Re: Banski MotorSports is having an inventory reduction sale. 20% off all products. |
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That sucks. I can certainly get you a replacement without an issue. What "space option" did you select? I'm not sure I understand that.
Posted on: 2017/2/4 12:57
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Re: Banski MotorSports is having an inventory reduction sale. 20% off all products. |
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Quote:
There are a ton of options out there for sure. I've been using Aurora Bearing rod ends from the start and have no issues with them. I use just the regular Teflon lining but I've seen composite linings as well. I've also seen polymer rod end options from companies like IGUS, which might be something you want to look @ given the environment you describe. Just make sure they have a similar load rating (radial static of 8200 lb) if possible. The polymer constructions might not be rated that high in the sizes used in this application. Be wary of what you might find on line, I get email ALL the time from Chinese bearing mfr's telling me how great their products are and how they can save me money. Yeah, maybe initially but I've seen what's down that road. With regards to sizes: the threads are 5/8"-18 UNF. Keep in mind that one side is a right handed thread and the other a left. Early on the frame side had a rod end with a 1/2" thru hole and a 5/8" thread so it would directly accommodate a 1/2" bolt without a reducer. Later on I changed that to be a 5/8" hole & thread on both sides with the frame side needing a reducer (it simplified inventory). That's no big issue as a 5/8" to 1/2" reducer is readily available so you can make the swap easily. I can get replacement rod ends for $17.50/pc, RH or LH. The 5/8" to 1/2" reducers are $2.50/pc. If you need more info or have additional questions just let me know or shoot me an email.
Posted on: 2017/2/4 12:55
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Re: Banski MotorSports is having an inventory reduction sale. 20% off all products. |
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Jeff, did you ever get the info you were looking for? I apologize for not being more responsive. Feel free to email me through our website and I'll be happy to help.
Posted on: 2017/1/29 15:58
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Re: Banski MotorSports is having an inventory reduction sale. 20% off all products. |
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The sale has been over for a while now and I accomplished my goal of reducing inventory.
Unfortunately the toe rods have been phased out. Although a very popular product the cost of this kit was getting higher every time I sourced parts. Mainly due to the cost of the custom machined differential bracket and knuckle adapters. I considered dumbing down the design to reduce cost but didn't want to ruin what I thought was a good product. The Trailing Arms and Camber Rods are still available but in a slightly different form. Both of those are sold much more a-la-carte now, with the customer being able to buy as little as the suspension links themselves and making their own related parts. Or being able to add those related parts as options to their kit. The spacers are no longer custom machined specifically for the C4 application. Rather they're a bit more generic but still work well with the TAs & CRs. There is the need for a shim in some mounting points but it usually won't require more than a 1/2" or 5/8" washer. Guidelines for making your own related parts as well as installation instructions can be found in our new reference library (https://www.banskimotorsports.com/c4-ref-library.html)
Posted on: 2017/1/29 15:55
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Banski MotorSports is having an inventory reduction sale. 20% off all products. |
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Yup, subject says it all. I have a lot of inventory I'd like to move so everything has been marked down 20%.
This includes all of the C4 rear suspension kits and their options (lo profile clamps, steel bodies & rod end boots) as well as the pin top shock mounts. These prices will only last while supplies of the products do so don't wait too long. Feel free to PM or email me (tom@banskimotorsports.com) for current availability.
Posted on: 2016/8/30 21:33
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Re: CentralCoaster is still alive, thanks for asking... +tech ramblings |
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The only thing I have for C5s right now is Hardbar's Pin Top Shock Mount. I had a design for an adjustable sway bar link but the design was pretty expensive to make in small quantities so it wasn't viable enough. I might revisit that though. I'll contact you off line to discuss some test fitting.
Posted on: 2014/12/30 11:54
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Re: Better late than never? Updates from Banski MotorSports |
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The nickel looks really good, those pictures don't really do them justice. A few years ago I made an aluminum set for a ZR1 show car and had the aluminum rods polished (close to an SPI A3 finish) and then clear anodized.
They looked good but IMO the nickel looks better and is more durable. Less money than the polishing & anodizing as well.
Posted on: 2014/12/25 4:01
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Re: Better late than never? Updates from Banski MotorSports |
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Forgot to mention that right now I have one set of trailing arms, two sets of camber rods and one set of toe rods that are nickel plated steel with the standard clamps.
They're ones I had made when the steel first became available because I wanted to see how they'd come out. For these sets there is no additional charge for the nickel plating but this is not something I plan to offer unless someone specifically requests it. It can be very expensive, to do all 4 kits I have now was $250. Trailing Arm Kit Camber Rod Kit (there are two of these) Toe Rod Kit
Posted on: 2014/12/24 18:23
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Better late than never? Updates from Banski MotorSports |
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Well I was finally able to get to the website updates I have wanted to do for some time, which includes some new options for our rear suspension system:
All three kits can be had in anodized aluminum or plain steel. There is now a choice of the standard omega clamp (gold irridite aluminum or black oxide steel respectively) or a new stainless steel, lower profile clamp that can strategically add some more clearance if necessary. Any existing kits out there can be retrofitted with the low profile clamps. The clamps, as well as all the other major components of the systems are also available as extras or spares that can be ordered individually. Rod end boots can be ordered individually now as well. Questions, comments, inquiries? Just let me know. And I hope you all have a great Holiday.
Posted on: 2014/12/23 21:36
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Re: CentralCoaster is still alive, thanks for asking... +tech ramblings |
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SpectatorRacing wrote: As for end links, if Banski is defunct then you should be able to easily make a set using some decent heim ends and threaded rod. The C4 aftermarket is all but dried up...sad but true. Not defunct, at least from a business sense. I had a design for swaybar end links that I thought improved on the existing products but found that the cost of the product was more than the market would bear to make it worth while. Can't justify putting resources towards new products with low margins.
Posted on: 2014/12/23 21:27
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Re: F/S: 1993 coupe, lots of suspension & brake upgrades |
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They did come out nice. It's actually pretty simple and just two caps that are holding a spherical bearing in place. I may have had to modify the diameter of the lower shock mount but can't recall. I did a similar spherical bearing with a T-bar for the lower mounts on the front as well. I wanted to do it as a retrofit kit for the stock bilsteins but it was somewhat costly and I had to slightly modify (ie grind) the lower shock body to make it work. Since it wasn't entirely bolt in I didn't think it was engineered enough so I went back to the drawing board.
Posted on: 2013/11/17 1:37
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F/S: 1993 coupe, lots of suspension & brake upgrades |
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I'm the 2nd owner of this car and have been since '99. From '01 to '07 it was a dual use street-a/x-track car. From '08-'10 it was a trailered track only car. You'll see that it still has a full interior, this was a rule requirement for the class I chose to compete (Time Trial) in, despite being trailered.
This would also be a great starting point (and excellent handling street car) for a restoration. Located in Manchester NH. Lower Price!! Asking $6000. Reasonable offers will be considered. I have hi res images of all the ones below if you'd like them emailed to you. I still have my trailer and am willing to quote delivery if you need it. * 109,000 original miles on the motor with no major work * Auto trans (3 spd + OD) * Turn One PS pump (rebuilt from OE core) * Cut for hi flow airbox lid * K&N air filter * Corsa Stainless Steel Cat-back exhaust * Camber Brace installed * Spare tire removed * rear license plate removed to reduce “parachute effect” * Front fog lights & directionals removed & replaced with cooling air ducts for front brakes * OE fog lights & directionals are included * Harness bar (made by Hardbar USA) * With camera mount & fire extinguisher * (2) Teamtech 6 point cam lock harnesses (not currently installed but included) * Currently has a non-OE driver’s seat bolted directly to the floor * OE driver’s seat with power seat rack included * “Square tire setup”: 17” x 9-1/2” wheels with 275 wide tires on all 4 corners * Factory option for Z07 package for this model year * Currently equipped with street/rain tires (will pass inspection) * Comes with EIGHT additional 17” x 9-1/2” wheels (six currently have race tires mounted) Trans rebuilt in 2010 for reliability -------------------------------- * Installed high(er) stall torque converter * Installed additional trans fluid cooler * Fluid pan has been modified to have drain plug to ease fluid changes Brakes ------- * J55 13” rotor & caliper upgrade (factory option for this model year) * Doug Rippie Motorsports brake bias spring in stock master cylinder * LEMD braided stainless steel brake lines on all four corners * Currently has Wilwood E compound (track) pads on all four corners * Comes with spare set of street grade brake pads Suspension ----------- * Z51 (early C4) springs and swaybars * OE Bilstein shocks * Hardbar USA pin top upper shock mounts, all four corners * Lower mounts have been modified to have Teflon lined spherical bearing * Infinitely adjustable, Teflon lined rod end style sway bar links on all four corners (some spare parts may be available) * Upper A-arm: Delrin lined aluminum bushings and custom built spindle with adjustment for bind * Lower A-arm: Delrin lined aluminum bushings with shoulder bolts * Front spring modified for ride height adjustment and corner weighting * Rear suspension links have been replaced with Teflon lined, rod end style Banski MotorSports adjustable links (trailing arms, camber rods & toe rods) * (1) set of spare rod ends included * Banski MotorSports low friction rear spring mounts
Posted on: 2013/11/10 16:49
Edited by bogus on 2013/11/23 2:21:34
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Re: Thinking Of Driving The 1985 Back And Forth Across The US Next Year ... |
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Quote: j3studio wrote: Oh, that's gorgeous ... ... wondering why I've never heard of it.
Posted on: 2013/9/14 13:21
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A belated Happy Holidays from Banski MotorSports |
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Hey Gurus. Yet again it's been way too long since I've had a chance to log on and see what's been going on. I did want to say I hope everyone had a good Holiday season and hope you have a Happy New Year.
I'm working on some upgrades to my online shopping cart that I hope will let me return to processing credit card orders directly and make the shopping experience a little easier for the customer. I have plenty of stock and I'm working hard to keep the prices the same for 2013. If there is anything I can help you with don't hesitate to contact me.
Posted on: 2013/1/1 17:47
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Re: Banski camber rods installed |
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p.s. am i able to order just 2 dust boots? Sure, just PM or email me your info. I have a number in stock and more on the way.
Posted on: 2012/9/29 13:49
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Re: Banski camber rods installed |
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That's great feedback. We'll have to check the write up again to see how the wording is. The images were left a little vague on purpose since each car and user are going to be different. Andy is correct though in that we recommend installing the spacers such that the rod is at the gentlest angle when at rest. Quote:
This is something we've run into before. Unfortnately the rear knuckle is not as precise a part as I'd like to see so there can be some variation in the width of that opening where the rod goes on that side. If you have access to a lathe (or a friend with one) it's usually a short job to face the end of the spacer to make it slightly shorter. We have also reworked spacers for some who have had this issue but that obviously takes longer. Quote:
There is a little trick here that uses a short piece of wood dowel or some other kind of rod that is 5/8" in diameter. Using that allows you to get the boots on and spacers lined up on a bench and keep everything in place with that short rod. Then put that end into the knuckle and slide the bolt through and the goal is to push the short rod out with the bolt so the boot & spacers stay where you put then when you were working on the bench. Hope this one makes sense, it's hard to describe with just text. Quote:
Glad you're happy withe purchase and we look forward to doing more business with you.
Posted on: 2012/9/19 11:59
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Re: Just letting you know Banski MotorSports is still here |
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Honestly, I have a couple of things that I've been working on for a while. One is a low friction upper control arm which would be a total replacement for the stocker. There would be a low friction bushing kit to go along with it for the lower control arm.
I've also been working on adjustable swaybar links for both the front and rear. I have prototypes of all these things on my car but struggle with how to produce them in good quality but be able to price them to sell. I'm NOT going to source things overseas, period. I've tried to focus on what I have now and make those products bear fruit to keep the business going. So far it's done well, I just need to continue doing that.
Posted on: 2012/6/7 23:37
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Re: Just letting you know Banski MotorSports is still here |
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I'm happy to say that a rainy weekend here in the NorthEast has allowed me to get our stock in order and we have plenty. We have all of our C4 rear suspension kits, pin top shock mounts and rear spring mounts in stock and ready to ship.
If you have any questions or need any help don't hesitate to contact me.
Posted on: 2012/6/2 23:24
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Just letting you know Banski MotorSports is still here |
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Even though I've hardly posted here on The Guru we're still around and kicking. BMS had to move into a new home this year which set us back quite a bit as far as development and time. There was very little testing this year and unfortunately no new product introductions. On the up side, through all the turmoil we kept up with the orders we had and even started selling through ebay a little bit. I just wanted to let everyone know that we have stock on the shelf of all our suspension kits , our rear spring mounts as well as the Pin Top Shock Mounts we distribute, including the kits for C4 FX3 shocks If anyone has any questions just post up or drop me an email. I hope all the Gurus have a great 2012!
Posted on: 2012/1/2 22:04
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Re: Suspension help |
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Well I certainly hope you'll choose the Banski products, but being the proprietor of Banski MotorSports I'm likely a little biased. Just know that we have lots of parts in stock and if there is anything I can help you with just post up here or feel free to email me.
Posted on: 2012/1/2 16:46
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Re: Name in order the inferiority of factory suspension components vs. Banski type parts |
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Any sales coming up on your products. Unfortunately no. We're struggling to keep prices where they are.
Posted on: 2011/7/28 20:16
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Re: New rear spring mount based on low friction pin top shock mounts |
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We've revamped the kit a little to reduce the price and enable the kit to be used with the stock style and most aftermarket bolt springs on the market. I've updated the OP.
If you have any questions be sure to ask!
Posted on: 2011/7/20 23:50
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Re: New rear spring mount based on pin top shock mount. |
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We've revamped the kit a little to reduce the price and enable the kit to be used with the stock style and most aftermarket bolt springs on the market. I've updated the OP.
If you have any questions be sure to ask!
Posted on: 2011/7/20 23:21
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Re: New rear spring mount based on pin top shock mount. |
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Friction isn't a problem in the axial function of the bushing but compression of the bushing is.
The low friction comes into play now that the mounts are incompressible. I wanted to make sure that if there was any sliding that needed to take place that it would happen as freely as possible.
Posted on: 2011/3/20 20:35
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New rear spring mount based on low friction pin top shock mounts |
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We recently received our first shipment of a new, low friction, rear spring mount that is based on the same Delrin and stainless steel design as the pintop shock mounts we distribute from Hardbar. This mount allows free movement of the stock transverse rear leaf spring while removing the rubber or poly bushings usually used that can mask the real rate of the spring. They can be used with any stock or aftermarket spring bolt up to 9/16" or 14 mm diameter.
Below are some pics of the kit but more information on this new product can be found on our website. Retail price is $70 and they can be purchased directly at our online store. Contents of the kit: Shown here with spring bolt (bolts not included): close up of the bolt head and the kit:
Posted on: 2011/3/19 21:17
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New rear spring mount based on pin top shock mount. |
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We recently received our first shipment of a new, low friction, rear spring mount that is based on the same Delrin and stainless steel design as the pintop shock mounts we distribute from Hardbar. This mount allows free movement of the stock transverse rear leaf spring while removing the rubber or poly bushings usually used that can mask the real rate of the spring. They can be used with any stock or aftermarket spring bolt up to 9/16" or 14 mm diameter.
Below are some pics of the kit but more information on this new product can be found on our website. Retail price is $70 and they can be purchased directly at our online store. Contents of the kit: Shown here with spring bolt (bolts not included): close up of the bolt head and the kit:
Posted on: 2011/3/19 21:13
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The FX3 compatible pin top shock mounts are finally here. |
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It took longer than I expected but I'm happy to say the the C4 FX3 compatible pin top shock mounts that we distribute from Hardbar are now here. You can get all the details on this fantastic pin top shock mount here. Until now they were only available for C4s with 10 mm pin tops but now we have a kit that is fully compatible with the ride adjustable FX3 shock. The FX3 kit was test fitted to a C4 that ran FX3 shocks with coilovers as well as the FX3 shocks we recently put on our own track car. Below is a picture of one of the rear shocks off the coilover equipped car. Notice that everything stacks together and is bolted with the OE nut that comes on the shock shaft. Bolt the eyeball plate to the rear frame and this shock is ready to go.
Below is a pic of how the sensor cup of the FX3 controller fits into the Stainless Steel cap of the shock mount. There are two Stainless Steel caps per shock and they have different size through holes to accommodate different parts of the shock shaft. Some care must be taken during assembly but the included instructions will show you everything you need to know. For more information on this product please visit our website where you can view some videos of how this shock mount works. We're excited to have these in stock and they can be purchased at our online store that is now accepting credit cards.
Posted on: 2011/3/5 22:10
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Re: Name in order the inferiority of factory suspension components vs. Banski type parts |
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Quote:
No, only the springs will adjust ride height.
Posted on: 2010/12/13 18:27
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Re: Name in order the inferiority of factory suspension components vs. Banski type parts |
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Rubber, I don't think so. I believe everything aftermarket will be poly.
Posted on: 2010/12/12 15:24
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Re: rear hub/bearing |
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30k miles is pretty a pretty short life for a wheel bearing, unless you're really flogging your car.
If it's for street use only I'd check RockAuto or GM Parts Direct. If you're looking for something a bit more substantial, the SKF bearings are good but something I'd recommend that's comparably priced is the VanSteel bearing offered from Hardbar. Can't make any recommendations as far as sellers on ebay, I don't have any experience with them.
Posted on: 2010/12/12 15:07
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Re: Name in order the inferiority of factory suspension components vs. Banski type parts |
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Let me try to add a little development history to the conversation in hopes that it will help.
I agree with statement that the trailing arms and camber rods are almost equal. If a customer asks for a recommendation on just one kit I usually say the order is (4) trailing arms then (2) camber rods then the (2) toe rods. However, I've found that if a customer orders just the trailing arms, they're usually returning in a short time (within a couple of weeks) to get the camber rods as well. Originally I hadn't planned on doing the toe rods because they are indeed ball joints on both ends in the OE setup. However, I had a number of customers ask about the toe rods so I began working on them. As I got into it I realized that there were some advantages. They may have been more geared for track use but that's the arena I'm in as my car is trailered for track use only. The first thing was that I was able to eliminate another set of grease fittings. I might be in the minority but I HATE grease fittings so I liked getting rid of them. Another, that I have not done it myself but have looked into, is bump steer in the rear. Theoretically you can adjust the bump steer slightly by spacing the hiem joint on the stud that bolts to the suspension knuckle, which isn't possible with the OE unit. A couple of convenience things I found as well: using the same kind of components as are used in the camber rod kit setting toe is very easy and quick. I end up doing a lot of alignments on my car and each time I do an alignment I also set the thrust angle. The ease of use of the toe rod kit makes this process a bit simpler and saves time. Again, this may be something more geared towards track dogs but I think it is an advantage. Lastly, although it's an initial investment, you can more easily replace only the damaged components in our aftermarket toe rod kit. I believe the OE toe rods are an assembly that has to be replaced in its entirety if damaged or bent, less of course the outer tie rod ends. I like this because in the event of an impact the likely part to fail will be the long aluminum turnbuckle of the toe rod, which also happens to be a relatively inexpensive component and only the damaged side needs to be replaced. If the rod ends wear, they can be replaced (inners or outers), again, relatively inexpensively. Hope this helps. I'll check back to see if there's any other questions or feel free to drop me a line.
Posted on: 2010/12/12 14:50
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Re: How much would you pay for a pair of adjustable swaybar links? |
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Quote:
That's a good idea. Luckily my brother lives near by and he's built a lot like me so he comes over and sits in the driver's seat and has a beer while I set the swaybar links! Nice work if you can get it.
Posted on: 2010/12/3 15:53
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Re: How much would you pay for a pair of adjustable swaybar links? |
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It's to remove any preload when the car is corner weighted. In the case of my C4: I disconnected both swaybar links and corner weighted my car. Then I put my equivalent body weight in the driver's seat (which in my case is not trivial task!) and shortened one of the links to it's minimum and connected it. When I went to the other side I had adjust the length of the 2nd link so that I could bolt it together without having to load the bar at all. If the links were the same I would have had to push down on the one side of the swaybar to get the bolts to line up.
Posted on: 2010/12/3 13:09
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How much would you pay for a pair of adjustable swaybar links? |
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We have what we think is a design for a better adjustable swaybar link for the C5/C6. Unfortunately making them is small quantities (to start) is making the cost of goods high. So we'd like to get your help in determining what the market will bear. All the adjustable links I've seen are like ones shown here and sell for around $300 per pair: Not surprisingly we believe the ones we have designed are a little better execution of the same idea. We am using a Teflon lined rod end with thru hole in it so we can bolt the link to the bar with a Class 10.9 metric nut & bolt and remove the cantilevered stud from the link. We're also using Stainless Steel tapered spacers to allow maximum rotation of the rod end. We'd also offer the links with or without rubber rod end boots. Boots help keep the rod ends clean and free of debris and lengthen their life. Lastly, and we think most importantly, our design uses two rod ends with a stud in between, rather than a male rod end threaded into a female rod end like shown above. This last feature makes our link infinitely adjustable whereas the other links are only adjustable in 1/2 turn increments. This means that once your car is corner weighted you can connect the swaybar and ensure that there is zero preload for maximum performance How much would you pay: 1) No more than the $300 the current ones go for 2) $300-$400 3) $400-$500 4) more than $500 if you thought they were really worth it
Posted on: 2010/12/2 1:03
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How much would you pay for a pair of adjustable swaybar links? |
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We have what we think is a design for a better adjustable swaybar link for the C5/C6. Unfortunately making them is small quantities (to start) is making the cost of goods high. So we'd like to get your help in determining what the market will bear. All the adjustable links I've seen are like ones shown here and sell for around $300 per pair: Not surprisingly we believe the ones we have designed are a little better execution of the same idea. We am using a Teflon lined rod end with thru hole in it so we can bolt the link to the bar with a Class 10.9 metric nut & bolt and remove the cantilevered stud from the link. We're also using Stainless Steel tapered spacers to allow maximum rotation of the rod end. We'd also offer the links with or without rubber rod end boots. Boots help keep the rod ends clean and free of debris and lengthen their life. Lastly, and we think most importantly, our design uses two rod ends with a stud in between, rather than a male rod end threaded into a female rod end like shown above. This last feature makes our link infinitely adjustable whereas the other links are only adjustable in 1/2 turn increments. This means that once your car is corner weighted you can connect the swaybar and ensure that there is zero preload for maximum performance How much would you pay: 1) No more than the $300 the current ones go for 2) $300-$400 3) $400-$500 4) more than $500 if you thought they were really worth it
Posted on: 2010/12/2 1:02
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Re: Suspension bushing replacement with engine out? |
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I'm happy to announce that we are now an authorized distributor of the entire Seals-It product line! This means that we are now offering our C4 rear suspension kits with the rod end boots you'll need for added protection and near zero maintenance. In addition, we are offering boot only kits for those of you have already purchased our suspension kit(s) and might want to add them. We'll be integrating the entire Seals-It product line into our online store in the coming weeks and months.
Posted on: 2010/11/28 0:53
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Re: Suspension bushing replacement with engine out? |
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In the past I've never found them necessary but my car is a track only car so I can certainly see how some people might want to use them. That's actually not a bad idea. I'm going to work on that.
Posted on: 2010/11/17 23:52
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Re: Suspension bushing replacement with engine out? |
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True, an un-lined rod end with a zerk fitting is better than an un-lined rod end without a zerk fitting. However, the rod ends we use are Teflon lined and have been quite robust. Adding a rod end boot (like the ones from Seals It) will make them zero maintenance for some time.
Posted on: 2010/11/17 3:02
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Re: Don't taze me bro! |
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Quote:
bogus wrote: Quote: Sorry guys, .45 ACP is still regarded as the best man stopping round. AND it's not prone to over penetration, causing other legal issues.
Posted on: 2010/11/5 21:16
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Re: How much dis-assembly for front main seal (LT1)? |
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Thanks very much for all the tips. I'll certainly plan on doing the oil pan seals and the timing chain if there is any question at all. MSD ignition will be likely too once I get a chance to read up on it.
Any recommendations for a water pump? Are there any that are built specifically for the track? I had my stock steering pump rebuilt by Turn One and so far so good. Is there any kind of equivalent for the water pump?
Posted on: 2010/10/27 23:35
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Re: How much dis-assembly for front main seal (LT1)? |
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All those things certainly make sense, and were things I had in the back of my mind. Especially the water pump, oil pan/gasket and the Opti.
Mileage is 110k with 65k of that being since 2001 when I started autocrossing/track days/time trials/trailering tires. Sounds like it might be time to have the motor pulled and either do a re-build or a swap?
Posted on: 2010/10/26 11:28
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How much dis-assembly for front main seal (LT1)? |
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I think it's the source of the oil leak and am curious what else I may want to change or upgrade as I work my way down to it? What will I cross along the way?
Posted on: 2010/10/26 0:21
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Re: Smart Struts worth it? |
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Not yet. I plan on tweaking the design a bit to ensure further robustness and then need to go through a design review to see if we can simplify manufacturing. After that it's out to quote. I hope to have pricing established in November. Come to think of it, that's really not that far away is it?
Posted on: 2010/8/30 1:55
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Re: Smart Struts worth it? |
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I thought that poly wouldn't make a big difference in the front either but I was quite surprised. After installing the prototype Delrin lined bushings (both upper and lower control arms) and the adjustable UCA spindle I was amazed at how much better it felt, even on the lift. Like in the rear, with the poly bushings installed (and no spring in place) when the spindle was lifted to full bump it wouldn't fall back down under its own wieght due to the binding. I installed the prototypes up front and the only force you had to exert to lift the spindle was the wieght of the components. Let it go and it falls down freely under its own wieght. Quote:
We are close. I've been very happy with the performance so far although it's been hard to quantify as reliability issues with my car's power steering have made it hard to get officially timed laps because I'm in the garage. I'm hoping to get out to Watkins Glen in Sept, back to NHMS in Oct and down to NJMP in Nov to complete the reliability testing and then tear it all down for inspection. I'm hoping to have news of a release by The Holidays.
Posted on: 2010/8/27 1:45
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Re: Did my first ride with Patriot Guard last night |
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NH has had a string of lost soldiers recently (three I think in the last few weeks) so unfortunately more fallen hero missions are in the near future.
Posted on: 2010/8/16 13:07
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Did my first ride with Patriot Guard last night |
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I recently commited to donating some of my time to the Patriot Guard Riders. The first "mission" (their term not mine) I went on was last night to help escort New England's only Gold Star Mothers Memorial to my (new) home town, Manchester NH.
Only six of these monuments will be made and only one will be in New Englad. Our group picked up the caravan that was coming from Gettysburg PA @ the state line and the dozen or so bikes we had joined the 3 dozen or so already escorting the caravan to ride up Route 93 into downtown Manchester with a State Police escort. In the caravan were various members of the committee working to put the memorial in place as well as some of the Gold Star Moms. If you're unfamiliar with the term, loved ones of military personnel serving in areas of conflict may display a blue star for each loved one serving. If that service man or woman dies during their service, the star can and should be changed to a Gold one. Lynn & I currently have a blue star in our front window as her son is deployed in Iraq with the USAF. I have to tell you, riding in that caravan, and eventually standing in front of 6 women who have lost children in combat is a humbling experience. You realize that no matter how over worked you may be, how under appreciated you feel, or how worried you are that the budget will balance at the end the end of the month, it pales in comparison to what some have given so we can have the precious ability to do just that no matter who we are or where we come from. No matter what your political or idealogic leanings are, support the troops that are serving their, and your country by donating or volunteering to one of the hundreds of great organizations that do so.
Posted on: 2010/8/16 11:57
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Re: C4 article in Corvette Entusiast by Andy Bogus |
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Well JohnyH beat me to it: many thanks to Andy for such a great article on our rear suspension. We're very excited to see the article happen and even happier that we've gotten such great feedback from our customers so far.
Thanks Andy!
Posted on: 2010/8/14 20:53
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Re: How do you remove the old bushings on rear dogbones? |
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On the trailing arms that shouldn't be an issue as the knuckle side is a cantilevered bolt so all the spacers and the rod end ball should butt up snugly. On the frame side I would think that a little torque on the 1/2" nut & bolt would make the frame bracket close enough to do the same thing. That would be easy enough to check, even without dis-assembly. Both ends of the camber rod mounting are pretty stout so you might not get that type of closure there. Quote:
And before that corrosion wears off you think it's causing the noise you're hearing?
Posted on: 2010/7/21 20:54
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Re: How do you remove the old bushings on rear dogbones? |
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I'd be curious to hear your results as well. One of the knocks on the rod end suspensions was the noise. I feel the Teflon lined rod ends help substantially in that respect. You're referring to squeaks which I think comes from a different source in the Teflon lined rod ends. I'd be interested to hear what you find if you did boot & grease the Teflon lined rod ends.
Posted on: 2010/7/19 17:49
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Re: How do you remove the old bushings on rear dogbones? |
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Understood. Which is why I'm wondering if what I percieve as an improvement in including a new UCA spindle will be worth the additional cost to customers? I may end up making two versions: one for use with the stock control arms and spindle and another that includes a new spindle rod for those who wish to make that mod. I can't the see that advantage to grease in either however.
Posted on: 2010/7/19 17:41
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