Just used jack stands here as well. I didn't take off the camber arm, didn't disconnect the tie rod, didn't take the spring or the half shafts out either. Just used extensions and a wobble, rotating the halfshafts to get access and a good angle. The biggest problem I had was that I was stupid enough to use an extension I got at a 99 cent store; predictably it exploded when I was trying to loosen a tight bolt and my little finger was quite a bloody mess afterwards, in fact it still hurts when I think about it. Good luck James and thanks again for that brake caliper.

Tom:
Is it compatible with the FX3 shocks?

Quote:
I agree.
Just changed my GM bought fluid with 20K on it(I should add it looked in a sorry state, there was a visable copper sheen to it and it was quite dark, which surprised me but it shifted fine) to Amsoil MTF and it shifts just fine both cold(by my standards)normal and high RPM; if there is any change it is less notchy between 2nd and 3rd.

The high Potassium and Sodium are indicative of a coolant leak in the oil. The low viscosity is probably due to high gas content due to running rich. I assume this is Mobil 1 5w-30. How many miles was the oil in there? The chromium is ring wear. The silicon could be from RTV when the heads were done, did they use RTV that was exposed to oil, is the portion of the head gasket that is in contact with oil silicone based? The iron content is high and could be from abrasive wear if the silicon is coming from other that Gasket material. The high wear levels could be a result of reduced lubrication due to a coolant leak contributing to the problem.This is the baseline for Mobil 1:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ ... umber=1407129#Post1407129
Retest after the next O/C as mentioned before or post it on www.bobistheoilguy.com

If you do consider parting it, could you list your race only parts in more detail. What kind of brakes do you have? Good luck!

Should be readily available at any parts store, here are the part numbers from Rockauto:

Item Price Core Total Advice

BENDIX Part # 66288 More Info
Front [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty (Only 8 Remaining)]

$5.25 $0.00 $5.25
Add to Cart
RAYBESTOS Part # WK2004 More Info {Professional Grade}
Front

Part Image
$6.20 $0.00 $6.20
Add to Cart
ACDELCO Part # 18H170 More Info {replaces 18031644 #18031644, 19203661}
CALIPER KIT,FRT BRK DURASTOP; 2 DOORS; 1-1/2IN CYL BORE
CALIPER KIT,FRT BRK DURASTOP; CONVERTIBLE; 1-1/2IN CYL BORE

Part Image
$7.56 $0.00 $7.56
Add to Cart
DORMAN Part # D352004 More Info {First Stop #10104486, 12520229, 12520230, 12520231, 12520232, AW346529, AW349942, F4ZZ 2221-A}
Front; Bore = 1-1/2"
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

This is also a very informative site with a lot a pro engine builders that post:
http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewfo ... 84a06bd81af1f917a413a2eca

Quote:
Interestingly you actually can have too much pad surface area; radiation is a major component of heat transfer at the elevated temperatures that a rotor operates at,as you increase pad surface area or utilize dual calipers(this is the reason along with unsprung mass that you never see these anymore) you impede the cooling of the rotor. The braking force is independent of surface area, but a small pad surface area will rapidly overheat. Practically, increased pad surface area is a benefit because the pad will have reduced temperatures and greater longevity, the larger pad surface could result in increased pad taper, especially in a single or dual piston design. Bottom line, you are right the greater pad area of the C5 caliper is better and the recommended book by James Walker is a very good one, that is where I get most of my info from(along with having worked in Aerospace many years ago.)

Quote:


Calipers are crucially important from a thermal reliability point of view, but when it comes to stopping power, assuming the same rotor diameter, piston diameters, master cylinder, vehicle characteristics(mass, CG, wheelbase, etc) and most importantly tires; physics dictates that the coefficient of friction of the pads is the predominent factor in generating the braking torque.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/The ... f%20Braking%20Systems.pdf

For a $1000 budget, you could probably get a 4 piston Wilwood BBK. Those prices seem very high for a J55 or C5 upgrade. I am in the process of upgrading to C5's from J55's on my raced 94 using used parts(dirt cheap nowadays), the two primary reasons are (1) cheaper and more available racing pads and (2) greater thermal capacity because the C5 rotor is 1.25" thk v. 1.1" on the J55. Braking performance is more a function of the pads than the calipers and rotors so spend your money on a good set of Hawk HPS or HP+'s. As for used prices, I paid $60 for a set of C5 calipers, $60 for the abutement brackets, $100 for the C4/C5 adapter bracktet, $30 for rotors and I got EBC racing pads as a promo for free. You routinely see complete used J55 conversions for $250. Also, as others have said, leave the rears as they are.

I believe I have arrived at a compromise solution. A 3mm spacer along with carefully grinding the Trailing arm bracket. This should yield about a 1/4" lateral clearance with the Dunlops. I had the alignment done at -2.7 front, -2.0 rear, 1/16 toe out in front, 1/16 toe in on the rear, 6 deg castor. Can't wait to try it out.

I have got down at Roger Kraus Racing for an alignment and they would take a look at it as well. It would be just the tip of the flange and possibly an 1/8" spacer. I picked up these Dunlops(and spares) very economically(F-R-E-E) after the NASA 25 hour race from Porsche teams and I am going to make it work.

It is a 1994. The 300 is section width in mm or 11.81". The 660 is overall diameter in mm or 25.98" and the 18 is of course wheel OD in inches.

I just swapped on 4 OEM ZO6 18 x10.5's all around with super wide Dunlop 300/660-18 racing tires. Fronts fit perfect but I am not so sure about the rears, it looks very close between the tire and the trailing arm brackets. Have not test drove it yet. Is this my imagination? Anyone running 315/18's or greater on the rear without spacers?
1) It looks like an 1/8" spacer would do the trick, anything special I should know? Any recommendations on where to get them?
2) Is trimming the bottom of the trailing arm bracket an alternative?

Got a really good deal on these very fresh Dunlops and absolutely want to use them.

Just wanted to confirm that on a 94LT1, that the inlet hose is low pressure and can be attached with a conventional hose clamp. I am replacing my leaking cooler with a used one, which came attached with the fancy factory inlet hose(double crimped on the cooler side with a flare nut o-ringed threaded connection on the opposite end.) When I disassembled my cooler, I kept the threaded connection intact(it never leaked and I don't want to fool with it! if possible) Is it O.K. to use a standard hose clamp or is there a reason for the double crimped factory attachment to the cooler?