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| tobijohn | Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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Got the old one out and the new one connected to the line but how are you supposed to depress the pushrod enough to get the slave flange over the studs? There's very little room in there to get any muscle on it and the O2 sensor is right in the way of everything. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...
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Posted on: 2009/12/27 20:23
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John 1996 LT4 coupe black/black 160 Tstat, K&N, Hypertech PPIII (for the fans), CAGS, Nitto 555 EPs, 275/315s, Chrome A-molds, a little tint and some black-outs AIRFOIL FREE! |
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| Jeffvette | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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Flange on the aftermarket is thicker than the original which causes one problem. You can either grind on the flange, or get new longer studs.
But, you can slid it in at an angle, just make sure you get the tip on the cup of the pivot arm and then use pressure to get it to seat. |
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Posted on: 2009/12/27 23:32
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| tobijohn | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
Thanks Jeff, the problem is it seems there's no room in there to get any leverage to put pressure on the slave and push it over those studs. Also, once you do manage to get it on, how do you keep pressed on long enough to get those nuts started. I'm sure this would be a lot easier on a lift... |
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Posted on: 2009/12/27 23:52
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John 1996 LT4 coupe black/black 160 Tstat, K&N, Hypertech PPIII (for the fans), CAGS, Nitto 555 EPs, 275/315s, Chrome A-molds, a little tint and some black-outs AIRFOIL FREE! |
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| Jeffvette | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Elite Guru
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You should just be able to use your hands to compress it. Or just crack your bleeder valve open a smidge.
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Posted on: 2009/12/28 0:38
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| tobijohn | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Senior Guru
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Thanks again Jeff, I'll give it a try first thing tomorrow AM...
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Posted on: 2009/12/28 0:55
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John 1996 LT4 coupe black/black 160 Tstat, K&N, Hypertech PPIII (for the fans), CAGS, Nitto 555 EPs, 275/315s, Chrome A-molds, a little tint and some black-outs AIRFOIL FREE! |
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| tobijohn | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Senior Guru
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A couple quick questions:
The illustration in the FSM shows the bleeder valve on the side of the slave (90 degrees from the hose connector) however, both the old one and the new one are on the bottom of the slave (180 degrees). The instructions say to rotate the bleeder so that it's pointing up. There's no way that can be done given the length of the line. Also, the FSM has you bleed the slave with it disconnected from the clutch housing. Someone at the other place (theadmiral94)stated: "btw, the reason to NOT pressure bleed the slave before install is that it pushes the nose too far out, making it difficult to install, as well as pushing the piston into non-machined areas of the cylinder walls, often damaging the piston seals at the same time. Further, there is a plastic ring/retainer that is designed to limit the max travel of the piston-rod, which if pushed too far, can break that plastic retainer or worse -- push the piston and the rubber nose completely off (ask me how I know this).." http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-te ... lutch-slave-cylinder.html (Post #4") So how should it be done? |
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Posted on: 2009/12/28 2:41
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John 1996 LT4 coupe black/black 160 Tstat, K&N, Hypertech PPIII (for the fans), CAGS, Nitto 555 EPs, 275/315s, Chrome A-molds, a little tint and some black-outs AIRFOIL FREE! |
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| Jeffvette | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Elite Guru
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I will do a manual bleed after installing and tightening down the lines. I put a wrench on the bleeder screw and leave it open (yes some fluid will drain out) but depress it against the oil pan or some other surface, then close the bleeder and then pull the slave off the object I was depressing it against. Then I just pump the hell out of the pedal.
Some people get all worked up on this shit. It's not hard. You have dirty nasty fluid in there, undo the bleeder line, let it all run out. You want to get some new fluid in to flush out any impurities, water decomposed rubber, etc. |
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Posted on: 2009/12/28 3:01
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| tobijohn | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Quote:
Got it, thanks again. AS for dirty nasty fluid, that leaked out long ago. It's been leaking so bad, I've been topping it off every ten miles or so. The old one looks to have been leaking both from the seal and the mandrel... |
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Posted on: 2009/12/28 3:57
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John 1996 LT4 coupe black/black 160 Tstat, K&N, Hypertech PPIII (for the fans), CAGS, Nitto 555 EPs, 275/315s, Chrome A-molds, a little tint and some black-outs AIRFOIL FREE! |
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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I have the stainless braided line and my fluid still turned black. I woulda thought the stainless line had a teflon hose in it. Although I haven't checked it since ditching the slave that had the aluminum piston corroding the steel cylinder. That coulda been it.
I stick a fender washer over the slave pushrod when bleeding, that makes it easy to compress by hand without looking for something to jab it into or crucifying my hand. |
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Posted on: 2009/12/28 18:04
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| CentralCoaster | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Quote:
I agree with this to an extent. You can bleed it with the slave loose, but don't push the pedal too hard or yeah, that retainer clip will be gone. I hate trying to pedal bleed it with the slave installed, because the pedal never gets stiff, it just moves against the pressure plate spring, so it's hard to tell when you've got the air out. |
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Posted on: 2009/12/28 18:07
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| BrianCunningham | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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how about a plate with two bolts to keep it from popping out?
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Posted on: 2009/12/28 18:09
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Polo Green 95 LT1 6-spd http://mysite.verizon.net/vzevcp74/ 383 LT1/Vortech Supercharger/AFR heads/Rod end suspension/Penske-Hardbar dual rate coilovers/Wilwood 6pot brakes NCCC Governor: http://BayStateCorvetteClub.com |
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| Dads90 | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Guru
 
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The bolts will extend out to compensate for the thicker slave housing. I just put a wrench on it and once it broke free I hand twisted it out. Removed the lower one completely and it makes it much easier install. Once it's hanging on the top bolt, just rethread the lower bolt.
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Posted on: 2009/12/30 5:33
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1990 Silver Blue Metallic, ZF6, Hurst shifter, Z51, Dana 44 3.33 ratio, FX3 system, mostly stock. 
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| tobijohn | Re: Problems getting the new clutch slave installed | ||
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Senior Guru
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UPDATE
Well, I haven't been feeling too well lately and wrestling around under there on my back with no elbow room just was exacerbating the situation. So I had the car towed up to a neighborhood shop that rebuilt my Ranger's transmission. It was just as I thought: it took more time to get the car up on the lift than it did to get the slave in. If you've got a little room to manuever, it'a cinch, thicker flange, OBDII O2 sensor in your way or not. As for bleeding, no problem there either. Didn't pre-bleed it before installing, just an initial gravity bleed, about ten minutes of me in the car on the lift pumping the clutch and the tech underneath working the bleeder valve (and occasionally getting on a step ladder to top off the reservoir) and the job was done. Free AAA tow, $20 tip to the tech and $50 shop charge and I was good to go. Learned a few things in the process and if/when I have to do it again, I'm pretty sure I could do it without the lift. Thanks again for all the help... |
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Posted on: 2009/12/31 18:42
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John 1996 LT4 coupe black/black 160 Tstat, K&N, Hypertech PPIII (for the fans), CAGS, Nitto 555 EPs, 275/315s, Chrome A-molds, a little tint and some black-outs AIRFOIL FREE! |
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