Took out Opti and crank pulley today. Going to do a bunch of cleaning while I am in there. De-greasing everything I can get to now that there is no Opti to worry about. I am curious about cleaning the pulley as far as if I should give it a polish or what process is okay for it chemically speaking? The pulley came off with a few taps from the back with a 1" X 2" piece of wood and I had clearance to lift it out before the Opti was removed. Overall the removal process has not been the nightmare I was prepared for from all that I have read about it. Happy for that. When installing the new Opti, should I have the coupler in the Opti or the case to attach it? Thanks all...

Attach file:

---

  crank and opti.jpg (619.43 KB)


  Motor no opti.jpg (552.69 KB)

Clean it up with some brake clean, but be sure to put some never seize on the mating surface with the hub when going back together.

I'd leave the drive shaft in the timing cover.

Note: That shaft should not be flipped around (if you pull it out of the timing cover, mark which end was in there).

The shaft has one wide spline to key it to the opti, mark, or note it's location then mark the wide spline on the new opti so you can line them up on install.

If the keyed splines are lined up, you will be able to push the opti up against the block. If you push the opti on and it stops, leaving a 1/4 in gap between it and the block, the keys probably aren't aligned. DON'T try and pull the opti to the block with the bolts.

One the pully, I'd degrease it, very light sand with 220 wet or dry (with or without water) and shoot it with hi temp.

And what Andy said on the anti-seize.

If you ever remove that hub, make sure you mark it's location on the crank. And check on how to do it, you can't just use a puller on it.

soak some simple green or purple power on that crossmember... I would also get a cheap pressure washer to blow that crap off down there!

Check the oil pan gasket, might be a good time to get at that...

you may want to replace the opti drive seal... weeping pretty bad. The downside? you really have to take the timing cover off to do it right.

What Bill said about the pulley... it isn't keyed, so you need to leave an ink pen mark on the yoke at the arrow. unless that white mark inside the yoke is it, if so, your golden.

judging from pic #1, the plastic on the cap was breaking down... ick...

I recommend either AC Delco or MSD for the opti.

MSD - Summit Racing or RockAuto.com

Delco - Call my friend Chris at Superior Chevy, 1.800.728.8267, be sure to tell him I sent you.

Water pump, Delco... unless you want to upgrade to electric.

To be honest, I prefer the MSD unit. It has been updated with a vent system, better seals and bearings. The GM unit hasn't been changed at all.

Also, get the 1996 version waterpump, and get new hoses. It allows you to do the throttle body by pass, get rid of that stupid T on the upper hose... and makes for all the heater lines on the right side of the engine. So much tidier.

Rockauto does NOT carry the MSD opti...

However, another suggestion, update to the single sided serp belt. Much easier to find on the general market, and all you really need to get is the later 1994+ power steering pulley. Replace the tensioner and both idlers with smooth pulleys and your good. I am willing to bet all three parts are in need of replacement by now.

Simply get the pulley, idlers, tensioner, waterpump, hoses and belt for a 1996. Easy. I also recommend the Goodyear Gatorback belts. Very quiet and hold up well.

Great time to replace the seals

Also a great time to replace any lines or hoses

You're lucky - my pulley won't come out of there unless I lift the engine.

Go Big Red!!!!......welcome to the Guru....

Brian is right... the power steering line is hard, but it has 2 small 2" long rubber couplers - one on the reservoir, one on the pump.

not a bad idea to swap them out.

Thanks for all the good tidings for the New guy! Got it all back together and she is purring like a big kitten. Did lots of cleaning and hose and part replacements. I guess I shall consider myself lucky at how easily everything came apart AND went back together! Looked for codes today and the only one I got was a 72 and I am thinking that it is from the stereo replacement. Is the throttle body by-pass a performance issue or just to clean up the compartment? Thanks again for all the help! I am thinking that I would like to eliminate the 1 to four shift thing once and for all if you have some tips on that! GBR!

One of these CAGS bypass plugs will work fine. Otherwise you can have it programmed out of your PCM if you ever have your car tuned:

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette- ... -cags-plug-1-371-721.html

1992 does not require any special handling if you unplug the CAGS. It just goes about it's business rather stupid like.

The bypass cleans up the engine compartment and, if you did what I suggested, by using the later waterpump, gets rid of a number of potential leak points.

Simply disconnecting the CAGS at the transmission and covering the harness ends on the 1992 is all that is needed then? Will that trigger any codes?

Quote:

Yep

And no codes.