Just want to know if a 92 corvette engine will fit and work on the 96 corvette? Thanks

Assuming both are LT1, yes.

You will want to update the sensors... There are electrical differnces.


I will update this later.

When did OBDII start? I think there was a change somewhere between those two years.

That is probably what Andy is referring to. Or not.

I think ODBII was '94 or '95 wasn't it?

95 was obdI with an obdII connector and 96 had obdII.

Optispark is slightly different with the newer ones being vented. There are a few differences, but Andy knows way more about LTXs than I do.

Matthew

The opti drive would be different, and I'm not sure if there was a crankshaft position sensor on a '92.

By osmosis, we have about covered all the issues.

You will want to use both the new style (1996) timing cover and gear drives (get new chain and timing gears - DO NOT REUSE USED!!!!!!!!). This will allow the crank sensor to continue working.

Swap all sensors over, this way they will fit the harness.

You can swap over the opti, if in good condition.

I would also swap over the valve covers, for look issues.

Finally, swap over the waterpump, the water plumbing is totally different.

Reuse your existing accessories - power steering, AC, etc. The belt style changed after 1993.5.

Fuel lines are different on the later manifold, but the connection points are the same. Reuse your existing injectors. Replace O-rings.

If I think of anything else, I will fill in the gaps.

Andy, wouldn't you have to swap the ECM, different injection? And, would a 92 ECM plug into the harness?

Differences on the 92-93early belts are the tensioner, idler, p/s pully and belt.

FYI the 96 covers are hard to get now.

GM no longer sells them

Let's take a step back... The OP has a 1996 which blew up.

He is asking if the 1992 motor will work and yes it will. However, to do it, he will have to follow the steps I listed above.

You see, he already has an existing car to accept the transplant, so the harnessing isn't an issue. This becomes a mechanical swap.

As I stated, he has a 96 engine, so all he needs to do is swap over the timing cover and such and he is set. Same with the belt drive components.

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

To the OP - you should have asked this in your existing thread, then all the backstory would have been included.

I assume this 92 engine is coming from a Corvette? Are you SURE it's a 1992? Starting in 1993, the F-Bodies got the engine and in 1994, the B-Bodies. There are variations in them all for fitment to that car line.

Also, do NOT trash your original engine. This transplant will get you back on the road quicker, but you will want to get that engine professionally rebuilt at some point. If you are going to store it, remove the plugs, fill each cylinder with oil and reinstall the plug. Fill the engine with oil (cheap crap, it matters not), tape up the exhaust ports and all inlets for air and coolant. Then wrap the motor in plastic to pickle it from the elements.

Hi Andy,
I paid a mobile mechanic to swap the engine for me...He swapped all the sensors, water pump, valve covers, oil pan, intake manifold, fly wheel, timing cover, and gear drives from my 96 to the 92 engine( however, he didn’t swap the new chain and timing gears). Instead of swapping the 96 distributor, he used the 92. After he put the engine back in the vehicle, the engine would not start. It has gas and fire and will crank ok but wouldn’t turn over and keep it running. Sometimes, there also a loud popping noise coming from the air intake. My questions are:
1. What causes engine to do this?
2. Is it a problem with bad timing, because we didn’t get a new timing chain and gears? (I also attached a picture of the crank and camp gear laying next to my 96 motor. Please tell me if it matches, because I think he may have installed a camp gear from 92 and a crank gear from 96)
3. Are there any differences between the 96 distributor and the 92 one? Can this cause the engine from not running? What is the difference between a spline-type “type I” and Pin-type “type II” distributor? How can I tell which type of distributor is correct for the motor?

I really appreciate your help to solve this problem.

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I know that in addition to the drive and the improved venting on the '96, the wiring harness would be different, but if it's a '92 harness to a '92 distributor, that wouldn't be it. Sounds more like the distributor wasn't aligned properly when installed.

You should have swapped the entire front of the engine over.

Don't screw with this process, ok? It will cost you a shit load more in the end.

Get that wrench back, get new timing gear set and seals for the timing cover and swap that opti over.

You also have to use the crank sensor, I am not sure how that is working when using a 92 cover.

The later opti uses a larger bearing and will not fit on the earlier timing cover.

I know you are on a budget, but damnit man, don't do this so it ends up ruining you. The "new" opti from that 92 could be dead for all we know.

HE using the 96 timing cover, with the crank sensor. HE told me that he swapped the entire front of the engine of my old 96 engine to the 92, except for the opti. Do you think should I just dig in to replace the 92 opti with the 96 to see if it work first, or do I have to take off the timing cover and replace a new timing gear set? Do I have to remove the whole engine out of my car to get to the timing cover/gear, or can I just do it while the engine is still in the car? Thank you very much

Take a look here, lots of good info

http://www.lt1.org/lt1tech.html

Then swap in the 1996 opti. I am shocked it fits.

The 1992 opti is a totally inferior design. Put the 96 back on.

Careful on the camshaft!

Thank you very much guys, for all of the useful informations. I was shock to found out that the 92 engine that I purchased is not a 92, because of the different in the timing cover. Below is a picture of it. It could be the guy who sold me the engine doesn't know the history of wrecked 92 corvette, and assume his engine is a 92. Yes, my 96 timing cover does have a slot for the crank position sensor. From what I recalled, both opti are look identical. So do you guys think the problem I'm having is just a DEAD/out Alignment OPTI, or it could be something else? Please help me out guys....I decided to dig in and swap out the opti tonight when I get home from work, and post more pictures. Thank you very much for all of your helps.

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It could still be a 92

A lot of owner have upgraded to the later style optis.

That should make putting it in yours a lot easier.

You do need to watch the timing chain.

What is the best way to remove the crankshaft balancer to get to the opti, and can I remove the balancer hub while the engine is still in the vehicle? Thank you very much

Assuming it's an LT1, pull the 3 bolts on the balancer.If you have a 6 speed, put it in gear, pull the parking brake to break them loose, you'll have to turn the motor over to get access to all 3 but you can turn it with a socket on one of these bolts.
If things look rusty, I'd hit hub/balancer with some PB Blaster the nite before (from the rear, under the car).

You then can get inder the car and with a 2-3 ft piece of wood, like a dowel) knock the balancer loose going from one side to the other. They usualy loosen uo with 5-6 hits.

What many guys don't do is be careful where you put the dowel, it should contact the balancer right at the hub, so that you're not beating on the OD of the balancer.

I used Bill's method on mine, but I have also heard that if you loosen those 3 bolts a bit and then run the engine briefly (with the belt still on), the balancer will break free.

On my car, I can't get the balancer pulley completely out without jacking up the engine a little - to do this, I just removed the 2 nuts holding the mounts to the frame, and put a 2x6 between the floor jack and oii pan, and jacked it up an inch or so.

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I couldn't get mine off at first either but found out thet he shape of the hub was the interference, one of the 3 piont was pointing down which made it impossible fo the balancer to come out. I rotated the hub a little and there was enough clearence (barely).

Yeah, to get the opti cap off, the ears on the hub need to be at about 10, 2 and 6 o'clock, but to get the balancer free they need to be at about 12, 4 and 8. Mine still wouldn't quite clear without jacking it up some.

Hey guys,
After installed my old opti (from 96 engine)to the engine, without install the water pump, i just hook up all the spark plug wires, air intake, and other sensors. Then attempted to start the engine...YESSSS, IT WORK! I'm so happy . So now all I have to do is put everything back together. By the way, can you guy help me to install all of the alternator support bracket back together. Picture would be nice. Thank you very much for all your help.

Great news, glad to hear!

Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the braces. On my '96, there is a bracket that mounts to the intake manifold and crosses over the top of the valve cover, and then to the rear of the alternator and A/C compressor. The A/C and alternator both bolt to that bracket, and the end of one of the alternator braces (likely the shortest brace) bolts between the bracket and the alternator, and the other end of the brace bolts to the exhaust manifold by the #1 cylinder. One end of a second brace mounts in a recess between the A/C and the large aluminum accessory bracket, and the other end mounts to an exhaust manifold bolt just to the right of cylinder #3. A brace for the A/C also mounts to that same bolt near #3, and to the lower rear bolt on the side of the A/C compressor.

92 Bracket

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