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istter1 Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Bakersfield Ca
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How do you get it out clogged?? lower control arm ball joint


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Posted on: 2012/5/22 1:46
Edited by istter1 on 2012/5/22 2:04:10
Edited by istter1 on 2012/5/22 2:10:43
Edited by istter1 on 2012/5/22 2:11:48
Edited by istter1 on 2012/5/22 2:14:10
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1Fast04Vert Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Unscrew it.
Posted on: 2012/5/22 2:07
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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You just want to remove it? Like Andy said, it just screws in. Use a pair of pliers.
Posted on: 2012/5/22 2:10
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Turned that sucker for 10 minutes just spinns
Any ideas not expensive. It is bone dry.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/part ... itemIdentifier=23678_0_0_
Posted on: 2012/5/22 2:15
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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You could try holding the top of the ball joint in that slot with a screwdriver. But I'm guessing if it's that dry and just spinning your ball joints are shot. Don't get duralast, get moog. I've also had good luck with raybestos professional on by BIL's F150.

Matthew
Posted on: 2012/5/22 2:27
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
You could try holding the top of the ball joint in that slot with a screwdriver. But I'm guessing if it's that dry and just spinning your ball joints are shot. Don't get duralast, get moog. I've also had good luck with raybestos professional on by BIL's F150.

Matthew


I figured something may be wrong I was looking at Moog.Don't care if they cost more want them to last.
Spotted this problem while greasing up Caliper pins. bone dry also lol

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/det ... ball+joint+%26+components
Posted on: 2012/5/22 2:33
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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I'll warn you the ball joint replacement on the c4 is a lengthy, involved process. Just so you're prepared.

Also, order from rockauto and use the discount code.
Posted on: 2012/5/22 2:42
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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I thought it would be a pain in the ass. Just another learning experiance on a different vehicle is the right way to look at it. LOL


Forgot where was code listed again

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
$68 without code


lot cheaper then Orilies low $111

Talk about being stupid

here it is and almost time fore a new one. 5% is better then nothing

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... p?topic_id=16707&forum=61
Posted on: 2012/5/22 2:52
Edited by istter1 on 2012/5/22 3:10:13
Edited by istter1 on 2012/5/22 3:15:21
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flyboy Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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I've had some clogged zerk fittings open up after heating them with a propane torch.
Posted on: 2012/5/22 3:21
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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I used to do that on farm equipment. May give it a cautious try. I tried using sodering iorn not much heat.

Found my propane torch in garage will try tomorrow.

Before that I will clean up that area and see if there is an inseration point to stop the zirk from spinning and remove it. Screw driver ice pick ??

Posted on: 2012/5/22 3:24
Edited by istter1 on 2012/5/22 3:52:09
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RickAnthony Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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It looks like the grease fitting has sunk in. This usually is a sign that the joint is worn, If you haven't take the load off the joint by placing a stand under the lower control arm, then check for play grab the wheel/tire at the top and bottom. Sometimes they will feel tight but if you lift up or give them some effort you'll feel them move.. greasing a worn joint will make it feel tighter but it's pointless if it's worn and has play it needs to be replaced..

I also agree Moog is at the top of my list, AcDelco and Raybestos are also good choices.
Posted on: 2012/5/22 4:34
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

RickAnthony wrote:
It looks like the grease fitting has sunk in. This usually is a sign that the joint is worn, If you haven't take the load off the joint by placing a stand under the lower control arm, then check for play grab the wheel/tire at the top and bottom. Sometimes they will feel tight but if you lift up or give them some effort you'll feel them move.. greasing a worn joint will make it feel tighter but it's pointless if it's worn and has play it needs to be replaced..

I also agree Moog is at the top of my list, AcDelco and Raybestos are also good choices.


Good advice Rick thanks. My son will be over after work he has the good eyes and we will check it out together.

More then likely we will be replacing that part . The price from Rockauto looks good. We will look at other parts to see what elese is shaking, I have a week or so coming before I start teaching summer school after the holiday.
Posted on: 2012/5/22 5:38
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Steve - if the one is bad, chances are they are all bad. Figure tie rod ends, too. Expect to pay in the $400+ range for the complete change.
Posted on: 2012/5/22 11:51
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Steve - if the one is bad, chances are they are all bad. Figure tie rod ends, too. Expect to pay in the $400+ range for the complete change.


I am aware that when I bought the 87 making it safe and spending bucks to fix it was going to take time.

Everything I have put in to my 87 has been worth it. I love working on her. You gotta treat them like a high price girlfriend. lol
Posted on: 2012/5/22 12:26
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Learned something new today grease on this type of balljoint will only flow eaisly when the zirk is in alignment with the slot. Still don't know how to remove it.

I took the vett to a local alignment shop they said ball and tie road ends were in decent shape. They aligned it for me last year.

Learn something new every day.

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jpg  lower zirk.jpg (286.54 KB)
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Posted on: 2012/5/23 1:58
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Good tip. I've never heard that before. I don't understand why, though, since it's just a hole on the other end?
Posted on: 2012/5/23 2:29
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BillH Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Good tip. I've never heard that before. I don't understand why, though, since it's just a hole on the other end?


Yea, doesn't make sense.
Posted on: 2012/5/23 3:08
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Good tip. I've never heard that before. I don't understand why, though, since it's just a hole on the other end?


Yea, doesn't make sense.


I would guess someone that won't work on your car if nothing is wrong is honest or has been busted by Ca DMV. I hope he is just honest. He didn't charge a anything. Greased the zirk and all. Lol

I have never seen a slot like that before. I was looking forward to replacing that stuff the week before summer school starts.

Had all the parts I would need from Rock auto written down so I could order them.
Posted on: 2012/5/23 3:52
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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I wonder if it was screwed in too far and making contact with something and if he backed it out it was free to flow. Still strange.
Posted on: 2012/5/23 12:09
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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All I know for sure is he fixed it. I didn't get to watch him work. I do know that their hi pressure grease gun works better then my harbor freight.He was a talker.

When I got it home I used my grease gun on it and it worked fine.
Posted on: 2012/5/23 12:18
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BillH Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
I wonder if it was screwed in too far and making contact with something and if he backed it out it was free to flow. Still strange.


They won't go in that far and the zerk's pipe thread so it can't be screwed in that tight.

And, the groove - the greese groove is in the bearing (housing) not the ball.

"I do know that their hi pressure grease gun works better then my harbor freight"
This wouldn't supprise me, may be correct.

Posted on: 2012/5/23 14:22
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
I wonder if it was screwed in too far and making contact with something and if he backed it out it was free to flow. Still strange.


They won't go in that far and the zerk's pipe thread so it can't be screwed in that tight.

And, the groove - the greese groove is in the bearing (housing) not the ball.

"I do know that their hi pressure grease gun works better then my harbor freight"
This wouldn't supprise me, may be correct.



When we had the thread on grease guns what was the consenses on the best quality?
Posted on: 2012/5/23 18:29
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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If he used a good one it probably freed up the gunk which then allowed your cheap one to work.

I bought a lincoln, very happy with it so far.

Matthew
Posted on: 2012/5/23 23:09
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
If he used a good one it probably freed up the gunk which then allowed your cheap one to work.

I bought a lincoln, very happy with it so far.

Matthew





Cheap one



LOL


Posted on: 2012/5/23 23:37
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

istter1 wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
If he used a good one it probably freed up the gunk which then allowed your cheap one to work.

I bought a lincoln, very happy with it so far.

Matthew





Cheap one



LOL




I bought an autozone POS (oem brand?) and another cheap one before I got smart. Those both broke or just wouldn't work. I think I spent $15-20 for each cheap one and about $35 for the good one. Do the math there....
Posted on: 2012/5/24 3:05
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

istter1 wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
If he used a good one it probably freed up the gunk which then allowed your cheap one to work.

I bought a lincoln, very happy with it so far.

Matthew





Cheap one



LOL




I bought an autozone POS (oem brand?) and another cheap one before I got smart. Those both broke or just wouldn't work. I think I spent $15-20 for each cheap one and about $35 for the good one. Do the math there....


I agree you get what you pay for.
Posted on: 2012/5/24 3:09
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

istter1 wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

istter1 wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
If he used a good one it probably freed up the gunk which then allowed your cheap one to work.

I bought a lincoln, very happy with it so far.

Matthew





Cheap one



LOL




I bought an autozone POS (oem brand?) and another cheap one before I got smart. Those both broke or just wouldn't work. I think I spent $15-20 for each cheap one and about $35 for the good one. Do the math there....


I agree you get what you pay for.


Which model lincoln

there are a lot of models lol

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=l ... grease+gun&_ipg=100&rt=nc
Posted on: 2012/5/25 0:00
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BillH Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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I think Matt got this one.

It's good because, if you have a zerk that tha hose keeps popping of of, this gun is one handed because og the pistol grip.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-1133- ... ain_0&hash=item484434f4c7
Posted on: 2012/5/25 0:14
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Posted on: 2012/5/25 0:20
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Matatk Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Same one as Bill posted. So I guess it was a couple bucks cheaper than $35, maybe $29 shipped or along those lines.
Posted on: 2012/5/25 0:22
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bogus Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Ball joints... gotta be getting close for mine again...

Same with the front wheel bearings.

I do need tie rod ends this time around, tho. those have been on for 182k miles... so, time to stop flirting with disaster.

Good job on the ball joint, Steve. I would replace all four, tho. If they were that dry, I am shocked they didn't break apart on you.
Posted on: 2012/5/25 1:02
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istter1 Re: Lower ball joint zirk removal
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
Ball joints... gotta be getting close for mine again...

Same with the front wheel bearings.

I do need tie rod ends this time around, tho. those have been on for 182k miles... so, time to stop flirting with disaster.

Good job on the ball joint, Steve. I would replace all four, tho. If they were that dry, I am shocked they didn't break apart on you.


I had planned on picking up those parts and if a problem occurs or I plan a trip I will install what ever is needed.

Like we all say it 25+ years old. Parts right now are cheaper and these can sit on the shelf for a while without much damage.
Posted on: 2012/5/25 3:30
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