I decided to cut the crap and get this 1992 LT1 motor to a professional. Work pressure means I simply dont have the time to spend rebuilding it before the summer, plus I want to replace the rods while in here which means a professional balance job.

So.. at the moment the engine consists of just the block and rotating assembly; heads are off and all accessories are off or disconnected.

I'm looking for the easiest way to pull the engine, but I also need to factor in that when I put the engine back into the car the heads and intake will likely be back on. I have access to a cherry picker and engine stand. For example, can I just unbolt the tranny (its a ZF6) and lift the block out?

The FSM seems surprisingly vague on the topic - so does anyone have some general guidance?

Thanks!

yes basically that is what you do. Support the trans so that it doesn't fall when you get the motor loose from it. make sure all your connections are removed so you don't damage any wiring.

Remove the transmission.

Then remove the bell housing.

Then remove the engine. The clutch can come off after you get the engine out. With the accessories all off, it will work.

With the hood on, there just isn't the room to pull with trans installed, and the trans won't separate from the engine easily.

This is the best route... expect about 90 minutes, less if you have ever dropped the tranny.

Let me know if you need some help.

I just pulled mine back in November by myself. It can be done single handed, so don't worry about that. I removed the transmission first ( I have an Automatic) supported the motor and then pulled the motor with heads/intake and headers all in tact. You will need to use a chain and a leveler to keep the motor balanced as you raise it out. Be careful of any of the oil pressure sensors if they are still on the back of the motor. I broke one of mine off. Leave the motor mounts attached to the block, just remove the bolts from the cross members below. The motor will lift right out if all the accessories are removed and free.

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How long to put it back together?

I never pull the trans out to pull the engine. Just loosen the two C beam bolts at the rear of the trans. Seperate the trans from the bellhousing, and use a floor jack under the trans to jack it up as high as you can. You want to be careful not to over do it. But you can't go too far, the bellhousing will hit the tunnel. Undo the hood prop, and you can get the hood to open farther. Then you can use something like a broom handle to keep the hood open. Then you can pull the engine out the side. I also pull the plastic cover on the wiper motor off, they can get easily broken pulling the engine. But with a ZF6, you have to seperate it between the trans and bellhousing, not the engine and bellhousing. And keep the floorjack under the trans to support the trans when the engine is out. And make sure the front of the trans is as high as it can go during the R&R, that will give you a good angle getting the engine in and out. Then you can remove the bellhousing and clutch when the engine is out.

My mechanic pulled mine forward and out with the hood off.
Didn't look like he did anything with the C-beam or drive shaft.

383 goes in as soon as the freakin throwout bearing gets there - arrgghhh (its a long story)

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agree

Thats the way I did it

A Happy Hooker will help. You can buy it fro TPIS.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Rebuild/LT4Rebuild88.jpg[/IMG]

I got a question. Few of you say that you did not remove the tranny. On a manual tranny, how did you get the spline back in with the tranny + C-beam on place?

I'll let you know when I help the mechanic put mine in.
Remember - my hood is off the car.

I got a question. Few of you say that you did not remove the tranny. On a manual tranny, how did you get the spline back in with the tranny + C-beam on place?[/quote]

Just get everything aligned, and push it in to the trans. Make sure it in goes evenly. If you rotate the engine while pushing it in, sometimes that can help. It is easier with two people usually, but I have done most of the engine installs I have done by myself. Sometimes they go right in, other times you end up fighting them.