If some of you recall this thread Gas Pedal Mount, a company called Unique Cutting & Metal Works began producing replacement gas pedal brackets for our C4s. The original brackets are surprisingly made out of plastic and are known to break, especially if racing the car, etc. I have been in contact with the owner of Unique Cutting, Bill, in order to test out one of the new brackets. Bill is a top notch guy and the brackets are excellent quality. Bill includes a well detailed instruction sheet along with the bracket, but I figured I'd add a few pictures of my own.

To start with, there are three versions of the brackets:
Version 1 - 1984-1988 GM#10126447 (14053662 on bracket)
Version 2 - 1989-1991 GM#10066476 (14104715 on bracket)
Version 3 - 1992-1996 GM#12551528 (no id on bracket)

It is important to note that the brackets are not interchangeable. Bill states the pedal arms themselves have slight differences, as well, so these parts should not be interchanged, either.

Here are few pics of the actual brackets. Good quality cutting, welds, and finish work:





Here is a comparison to the stock bracket:



The measurements for all the critical areas are identical, and as you can see it has a heavier duty vertical mount.

Begin by removing the throttle cable from the throttle body in the engine bay. This will give you slack while working under the dash:





Next, remove the hush panel under the steering wheel. The panel is held in place by four 7mm screws near the front and a serrated disc that presses on to a stud towards the firewall. You will also need to disconnect the clip for the light.



Once that is out, you can see that the pedal assembly is held to the firewall with two studs (non-removable) and two nuts.



Remove the two 10mm nuts being careful not to drop them behind the carpet. If so, you'll be fishing them out with a magnet (ask me how I know ). Once the nuts are removed, you can pull the bracket away from the two studs. You should see this:



At the top of the pedal arm is a plastic retainer that holds the throttle cable. Use a pair of long handle needle nose pliers and carefully pinch the rear tabs to pop it out, then slide the pedal arm off. Here is a shot of the pedal arm top to show you how it goes:



The pedal arm is attached to the bracket with a tube that has two flared ends. (According to Bill, the V1 uses a solid pin). Bill recommends grinding the flared ends off and punching out the pin/tube. I clamped the assembly down and carefully used a 5/16 drill bit to cut off the flared end. Just take caution not to drill into/through the pedal arm.





Once the pin is out, you can clean the arm of any debris and install the new bracket. You should do this on the bench, before you install it in the car. Lightly lubricate the new clevis pin and mount. Verify that there is no binding.



Put the pedal assembly back in the car and reattach the throttle cable retainer first. Once clipped in, install the two supplied spacers on the firewall studs and push the pedal bracket back on. The insulation around the install area of the firewall may get in the way, so be sure this doesn't interfere with seating the bracket correctly. Reinstall the two 10mm nuts and tighten them down. Be careful not to overtighten them. The FSM calls for 7-10 nM (about 5-7 ft lbs). I'm sure that was due to the previous plastic bracket, but don't be heavy handed.



Your install should look like this:



Reconnect the throttle cable linkage to the throttle body. Verify that everything is operating smoothly. Enjoy your new, stronger throttle bracket!

Part of my installation was also testing the bracket for operation. I used a Tech 1A to monitor TPS voltage for the different brackets.
Stock bracket TPS at rest .54v, full throttle 4.60v
New bracket V2 TPS at rest .54v, full throttle 4.60v

The new bracket was very smooth and performed identically to the stock one in terms of feel and function. I think this is a worthwhile upgrade for anyone who participates in motorsports with their C4 and is a great replacement both for broken stock brackets and for preventative maintenance (like mine).

Bill can be contacted here on the forum under his screenname redlite32 or his website http://www.uniquecutting.com/

Thanks to everyone for looking,

Matthew

I agree. As these cars age, the mount becomes more and more suspect.

The V1 is the worst for breaking, but they all can... and as mileage rises, heat and cold cycles... the plastic becomes brittle and will, at some point, break.

I would rather replace the bracket before that happens!

Looks great, gonna add that to my to-do list!

Nice work Matthew, Bill's work is 1st Class

Just curious, did your plastic mount show any signs of stress cracks or obvious wear problems?

Joel

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None that I could visibly see.

Thanks Mat.
Nice write up.

Joel

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Thanks.

I added a few more pictures to the first post.

Joel, if you look at the third picture I have comparing the stock and new bracket, you can see my stock one appears in good shape. But obviously this part breaks (as evidenced by other posts on the forums) and the only way to replace it other than Bill's aftermarket part is to buy a used pedal assembly from a corvette boneyard....and who knows if that will be functional (non-damaged) or how long it will last.

Matthew

Does this allow you to push the pedal farther down and therefore make the car faster?

Matt do you have your platic one? Can I have it? I have several pedals I use for various things. It's been tricky to get my pedal relationship perfect since I changed the brake pedal.

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Lol....no. Pedal travel is identical.


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I still have the plastic piece....it's a second generation version.

If you look at the pic above there is an extra "leg" or stopper on the front of the third gen. Once the pedal arm contacts this, pedal travel is over. I am making an assumption that GM put that there to prevent stretching the throttle cable. Adding a spacer like that might assist you in getting proper pedal travel.

If you want my old plastic bracket it's just sitting in my parts box.

Matthew

Nice write up and thanks for the kind words Matt.

Spectator what are you needing to accomplish? It would not be too hard to make a special mount.

Bill S.
Unique Cutting & Metal Works

Sent him an e-mail. Looks like a great product!