First time I noticed it was this morining after I came to a quick stop today when a guy blew through a red light I got home shut the car off and coolant came seeping out of my car onto the drive way I can't find a leak but there's evidence of one it looks like its behind a pully.its a stock 92 with the lt 1

Center of the motor? Could be the water pump. Careful, that can ruin your optispark.

Yeah, sounds like the waterpump. Could be one of the heater hoses coming off the water pump too. I had one blow out on mine. It was hard to find but it made one hell of a mess.

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This would be if your lucky.


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This would be if your not.

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Yea, definately on a 92. Stick a paper towel under the w/p and above the opti, see if it gets wet.

Since I have a 92 and I experienced the SAME EXACT issue when my water pump went.
Water was comming out the weep hole in the water pump.

Time for a new water pump and opti. If the opti isn't dead yet you can limp through another week or so while you get the parts and supplies. Figure a little less than $1000 for the parts (water pump, vented opti, thread sealer for the water pump bolts, coolant, distilled water, replace any original hoses - my gosh they are 18 years old) and a good long weekend. The balancer will be the hardest part to remove if its never been off.

Well... as sad as your situation sounds, you came to the right place! Welcome aboard!



At this point, I don't know your knowledge level; I hope I am not insulting your intellegence with the following explaination, I just want you to be 100% clear of what is going on.

The water pump on the LT1 is mounted on the front of the motor and driven by the cam drive, not a belt.

Please refer to the image attached for a reference where everything is.

A few thoughts (repeats of above, but asked differently):

* I don't know mileage and/or age, but, when the water pump fails, it is historically accepted to replace the OptiSpark with it.

* The MSD or DynaSpark are the best available options. The OEM units are fair, the reman units from Autozone, et.al. SUCK.

* Consider some easy and cheap enhancements:
1. Upgrade to later style single sided belt. I am pretty sure that the idler pulleys are about ready for replacement, get them for the single sided belt, and all you really need to buy is the right 1994+ PS pulley.
2. Upgrade to a 1995+ water pump. It simplifies the heater hose routing and does the famous throttle body bypass (eliminating hot water from passing through the throttle body). It will also require a new upper rad hose, but that was a given already - 1995+ upper rad hoses are much easier to find than the earlier 2 piece hoses.

* If you decide to tackle this project, you will need a PS pulley tool, not expensive, from Autozone, et.al. for about $20.00 or so.

* The harmonic balancer needs to be marked for reinstallation. I normally use a mechanics marker, writes on most anything! I suggest cleaning the area first, then soaking it in PB Blaster, then leaving it for a while. Once soaked for a while, remove the bolts (3) and get under the car. Using a hammer and 2x4, whack the left, then right, then left sides of the balancer until it walks off. More annoying. Remember, mark it for location before final removal! There is a mark, but it's hard to see, something bright white or yellow will really light off down there. Before installing, rub a little antiseize onto the fitting for easier future removal.

* Do a full tune-up. Plugs (NGK) and wires (Taylor). It will be easier with the opti fully exposed. The opti design does help a little, whereas one side has all even wires and the other all odd.

* Finally, if you hate the opti, consider an upgrade such as the LTCC. It interfaces with the opti, but uses LS1 coils for high voltage. I have had this setup for 7+ years and 50k miles. It does work. www.bailey-eng.com

Basically, this project can be done and will help you upgrade some weaknesses in the car and catch up on perhaps some deferred maintenance. Take a couple of days and just do it right!

Please, ask questions. We are here to help! Also, where in the world are you?

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Parts for the belt conversion are:

Belt
Tensioner
P/S Pulley
Idler Pulley

I have the GM part numbers if you want them.
BTW, this was a GM Service Bulletin for noisy/fraying belts.
Bulletin # 93-273-6A

The harmonic balancer only needs to be marked for a quick reference when putting it back on. One of the 3 holes is offset. It will only go on one way with all 3 bolts in.

Good Luck

I think we scared em off.

he may not have work internet access... not everyone checks this place on a daily basis.

Come to find out i had a clump of grass in the radiator and im guessing it over headed ive had no leaks since i took the front end off.I'm going to replace the water pump and the opti. Cause as soon as i realized it was under the pump i said F**k they really had to put it there

I wouldn't go replacing water pumps and optis just to do it.

Was your coolant on the hood of the car too? When my pump bearings went out I had coolant sprayed on the hood. If you just had a puddle under the car you may be lucky and just have a hose leak or something simple. If you don't need to dig into that opti or pump, I'd really reconsider it until you actually have to do it.

My bigger concern is that the OEM opti got nailed...

@ilmvette - a few pointed questions:

1. Is it the original Opti? Do you know the age?
2. Mileage?
3. Did you have any issues with PS when this occured?

If you answered YES to #3, then it might not be a bad idea to replace it all. Also inspect the radiator; they are prone to busting a seam when they overheat.

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Andy - what would make you thing that? The OP never said anything about problems with engine, just that he noticed coolant under the car. That's a lot of replacing for a leaking hose or even a leaking factory radiator. Happens all the time. I feel these optis are much better than we give them credit for. I had a ton of coolant all over mine and it was still working after 150k miles. Just sayin'

Edit - Ok... I missed the part about him saying it could be coming from near a pulley. But still I'd eliminate everythign else before pulling the opti amd water pump for giggles.

I'd drive it. Mine went 35k after the PO had a blown w/p replaced.

Its got 85k on it and everything original as far as i know I have all mantaince records and nothing but the hoses were replaced

my buddy said it could be the weep hole or the overflow tank from the grass because i havent had an issue the opti got rained on

the ps has been fine

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What goes out on a 92-93 opti after it gets wet is the bearing. The GM units aren't sealed all that great but many will still run past 85k like yours.

Like I said, I'd still drive it. But I would recommend checking for any codes using your dash. All this takes is a paper clip. The "how to" is in our tech library under engines. I printed it out and keep a copy (and a paperclip) in my 92 all the time.
If you get any opti codes or notice any miss or even a hickup when idling thru a parking lot, it's propably time to replace the opti.

If you do change the w/p at some point, you can get a small right angle fitting and epoxy it into the weep hole with a piece of vacuum line on it to channel that water away from the opti.
And if you put a MSD on, it has the venting system already built in and has 100% better sealing (o-ring vs paper gasket) than the GM

the opti is yellow so im guessing its orininal

very good possibility.

what NGK plugs to you guys suggest?

I like the Platinum. I am not a fan of replacing these things all that often, and the platinums hold up very well. Use the standard .050 gap.

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I'm runnin' TR-55s

its the weep hole it did it again today

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Well, now you done it! Time for a new pump if you're really weeping! I guess I'll cave in and tell you to change the opti too since it's the original.

Just don't do what I did and rebuild the whole top end of the engine because the water pump went out.

ive got 4 bolts out trying to find the other 2

is the pully suppose to pop off its not moving

No, the w/p pulley is on permanantly.

Also, when you do get the pomp off, there's a cupler between the w/p and the shaft in the timing cover. Mark it with an arrow pointing towards the block. It's only supposed to go on one way.

i got it off im missing like 70 bearings in the spline ill upload a pic thanks for the help the opti is covered in residue

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What pulley? WP has no pulley. Are you talking about the crankshaft pulley? To get that off you will need to remove three bolts and knock it off with a 2X4 if it doesn't come off easily. Are you replacing the opti? Just curious because I'm wondering why you need to remove the pulley. You will also have to remove the crankshaft hub to replace the opti-spark and that requires a special tool or a lot of patience and ingenuity with some make shift puller tools.

Where are you at in the WP replacement?

yea im going to do the opti water pump will be in tom morn

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As I said, get the MSD or DynaSpark.

Your WP is SHOT. No question about that.

It was spewing out of the bearing. The seal gave up.

You will need to save the water pump drive coupler.

Did you upgrade to the 96 style?

Im not sure its from advanced i kept the coupler that links the splines with the skinny washer

Here's what the MSD on my 92 looked like inside at 10k. Also, at the ned of the thread is a pic of where I plumbed the MSD vent tubing,
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... id=133891#forumpost133891

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Then I suspect you just went with OEM replacement.

The reason I suggest the 95/96 update is that is seriously simplifies the heater hose routing and eliminates a ton of potential leak points!

got the pump now what do i need to get the gasket off inside the old pump and im guessing its the thermostat?

oh, that's right, aftermarket WPs don't come with a t-stat or gooseneck.

Get a new t-stat, it will have a rubber gasket. MAKE DAMNED SURE IT IS FOR AN LT1!!!!

The bolts are 10mm, IIRC, and the old t-stat will pop out with a screwdriver.

No leaks ony issue now is no coolant is getting run threw the hoses any ideas?

you didn't install the driveshaft for the waterpump.

been there, done that. You can shine a light behind the pump and see if there is a gap.

With the coupler?

if you see a gap behind the pump, where the drive shaft is, you missed the coupler. I wish I had a picture, but if you are getting no water flow, I don't know what else it could be.

Well I pulled the pump back off and made sure it was connected and it was and is the car still running hot do I need to bleed the lines?

yes. there is a bleed screw on top of the goose neck.

start the car with the rad cap off. Make sure you have filled the surge tank with coolant.

then run it. much of the bubbles will work out thought the surg tank. You can watch flow through. As it gets hot, then top it and cap it.

theres a ton of air in it so im guessing leave the screw out until antifreeze squirts solid all im getting now is air

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Let the air out until you get antifreeze, just be careful not to let antifreeze spray all over the engine compartment.

A 92 has 2 air bleeders, the other one is on the throttle body.
The screws do not need to come out only need to be opened a turn and a half.

When you put the coolant in for the first time (cold), open both bleeders and watch for the coolant to come out, Shut both bleeders lightly, top off the surge tank, run the motor until the T-stat opens (check by holding on to the hose, about 190-195) then crack both bleeders until the air stops.

A rag stuffed under both bleeders will keep the mess down.

that 2nd bleeder did it its maintaining a stable temp now thanks alot im sure ill be living here for the next few years i plan on getting a c6 once i get the means haha

oh, yea... forgot about that one. I by passed the throttle body YEARS ago... less leak points.