It's an "opti" code.

DTC #36: Distributor Ignition System High Pulse.

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It's an "opti" code.

DTC #36: Distributor Ignition System High Pulse.

Errrm, no its NOT the optispark, module 9 has got nothing whatsoever to do with the engine management, have another read...

Burn the Chilton's manual. or use it for a wheel chock. The FSM will decipher the codes, and it provides a trouble shooting chart for locating the cause of the codes.

RACE ON!!!

This might be of some use to you ! http://www.corvettedoctor.com/1992_93_DTC_Codes.html

On the 92, almost everything will show up as an "H" except tha C12 (no codes). I think this happens when you shut off the key and any codes get stored.

In module 9, the H63 is Valve Solenoid Relay Fault ( Valve Solenoid Circuit Error on Andy's sheet, same thing).
Yep, looks like that will trigger the ASR/ABS lites.
When the ign is on, this realy provides voltage to activete the solenoids and provides a ground path for the "service abs" lamp.
Service ABS and service ASR lites will be on and a code 63 will be set when the Valve Solenoid relay voltage falls to less that 5 volts.

I'd first try and reset that code, go to 9.7 to reset, and see if it comes back and the lites go out.

If not, BURN the Chilton. The diagnosis is on page 5E1-82 in the real manual.

BTW, I want your wheels for my Black Rose.

Where is this Valve Solenoid at if I need to change it?

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Where is this Valve Solenoid at if I need to change it?

You will never know if it is defective, unless you TEST it. Otherwise, all you are doing is throwing money and parts at the problem in hopes that the "shot gun" method will end up hitting something. A code identifies the circuit or sensor that sent a "bad" or out of parameter reading. It does not state the cause of that bad reading. After the code is identified, you must diagnose the cause of the code. Take an O2 for instance. If you get a code that reports a rich mixture, does that mean the O2 is bad? Or does it mean that because of some, yet to be discovered problem, that there really WAS a rich mixture. The same is true, especially, of codes pertaining to the EGR valve. Seldom, when there is an EGR code, is the EGR valve the cause. The [color=blue:906514afca]FSM[/color:906514afca] tells how to extract the codes, what circuit or device each code is related to, and most importantly, a trouble shooting chart to help you diagnose and track down the CAUSE of the problem, minimizing the expense of unneeded parts. The book isn't cheap, but depending on the job and the potential for false diagnoses, it can pay for itself in one job. Plus it has a lot of neat reading where you can learn a lot about how the systems in your car work.

RACE ON!!!

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On the 92, almost everything will show up as an "H" except tha C12 (no codes). I think this happens when you shut off the key and any codes get stored.

In module 9, the H63 is Valve Solenoid Relay Fault ( Valve Solenoid Circuit Error on Andy's sheet, same thing).
Yep, looks like that will trigger the ASR/ABS lites.
When the ign is on, this realy provides voltage to activete the solenoids and provides a ground path for the "service abs" lamp.
Service ABS and service ASR lites will be on and a code 63 will be set when the Valve Solenoid relay voltage falls to less that 5 volts.

I'd first try and reset that code, go to 9.7 to reset, and see if it comes back and the lites go out.

If not, BURN the Chilton. The diagnosis is on page 5E1-82 in the real manual.

BTW, I want your wheels for my Black Rose.

Thanks for the info. Like I said, I'm pretty sure I deleted the code the first time around, and the lights never went off. When I did the check again, the code either came back or was still there. Where is this Valve Solenoid at if I need to change it?

Yep, youve gotta do all that, and id have to say, if the codes were cleared, when the vehicle is started the MIL lamps should all go out, including the ABS and ASR lamps until you reach the 3mph test, if they are not going out, id say youve got some sort of a short to ground in there, or other electrical issue.

Couple of things:

1) I'm aware of the fact that there are a number of things that could cause the code to be thrown, but if I know where to look for the "valve solenoid" then I could maybe trace down a faulty wire or bad ground somewhere.

2) Maybe I'm not erasing the code the right way. I'm pretty sure I went to 9.7, got it to show three dashes, but then I turned the car off and pulled the paperclip out. Should I start the car after getting the dashes? Or what do you mean but "other electrical issue"?

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Yep, youve gotta do all that, and id have to say, if the codes were cleared, when the vehicle is started the MIL lamps should all go out, including the ABS and ASR lamps until you reach the 3mph test, if they are not going out, id say youve got some sort of a short to ground in there, or other electrical issue.

Couple of things:

1) I'm aware of the fact that there are a number of things that could cause the code to be thrown, but if I know where to look for the "valve solenoid" then I could maybe trace down a faulty wire or bad ground somewhere.

2) Maybe I'm not erasing the code the right way. I'm pretty sure I went to 9.7, got it to show three dashes, but then I turned the car off and pulled the paperclip out. Should I start the car after getting the dashes? Or what do you mean but "other electrical issue"?

If you got 3 dashes in 9.7, you cleared it. If you leave the paperclip in and turn the key off, then back on. You should see C-12 first, then it will cycle thru 1.0, 4.0 and 9.0, and should show 3 dashes at each one.

I don't think starting the car is necessary for this particular problem.
Unhooking the battery probably won't change anything but it's worth a shot.

If you got 3 dashes in 9.7, you cleared it. If you leave the paperclip in and turn the key off, then back on. You should see C-12 first, then it will cycle thru 1.0, 4.0 and 9.0, and should show 3 dashes at each one.

I don't think starting the car is necessary for this particular problem.
Unhooking the battery probably won't change anything but it's worth a shot.

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If you got 3 dashes in 9.7, you cleared it. If you leave the paperclip in and turn the key off, then back on. You should see C-12 first, then it will cycle thru 1.0, 4.0 and 9.0, and should show 3 dashes at each one.

I don't think starting the car is necessary for this particular problem.
Unhooking the battery probably won't change anything but it's worth a shot.

Starting the car wont do anything for it. C12 is only related to the CCM, its got no relation with the other 3 modules.

Hey Case, I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here. C12 is no codes stored in the CCM but if you have a code in any module the C12 won't show up.

AllData is a tool used by shops. it's designed to allow independants to get factory support data. It's expensive as hell.

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Hey Case, I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here. C12 is no codes stored in the CCM but if you have a code in any module the C12 won't show up.

It does on mine, C12 shows there is no DTCs present in the CCM module (module 1). The other modules are only displayed through the CCM (module 4 being ECM, module 9 being ASR/ABS, and module A being air bag).