fan of fancy slotted/drilled rotors. The cheap ones are junk and the pricy ones don't justify their cost. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 2:15
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| Mekanic | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Registered Vendor
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Drilled rotors crack, theyre just pretty, I would never use them.
Slotted rotors are very nice, but as Bogus said, the good ones are $$$ like powerslot. J55's with good rotors, HPS pads, SS lines, and good fluid (I like superblue) = passenger ejection system |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 2:28
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~Rich Polo LT4 Yea tho I walk through the valley in the shadow of rice, I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me. |
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| Mekanic | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Registered Vendor
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oh and consider the bias spring from DRM, I havn't installed mine yet, but I hear great things
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 2:28
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~Rich Polo LT4 Yea tho I walk through the valley in the shadow of rice, I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me. |
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| josephf31 | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
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Thanks, keep the comments coming!
Are the Hawk pads oem material or metallic/ceramic? Found these on eBay, any of them look any good? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... ewitem=&item=280253558884 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... ewitem=&item=300249045720 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... ewitem=&item=350086685402 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... ewitem=&item=320284367761 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... ewitem=&item=140257250519 thx again! |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 2:57
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| josephf31 | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
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These look like the "good stuff"... more $ but worth it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DBA-FR ... 214936QQitemZ180275214936 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DBA-13 ... 253565QQitemZ180276253565 Also they are 13" rotors, aren't stock 12"" Will the 13" fit on a stock L9*? |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 3:01
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| pianoguy | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Guru Emeritus
 
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If your car doesn't see any track use, and you want to dramatically reduce the amount of dust, then take a look at the Hawk ceramic pads. I'm very happy with mine.
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 3:06
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1996 LT4 �Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.�- Jack Handey |
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| Mekanic | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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none of what you posted are worth anything to me. Drilled rotors crack, unless you spend a TON of money on some boutique rotors.
If you want amazing rotors, get powerslot. If you want damn good rotors, or you go to the track, go to NAPA lol. If low dust is what you want, the Hawk Ceramic's are great. If you want the best street stopping power, cold and hot, the HPS, and if you want to have the best performance on the street once the brakes warm up, the HPS+ is a good option. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 3:38
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~Rich Polo LT4 Yea tho I walk through the valley in the shadow of rice, I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me. |
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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Everything above will help, but the bias spring will get you more bang for the buck than anything else out there. It puts more pressure to the rear brakes and uses more of what's already there.
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 7:09
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| SpectatorRacing | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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Here's my standard answer to this question - do you want brakes that look cool, or do you honestly want better stopping? And if you want better stopping, what does that mean to you? Quicker initial bite? Better fade resistance? Be honest with yourself and others and you'll be happy with what is recommended.
If you want bling (nothing wrong with that, BTW. I have stickers on my car for added HP) then get some cheap slotted and drilled rotors. They don't crack on the street. Paint your calipers red, and run Hawk HP+ pads because they squeal when cold and you can tell people they're race pads - they're supposed to do that. If you want better initial bite then you can do this easily with pad choice. Rotors have nothing to do with it. Go to www.porterfield-brakes.com and read the descriptions of the pads. You'll find one you like in there quickly. I'd start with Hawk, but check out Porterfield's own brand, it's cheaper and pretty good. If you want fade resistance, I'm curious why...this is really only useful on track. In this case, you need better calipers that don't flex under hard braking. Bigger rotors will help with heat dissipation, and the right pad choice will get you in a temperature range based on your usage. Or, spend $6 on the bias spring mentioned by CC and be done with it. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 14:59
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
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Even the chinsy 84-87 brakes are good enough for the street.
Now, the 88+ cars seems to have this common flaw where the rear circuit becomes partially blocked and leaves you with long braking distances but nobody has identified the cause. May be ABS related. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 15:07
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| josephf31 | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
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Wow thanks everyone for the input...to narrow things down a bit, I am not planning on racing the vehicle, and it's not a daily driver, also I am on a limited budget...as long as the brakes are safe and somewhat durable I would be happy...
Thanks again for all of the advice! |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 15:14
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| Lichen | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Guru
 
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Another vote for the bias spring. I did the J55 upgrade with Hawk HPS pads, but didn't obtain the full potential until I replaced the bias spring.
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 15:16
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| josephf31 | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Can someone provide more detail on this "bias spring"?
What is it, exactly, where can I get one/how much $ and is it easy to install? Thanks!! |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 15:34
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2002 Magnetic Red C5 6 spd LS1 convertible |
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| bogus | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
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The bias spring goes into the master cylinder and determines how much braking force goes to the rear wheels.
I have one and really like it. Sorry I forgot to add it to my suggested recipe. To answer a prior question, the 13" brakes will fit fine. You will need rotors, brackets and calipers. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 16:01
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
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Bias spring is here:
http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/brake_components.htm#DRM BrakeBias Spring The corvette catalogs sell it also, but it comes from doug rippie, so you just end up paying Ecklers/Mid America extra, and waiting that much longer if they don't have it in stock. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 17:09
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| SpectatorRacing | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Elite Guru
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Hey, who's got a stock spring they can send me? I just put a proportioning valve in my car and want to go back to the stock spring.
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 18:00
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| SpectatorRacing | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Elite Guru
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Quote:
I think I speak for everyone when I say that we're going to need a full size post of your avatar pic as repayment  |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 18:01
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
In that case you should probably remove the entire combination valve and spring. The combo valve helps by closing either brake circuit if you snap a brake line, but it will reduce pressure to your prop valve and make it about useless. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 18:04
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| SpectatorRacing | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Elite Guru
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Quote:
Which valve and spring? At the MC? |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 19:09
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Senior Guru
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Remove aluminum plug from the m/c, pull the entire piston thingy out of there as if you're doing a bias spring change.
Except, just leave it out, put the cap back on, and hook up your prop valve. The prop valve instructions should say the same thing, along with "not approved for street use, racing will kill you, etc. etc..." |
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Posted on: 2008/8/12 19:18
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| Lichen | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Guru
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Replacing the bias spring is weird. It seems like the simplest upgrade that you can do, but be warned, it can be a total PITA. If you do it and have problems, post it here.
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Posted on: 2008/8/13 1:25
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| Qack | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Quote:
What kind of job is it changing springs? |
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Posted on: 2008/8/13 2:10
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| SpectatorRacing | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Elite Guru
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Quote:
WHAT??? Not approved for street use? Are you kidding? I need to take that thing off of there...it's just not safe! Didn't say anything about mucking with the master cylinder. The prop valve goes inline in the hard lines: http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images ... 9/products/pdf_5235_2.pdf I ran the brake line inside the car now, installed the prop lever next to the shifter. Well, my fabricator did. I'm good, but still too chickenshit to flange a brake line. Hey, it's my life on the line, here! I'll take a look at the MC. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/13 19:11
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aka Scaryfast |
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Well, it's a race part, and meant to be used in conjunction with their master cylinders, which you notice don't have anything but a cylinder and reservoir. It dumps full pressure to both circuits, and you use the prop valve to reduce rear pressure. Your setup is going to be reducing it at the stock m/c and render your prop valve useless unless you want some rear pressure even lower than stock for some bizarre reason.
If you gut that stuff you'll have to put a metal plug where the brake warning switch is, or else it will leak. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/13 19:36
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| Jeffvette | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Elite Guru
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Quote:
I'm going to go ahead and disagree with you right there. There is nothing wrong with drilled rotors, as long as they are properly made. I use them on my ZR-1 front and rear and abuse the hell out of the system at the track. Rotors have been on the car for 5 years averaging about two track days a year at minimum. Never has one cracked. Been through 2 sets of pads, but no rotors. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/13 22:51
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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On mine the holes fill up after the first two sessions anyways with brake dust and become useless.
Wilwood used to say the drilled were for street use only, but they've since replaced that tidbit with a bunch of fluff about it helping with outgassing the pads, which is b.s. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/14 4:49
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| Mekanic | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Registered Vendor
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Unless you go with an extremely expensive drilled rotor, they will crack. Super expensive 2 piece D/S rotors had better not crack, but when you start shopping at normal prices, and come across a drilled rotor at OEM prices, they will crack, quickly.
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Posted on: 2008/8/14 5:04
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~Rich Polo LT4 Yea tho I walk through the valley in the shadow of rice, I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me. |
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| Jeffvette | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Elite Guru
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Quote:
They don't have to be extremely expensive. But yes, they are more expensive than a regular rotor. But then again, when I spend 6k in brakes, I expect them to last up to my abuse. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/14 5:42
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| Mekanic | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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you spend 6k on brakes they better be able to stop from 200 in 75 feet lmao.
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Posted on: 2008/8/14 6:25
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~Rich Polo LT4 Yea tho I walk through the valley in the shadow of rice, I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me. |
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| SpectatorRacing | Re: Brake rotor and pads recommendations pro/con? | ||
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Elite Guru
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Quote:
His car anticipates his thoughts and stops before he even thinks to hit the pedal... In the real world, nobody needs slotted or drilled rotors anymore. In the past the effects were useful, they allow an escape for gasses which are released from the pads. Nowadays pad compounds don't have anywhere near the outgassing effects of just a few years ago. Good drilled or slotted rotors are great, cheap ones actually crack. A good one will have chafers at each hole to eliminate a place for stress to concentrate and start a crack. In most cases now they're just cast into the part. My rotors have cracks all over them, that's fine as long as the cracks don't make it to the edge. A solid rotor is actually better in many ways, the higher mass will keep it cool longer and help dissipate heat. Today it's just bling. I've discussed with Corvette brake engineers in the past, and originally the C5 Z06 had solid rotors but customers complained because Porsche still uses drilled. So GM went to a less effective drilled rotor to sell cars. |
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Posted on: 2008/8/14 13:58
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